Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    I use one of two ways, depending whether the bait is one part or jointed. For one part I use papertrick, shown below. First, I trace the bait to a peace of paper and cut it out. Then I fold it in half, find the balancing point and press my pen through. Then I mark the point to my bait. Easy way to find center of gravity for one part bait. For jointed baits, I always find the CoG for each segments. I could use this paper trick to find the center but then there's an weight distribution problems... So I use this method below instead. I'll take an rubber band and twist a small wire on to it. You can also use fishing line. I'll loop that rubber band on the segment of my bait and start adding weights to that wire. I can change the distribution of the weights by moving the rubber band to front or back, or adding a second one, like shown in pics below. Weight in front of the CoG. Weight behind the CoG. Almost perfect weight distribution. Then I mark these spots, drive holes and add these weights.
  2. 3 points
    Cheap is never good and good is never cheap...
  3. 3 points
    I own the first set of Basstackle Twinjectors ever made and still have them. They are tanks and built well. I have a video from 2008 that I used then in and to this day have never had an issue. Look me up and see how they have evolved to what you see now. Franksrooty2 is my YouTube name. Just a fair warning There’s no beer or drums I am doing this to show how I use the Twinjector. Not entertaining just teaching.
  4. 2 points
    I hate to always be the wet blanket when it comes to screw wire vs thru wire, but in my opinion, if you are making a premium lure for muskies or pike, it should always be thru wire. Screw eyes are plenty strong when new, but after fishing with a lure for a year or two, almost no amount of finish will be able to withstand rocks and fish. If there is any moisture ingress or if the threads 'crack' loose from the glue that's holding the screw, it can pull out. Sorry, it just bugs me seeing musky lures that go for 100+$ dollars, and they have screw in hardware. This is the result. A lost lure and possibly a dead fish. This was from a big pike that crushed the lure boat side. Set the hook and out came the large screw eye. Hopefully the fish chucked the lure. This is from a 'well made' well known lure manufacturer (I won't name names or anything). This is the second time that it has happened to me, so I can only imagine with all the people fishing, how many times this may happen. This would not happen with thru wire. I'm tough on equipment, I fish a lot, and if there is a weakness, musky fishermen tend to find it. I'm headed out this weekend, freezing temps, and lakes icing up to go bash some other lures around on the Canadian shield hoping for another hog.
  5. 2 points
    Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
  6. 2 points
    Nice tubes. The squid is killer!
  7. 2 points
    If you will slide a thin piece of hard plastic under your baits that you have laid out to cure you can bag them by sliding the baits and thin plastic the baits are now laying on in the mouth of your bag without disturbing the baits much. You will need to lubricate your thin plastic, what ever you use, so it will slide easily under your baits. I use worm oil. I think most guys do. I also use a spatchula and have several with different widths. In the home goods department at Wally World you can find thin plastic cutting surface you can trim to fit your bags. I have thought about using these but my spatchula has a handle.
  8. 2 points
    Wasting your time with a patent attorney, unless you got really deep pockets... I think its pretty self educating if it has a patent, you can't copy it legally. Steve parks will have your balls hanging on his clothes line if you knock the strike king stuff.
  9. 2 points
    I like cedar for it's buoyancy, and natural water/rot resistant properties. I'm not exactly sure what kind of cedar they grow in California but i'm sure it will do. However, for carving fine details, it can be frustrating. The grain that is there is much harder than the wood between the grain if that makes any sense. So I can make for a difficult process to carve details. I prefer bass wood if I want to add any fine details, that stuff carves like a block of butter, it is amazing.
  10. 2 points
    I use western red cedar mostly. I will use white cedar if I can get it as well. I have a friend that operates a sawmill, and he saves me cutoffs of western red cedar that have no knots and relatively straight grain. If I need really consistent straight clear pieces, I will go and actually buy a 2x8 of clear straight grain cedar from Windsor plywood. I don't like doing that because it gets pretty pricey per foot.
  11. 2 points
    It will be like that till it gets used a bit. Loosen the top knobs a little and also the top of the injector tubes. This will help it break in and loosen up. After awhile it will be just fine. Try and not tighten those part to much they don’t need it and will ensure a long life of your injectors.
  12. 2 points
    I just posted two prop wake baits in the Hard Baits Gallery. The bluegill has already caught fish. I'm going to take the Ayu/golden shiner out for a swim this week. Fingers crossed!
  13. 2 points
    Yes another vote for the 6 oz. Way back when it was new I was a fan of starting with the 3 oz just because it was smaller. There’s still a learning curve but I think the biggest challenge is keeping the plastic the same temp or at least 10 deg from each other. When starting out it good to ask and know the reason for price differences. Just so you know it is the same with molds so ask away.
  14. 2 points
    Worth its weight in gold. You will know that when you get it.
