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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/22/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Maybe this will help out a little... These are ones I have tested and found the fit acceptable.
  2. 3 points
    If you have a blank body and a fully assembled body with all hardware attached, and a gram scale, then it is possible to calculate the weight of micro-balloons required to add to the resin mix in order to achieve neutral density. a gram scale with 0.01g increment would be nice, but 0.1g would definitely get you close. The solution is complicated and so I have written a spreadsheet to make it simple. You will need to read up the post on Archimedes dunk test but it is really not difficult, as others who have tried it will tell you. If you or anyone would like to try the spreadsheet then PM me your email address and I will send it. Dave
  3. 3 points
    http://www.lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Screw-Eyes/Stainless-Screw-Eyes.html 1/2 inch lenght probably the common length used for bass cranks. A properly glued line/hook tie will hold just as well as a screw eye. You can also make your own twist eyes if you want also. That takes away the adhesion issue as you now are anchoring the tie into the glue. So glue strength one variable and then the other is wood/glue bond strength. The epoxies and super glues typically used are stronger than the wood so your crank will give out first.
  4. 3 points
    Most guys who use Iwata brushes really like them. To me, the right brush is determined by the tip size you need. Iwatas can be had in truly tiny tip sizes but which size do you need? A .2 mm tip HP can paint very fine lines if your skill and control is up to the task and if you are shooting properly thinned paint. But it isn’t ideal for thicker pearls and flakes. Maybe you can use your Badger 150 for that and a small tip Iwata for finer work. If you want to stick with one brush for everything, an Iwata Revolution BR (.3 mm) or Eclipse (.35 mm) will do it all. One thing you will notice: the smaller the tip size, the more expensive the airbrush and the more costly the repair parts if needed. And the smaller the tip, the more exactly the brush needs to be fitted to use it, so be extra careful with those fine tipped brushes.
  5. 3 points
    Or you could be like me. Add hardener, then find out it's too hard, then add softener, then too soft, repeat......
  6. 3 points
    Above is all good info and let me add my 2ct worth with some colors such as chartreuse or florescence you need to cook the plastic with the colorant added to cold plastic or some color tend to chaulk and not be as vivid as it should be. Me personally I use a thermometer for gauging the temp it guarantees my consistency .With that said you can judge it by looks with time under your belt but , it is best practice to use a thermometer . You can get close by judging but you don’t want to find out the hard way you were 10 degrees under target temp and your baits start doing weird things and you waste your hard earned money and time on baits that end up in the trash . Also welcome to the fold ! There’s a lot of good info here and it will save you a lot of foible in the long run. tight lines!
  7. 3 points
    I use a paper clip bent straight with a small kink to keep the weight from sliding off,then bend the top in a hook shape to hang in my toaster oven. I prep a bunch with the clips, hold them by the top hook,then heat and dip in my powder paint and hang in oven. Have 100% success with no issues. I do the same process with all wire through lead baits. Paper clips are about $2 a box and I use them for multiple shop tasks including cleaning out hook eyes prior to baking.
  8. 2 points
    I have done a lot of work on ballast calculators in the past. I have never offered them up for use by TU members because I considered them complicated and clumsy. This one however, I consider to be very slick and versatile. You can enter data from a first prototype and it will calculate how much ballast you need to add or subtract to achieve the buoyancy that you desire, be it slow sink, neutral or float. Boxes 1 and 2 are merely to collect data on the body material in order to obtain the material density. Boxes 3 and 4 are measured from a completed lure with hardware, hooks and topcoat. Box 5 is your desired buoyancy, 100% = neutral buoyancy. Box 6 is the density of the ballast. This can be changed if not using lead. The calculation takes into account the body material removed or added to make room for the ballast. PM your email to me if you would like to try this spreadsheet. Dave
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    Urethane will hold up just fine. It does kind of depend on the type urethane your using but get that debate started and you will be deployed before it's over. Your not married to the bait. Clearcoat it and enjoy! Safe travels and cone home safe from deployment. From one veteran to another thank you for your service!
