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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/27/2020 in Posts

  1. Gained about $2000 or more in sales last year just by giving away a handful of blemish lures at lakes that cost me maybe $100 in materials. It’s even better when the father of the kid calls me to buy some lures because his kid out fished him that day. Nothing sells lures better then fisherman seeing them catch fish I tell every kid that I give a lure to it’s their lure and Dad is not allowed to use it Think of it as investing in advertisement
    5 points
  2. @Skeeter what I know that is different about it is that it was designed to have no toxic fumes because several well known lure makers had died of cancer and Joe, the guy that developed it, did so as a response to that. As far as anything about the product that makes it more suited to lure making I am not sure. It does work like a charm though. First time using it and I got the best, nearly flawless topcoat I’ve ever gotten:
    5 points
  3. JD - The spherical domain enclosed by the tall man's spell of 4πr³/3 is an intriguing and fascinating subject. It is the simplest shape and yet the most difficult to carve. I have actually experimented with spherically derived shapes and the resulting actions are interesting. If you pull a sphere through water you get a pure spiral action. I do most of my cranial development work while sleeping, so you could say that I work in an alternative universe Dave
    4 points
  4. You are correct and many would find making baits is a losing endeavor if they put any dollar value on their time. Building cranks one off is about the least efficient way to make cranks. Multiples pay off as less time is wasted setting up tools, measurements, etc.. Some aspects are rather quick so may just knock out a bunch of blanks for future use. May take 30 minutes and drill all the hook hanger and belly weights, etc.. (jig holds the blank in position on drill press). I will just keep blanks in plastic shoe boxes or shallow tool box trays in different stages. If ti
    4 points
  5. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; cha
    4 points
  6. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
    4 points
  7. If those are your first baits man you are well on your way! They look great. In my day job I am a network engineer so I can appreciate the fact that you used the two sides from an old computer case for your painting booth. That's awesome man:) You have for sure found yourself in the land of bait makers here. Everyone here is extremely helpful and listening to their advice will only make you better at this amazing hobby. There have been so many good tips provided here and I'd like to give you a couple as well. Just a couple of tips to make things easier for you I guess. I used to have HP
    4 points
  8. Rubbish, the dolphin showed no interest in the lure what so ever! Just kidding, great work, looks amazing Dave
    4 points
  9. Yea, if it isn't right I for sure don't sell it. They go into my tackle box, or a close friend to use and test. If it has my name on it and I sell it, I want it to have good finish. Otherwise, you will be selling all your lures for discount, or other potential customers will see a sub par product. I like the idea of giving them to kids, but yea as a musky lure maker that might be tough lol. Honestly, I don't make/paint tons of lures, so I will usually take the messed up lures, and start over with it. Put a different paint job on it, or experiment with it. I have a bunch of lures on my "
    3 points
  10. ... ... If anyone needs a tester* in northern Illinois you just let me know! *said tester is not a professional and has absolutely no social media presence outside a YouTube channel with 2 subscribers. Said tested is also has a very poor quality camera and cannot guarantee any good photographs of the successful use of your lure. Said tester has 4 sons who are very energetic and enthusiastic about fishing, but not particularly focused (especially the 2 month old).
    3 points
  11. I make 5 to 10 at a time and I make them out of resin I do very little wood other that the first one for testing. Although I like wood better some guys will only fish wood I make mostly musky baits. Wayne
    3 points
  12. Ya, I agree. I am NOT an artist. My painting proves it. But, the fish don't care one bit. LOL
    3 points
  13. JD_mudbug & Mark I agree, Iv'e been building handcrafted lures for quite a while and have had some great success with them, but the one that sticks out to me was a tournament buddy of mine asked me to build him a pair of shallow water crankbaits for a certain situation, I built 2 and painted them in a japaneese style or version of sexy shad. He fished them the weekend after picking them up and caught over 30 bass ( 1 day ) with those lures. So I'd have to say seeing someone else, especially a buddy fish your creation and have success would be my best. I've built this particular lure for ma
    3 points
  14. I also view crankbaits as expendable and I don’t have customers who expect (unreasonably) that they last forever. That doesn’t mean I want them to disintegrate an hour into a hot crankbait bite though. I undercoat with epoxy and topcoat with various stuff - MCU, UV resin, or epoxy. So my baits have 2 tough waterproof coatings. That’s enough for me. But all of us are “rolling their own” and if you want 10 layers of finish on your bait for some reason, well, no fault, no foul.