  15. 2 points
    One of the first copies I made I foiled and painted and sealed with 2 ton devcon . Water got in and the wood swelled and split the devcon outer coating . The joints really take a beating during casting when the lure hits the water and paint chipping will occur . If you're trolling the bait like Mr. Cole there is less of a chance of this happening . The way to seal the wood to prevent it soaking up water is to mix up mineral spirits and linseed oil and soak the lure blank overnight in this mixture . Take it out the next day and hang it up till dry then prime and paint with oil based paint . The mix ratio is 9 parts mineral spirits to 1 part linseed oil . None of my future attempts ever split so this stuff works . Don't leave linseed oil on a rag or spontaneous combustion can occurs hours later and start a fire . Attached picture is a foiled AC plug copy I made that measures 12" from nose to tail
  16. 2 points
    My advice would be . Get a Bass Tackle injector . Mine are years old and other than having to buy new O rings ,they have took a licking and kept ticking.
  17. 2 points
    I liked lureworks better than any I’ve used personally. Like said if the shipping was cheaper it would be my first choice. I’ve used the calhouns when Leonard sold it & now use baitplastics & like it too.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    I was looking through some bookmarks yesterday and ran across this. If I was a just starting out looking for cheap alternatives, I think I may give these guys a try. Has anybody shot any of their molds? Anybody have any or do business with them? I’d like to hear some personal experience. https://authentic-handmade.myshopify.com
  20. 2 points
    Yes I made some Baby Bass...thank you all for the comments, recipes, etc....i used Dels light watermelon , black, gold and a little silver flake...w salt....im curious to try the glass crystals and will order some soon..........client seemed to like the color and ordered 60 more.......thank you all again. ive attached a link with the picture. https://sbgi-my.sharepoint.com/:i:/g/personal/deblackshire_sbgtv_com/EX5s3NMMPe1Dqz1sN-KMDHcBVcsplv6GxzavBilh--Anyg?e=Rb2IEX
  21. 2 points
    Godzilla, Most of the guys here who make large wood baits don't use screw eyes. They either run wire all the way through the bait (called "through-wire construction") or the cut 2-4 inches of SS wire, bend it in half, twist it leaving a loop and glue it in hole in place of a screw eye. These methods are both stronger and less expensive than screw eyes. I believe Janns Netcraft carries larger SS Screw eyes. Stephen
  22. 2 points
    Actually doing both achieves the same thing, yes pouring scent into the plastic before pouring the bait does work but you lose some scent due to the heating process, but also using a good plastisizer mixed with the scent as said above will achieve exactly the same thing. The plastisizer is absorbed into the bait all the way to the core of the bait, but of course you lose some scent due to mixing it with plastisizer. Either process you use will hold scent as long as the other but using the cold method, you do have to allow time for the plastisizer to absorb into the bait. Once it is absorbed into the bait, it will not wash off and you are achieving the same thing as if you are adding scent to the hot plastic. It really dosen't matter which process you choose to get the scent into the plastic, as long as the scent is there. It is just a matter of personal preference. I have added scented plastisizer to a bag of baits and the baits actually were dry after 2 or 3 days because they absorbed the plastisizer.
  23. 1 point
    Agreed. That with a tad of green hi-lite
  24. 1 point
    I got some of the lurecraft micro bubbles which are actually small hollow glass kinda like what is being talked about here. I'll work with it and post my results. I'll head all the warnings around respirators, fans turned down, add more dye due to glass causing lighter colors, etc.. stay tuned. my goal is to make baits similar to the z-man elaztec w/o all their negative properties and lack of fluid action u get from plastisol. we will see.
  25. 1 point
    Dick night wouldn't ship to me here in Alaska so I couldn't try it out. They are not likely to ship to Canada either. I use D2T epoxy or Alumi UV from alumilite to seal eyes on my saltwater jigs. I built a light box with a 1,000 watt blacklight to cure the Alumi UV. The Alumi UV was spendy with the shipping added in but they did ship to me. Overall I'm happy with both products. D2T works well to coat entire jigs. Not sure how either would work on a production scale. KBS diamond clear seems like a good product but I haven't tried it I think shipping may be an issue with it as well.
  26. 1 point
    I don’t sell. Just a hobby for me. And I don’t bag much anymore. I use those cheap plastic containers with tops that then go into my bass boat lockers. Maybe when I retire, I may get into some small time arrangement with a few mom and pop places just to have something to do and drink coffee, get out of the house, etc. if you want to produce a lot of baits, cavity count is what you have to work on.
  27. 1 point
    I hang them while on the runner. Then leave them about 3 days. Bag with scent . I put the scent in a spray bottle so I can spray the inside of the bag . Makes it easier to get the plastic to go in. I also made some skids I lay the plastics on to slide them in a uniform position into the bag. I put worm oil on those to make them slippery. Just my way and personal preference.