  11. 2 points
    .Empty .22 short cartridge with 3-#9 TSS Tungston shot. Pull the end cap out a #9 TSS shot shell to get the shot. Regards, Blades
  12. 2 points
    I use copper fittings for plumbing to make a chamber.
  13. 2 points
    We all use different top coats. I like D2T so about an hour is more than enough. If you have a basic workshop, it is very easy to set up a simple turner. Do some reading, buy a slow motor and get stuck in. It is strangely rewarding to see your work turning Dave
  14. 2 points
    There we go someone smarter then me has arrived
  15. 2 points
    I pour pure resin layer for the belly and then a second layer balloon/resin mix. I don’t use any lead but instead just increase the size of the pure resin layer vs balloon/resin layer till I get the my bait to sit where I want in the water column. Note you results and you can repeat all future baits
  16. 2 points
    Personally I use the same resin micro balloon ratio(would have to check my notes) I use for my floaters and just increase my ballast pure resin layer till I get what I am looking for way too many factors with hook/hardware and lure shape to give you a ratio that would work without trial and error I don’t doubt the knowledge here and there are those with way more experience then me but you might be stuck experimenting
  17. 2 points
    Salt will make them opaque. Use any of that?
  18. 2 points
    That’s from not mixing your plastic before you took some out. Mix it well before you do anything else. And always get into a habit of it. All plastic settles some slow some fast.
  19. 2 points
    So does the time differ with a different 8oz cup. Doing this even once in awhile should give you a time that is accurate enough to not have to fuss with it. Not like I never heat small amounts. But a good starting point if I was going to heat 2 cups would be half the time of a 4 cup. Then adjust from there slightly.
  20. 2 points
    You may want to take you design and idea to your local college and talk to some engineers. You may be pleasantly surprised by what they come up with and also how cost efficient it will be.
  21. 2 points
    Keep several things in mind. First i would not build anything smaller then 1.5 pound capacity. Second, the bigger the tubes, passages etc, the longer it will take to heat, and your plastic will just core right thru the center and reduce your capacity dramatically. Anything with square corners is gonna catch glitter etc. Yes I mean don't use any carrier, sandwich the tubes in some aluminum, and heat the aluminum block. Thats about all i am willing to share.
  22. 2 points
    Well explained. But as you said if you mix(stir) while checking temp not much difference. Long time ago I used a probe to stir with and checked it with an infrared and it was the pretty much the same. But my point on the laminate temps, it doesn’t matter what you use as long as it is within 10 deg.
  23. 2 points
    I make bass baits and use soft temper stainless .041” diameter wire from McMaster-Carr online. Soft temper wire is malleable enough that you can bend it accurately by hand without a dedicated wire bending tool but plenty strong enough for bass baits. Bend the wire over a nail or drill bit sized for the eye you want and then twist the ends together with vise grips to form a shaft of whatever length you need. I like the ability to cook up screw eyes customized to any bait building purpose.
  24. 2 points
    The big box stores sell small sheets of 0.093 inch thick lexan (8" x 10") for under $6. It is a bit thinner than 1/8, but it's cheap. https://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-10-in-x-8-in-Polycarbonate-Sheet-31-GE-XL-1/202090134 https://www.lowes.com/pd/LEXAN-Clear-Polycarbonate-Sheet/3143465 0.093" may be thick enough for a 6" bait. If the lip will be long, like a deep diving lip, or the lure would be a trolling lure, I would go with 1/8 as the lip will be under extra stress. Pike and lakers can put a lot of stress on a lip with head shakes which would also make me lean to 1/8 thick. I think the weight of the bait is also important as that will determine the impact with the water on casts. If the baits weighs close to 2 ounces or is over 2 ounces, I would definitely go with 1/8th (0.125) lexan which I get from an Ebay supplier that has a bunch of different size sheets in a bunch of thicknesses. A 11.8" by 11.8" sheet of 1/8 thick is $9. https://www.ebay.com/str/sibeautomation https://www.ebay.com/itm/POLYCARBONATE-LEXAN-CLEAR-PLASTIC-SHEET-1-8-VACUUM-FORMING-YOU-PICK-SIZE/281337195022?hash=item418100ea0e:m:mOMkSGJFAGWF0bTPygum3jQ Baits over 4 ounces, I would consider using 3/16th inch . Baits of that size have a jarring impact when they land. I usually cross-pin those thicker lips with a piece of stainless shaft wire or a piece of a small nail. I made a jointed wake rat with a 5" inch body and 4" piece of a zoom trick worm for a tail. It weighed just over 2 oz. The 0.093 thick lip cracked on a cast when the lure hit the water. I make mostly bass and pike lures. I use 1/8 thick lexan on lures 1.75 ounces to 4 ounces. I have yet to break a 1/8 thick lip.
