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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    NWBass, I'm coming into the conversation a little late, so I apologize for that (took a few days off for spring break with the kids!). I'm sorry you're having issue with the split rings you purchased from us. As many here have already suggested, there's definitely some technique to putting these together. I've built more than I can count, and I still semi-regularly end up with sprung split rings. A couple of suggestions that haven't already been covered: Consider using narrow opening split ring pliers. These are widely available online, including from us, many of our competitors, and from Amazon. The lower jaw on these pliers extends past the downward point of the upper jaw (think underbite), making it far more difficult to overextend your split rings. Basically, they limit how far you can open your split rings. I use these almost exclusively when building chatterbaits. When I'm building these, I use two pairs of split ring pliers (or, depending on what I have on hand, a pair of split ring pliers and a small pair of round nose pliers). The technique is difficult to describe, but, basically, I use the narrow opening split ring pliers to get the ring started on the blade, then, while using the narrow opening pliers to keep the split ring open, I'll use the other pair of pliers to rotate the split ring onto the blade. Not sure that makes sense, but I've found it far easier to maneuver/rotate the ring/blade this way without overextending the ring. Maybe I'm just losing dexterity as I age! If you like, PM me your order info (order number and/or email address) and I'll double check to make sure we sent you the right rings. It's possible another style of split ring slipped in there (stainless steel would be a nightmare on these). We'll do what we can to make things right. Thanks, and good fishing! Matt Barlow
  2. 3 points
    If I had a $1 for every time someone told me that a particular lure was the only consistent fish catcher.... Well lets just say I would have a Lear jet in my driveway.
  3. 3 points
    Judging is complete. Winners have been chosen! We will announce them on the 13th, just 2 days from now.
  4. 3 points
    When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  5. 3 points
    Only thing I have to add to this is those baits look great. Allen
  6. 3 points
    It's like the perfect husband. All my ex-wives said it doesn't exist, but they love it at first, till they found out about the handling issues. Hahaha
  7. 3 points
    I've probably said this a million times and like sallmouthaholic said " don't quit your day job". This isn't meant for me to get rich off of. I have a full time job for that. This is my way of relaxing, talk to a lot of fishermen and learn what the latest tactics are to improve my fish catching . The money I make from this, I would starve and be poor if this was my only source of income. This is a hobby and that's all it is to me. Some days you have a good days pouring and you think you made money, other days, you want to quit and forget about the whole process. Luckily, there are more good days than bad days. All said and done if I figure everything that it costs me to operate, I'm better off working at McDonalds. If they raise the pay to $15/ per hour, I'd definitely be better off.
  8. 3 points
    Yeah, I’d rather not see the Devcon-ETEX war start again. My take is that both work well. Maybe ETEX is a little more flexible in cold weather, at least many musky bait builders think so. I’ve tried both and for the bass baits I make, I prefer Devcon for several reasons. It goes on thicker so you need only one coat versus several for ETEX. It hardens faster so you need 45-60 minutes of rotation after application instead of several hours wth ETEX. It is less prone to develop fisheyes than ETEX. I don’t think the end product is any better than with ETEX but it’s a lot less hassle and faster to use in terms of the process. My gut feeling is that all SLOW cure epoxies, including glue epoxies like Devcon , decoupage epoxies like ETEX, or rod thread epoxies like Flexcoat produce topcoats that are very durable, glossy, and waterproof. I say choose one, learn the best application techniques for that one, and never look back.
