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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    NWBass, I'm coming into the conversation a little late, so I apologize for that (took a few days off for spring break with the kids!). I'm sorry you're having issue with the split rings you purchased from us. As many here have already suggested, there's definitely some technique to putting these together. I've built more than I can count, and I still semi-regularly end up with sprung split rings. A couple of suggestions that haven't already been covered: Consider using narrow opening split ring pliers. These are widely available online, including from us, many of our competitors, and from Amazon. The lower jaw on these pliers extends past the downward point of the upper jaw (think underbite), making it far more difficult to overextend your split rings. Basically, they limit how far you can open your split rings. I use these almost exclusively when building chatterbaits. When I'm building these, I use two pairs of split ring pliers (or, depending on what I have on hand, a pair of split ring pliers and a small pair of round nose pliers). The technique is difficult to describe, but, basically, I use the narrow opening split ring pliers to get the ring started on the blade, then, while using the narrow opening pliers to keep the split ring open, I'll use the other pair of pliers to rotate the split ring onto the blade. Not sure that makes sense, but I've found it far easier to maneuver/rotate the ring/blade this way without overextending the ring. Maybe I'm just losing dexterity as I age! If you like, PM me your order info (order number and/or email address) and I'll double check to make sure we sent you the right rings. It's possible another style of split ring slipped in there (stainless steel would be a nightmare on these). We'll do what we can to make things right. Thanks, and good fishing! Matt Barlow
  2. 3 points
    If I had a $1 for every time someone told me that a particular lure was the only consistent fish catcher.... Well lets just say I would have a Lear jet in my driveway.
  3. 3 points
    Judging is complete. Winners have been chosen! We will announce them on the 13th, just 2 days from now.
  4. 3 points
    When you paint a jig with it and you see all one color, don't get excited. The first time I used gold veined paint I was disappointed as the jigs looked like plain gold. I figured they were painted so I'll cure them and maybe add some GP or watermelon and make roadkill out of it. Well after I took them out of the oven they looked great, and so don't judge your jig until after it is cured, that is when the veins really come out.
  5. 3 points
    Only thing I have to add to this is those baits look great. Allen
  6. 3 points
    It's like the perfect husband. All my ex-wives said it doesn't exist, but they love it at first, till they found out about the handling issues. Hahaha
  7. 3 points
    I've probably said this a million times and like sallmouthaholic said " don't quit your day job". This isn't meant for me to get rich off of. I have a full time job for that. This is my way of relaxing, talk to a lot of fishermen and learn what the latest tactics are to improve my fish catching . The money I make from this, I would starve and be poor if this was my only source of income. This is a hobby and that's all it is to me. Some days you have a good days pouring and you think you made money, other days, you want to quit and forget about the whole process. Luckily, there are more good days than bad days. All said and done if I figure everything that it costs me to operate, I'm better off working at McDonalds. If they raise the pay to $15/ per hour, I'd definitely be better off.
  8. 3 points
    I carved the master for this resin bait 100% by hand out of a block of wood using only simple carving knives and sand paper. It has a triple joint configuration which gives it a very fluid and natural swim at a wide variety of retrieval speeds and cadences. A full set of soft plastic fins adds to its realism and collapses easily out of the way when a predator fish strikes the bait. This black crappie paint scheme was accomplished by using six layered colors of spray paint topped off with a black crappie scale pattern applied by hand with a tooth pick. These patterns alone took a few hours to complete but were well worth the effort. Overall this is my best work yet and I'm excited to see how I can improve. Thanks for looking! Dan
  9. 3 points
    Yeah, I’d rather not see the Devcon-ETEX war start again. My take is that both work well. Maybe ETEX is a little more flexible in cold weather, at least many musky bait builders think so. I’ve tried both and for the bass baits I make, I prefer Devcon for several reasons. It goes on thicker so you need only one coat versus several for ETEX. It hardens faster so you need 45-60 minutes of rotation after application instead of several hours wth ETEX. It is less prone to develop fisheyes than ETEX. I don’t think the end product is any better than with ETEX but it’s a lot less hassle and faster to use in terms of the process. My gut feeling is that all SLOW cure epoxies, including glue epoxies like Devcon , decoupage epoxies like ETEX, or rod thread epoxies like Flexcoat produce topcoats that are very durable, glossy, and waterproof. I say choose one, learn the best application techniques for that one, and never look back.
