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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/28/2020 in Posts

  1. Gained about $2000 or more in sales last year just by giving away a handful of blemish lures at lakes that cost me maybe $100 in materials. It’s even better when the father of the kid calls me to buy some lures because his kid out fished him that day. Nothing sells lures better then fisherman seeing them catch fish I tell every kid that I give a lure to it’s their lure and Dad is not allowed to use it Think of it as investing in advertisement
    5 points
  2. @Skeeter what I know that is different about it is that it was designed to have no toxic fumes because several well known lure makers had died of cancer and Joe, the guy that developed it, did so as a response to that. As far as anything about the product that makes it more suited to lure making I am not sure. It does work like a charm though. First time using it and I got the best, nearly flawless topcoat I’ve ever gotten:
    5 points
  3. JD - The spherical domain enclosed by the tall man's spell of 4πr³/3 is an intriguing and fascinating subject. It is the simplest shape and yet the most difficult to carve. I have actually experimented with spherically derived shapes and the resulting actions are interesting. If you pull a sphere through water you get a pure spiral action. I do most of my cranial development work while sleeping, so you could say that I work in an alternative universe Dave
    4 points
  4. You are correct and many would find making baits is a losing endeavor if they put any dollar value on their time. Building cranks one off is about the least efficient way to make cranks. Multiples pay off as less time is wasted setting up tools, measurements, etc.. Some aspects are rather quick so may just knock out a bunch of blanks for future use. May take 30 minutes and drill all the hook hanger and belly weights, etc.. (jig holds the blank in position on drill press). I will just keep blanks in plastic shoe boxes or shallow tool box trays in different stages. If ti
    4 points
  5. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; cha
    4 points
  6. This is a tale of multiple ‘happy accidents’ making a memorable lure. I have a bond with this lure that is tempting me to not retire it, even though it belongs on the wall now. My favorite lure is one I call Dicky Moe after the whale in a Tom & Jerry cartoon. The cartoon whale was the first thing I thought of when the lure was finished. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bttiQVVweJE It is all white, 9.75” long, and weighs 3.1 oz. without the hooks. The bait came out longer than expected because I forgot to take into account the joint gaps would add close to an inch of length
    4 points
  7. If those are your first baits man you are well on your way! They look great. In my day job I am a network engineer so I can appreciate the fact that you used the two sides from an old computer case for your painting booth. That's awesome man:) You have for sure found yourself in the land of bait makers here. Everyone here is extremely helpful and listening to their advice will only make you better at this amazing hobby. There have been so many good tips provided here and I'd like to give you a couple as well. Just a couple of tips to make things easier for you I guess. I used to have HP
    4 points
  8. Rubbish, the dolphin showed no interest in the lure what so ever! Just kidding, great work, looks amazing Dave
    4 points
  9. Yea, if it isn't right I for sure don't sell it. They go into my tackle box, or a close friend to use and test. If it has my name on it and I sell it, I want it to have good finish. Otherwise, you will be selling all your lures for discount, or other potential customers will see a sub par product. I like the idea of giving them to kids, but yea as a musky lure maker that might be tough lol. Honestly, I don't make/paint tons of lures, so I will usually take the messed up lures, and start over with it. Put a different paint job on it, or experiment with it. I have a bunch of lures on my "
    3 points
  10. ... ... If anyone needs a tester* in northern Illinois you just let me know! *said tester is not a professional and has absolutely no social media presence outside a YouTube channel with 2 subscribers. Said tested is also has a very poor quality camera and cannot guarantee any good photographs of the successful use of your lure. Said tester has 4 sons who are very energetic and enthusiastic about fishing, but not particularly focused (especially the 2 month old).
