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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/28/2021 in Posts

  1. It was simultaneously harder, and easier, than I thought it would be.
    1 point
  2. Yes, I've seen numerous videos of what you describe for the belly hangers used on large (fat) crankbaits that use a drill-thru design instead of a slot. Unless I run into some serious issues, I'm pretty settled on the belly slot - at least for this lure. The belly is nearly completely flat, save for the slight upturn at the nose. Filling the back with epoxy would have to be multiple pours due to the contour - and that is not a time-save process. Additionally, doing it from the belly side allows me to seal the wire and the ballast in one fell swoop. If I did the back, I'd have to seal
    1 point
  3. Yes, epoxy for belly slots, Bondo is not strong enough, more of a hold in place thing. I use a flap wheel in the drill press for the final sanding process. New wheels are not so nice to use, but once they are worn in they are great for lures. Through drilling for a distance of 2" is very easy and is 100% success rate using the spiked plate method. Using the back slot method, the harness does not literally need to be one piece. If I was to build another back slot lure, I would twist the drop eyes separate with a loop at each end. Inserting the drop eye from the bottom, the back h
    1 point
  4. Good eye. The lip is g10, and it's not coming out. Additionally, this lure is designed for shallow work, not bottom dragging. It oy runs 24" on the deep side when twitching. Straight retrieve you can maybe get it to 3 feet. It's designed for working the top of weed flats. As for the epoxy "running out".. I'll let you know how I solve that. I'm thinking more painters tape, but we'll see. Hoping to mess with it later tonight. Planning to mix some sawdust into the epoxy to thicken it into more of a paste, too, which should help lessen the issues.
    1 point
  5. exx1976 I made most out of resin and some cedar. People some liked the cedar and some liked the resin ones so that is part of why I am stepping back now, I will just take my time at 78 i am not going to think to far down the line my one son shows some interest and my one grandson worked with me. I just enjoy doing it maybe one big rummage sale late summer and a couple flea markets to sell what I have. One thing at flea markets some people just want to chew you down and another comes and tells you great work with no chewing down because they say they know what goes into making a lure.
    1 point
  6. Sounds good! Yea, the top slot does suck for that reason. Drilling holes through to still allow the hook hangers to go through is a bit of an extra step. Let me know how the epoxying of the slot goes? I had trouble just using epoxy as it constantly ran out and ended up being a big mess, and I still had to fill the slot a bit more. What kind of epoxy are you using for that purpose? I have some lead sheets from old underground powerline (very old) that works well for ballast. I can cut it and it fits into the slot just right. That was a good find at work. The 1" belt sander wo
    1 point
  7. Welcome here first of all! I'm not totally familiar with the lure that you are making, but I use .062" wire in my muskie lures. I typically get my wire in the form of Stainless Steel Tig welding rod. Available almost everywhere, and comparatively cheap, and straight! This wire come is lots of sizes, so if you needed you can get .09" (3/32) as well or whatever you need. I have some of the .09 stuff for certain applications, and that stuff is hard to bend! The .062" stuff isn't too hard. Invest in some really good round nosed pliers (anything from KNIPEX is amazing). You can make
    1 point
  8. Yea Vodkaman, my most recent lures that I just finished gluing up have the slot down the back. I leaves me more room as well for other things like rattles or weight. Sanding the slot smooth down the back helps without the hook hangers sticking down as well. I think both ways work though overall. I really like bondo too. Liquid superglue is expensive and i have to order it online. Bondo is cheap and available. Once I apply the bondo, i wait like 5 minutes or so till it is still in the curing stage, then using a sharp knife, I can easily remove most of the excess. I carves off like
    1 point
  9. My solution was a Bondo style filler. It is fast curing and sands well. I prefer my slot down the back of the lure rather than the belly, this makes the slot filler less significant as it cannot be ripped out. Dave
    1 point
  10. Nice looks good! What are you planning on filing the slot with? That seems to be my most time consuming part. I "piping bag" epoxy into the slot, place the wire in, then use a stick to get epoxy on the side walls, then jam a piece of thin wood into the slot. Saves on filling the entire slot up with epoxy. If there are any gaps after (which there probably will be), i use bondo (or you could try the super glue/baking powder trick).
    1 point
  11. Mark - direction is random. Dave
    1 point
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