  10. 2 points
    Congratulations to the winners of the 2019 Coolest Lure Contest! Below are the winners of this year's contest. I will update this post sometime tomorrow with links to each winner's lure photo. 2019 Coolest Lure Contest Winners Best Custom Painted Hardbait 1 st - Supreme Bluegill – @mdojet 2 nd - Custom Painted Wakebait - @Cliffs Lures 3 rd - 3D Gill - @Big Bass Man Best Homemade Hardbait 1 st - Hitchhiker 80 – @Badaboom 2 nd - Z Pike – @MazLures 3 rd – Curly Tail Hardbait – @madtownlures Best Wire Bait 1 st – ½ oz. Swingtail Spinnerbait – @Lunkerlunchbaits 2 nd – Custom 1/2oz.Bladed Jig – @smallmouthchaser 3 rd – Custom Frog Buzzbait - @carpslayer556 Best Soft Bait 1 st - 3.25" Power Finesse Craw - @zachary muhleman 2 nd – Kraken Knight.jpg - @Randall Koop 3 rd - 4" Goby – @foxbites Best Fly 1 st – Scorpion Fly – @Leonsebiatan 2 nd - Deer hair duckling - @Deer hair duckling 3 rd - Hand Tied Custom Streamer – @Bassmankam Best Custom Rod or Reel 1 st - Handmade 9’ 5wt fast action fly rod @DrakeFC 2 nd - Custom Fly Rod.jpg - @Brian7394 3 rd - Stand Up Rod Thread Wrap – @Javabones
  11. 2 points
    Just some word of advice, yes making , pouring your own baits can be rewarding and alot of fun. Saftey is so important. So don't forget to use common sense. Make sure your mentally all there. Prior to getting started.Take your time dont rush it! Take precautions! if inside or outside have plenty of ventilation use respirators, gloves, goggles. Protect your eyes there all you have. Don't ever pour your baits around animals or let young children help. Make sure your working on a very steady area or work space.Never work around flammable liquids, gasses or any materials that can ignite . Don't joke around As there can always be potential for an accident waiting to happen. Fumes and temp of heated plastic can be toxic, and can cause serious burns ,water or any moisture should not come in contact with hot plastic. Especially when pouring lead. Dont make a big mistake. Always protect yourself the time that you spent doing things in a safer way will save you from the hazards, accidents and problems that can happen as a result from being careless , and expensive medical bills, or from causing a fire as a result of not taking the time to think about what I should of done before not after.
  12. 2 points
    I weigh my plaster molds on a gram scale. When the mold stops losing weight in the drying process then the mold is 'dry'. From personal experimentation; PoP loses weight at a constant rate, there is no gradual slowing down of the weight loss, so it is very easy to determine the dry point. I mention this because over drying in the oven can make the mold powdery. A cracked open oven works well, but the ideal rapid method is a warm box with fan circulation. I used 3x 100W incandescent (filament) bulbs as the heat source. If you make a lot of molds, this simple wood construction oven is worth building. Dave
  13. 2 points
    The blades you're referring to are they spinnerbait blades or blades used for a chatterbait type of blade? If they are the chatterbait type blades those are easy to put on. I have one solution for you. Open the split ring enough to get the blade hole started at the end of the split ring about an 1/8". Once you have it started, do not use the split ring pliers to keep opening the split ring. Use the pliers to maneuver the split ring around the blade. One other thing when putting on blades on split rings, it is easier to put the blades with the blade parallel to the ring and not perpendicular to the split ring. By doing it this way, you are not stretching the split ring throughout the whole travel of the blade you are trying to get on. Does this make sense?
  14. 2 points
    Map gas is too hot, propane is much better for this. I don't think it is too much heat though, the issue is how you are putting the colors on, you have to think about how the powder is going to spray. For example, on a bait that I'm doing that say has a white belly with a red throat patch, pearl sides and a black back I will do the colors in a certain order. First the white belly, then the red throat patch and that is because I may get overspray onto the pearl. Next I do the pearl body and finally the black back, but for the back I won't spray directly on top but maybe 5 degrees off center, it is very little. I do that so I get a little overspray onto what I call the shoulders of the bait, this area is lighter in color to the back and gives a nice transition over to the lighter pearl color.
  15. 2 points
    Good to hear, and welcome!! There are some serious brainiacs here should you ever get stuck.
  16. 2 points
    I bought my wife a cricut for Christmas years ago and now use it more than her... lol... I make stick on stencils for my crawdad patterns. I just use shelf liner, cheap and works well. I have also cut some non-stick stencils out of acetate. The trickiest part is drawing the pattern and getting the sizing right. But once you get one you have it forever and it repeats the same any time you need them.