  9. 2 points
    Congratulations to the winners of the 2019 Coolest Lure Contest! Below are the winners of this year's contest. I will update this post sometime tomorrow with links to each winner's lure photo. 2019 Coolest Lure Contest Winners Best Custom Painted Hardbait 1 st - Supreme Bluegill – @mdojet 2 nd - Custom Painted Wakebait - @Cliffs Lures 3 rd - 3D Gill - @Big Bass Man Best Homemade Hardbait 1 st - Hitchhiker 80 – @Badaboom 2 nd - Z Pike – @MazLures 3 rd – Curly Tail Hardbait – @madtownlures Best Wire Bait 1 st – ½ oz. Swingtail Spinnerbait – @Lunkerlunchbaits 2 nd – Custom 1/2oz.Bladed Jig – @smallmouthchaser 3 rd – Custom Frog Buzzbait - @carpslayer556 Best Soft Bait 1 st - 3.25" Power Finesse Craw - @zachary muhleman 2 nd – Kraken Knight.jpg - @Randall Koop 3 rd - 4" Goby – @foxbites Best Fly 1 st – Scorpion Fly – @Leonsebiatan 2 nd - Deer hair duckling - @Deer hair duckling 3 rd - Hand Tied Custom Streamer – @Bassmankam Best Custom Rod or Reel 1 st - Handmade 9’ 5wt fast action fly rod @DrakeFC 2 nd - Custom Fly Rod.jpg - @Brian7394 3 rd - Stand Up Rod Thread Wrap – @Javabones
  10. 2 points
    Just some word of advice, yes making , pouring your own baits can be rewarding and alot of fun. Saftey is so important. So don't forget to use common sense. Make sure your mentally all there. Prior to getting started.Take your time dont rush it! Take precautions! if inside or outside have plenty of ventilation use respirators, gloves, goggles. Protect your eyes there all you have. Don't ever pour your baits around animals or let young children help. Make sure your working on a very steady area or work space.Never work around flammable liquids, gasses or any materials that can ignite . Don't joke around As there can always be potential for an accident waiting to happen. Fumes and temp of heated plastic can be toxic, and can cause serious burns ,water or any moisture should not come in contact with hot plastic. Especially when pouring lead. Dont make a big mistake. Always protect yourself the time that you spent doing things in a safer way will save you from the hazards, accidents and problems that can happen as a result from being careless , and expensive medical bills, or from causing a fire as a result of not taking the time to think about what I should of done before not after.
  11. 2 points
    I get the same split rings and I will get one that has it happen maybe 1 in 15 or so. I normally don't have it happen on the blade, it is usually when I'm going onto the hook eye that it will happen. Now this is going to sound stupid but try it and see if it helps. I noticed this happens more when I get it started and then work it all the way around in which it takes 5 or 6 movements. If I get the split ring started and then take my pliers and hold the ring as far back as I can go and make 1 or 2 big rotations for the ring to go on it almost never gets sprung open. The same thing for the hook eye, it takes a bit to get it down but that really helped, it seemed the longer it takes to get it on the more apt it is to stay open. As for putting it on the hook eye, you will do better by cleaning the paint off the eye and I have a way to help with that. I sacrificed a spinnerbait hook to do this a long time ago and I still use the same hook to this day. I use a 5/0 hook that is too big to go all the way through the hook eye but still goes far enough in that it will help clear the eye. I put the point in as far as it will go and I work it back and forth until the paint falls off, it doesn't take that long.
  12. 2 points
    The blades you're referring to are they spinnerbait blades or blades used for a chatterbait type of blade? If they are the chatterbait type blades those are easy to put on. I have one solution for you. Open the split ring enough to get the blade hole started at the end of the split ring about an 1/8". Once you have it started, do not use the split ring pliers to keep opening the split ring. Use the pliers to maneuver the split ring around the blade. One other thing when putting on blades on split rings, it is easier to put the blades with the blade parallel to the ring and not perpendicular to the split ring. By doing it this way, you are not stretching the split ring throughout the whole travel of the blade you are trying to get on. Does this make sense?
  13. 2 points
    Outstanding! Thanks y'all! Glad to be here.
  14. 2 points
    Map gas is too hot, propane is much better for this. I don't think it is too much heat though, the issue is how you are putting the colors on, you have to think about how the powder is going to spray. For example, on a bait that I'm doing that say has a white belly with a red throat patch, pearl sides and a black back I will do the colors in a certain order. First the white belly, then the red throat patch and that is because I may get overspray onto the pearl. Next I do the pearl body and finally the black back, but for the back I won't spray directly on top but maybe 5 degrees off center, it is very little. I do that so I get a little overspray onto what I call the shoulders of the bait, this area is lighter in color to the back and gives a nice transition over to the lighter pearl color.
  15. 2 points
    Yeah, brain tumors and hurricanes will do that to you. You guys are unreal sometimes...
  16. 2 points
    I bought my wife a cricut for Christmas years ago and now use it more than her... lol... I make stick on stencils for my crawdad patterns. I just use shelf liner, cheap and works well. I have also cut some non-stick stencils out of acetate. The trickiest part is drawing the pattern and getting the sizing right. But once you get one you have it forever and it repeats the same any time you need them.