    3 points
  15. I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
    3 points
  16. Sealing? NO Base coating? normally yes to get a good paint job.
    3 points
  17. A quick video highlighting a few modifications to my 10" WEN 3962 bandsaw http://rvbprecision.com/machine-tools-welding/wen-3962-bandsaw-modifications-walk-around.html
    3 points
  18. Selling baits... Few ways to go with depending on your goals. Identify your goals and do what best suits those goals. High end quality baits aimed at getting $$$$$, knocking out baits quick and selling numbers for cheap, are you trying to just break even, make money, etc.. Finally I will say do a search about Federal Excise Tax and fishing lures....at least be aware of Form 720 Part II No. 41.
    3 points
  19. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
    3 points
  20. Why would you need to modify the mold? Do you want to use a different hook that might not fit? Are you wanting to change or add something? You only have to modify a mold if you want to use a hook that doesn't fit, or if you want to add a wire keeper or something else. I'll be honest, get a mold that you want that has all the elements you want without making changes. Don't worry about the hook brand, if you don't like a hook that the mold calls for there usually are alternatives and members here will let you know what fits. I say that because a lot of times a modified mold could get finicky and
    3 points
  21. Man.....what an INCREDIBLE thread! This is why I am here to stay. I want to learn and one cannot help but do so by watching you all converse about such topics. You have all proven time and time again to be very intelligent and deeply creative, each of you in your own right, thinkers and craftsmen. This is hands down the most helpful and knowledgable community on the Interwebs. I'd rather read threads like this than "Netflix and Chill" any day. Great stuff! I came into this hobby two years ago from a nearly zero woodworking background and because of everyone here I am making baits that I
    3 points
  22. I like double pin joints, this gives maximum freedom to the hinge as one joint has two pivots. Strength-wise, the load is distributed along the length of the pin, perpendicular to the pull direction, you would have to rip the lure in half to break it. There are so many joint solutions and I cannot say that any are particularly bad. Whether a joint will fail or not all comes down to your design; screw-eyes too short, area around pin to thin, inadequate sealing, etc. Hinges are all about free movement, even the slightest resistance to movement will cancel out the action. Rear facing V-
    3 points
  23. Amazing how efficiency picks up when using 18 molds.
    3 points
  24. Lots of good info and advice given here. It would take me a week to put my thoughts down on the subject in such a way that would be helpful. I have a tendency to talk in circles and am much better at building than explaining things. I don't have a physics degree or any knowledge other than what I've learned through many years of screwing up. My advice for any new builder is to try to duplicate an existing bait that is a known producer. Templates for different styles are out there if you look around online. My first builds were a Shad Rap profile that I was able to find this pattern for. B
    3 points
  25. I sold my lures at the Musky Show for 30 to 35.00 I also had a hard time selling on ebay for 5.00 so I just stopped and took a look at what and how I was doing my lures. Will come out with some new lures by early summer. Will have two types I will get rid of all my plastic lures which I purchased paint and sell and go back to 6" and bigger 9" to 12" out of wood which I enjoy and stay away from e-bay and find other means of selling maybe go back to my own web site not sure about face book. I also would like to do flea markets just to talk lure making with the guys. If this virus ever gets ove
    2 points
  26. Carving out of wood I could never do it because I am not efficient enough Molding and pouring is another story. Like others have said building in batches makes a difference. What I will do is pour blanks at random needed or not. Even when painting baits I paint extra in popular patterns. this makes it easier to provide a batch or sell a few baits because odds are I have a some complete or partially complete lures ready to go one thing I have also had to except is some designs are not cost effective to sell or involve too much effort to be worth while. You have to be realistic a
    2 points
  27. Dave says "nerdy". I say "sexy". @Vodkaman you are amongst nerd friends here:) The nerdier the better:)
    2 points
  28. Kid can mean teenager. I hand out lures according to the person fishing. Adults get them too I build mostly for pike and lake trout because I am in western Canada. As of last year some of my lures have found their way to Ontario for musky. I build baits between 4-1/2 to 8inch not big by musky standards but not little baits either not what most consider little kid lures Something to consider if you have designs that work well for other species besides musky don’t ignore that possible customer base either way the principal applies using blemished baits to expose your lures
    2 points
  29. Often to understand a function or concept you have to take the idea to extremes. I offer up a ball and dinner plate analogy. The spherical ball can be forced through the water with very little effort, but the flat plate requires a relatively HUGE effort to move through the water even though the diameters are the same. It is natural to think that water resistance is caused by the weight or force of the water trying to get out of the way of the object, the water pressing on the lip as it is pulled through the water. The actual truth is a most unnatural concept to grasp which is why
    2 points
  30. Lip function – to create the vortices that cause the lure’s waggle action. It is fact that a sharp edge causes a stronger vortex than a blunt edge. This would suggest that a thin lip would be better, BUT, the knife edge can be achieved with a chamfer. Bending – lip materials do bend. The bending is a function of material thickness, free length, width and the mechanical properties of the material. How much bending is acceptable? Is some bending desirable? Weight distribution – obviously the thicker the lip then the more the COG of the lure is affected. The thicker lip dra
    2 points
  31. The blending block has done a swirl for me when I did not want it. Use to have plenty of blems to prove it. With a little practice you can get great results.