    3 points
  11. I make 5 to 10 at a time and I make them out of resin I do very little wood other that the first one for testing. Although I like wood better some guys will only fish wood I make mostly musky baits. Wayne
    3 points
  12. Ya, I agree. I am NOT an artist. My painting proves it. But, the fish don't care one bit. LOL
    3 points
  13. JD_mudbug & Mark I agree, Iv'e been building handcrafted lures for quite a while and have had some great success with them, but the one that sticks out to me was a tournament buddy of mine asked me to build him a pair of shallow water crankbaits for a certain situation, I built 2 and painted them in a japaneese style or version of sexy shad. He fished them the weekend after picking them up and caught over 30 bass ( 1 day ) with those lures. So I'd have to say seeing someone else, especially a buddy fish your creation and have success would be my best. I've built this particular lure for ma
    3 points
  14. I also view crankbaits as expendable and I don’t have customers who expect (unreasonably) that they last forever. That doesn’t mean I want them to disintegrate an hour into a hot crankbait bite though. I undercoat with epoxy and topcoat with various stuff - MCU, UV resin, or epoxy. So my baits have 2 tough waterproof coatings. That’s enough for me. But all of us are “rolling their own” and if you want 10 layers of finish on your bait for some reason, well, no fault, no foul.
    3 points
  15. I use 1/4" and 3/16" lead wire, so all I have to do is drill that size hole, and super glue in the correct weight of wire. Here is one source, but there are others online: https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bullet-weights-lead-wire?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&ds_e=GOOGLE&ds_c=Shop|Generic|AllProducts|High|SSCCatchAll&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0fr_BRDaARIsAABw4EtgIb3rOqrUGUiDN1LzC_kIEFWfbGsqSVf0GUJPMuyGigThCO48_rcaAlAbEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
    3 points
  16. Sealing? NO Base coating? normally yes to get a good paint job.
    3 points
  17. A quick video highlighting a few modifications to my 10" WEN 3962 bandsaw http://rvbprecision.com/machine-tools-welding/wen-3962-bandsaw-modifications-walk-around.html
    3 points
  18. Selling baits... Few ways to go with depending on your goals. Identify your goals and do what best suits those goals. High end quality baits aimed at getting $$$$$, knocking out baits quick and selling numbers for cheap, are you trying to just break even, make money, etc.. Finally I will say do a search about Federal Excise Tax and fishing lures....at least be aware of Form 720 Part II No. 41.
    3 points
  19. There are a bunch of different types of lipless crankbaits. A flatfish is just one type of many different types of lipless cranks. The one in your pic was a common style years ago similar to the Heddon Bayou Boogie, Pico Chico, Storm Whiz Bang, Buckeye Shad Lipless Crank. Poe's also made a lipless back in the day similar to your pic. Although some of the older style baits are still being sold, that older style seems to have fallen out of favor since the Rattle Trap type baits gained in popularity. Your pic does have the line tie lower than most of the older baits. The pictured lure'
    3 points
  20. Why would you need to modify the mold? Do you want to use a different hook that might not fit? Are you wanting to change or add something? You only have to modify a mold if you want to use a hook that doesn't fit, or if you want to add a wire keeper or something else. I'll be honest, get a mold that you want that has all the elements you want without making changes. Don't worry about the hook brand, if you don't like a hook that the mold calls for there usually are alternatives and members here will let you know what fits. I say that because a lot of times a modified mold could get finicky and
    3 points
  21. Man.....what an INCREDIBLE thread! This is why I am here to stay. I want to learn and one cannot help but do so by watching you all converse about such topics. You have all proven time and time again to be very intelligent and deeply creative, each of you in your own right, thinkers and craftsmen. This is hands down the most helpful and knowledgable community on the Interwebs. I'd rather read threads like this than "Netflix and Chill" any day. Great stuff! I came into this hobby two years ago from a nearly zero woodworking background and because of everyone here I am making baits that I
    3 points
  22. I like double pin joints, this gives maximum freedom to the hinge as one joint has two pivots. Strength-wise, the load is distributed along the length of the pin, perpendicular to the pull direction, you would have to rip the lure in half to break it. There are so many joint solutions and I cannot say that any are particularly bad. Whether a joint will fail or not all comes down to your design; screw-eyes too short, area around pin to thin, inadequate sealing, etc. Hinges are all about free movement, even the slightest resistance to movement will cancel out the action. Rear facing V-