  17. 2 points
    This article offers up a hypothesis (unproven theory) of a triple point in fishing lure design that will result in the most erratic action usually associated with ‘hunting’, a zigzag motion, often observed in lures when retrieved at just the right speed. It is a complex and technical article, and as with a lot of my stuff; a difficult read. If you don’t understand any of it then ask questions, but don’t knock it, I am doing my best. Triple point is most commonly known in the field of metallurgy; a particular combination of variables such as temperature, pressure etc. that enables a metal to pass from a solid to a gas directly, totally skipping the liquid phase. The three forms; solid, liquid and gas all occur at the same point, hence triple point. I believe that there is a similar point in lure design. The variables that control this ‘triple point’ are the same variables that we adjust when designing any crank-bait lure; lip length, lip width, tow eye position, body shape, ballast location in ‘X’ direction (length), ballast location in ‘Z’ direction (depth). Buoyancy of body material and hardware location also play their respective parts as always. Also playing its part in the search for the ‘triple point’ is ‘resonant frequency’. Regular hunting – I published the theory of hunting 9th April 2017 ‘Hunting Cranks - Theory, Design and Build’. Here I outlined what is happening when a lure hunts and how to achieve this condition. You could refer to the point at which hunting occurs as a transition point between pitch (porpoising) and yaw (waggle). But this is not entirely true. It is simply the point when the swimming lip angle reaches/passes 90 degrees to the water flow, at which point the lure stops waggling and starts to porpoise. The transition is where waggle and porpoising are mixed together. This condition is easily achieved simply by making the lip too long and trimming back until the lure just starts to waggle. The transition is not a precise point. The position through this ‘transition’ that you trim the lip to, will determine the qualities of the hunt; slow wide hunt through to rapid shallow hunt. Back in 2007 when I first started working on the hunting project, I did stumble upon the triple point totally by accident. I can only describe the action as wild. Unfortunately the lure was butchered by me to make another adjustment, but I was unable to reproduce the action. At that time, I had not discovered what was actually causing the hunt, let alone the triple point. I had theories that turned out to be partially correct, namely the transition between pitch and yaw. After seeing the ‘wild’ action, I also speculated on the triple point, but was unable to figure it out for a build. Ironically, I had stumbled upon a lure with a slow ‘S’ motion rather than a waggle when experimenting with some weird designs. I didn’t figure out was going on, what was causing this lazy ‘S’ motion until yesterday. Actually not a transition like I suspected, but caused by resonant frequency. Resonant Frequency (RF) – this is what causes panels to vibrate on your vehicle when it travels at a certain speed, causing that irritating ‘buzz’ that you can never quite locate. RF is also what keeps architects awake at night. RF can cause buildings and bridges to collapse. One of the most famous incidents involving RF was the Tacoma bridge disaster. The frequency of the lure, the speed at which it waggles, is determined by the speed at which the alternating vortices form behind the lip, controlled by the width of the lip. A narrow lip produces faster alternating vortices, a wider lip produces slower vortices. The ability of the lure to roll is controlled by the ballast ‘Z’ location (height). To understand roll, think of a pendulum, a swinging weight on the end of a piece of string. The longer the piece of string, the slower the pendulum swings. The string can be shortened so that the roll period (back and forth time) is extremely fast. The ideal length of the piece of string is that which gives a pendulum period equal to that of the lip vortices. This ideal pendulum speed is called the resonant frequency of the lure, and will give the best waggle/roll combination. At resonant frequency the roll and the waggle enhance each other, and this causes the lure to ‘blow out’, so not ideal after all. As the length of the hypothetical string increases from the ideal length, the ability of the lure to roll is in conflict with the vortex speed, thus the lure roll is inhibited. There comes a point where the vortex period is 3X the roll period. At this point, the roll and the vortices are in line with each other again, and resonant frequency is once again achieved. But this time the roll period is 1/3rd the period of the RF ‘blow-out’ frequency. It is at