  25. 2 points
    The answer is 96Lbs. If you double the stretch then you halve the load: 0.5 = 96Lbs 1.0 = 48Lbs 2.0 = 24Lbs Find a way to measure that momentary stretch and an accurate figure can be calculated. I can send anyone a simple spreadsheet were you can enter your 3 numbers and get the answer. Just pm me your email and I will send. Dave
  26. 2 points
    Spikeit makes one called 40d. It is the hardest I have used. It is pvc too.
  27. 2 points
    I used quite a bit of MF, but have recently switched to baitplastics (polysol). Everybody has one or two they prefer, you just need to try them and find what works for what you do.
  28. 2 points
    If you are concerned about lead seepage down a hook shank, well some times that is a good thing. Because, being a smaller hook, this will let air escape when your cavity fills with lead and not giving you any bad pours from trapped air. I usually just cut off the lead overflow down the hook shank with a pair of dykes. If you want to fill it use high temp silicone (it's red). Here are the steps. 1. Fill the cavity you need on 1/2 of the mold with High temp silicone. 2. Smooth over, so it's flat with the mold half. 3. Put the hook where you want it and press it in place. 4. The hook will displace excess silicon, so now remove excess silicon around hook shank. Make sure you hold the hook in place so it doesn't move. 5. Let thoroughly dry(cure) 6. Next day, slowly take hook out of silicone mold (you may have to slice it out with a razor). Be careful not to pull the silicone out. 7. Once you have the hook out, take a single edge razor blade and shave off (clean) all of the excess silicone on the mold half so it will close tight. 8. Do the same thing on the other mold half so both halve will center the hook in the mold cavity. If you want a permanent fix, you can use JB Weld instead of silicone .
  29. 2 points
    I'm pretty sure one of the companies who makes and sells injectors has a setup to use two different diameter injectors. Often I'll partially hand pour a mold, close it, and then single color inject it to get the affect I want. I do buzz frogs that way. In fact I go further in some cases. I keep a few frogs in my box with black spots on a white belly. I make a few dots of black with a rod, pour some white over it, close the mold and shoot the back in black.
  30. 2 points
    I just switched from Wicked to Createx Illustration paint. It goes through airbrush without thinning and dries quickly. The colors are amazing. I painted this yesterday and dipped in KBS after only an hour drying time. This is all illustration colors on this lure. Even base coat.
  31. 2 points
    You’d have to decide if you are talking about green chartreuse or yellow chartreuse. Technically there’s not just a “chartreuse” as a color, as both are named after the respective French Liquer. But in reality in fishing people seem to call either type “chartreuse”. For paint though I would choose a bright, cool yellow, such as lemon yellow and add a little bright green or bright greenish blue. When you still have yellow but it appears to you as a greenish yellow, to me that is yellow chartreuse. If you keep adding a little more so it appears to be halfway between bright yellow and bright green, that’s what I think of of as green chartreuse.