    3 points
  23. Amazing how efficiency picks up when using 18 molds.
    3 points
  24. Lots of good info and advice given here. It would take me a week to put my thoughts down on the subject in such a way that would be helpful. I have a tendency to talk in circles and am much better at building than explaining things. I don't have a physics degree or any knowledge other than what I've learned through many years of screwing up. My advice for any new builder is to try to duplicate an existing bait that is a known producer. Templates for different styles are out there if you look around online. My first builds were a Shad Rap profile that I was able to find this pattern for. B
    3 points
  25. It was simultaneously harder, and easier, than I thought it would be.
    2 points
  26. exx1976 I made most out of resin and some cedar. People some liked the cedar and some liked the resin ones so that is part of why I am stepping back now, I will just take my time at 78 i am not going to think to far down the line my one son shows some interest and my one grandson worked with me. I just enjoy doing it maybe one big rummage sale late summer and a couple flea markets to sell what I have. One thing at flea markets some people just want to chew you down and another comes and tells you great work with no chewing down because they say they know what goes into making a lure.
    2 points
  27. I sold my lures at the Musky Show for 30 to 35.00 I also had a hard time selling on ebay for 5.00 so I just stopped and took a look at what and how I was doing my lures. Will come out with some new lures by early summer. Will have two types I will get rid of all my plastic lures which I purchased paint and sell and go back to 6" and bigger 9" to 12" out of wood which I enjoy and stay away from e-bay and find other means of selling maybe go back to my own web site not sure about face book. I also would like to do flea markets just to talk lure making with the guys. If this virus ever gets ove
    2 points
  28. Dave, in an alternate reality, I see you working with the Tall Man from Phantasm. 'I think those spheres could be improved a bit'.
    2 points
  29. Dave says "nerdy". I say "sexy". @Vodkaman you are amongst nerd friends here:) The nerdier the better:)
    2 points
  30. I understood it with the hand in the water example. It's definitely counter intuitive.
    2 points
  31. Congrats on getting the belt sander. I would go with .093 on a 5.5" lure unless it is going to be over 2 oz. or have a long lip. From the other post: Generally, I go with .093" Lexan for small lures 4" to 6.5" usually under 1.5 ounces. I go with 1/8" (.125") Lexan for bigger lures 6.5" to 11" that range from 1.5 to 3.5 ounces. For lures bigger or heavier than those, I go with 3/16" Lexan. Lures near the gray areas in between those ranges may get a thicker or thinner lip depending on the way the lure will be fished and the size of the lip. If the lip is going to be a long lip, I us
    2 points
  32. Weight placement isn't something any of us are really going to be able to tell you. You're going to need to make several baits of the same design, and put weight in different places on all of them and see how you like the action. One lure might do great with weight right in the middle, one might do great with a single weight towards the front, another might do great with two weights evenly spaced apart, another might need more toward the front than the rear.. Also depends on what type of action you're looking for as to where you place the lead. Further, you're going to need to be very
    2 points
  33. If they are too bad I rob what useful parts I can Mild blemish I fish them and give them away as testers. I often give away lures to kids at the dock as well. I carry cards in my truck and boat as well Giving away blemished lures has resulted in lots of customers I would never sell a blemished bait because I want paying customers to get quality
    2 points
  34. The blending block has done a swirl for me when I did not want it. Use to have plenty of blems to prove it. With a little practice you can get great results.
    2 points
  35. Tomato/potato.... It's actually called a blending block. Its primary purpose is for shooting laminates but you can also get it to do other things as Frank has explained.
    2 points
  36. If you buy someone’s twin injector just make one color hotter than the other. It will make what you are describing. Nothing else to buy. I am sure a lot of us have gotten that when we did not want to.
    2 points
  37. I’ve been finishing baits for three years and have used both BSI and D2T. It has been surprising to me that I have rarely had any problems with bubbles, fish eyes or excessive cure times, particularly considering how many people do. Recently I have concluded that my lack of issues is because I live in Florida and don’t experience cold temperatures. From what I’ve noticed, there seem to be more epoxy issues in Northern areas. So I agree with LHL that temperature is very significant.