this point that I believe the wild action occurs, when the period of the zigzag aligns exactly with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. My next step is to prototype for this ‘S’ motion. I must then combine this with the regular hunt geometry. This combination should give me the ‘wild’ action that I witnessed all those years ago. This combination of geometry I would refer to as the ‘Triple point Hunt’, a combination of the tuned pitch/yaw transition with the 1/3rd RF of the roll. And so, although Mark Poulson was correct when he said that he suspected ballast height may well be the trigger to cause an erratic hunt, the solution is actually to lower the ballast to find the 1/3rd RF, or even lower to find the 1/5th RF. However, this is not enough. The position in the pitch/roll transition must also be tuned to the 1/3rd RF. Once this balance has been achieved, the width of the zigzag will be enhanced by the 1/3rd RF roll, the roll will be enhanced by the vortex waggle, and the lure will really start to dance. My intention is to build a prototype with an adjustable ballast, to tune in to the 1/3rd RF roll, and find the best ‘S’ motion. I will then adjust the lip length to match the hunting zigzag period with the 1/3rd RF roll. This should result in the ‘wild’ action of the Triple Point Hunter. Once the wild hunt is found, a body can be designed to contain the ballast. This is probably going to result in a lot more prototype attempts and a rather weird looking body. Actually, when all the relevant periods are perfectly aligned, a wide, regular hunt should result, but if the periods are close and not perfectly aligned, then a wild, irregular motion should result. As with such a build, such precise alignment would be difficult, and so the wild action will be the most likely outcome. From what I remember of the ‘S’ swimming prototype, there was no visible waggle, just the pure ‘S’ motion. In theory, if the periods are perfectly tuned, there should be a visible waggle 3X faster than the ‘S’ motion. More possibilities will be available by tuning to different harmonics; The lip waggle is the first RF harmonic, the pitch/yaw could be tuned to the third RF harmonic, and the ‘S’ motion tuned to the 5th RF harmonic. This would produce a really weird swimming action, but first thing’s first, let’s not get too far ahead of ourselves. Thinking about it, what I saw all those years ago, may well have been this 1/3/5 harmonic triple point hunt. Dave
  18. 2 points
    This pic may help with showing how I do the line tie in the lip of a bait. No way the line tie is coming loose unless the lip comes out of the bait. That lip is a 1/2 inch deep into the nose of the bait. Hope this helps
  19. 2 points
    After cutting tubes with a blade block and a mallet for the last couple years. I talked to a buddy of mine who owns a machine shop and he hooked me up. Only thing I had to pay for out of pocket was the press and blade block.
  20. 2 points
    VodkaMan, this is my first post but i have been scouring the hardbait forums for quitesome time now and I greatly appreciate all the effort you put into the information you share with us all here! I have like so many others here grown very addicted to building and painting crankbait's and jerkbait's! Thanks to you and this forum I have been able to build some pretty successful lures and when I am experimenting with new ideas and can't quite figure something out I can reference these forums and usually always find the answer. Thanks again, Jesse
  21. 2 points
    shooting candys is all about the base.
  22. 2 points
    Before you buy from Amazon try Dick Blicks better price and buy enough with paint or double your order get free shipping. Wayne
  23. 2 points
    You can achieve this by using 2-3 coats of KBS and let fully cure.... Then lightly use a fine scotch brite pad to knock off the sheen.
  24. 2 points
    I use stainless steel cotter pins for the line tie in my deep divers but the lip is garolite not lexan. The cotter pins hold fine and never had a problem with the lip.
  25. 2 points
    That worked guys, I had to really lay on the gold to get it right.. thanks
  26. 2 points
    Today tried laminate style baits using aluminum foil. Turned out pretty good! Tried the green watermelon with chartruese and that didn't look as good, not enough contrast between the two (at least until I get some white to mix with chartruese as suggested) but black on chartruese and black on green watermelon turned out well enough.
  27. 2 points
    It goes way - way back man. I'm sorry I wish I could put words to it.
  28. 2 points
    Don't quit your day job!!
  29. 2 points
    Pete forgot to mention this but once your jigs turn grey, you will never get them to turn shiny again like they were freshly poured.