    2 points
  32. When using a dual injector system with two colors it works great only because both colors are real close to the same temperature( within 10 deg). If one is hotter it will swirl and mix with the colder one. Believe me when you Get a two color system you will find it will work. I would suggest you get a Twinjector from Basstackle. It will be an investment that will pay dividends in the end for you. A life long tool that will make your life much better than putting a kit together and be miserable. I would not tell you this if it did not work.
    2 points
  33. Good plan. I liked 10 at a time. The advantage is that you become more skilled at each operation, with an appropriate improvement in time. This will sound 'nerdy' but you need to do a time and motion study on yourself. You will be amazed with the time that can be picked up with secondary movements like tool placement; by placing the wire cutters in the same place on the bench every time, then no time is lost searching for the tool. By placing the tool on the bench at a certain angle, the tool can be picked up and ready for use without the need for a juggling act. If you record the re
    2 points
  34. Good comments. Keep searching for that bit extra that will make your lure more desirable than the rest. I know, it is not easy chasing rainbows, but not impossible either. If you don't chase the rainbow then you are unlikely to stub your toe on the pot of gold Dave
    2 points
  35. I’ve been finishing baits for three years and have used both BSI and D2T. It has been surprising to me that I have rarely had any problems with bubbles, fish eyes or excessive cure times, particularly considering how many people do. Recently I have concluded that my lack of issues is because I live in Florida and don’t experience cold temperatures. From what I’ve noticed, there seem to be more epoxy issues in Northern areas. So I agree with LHL that temperature is very significant.
    2 points
  36. @JD_mudbug It's always tempting to compare... I just bought an airbrush the other day. When I went back and bought a hose the gal at the counter asked me what I paint. We talked a bit about making lures when she asked me if airbrushing is easy (I've not tried it yet). I told her, "well, the guys on YouTube make it look easy." I think accepting the process of learning through mistakes is critical! The booklet that came with the airbrush I got specifically says to be prepared to make lots of mistakes. It's all part of the journey. I've been very impressed with some of the work I've see
    2 points
  37. Lots of great advice here already! I like hearing that you want to make thru wire, as a musky lure maker I agree! As far a lips, i like lexan. Could probably use a coping saw to get close (or jig saw), they are cheap and can cut rounded edges. Then files/sander to finish the job. A belt sander with the small disc sander attached would be extremely helpful! I use mine a lot. Ideally in the future, a bandsaw for sure. Through wire methods all have their pros and cons. Cutting the lure right in half can make the final product more seamless, as you can dremel or use a knife to hi
    2 points
  38. For awhile I was finishing rapid prototypes and using them to make silicone molds... and rapid prototypes have build lines all through it - so required alot of sanding. If you really want to super smooth - you'll probably need to use a auto primer (spray can is fine) and wet sand down in steps from 240 to a 1000 grit - even finer if your picky. Even at 600 grit you'll still see lines picked up with a silicone mold - silicone is unforgiving and is usually formulated to pick up the fine details. I'd wax/buff the hell out the to part create a layer of protection between the part/paint and
    2 points
  39. +2 - I've been through a couple single injectors and still tinker with them to try and get them to work smoothly and mess with the endcaps to allow quick removal - was pretty much a waste of my time.... as my Basstackle injector is smooth and built very very well.... super fast to pop endcap off (SAFELY) and clean if i'm doing small batches in microwave. For the extra money you spend compared to a crappy EBAY injector it's totally worth it - this is a tool you use for EVERY bait you make... don't skimp. J.