    2 points
  38. Etex seems to be one of the more sensitive epoxies. I don't have the best luck with it. Don't forget to check for high humidity as well as temp. High humidity can affect the curing of some epoxies. Etex cures best at below 50% humidity. I was surprised at how much humidity there was in my basement during winter. When using Etex, I run a dehumidifier. https://www.eti-usa.com/sites/eti-usa.com/files/bulletins/Envirotex-Lite-Professional-Tip-Sheet2.pdf Lately, I have started using D2T more just to carry me through until I stop procrastinating and build a UV setup. D2T seems to be more
    2 points
  39. @Big Epp linke @Brick Steel said above I also use a 6 gallon compressor. Works great and has a built in regulator with water trap. I usually just turn it on and let it fill up, which takes about a minute and a half I guess, then I turn it off and use it until empty. Depending on the paint scheme it can sometimes get me through an entire bait before I need to turn it on to fill up again.
    2 points
  40. My favorite metallic colors are: Wicked gold, Wicked silver, and Craftsmart metallic Titanium (if you can find it). But if you want true metallic shine, get some fingernail art foil in metallic silver and holographic silver. There are tutorials on this forum on how to do this. Metallic paints can be applied over a black or white base. The effects are quite different. A quick pass fine mist can also be sprayed over a completed paint job. It acts almost like glitter. Have fun
    2 points
  41. Followup: 5233K51 from McMaster-Carr was perfect.
    2 points
  42. Update on learning curve. Cut the stainless rods a bit short so as not to interfere with the injection port. Made one a bit longer to see if that actually would happen. It doesn't. Actually makes a better bait. Will order more stainless rods, and cut them longer. also on my learning curve. Removing the stainless rods is a *%^$ if you forget to lube them. Note to self Remember to lube the rods.
    2 points
  43. Try posting this in the Wire Baits forum. You'll probably get better ideas there. For lead ingots Ebay.
    2 points
  44. I tried that, years ago, but my ex-wife got pissed.
    2 points
  45. 35 is not as fast as you think it is. Get one and try it. Then you will know. And the plastic is thicker than you think. I can’t suck up anything if it is down to 1/2 an inch from the bottom.
    2 points
  46. Wasn't saying it was a scam just I doubt it is much more than a repackaged product. I have come across the product on a few forums and some of the claims made by users should be highlighted on the site as it would really separate it from other similar products. However no real attempt has been made. I have no doubt the product works. I have used Etex Light, Devcon, Bob Smith, and several DIY bar top epoxies with out much issue either (only make bass baits). I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
    2 points
  47. There are no real claims on their "site" for a reason. Much of what one hears regarding the product are just guys making claims. Their site isn't really put together that well compared to most businesses/companies would put together. Guarantee if they had tested the product they would clearly have it listed on the site. Also will notice (may have overlooked it) that no SDS is on the site for the product. I think it is more likely a guy found a way to make some supplemental income and it is just a repackaged product with a markup. Perhaps something from Specialty Resin. https
    2 points
  48. https://trueglidelures.com/product/truecoat-quart-kit-2-16oz-bottles/
    2 points
  49. At the very least we would need more information on your bait. I tested some baits and did a YouTube video (my wife deleted my channel a few years ago) showing a jointed lure I did with just light pins molded into Alumilite White, with a foam core, lures. The pull weight was well over a hundred pounds for the two pins and the torque was well over 50. So, for that construction, a simple small pin molded in was more than enough. If I was making that bait out of Balsa, I sure would not expect that kind of result. So, depends, but through-wire is not always necessary.
    2 points
  50. So I finished my first batch. Thank-you everyone for the advice. Worth it's weight in gold. Quite happy with the way the run. Made MANY mistakes along the way. Not happy with how blotchy the epoxy set. I made a rotisserie, and hit them with a heat gun - but not the most ideal finish to be honest (30 minute epoxy). My eyes aren't the size I wanted - I had ordered some online, and are"6-8 weeks behind" on shipping. I had to pivot and get other ones - that don't fit the way I want. I used an avacado bag for the scales - my template didn't show up. I need a good firetiger template.
    2 points
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