  30. 2 points
    You have to anneal the brass before working the shape. Google 'annealing brass', lots of good articles on the subject. The act of working the brass automatically hardens the brass, so you may have to anneal several times while working the shape. Here is a excerpt: ' The process of hardening and annealing brass is exactly the reverse of that used with steel. Brass is hardened when it is heated and allowed to cool slowly ; it is softened or annealed when heated and cooled suddenly. When annealing brass, care should be taken that it is evenly heated throughout and that it is evenly cooled.' Dave
  31. 2 points
    Amazing information , really annoying anymore to hear or see the pros on T.V. talk about how their lures are designed to hunt only to see the very typical crank bait doing the very predictable wobble . We are all excited to see what you come up with . It's funny how you say it could look " Weird " but we've all seen what this means in the fishing world , weird is the norm . Good Luck Tommy
  32. 2 points
    Love your work Dave , as for me, well I am going to go and sit in a quiet corner (for a week) and try and digest all this . I think I have seen most of these zig's and zag's in most of the shapes I have made but to intentionally add all these attributes will be a work of art -- SO can't wait to check it out. As for the Mercury, I made a few about 10 years back with mercury switches (in tact) where the mercury could flow up and down the glass tube. I inserted these in various places in blanks and got some interesting results, BUT on reflection I later decided the pollution risk was not worth it . BUT gee the weight/volume ratio was great to work with. Looking forward to checking out the results from all. Pete
  33. 2 points
    Pouring it in a bowl and mixing it with a blender is ok. But are you absolutely sure you got all the stuff that settles on the bottom of the jug in the mix. Shaking it will not loosen it up all the time. When you say sticky, most of the time it is not mixed well enough. And if you feel what you are doing is to much maybe try and change what you do for that plastic. Gallon jugs are not really ideal for plastic that needs to be mixed well evertime. Getting something on the bottom of the container and making sure there is no sludge is very important for any plastisol. I see some guys say heating is important to this plastic you may need to check your initial temp very carefull. I use Spikeit plastic and never get mine above 340 without an issue. Mine is mostly around 330 initial heating. One other thing to remember when getting plastic from someone who repackages it it can be say inconsistent. Getting plastic from a company who makes it is always your better bet.
  34. 2 points
    https://www.rotometals.com/lead-ingots-wire/
  35. 2 points
    Hard to pour outside when its 35 degrees and raining all the time. I pour outside when its nicer in the spring but, a couple box fan pulling fumes, window and garage door open for ventilation, space heater to keep it from getting too cold is plenty. Prior to becoming a teacher, I spent 7 years doing QC testing and R&D work for chemical companies. I handled things far nastier than lead and plastic fumes. I pretty well versed in proper ventilation.
  36. 2 points
    ChrisNick78, Living and fishing in Massachusetts, my learning curve casting and painting non lead alloys began in 2012 and I am now quite comfortable with materials and procedures. Over a year ago I responded to another MA angler/lure maker about my experiences casting and painting bismuth/tin alloys. You can read it here: https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/184855-pouring-and-painting-lead-free-jigs/ It's a lengthy post, but if you read it to the end, you'll have the information to get good results right off the bat. Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.
  37. 2 points
    The only problem is the owner has no vested interest in your product so they will try to sell what they have paid for before selling your product. If you can get a high visibility location in the store, you will be better off. Also, if the store closed abruptly, you are out your product if you can't get in to remove it. We never put product on consignment just for those reasons. We lost 38 stores during the recession but were paid for the product so no monetary loss. Just my .02.
  38. 2 points
    MBY, If I were you i would practice on an old lure. Skeeter
  39. 2 points
    I need to get on the ball and find more. Roger Gruvso (Swede) God rest his sole, sent me a great amount of it years ago. I use it when I'm repairing and reserecting old wood lures for people. The stuff Roger sent me is really good quality I know it won't last forever .....
  40. 2 points
    You're a cruel mon Skinner!
  41. 2 points
    I had this happen once before and it was some contaminant in the lead. Allen
  42. 2 points
    When I first started making and painting jigs, I struggled with this decision. Topcoat or not? Eyes or not? I knew my jigs caught fish without the topcoat and eyes so why bother? After awhile and looking at some of the beautiful baits and creations in our gallery, I wanted my stuff to look like that. I needed to “up” my game. I asked a lot of questions and read a lot about people were doing, what products they were using etc.etc. Smalljaw told me one day what the topcoat will Do is make all that color you spent so much time applying really POP. That was sage advise from an experienced baitmaker. Eyes enhance your creations, also.