  32. 2 points
    Yeah Dave, that's 5 times normal speed , but an admirable goal none the less . I went down this road too, but I was probably aiming for something in the 80-100 RPM range , I was trying to dampen the 'bounce' with mini oil over air shock absorbers - didn't work, too complicated!! Then magnets sounded quite plausible, but never went there ??--I settled on 60 rpm and 2 cutting blades, a leader and finisher, still a work in progress---I also found lead angles make a hell of difference. Using reasonably hard Mahogany & not Balsa tests speed and feed. Pete
  33. 2 points
    Just buy medium, which is a good all around plastic, and add softener.
  34. 2 points
    I can’t help with the mold issue but have been successful by posting a pic in the gallery and then hyper linking it to your post from the gallery. The forum is much more megapixel restrictive as opposed to gallery.
  35. 2 points
    The top pick is clear coated with sb clear . No technically you don’t have to clear with sb clear and it holds up ok however I do give it a coat of clear to make it hold up better . The bottom pic are dipped in plastisol . When i mix powders in with sb clear I don’t clear over it . It holds up fine. Another side note:-) you can also add Color for plastisol to sb clear to get colors sb does not make ( see second pic) those are colors I made. What I generally do when I dip baits is get the plastic to about 340 then dip . The plastic is about as thin as it will get. I also agree I don’t like super thick baits but sometimes the fish like it! :-)
  36. 2 points
    Probably not going to be a bid deal with a quart of plastic, but as you get into larger jugs (and trust me.....you will!,) also make sure the plastic is mixed very well because depending on the brand, it will settle and you'll end up with a bunch of soft, sticky baits.
  37. 2 points
    I’ve had great success with the lureworks sb coat yes it is solvent based and it does smell but it’s no worst than the cooking plastic imho. Paint and hit with a sb clear coat and no need to dip. On a side note you can also do a lot of cool looking effect with sb clear coat and the pearl powders for making soft plastics .
  38. 2 points
    I usually just start with some fluorescent yellow, and slowly add drops of fluorescent green till I get the color that I'm looking for. I don't have a formula for it exactly. I'm curious to see if some else does as well.
  39. 2 points
    As you heat it up it will become clear and get pretty thick then it will thin out again. I like to cook it a minute at a time and take it out and stir it. When it gets pretty thin I add color and glitter and stir it up well before I shoot or pour. You really should read the sticky "Don'ts for newbies".
  40. 2 points
    Here’s my latest jig Build. Robster Craw I’d love to know what everyone thinks.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    If they're the essential series molds they won't have a shiny finish. Do a search on painting them with engine paint to get a shiny finish, but in reality the fish don't care.
  43. 1 point
    Yes, the problem with acrylic paint is that water will cause it to swell and it will push off an epoxy topcoat. The boat other popular paint for crankbaits is lacquer, which is solvent based and doesn’t have this problem.
  44. 1 point
    G'day guys, My wife insisted that I'd use our old furniture for lure building (I know, she's a keeper) so that gave me the opportunity to make a new video and build me a chunky topwater for bass. Enjoy the video, cheers!
  45. 1 point
    If you want to use a bent tube like so, sandwich in between the plates. Heat the plates not the tube.
  46. 1 point
    My first qt I thinned 10% and the next 15%... The next few cans I didn't thin. It seemed that it was thinner already... But if I start getting any bubbles in heavy areas, I thin some.
  47. 1 point
    just a quick update about my BTS mold. Got a shipping notification Thursday, 16 business days depending on how much got done around Easter. So mine was at the low end of the 14-26 business days, excited to get the mold and shoot a few.
  48. 1 point
    MF makes a non-bleed fluorescent pink you could try. I haven't used it enough to state that it categorically won't bleed, but you may have better luck with it.
  49. 1 point
    So far I'm pleased with polysol. I accidentally had a batch get to almost 400 (on my ir thermometer) and it didn't yellow. I also like that is seems to have a dry finish, as opposed to MF whick seems to get a little oily after a while.
  50. 1 point
    Try Wolf manufacturing terminal tackle .
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