    2 points
  40. My favorite metallic colors are: Wicked gold, Wicked silver, and Craftsmart metallic Titanium (if you can find it). But if you want true metallic shine, get some fingernail art foil in metallic silver and holographic silver. There are tutorials on this forum on how to do this. Metallic paints can be applied over a black or white base. The effects are quite different. A quick pass fine mist can also be sprayed over a completed paint job. It acts almost like glitter. Have fun
    2 points
  41. I personally don’t like the heavy .040 blades on inline spinners unless the lure is a big musky bucktail type lure (size 7 and up blades). The .040 blades are harder to get spinning at the start of a retrieve. The heavy blade is much easier to get spinning on a spinnerbait than an inline spinner. You need the extra thickness of a .040 blade for musky bucktails because they are far more likely to bend a .025 blade. The .025 blades are fine for bass inlines and easier to start on the retrieve. An inline will not get the same vibration as a spinnerbait. On a spinnerbait, a blade is at the
    2 points
  42. You could also try double hooks on the belly like a Mustad 7982 or 7825. Owner and Gamakatsu make a double hook too. It seems like they would cause very little if any rash. I have seen them in sizes up to 5/0. I don't think heavy musky rings like Wolverines or Rasco XH or XXH would slide out. But if it looks like they might, you could use a piece of heat shrink tube on the shank. I have not tried them yet on hard baits.
    2 points
  43. When I am airbrushing I keep a ice cream pail next to me with hot water with a little soap in it and when I change colors I just keep cleaning the brush till clear. End of day I just run some airbrush cleaner through it and done for the day. Just to check I at sometime I just take out the needle and wipe it clean if some paint on it. Stay ahead of the game and keep problems to a minimum. Wayne
    2 points
  44. We're talking about mostly 4, 6 or 8 ounce batches here but, i don't use hardner or softener. If i want a harder mix i just add hard to soft or medium & if i want it softer i just add soft to medium or hard. Doing it like this the only thing that changes is firmness because my colors, amount of glitter, highlights etc. stay exactly the same & so do the amount of plastic used in each shot. I use heat stabilizer on old remelts that i store in coffee cans. Working in small batches like i do makes it easy to tweak them any way i want & still be pretty consistent. Sometime
    2 points
  45. Update on learning curve. Cut the stainless rods a bit short so as not to interfere with the injection port. Made one a bit longer to see if that actually would happen. It doesn't. Actually makes a better bait. Will order more stainless rods, and cut them longer. also on my learning curve. Removing the stainless rods is a *%^$ if you forget to lube them. Note to self Remember to lube the rods.
    2 points
  46. Hook points will wear through D2T eventually. D2T is one of the hardest and thickest topcoats out there. The only real solution I have found is to minimize the hook points scraping against the the lure. I will sometimes use nail polish or thinned epoxy to fill in a hook rash groove. That only extends the longevity some. Best to do that before it gets through to the paint. I have been switching over to T-type trebles (Owner St-35, Decoy T trebles) for belly mounted hooks. Those type of hooks reduce hook rash. When you put the hook on, make sure the flat side is against the lure. You can be
    2 points
  47. I tried that, years ago, but my ex-wife got pissed.
    2 points
  48. There are no real claims on their "site" for a reason. Much of what one hears regarding the product are just guys making claims. Their site isn't really put together that well compared to most businesses/companies would put together. Guarantee if they had tested the product they would clearly have it listed on the site. Also will notice (may have overlooked it) that no SDS is on the site for the product. I think it is more likely a guy found a way to make some supplemental income and it is just a repackaged product with a markup. Perhaps something from Specialty Resin. https
    2 points
  49. Big Epp - We are here for those questions and concerns, this is the whole point of the TU site. Dave
    2 points
  50. Molds are really the limiting factor starting out in my opinion. Everything else is secondary and really won't increase production by any meaningful amount in my experiences.
    2 points
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