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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/18/2018 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    A easy adjustable balast I learned and used just yesterday is lead solder wire. Especially on your first few baits, get it initially where you want it and then cater to water temp, line material, hook weight, distribution, etc with the use of lead solder around the hook shanks. A smaller diameter solder shouldn't affect hook ups too bad. I just used this on a floater jerkbait to make it slow sink in cold water. Another plus is its cheaper than suspend dots. So many possibilities!
  2. 3 points
    He was talking how to paint the LC Table Rock. Hughesy may have painted one or two Table Rock Shad over the time as everyone has their knockoff of his. Everyone has their interpretation of his color pattern. Here is an old post of his from 2004. First of all let me thank you for the nice compliments. As far as my "create your own colors page", I did try using my own colors but they didn't look right because of places like where the back color faded into the side of the baits looked real funky, the color of the paint behind the scale pattern would show up and many other issues I came across. It was a real pain. I just put that page on there for the fun of it. I doubt if anyone uses it to really design colors all though I have received many orders with the little pictures as a sample. I might change it around if I every get time to play around with it. As far as it increasing my orders, its killing me the way it is now. We are running about 5 to 6 weeks on deliveries of orders as we speak with no end in sight. On patenting colors schemes, I don't think its possible because you could add 2 drops of white to any color and barely change the color but I'm sure in a court of law it would be considered a new color even though it matches your to a T. If you notice that most of the Big Boys that copy my stuff do not get the colors right. Lucky Crafts Table Rock Shad is a real faded chartreuse and almost a flat purple, Normans Sour Grape has purple flake and the they to can't get the right purple and chartreuse. The same with Pradco's Mark Menendez line. All of those colors are a copies of mine but they just can't get the colors tint right. Plus the quality of their work could use some help. Thanks again clemmy for the great ideas but I'm just gonna stay right where I'm at and just keep on shootin that paint.
  3. 3 points
    Well its a copy of my original table rock shad but I'll give it a shot. I use lacquer paint and I know most don't so I'll just use general color names. 1. cover white entire lure. 2. mix white with a small amount of chartreuse for sides. 3. mix deep violet with a small amount of red. 4. pearl white belly. 5. black dot.
  4. 3 points
    The joy of this hobby is there are no rules when making what you want.
  5. 2 points
    Hey, I don't get in here much anymore so I missed all this. Glad to hear you are doing better. I can't image your personal difficulties, but I went through similar issues back in 2003 when I hit a car almost head on with my motorcycle, busted a leg (folded up behind me), busted up my foot, and cracked two bones in my right hand. Here's hoping your recovery is more complete than mine. Happy New Year.
  6. 2 points
    I don’t think it’s contaminated epoxy if it only shows up on one area of your bait. And you could see it in the resin or the hardener before you mixed it. The problem more often is dried bits of epoxy being shed by your brush, or other debris in the brush.
  7. 2 points
    MORE ON MOLD MAKING To make a mold one has to have something to mold. Most all of my bait designs were to make a bait that fits one of the Do-It leaded molds. I start with two pieces of 0.032 brass shim stock. These are fastened togeather with double sided cellophane tape. The outline of the bait is then sawed, filed , etc. your satisfaction. The body of the bait are then made up of 1/32 strips of basswood glued together to the thickness required. Each 1/32 strip is coated with a color before gluing. This will facilitate shaping the body. When the body is finished The model is then separated into the two halves and mounted into the cavity. Sprues are the added and your are ready to mold. Most of my molds are made with polyurethane resin [ RC-3, VAC50, specialty resin.com]. I usually make a dozen bait molds of each design. This only a hobby for me and I don't sell baits. Usually make baits 2 or 3 times a year or as required.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Either will work... For normal paint jobs a lure is dry enough to handle after spraying a few other baits. I dried crackle paint jobs to speed the process but the product I used seamed slow to dry but the undercoat I was using was brushed. I have never been in a big of enough hurry to use them with any consistent basis. As I may paint a dozen lures, then go build a dozen lures, top coat the painted lures a day or two later, paint the new lures, install hardware, decide to pour some baits..... Hopefully I go fishing instead of doing any of it as no point in making lures for kicks. I started cleaning up my garage and found baits that need clear coats. They were signed and dated 4/21/12.