  43. 2 points
    I will say that the FB sites I've used have helped me improve the finish on my wood baits for airbrushing, clear coating, and foiling dramatically, but they haven't helped as much with actual crankbait building and design. Personally, I try not to ask questions unless I have first researched something and attempted to figure out my own solution. If someone gives you an answer to something it is much less likely that you'll even try to come up with a way to do it yourself and no creative thought is put towards that process. If we aren't thinking outside of the box then innovation occurs much more slowly. I'm willing to put in the time and work, and in many instances that has helped me. The other side of this is there have also been times when I've been stuck on various things that caused me to waste a ton of time figuring something out when there was a simple solution that many builders before me have taken advantage of. It's taken me this long to finally get confident that I can produce the few wood models that I make consistently to achieve desired action, and also understand the adjustments that I can make to them to fulfill multiple niches with each body style. This is for 1 piece balsa and basswood builds that are not inherently complex. I've got several more complex ideas that I had difficulty working with when I first started building, because I quickly realized that I didn't fully understand all of the variables and forces at play. Most of these ideas are going to require me to use 2 piece builds. The biggest problem I'm having at this point is finding ways to speed up the production of my baits so that I can make more efficient use of my time. Right now I use a band saw for basic shape, disk/belt sander for refining edges, and then carve and hand sand to reach my desired blank shape. That works well, but the hand carving/sanding is incredibly inefficient. In a perfect world new builders would be paired with an experienced one, and there would be a knowledge share that would take place. It's obvious what the experienced builder provides, but less so with a new builder. A new builder's lack of experience can actually be an advantage when it comes to creativity and ability to provide a fresh perspective. A new builder doesn't have preconceived notions about how things should work or be done. This can help provide new inspiration for crankbait design or production techniques that could be used by both builders. Think of it similar to how many large companies are moving towards a combination of young and more experienced employees within their executive teams. Since we don't often have this scenario for crankbait builders this site is about as close as many of us can get to this type of knowledge share.
  44. 2 points
    And remember that you can recover the over spray and use it again as long as you collect it.
  45. 2 points
    Wrong Mark.....I give guys. For over 16 yrs. clearcoats have been a topic and and there is still no real agreement. You guys have at it. I agree.... BobP knows epoxy. My hat is off to him as well. Skeeter
  46. 2 points
    Good luck with it and I think you will get it corrected. Your process seems solid. Likewise, I have never seen this before either. Where do you buy your powder?
  47. 2 points
    I typed a bit too much to try to give you a shopping list of some of the things to try. With all that you said, I don't see anything wrong with your process. I also heat jigs with a Wagner multi -temp heat gun, hold the jig with forceps, I do touch my jigs before painting (not intentionally without gloves), once coated I put them on a rack. Just a question for you. Do you get those voids or pit marks after you paint the jigs or after you bake them? I am going to take a wild guess and say it is the lead. In order to clean the raw lead, I would put them in vinegar. This will eat away any oils, then I would wash them in Dawn with a toothbrush and let them dry thoroughly. With the painted heads, you can strip the powder paint off with paint stripper. Then wash with Dawn like above. I also don't believe it is the powder paint either. Have you had this happen before just curious? You have a PM.
  48. 2 points
    First of all, adding Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) epoxy does not harden the paint it only adds a clear coat to your head. By putting D2T on your jigs, you are just prolonging your paint job awhile longer, until your epoxy wears off and then your paint starts wearing off from having your jigs dragged on the bottom of the lake or over rocks. If you are powder painting your jigs, baking them in a toaster oven hardens the paint. Applying D2T to a jig that has 2D or 3D eyes definitely keeps the eye from falling off. If you don't have eyes on your jig no need to epoxy the heads unless you want to. Finally, I would not dip the jigs in D2T, you will waste too much epoxy. Since D2T is self leveling, I just take a small paint brush and brush on the epoxy after the eyes are on, and then I stand the jig with the head up , to keep the epoxy from forming tear drops and sagging. You do not need a lot of epoxy to cover a jig. Thinner is better, but make sure you cover everything.
  49. 2 points
    If you are having problems with different colors of powder, I wouldn’t think it was the powder. If it was just one color, maybe the powder. What are the condition of your jigs before you put the powder on? Are they freshly cast with bright shiny lead or have they been around awhile and oxidized?
  50. 2 points
    One of our members named caster says they have clean lead with 3% antimony poured in ingots for 1.25 a pound. Sounds like a good price to me.
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