  28. 1 point
    Heavy wire version of my swim jig head and a head I am switching barb/collar on. Allen
  29. 1 point
    Thank you very much. If I had to guess, it was Shawn Collens, for some reason that name rings a bell. Thanks again
  30. 1 point
    Contact Jeff @ Top Shelf Tackle, He has just finalized everything and is the new distributor of Calhoun's plastic.
  31. 1 point
    Tamco is the best. You wont be disappointed.
  32. 1 point
    Looks great Mark. I look forward to seeing you out on the Delta so I can see how it swims. Barry
  33. 1 point
    Have you spoken with Lureworks/Spikeit? In bulk they may give you some bulk pricing.
  34. 1 point
    I don’t think you want an Aberdeen hook just from your description. Aberdeen is a thin wire, long shank that will bend out. What sizes are you searching for? That will help a bunch. There are a lot of good 90 degree, heavy wire jig hooks available but when you get into smaller sizes the options look limited. Just a cursory look at Capt. hooks shows a Mustad 32833NP-BN Ultra Point 2X strong 90 degree jig hook that might work well for your application. They bill it as a Salmon/Steelhead hook that’s heavy wire and black nickel. Comes in 12 sizes from 1-6/0 that should be a nice hook. These will be more expensive than an Aberdeen hook.
  35. 1 point
    got a better hang of the selfmade hemway dye. this is 10 drops from a mix of 100g pigment and 450ml plastisol in 200 ml plastisol + black halo glitter
  36. 1 point
    You'll be glad to bought it instead of others.
  37. 1 point
    I'm already happy with my BassTackle injector and I haven't opened it yet! I ordered it Thursday afternoon and it arrived to me in GA today. Super fast shipping!
  38. 1 point
    WD40 works great, after shooting for the day I give it a spray work the plunger a couple times and I'm done.
  39. 1 point
    Twin 6 ounce all the way. I actually purchased one off of Frank last year & really like it. I had a 6 & a 10 ounce basstackle already before getting the twin off of Frank. I also had one fromBaitplastics which was the one from Quality Injector & i was never able to make the first shot with it. Baitplastic returned mine & many others money. I will also say that a lot of that have them & don't have any problems with them.
  40. 1 point
    Ok looking at that picture I have a different view. This one is chartreuse DYE and purple. And again start with equal amounts and a just from there. If you use Mf colors they will get you there slower, meaning they are a weaker concentration. If you use lure works then use way less drops. I am a fan of the lure works one and have been for years. They don’t have the one I used to use anymore so I figured out how to duplicate it my self. So in the end if you want the Mf colors use Mf colors. It will be real close. One tip is less purple will make it less green like in your pic.
  41. 1 point
    Go with the basstackle twin 6oz injector. Quality will pay for itself in the long run.
  42. 1 point
    I took this from the FAQ page at the site where you buy your resin. It would seem that it's a standard 1:1 mixture of epoxy resin similar to what is available anywhere. Before I move to UV resin I used epoxy, another brand but epoxy I found it to be very good. I simply moved to UV because of the convenience. I'm not sure what's up with yours but epoxies I've used have been good. Can I use ArtResin to coat fishing lures? Using ArtResin Epoxy Resin on a Fishing Lure Yes. ArtResin epoxy resin is very durable and waterproof. Once cured, the resin is inert and therefore does not pose a threat to aquatic life. Although it can be indented with a fingernail in the first few days after curing, it is not typically able to be indented after the first 72 hour window. ArtResin epoxy resin has been shown in third party lab tests to outperform other epoxy resins in terms of non-yellowing longevity, resulting in a realistic-looking lure that will last.
  43. 1 point
    Crayons are also a good alternative. I used them in past with good results. Bye. Cami
  44. 1 point
    Ok I will bite .. Ike ? what's with that ?
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    That would seem to make adding some kind of a scent a good idea.
  48. 1 point
    All depends on where and what I am fishing for. Between pike and lake trout I can use anything depth wise. Size the lures I make mare between 4-8inch usually
  49. 1 point
    KennyP A bit of advice with your pursuit of a life like action. Something I have found when someone is building a lure is they have this vision on how it should move. We often get caught up in trying to make the lure track perfect and keep consistent action. What I have found over time these are not the lures that out produced others. They look good and often do catch fish but they are just OK. The most productive lure I ever created now sits snagged on the bottom in 160ft of water. It out produced anything I trolled for Lakers. It was actually a reject that split well drilling a pilot hole and rather then tossing it I just did a random re shape. It had a random action I cannot duplicate. It seemed to fight it self every which way and randomly take off 4ft to the side then track back to center. It was a complete spaz and far from natural What I am getting at is in your search for a perfect natural action don’t overlook your mistakes a long the way. You maybe trying to fix a lure that will out produce the one in your mind. Always let the fish be the judge
  50. 1 point
  • Create New...