  10. 2 points
    Pretty much all of these bodies are coming from China, no matter where you buy them from. I have worked in China (non-lure related) and visited many small part factories in the course of my design work. Not all small manufacturers are equal. There are those who produce an accurate shape, but know absolutely nothing about lures. Consequently, the lures do not swim as intended. Others get the swim right but fail to allow for the addition of a topcoat, which changes everything. And then there are companies that know what they are doing, took advice and produce a good product. The girls on the high intensity production line know nothing about your requirements, they are simply trying to keep up and make their quotas. Quality control is often lacking, and so you should expect a few leaky bodies. But, if the lure does not swim right, time to find a new supplier. There is plenty of good advice regards suppliers, see above post(s). I used to be extremely critical of this section of lure 'building', but now I am forced to accept its inclusion in our 'hobby'. Painting is a skill I admire deeply. Still, give me a block of wood any day Dave
  11. 2 points
    You determine the thickness of a coat of ETEX epoxy by the time you wait after mixing it before you apply it. Some wait as long as 15 minutes. Fatfingers posted a member submitted tutorial on how he applied ETEX several years ago. He obtains thick beautiful topcoats on musky lures. His tutorial is titled Trying To Achieve a Perfect Finish. Check it out.
  12. 2 points
    Jonister - good comments. Once the bait is moving, the topcoat has very little effect on a lipped lure, the dynamic effects of the water are so overpowering. Whether you design the lure as a 'sinker' or a 'floater', the lure is going to swim at a depth defined by the lip, eye position and the body shape. Many TU members, some of which I have enormous respect for, will disagree with me on this point, but the parameters that I mentioned above determine the depth that the lure swims at. Line thickness also plays a crucial part. Ballast distribution has a significant effect on the 'action', but because the epoxy is evenly distributed, action is hardly affected by the topcoat. Knowledge of the density of the topcoat and the effect on the final lure density only matters if you are striving for a neutral density lure, in other words a 'suspending' lure, which I presumed that was the case in this discussion. Perhaps I should have asked the reason for the question in the first place Dave
  13. 2 points
    Bro...get yourself a Master torpedo heater. They are certified to run on KT-1 Kerosene (very expensive) #1/#2 diesel, #1/#2 fuel oil, JP-8 and Jet A fuels. I use diesel in mine. Mine also has a thermostat so it doesn't run non-stop and with me now pouring in front of a window with a box fan, the heater runs less than half the time now and keeps the garage nice and warm. This is the one I got. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/master-80000-btu-kerosene-forced-air-heater-mh-80t-kfa Be sure to buy the replacement warranty as these are now made in China. My first one wouldn't run right at all even with new parts shipped to me, so I took it back and the replacement runs like a dream.
  14. 2 points
    I have some of their molds. They are superb. Worth the wait.
  15. 2 points
    You'll wait for your order from Angling A.I. but it is worth the wait. Their molds shoot very, very well. I own their 5" jerkbait and their 5.25" stickbait molds. I plan on buying every size of jerkbait they sell, plus their blood line swimbait, DR swimbaits, Stinger (4" and 3.25") and their kicker tail worms. I'll have to wait for each mold to be cut, but I'll do so gladly.
  16. 2 points
    +1 on WD-40.... basically makes the surfaces "slippery" and the plasitsol seems to just slide off it instead of sticking.... plus give anything metal a bit of protection should you leave it sitting around. One quick wipe with a paper towel before next use and everything is good to go. J.
  17. 2 points
    They aren't spun, just injected
  18. 2 points
    I use a harder plaster than POP, but same principle, always paint a coat of plaster on the mold models to eliminate the bubbles. This "2fer" mold was sealed with epoxy spray paint, but high temp engine enamel works good too. The mold half laying down works with either of the other two halves
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Yep I screwed up & didn’t rotate them 90*. That’s the color I wanted them though. Black with blue flake on one half of each bait& blue with blue flake on the other side. I wondered how the angling ai mold would laminate, but it does a fine job.
  21. 2 points
    Erick, your reply made me think of the line by Groucho Marx, "I don't care to belong to any club that will have me as a member."
  22. 2 points
    Here is the color that the stuff I use from smooth on is.
  23. 2 points
  24. 1 point
    As usual words are better than 1000 words. I simply added to my Pin Tail Soft Bait a little tail shaped from a fiberglass foil. After the soft bait tail is passed through the hole of fiberglass tail, I melt the soft edge with a Chef Torch to fix the fiberglass tail in position. It is not exactly an idea of mine, but it comes from Imakatsu that shows here his prototype: Soft bait swimming is exactly as showed ... it wags its tail Ciao. Cami
  25. 1 point
    Gold color on top of lead means one of two things. Calcium contamination or if you know it's pure lead it getting HOT.