  17. 2 points
    Fishboy gave you the easiest way to do it. You can also do the thing Jig Man alluded to in putting the keeper in and closing the mold and striking it with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet. I will say that even cranking the mold closed in a vise you may still need to take a Dremel with an engraving bit and just run it through the indent of the wire keeper. The reason for that is because the mold may still need to be squeezed really tight for the mold to close completely so just barely run the bit through the indent in the mold.
  18. 2 points
    X2 Some say smack it with a hammer. I don't I say the above.
  19. 2 points
    Heat the mold up, place the wire keeper where to want it in the mold, carefully close the mold so it doesn’t move on you, put it in a vice and crank it down. Easiest and quickest mod you can do to a mold.
  20. 2 points
    After cutting tubes with a blade block and a mallet for the last couple years. I talked to a buddy of mine who owns a machine shop and he hooked me up. Only thing I had to pay for out of pocket was the press and blade block.
  21. 2 points
    VodkaMan, this is my first post but i have been scouring the hardbait forums for quitesome time now and I greatly appreciate all the effort you put into the information you share with us all here! I have like so many others here grown very addicted to building and painting crankbait's and jerkbait's! Thanks to you and this forum I have been able to build some pretty successful lures and when I am experimenting with new ideas and can't quite figure something out I can reference these forums and usually always find the answer. Thanks again, Jesse
  22. 2 points
    You can achieve this by using 2-3 coats of KBS and let fully cure.... Then lightly use a fine scotch brite pad to knock off the sheen.
  23. 2 points
    that Basstackle HDX craw can be deadly on a finesse jig on rip rap with a little dot of orange spike it on the end of the claws. It is my go to finesse jig trailer, and that's really all I use it for. And the 702 is a proven fish catcher.
  24. 2 points
    I use stainless steel cotter pins for the line tie in my deep divers but the lip is garolite not lexan. The cotter pins hold fine and never had a problem with the lip.
  25. 2 points
    That worked guys, I had to really lay on the gold to get it right.. thanks
  26. 2 points
  27. 2 points
    You have to anneal the brass before working the shape. Google 'annealing brass', lots of good articles on the subject. The act of working the brass automatically hardens the brass, so you may have to anneal several times while working the shape. Here is a excerpt: ' The process of hardening and annealing brass is exactly the reverse of that used with steel. Brass is hardened when it is heated and allowed to cool slowly ; it is softened or annealed when heated and cooled suddenly. When annealing brass, care should be taken that it is evenly heated throughout and that it is evenly cooled.' Dave
  28. 2 points
    I have started receiving complaints from TU members about business owners, tackle supply retailers, lure parts companies and others spending time here in the forums with a single motive; selling TU members their goods or services. This message serves as notice to everyone that this will STOP here and now! TU is not a venue for ANYONE to spend time hanging out here, trying to sell their products to people. It is a place where people come to learn from other lure makers. Any company who has people here and is actively soliciting TU members, be forewarned that your accounts are in danger of being permanently banned! I don't take this lightly and you shouldn't either! So if you happen to be one of those people who has been becoming more active here for the sole purpose of trying to reel in new customers, put an end to it now. If you want to share your knowledge with others without mentioning your company and without offering to "help" them with their problem by offering to sell them something, then feel free to continue to to participate here. I will be keeping a close eye on this and TU members will also be watching and if they see anything going on that is outside of these guidelines, it will be passed along to me. Once again, accounts of guilty parties will be permanently banned if this continues after today!
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    Amazing information , really annoying anymore to hear or see the pros on T.V. talk about how their lures are designed to hunt only to see the very typical crank bait doing the very predictable wobble . We are all excited to see what you come up with . It's funny how you say it could look " Weird " but we've all seen what this means in the fishing world , weird is the norm . Good Luck Tommy
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    https://www.rotometals.com/lead-ingots-wire/
  35. 2 points
    Hard to pour outside when its 35 degrees and raining all the time. I pour outside when its nicer in the spring but, a couple box fan pulling fumes, window and garage door open for ventilation, space heater to keep it from getting too cold is plenty. Prior to becoming a teacher, I spent 7 years doing QC testing and R&D work for chemical companies. I handled things far nastier than lead and plastic fumes. I pretty well versed in proper ventilation.
  36. 2 points
    ChrisNick78, Living and fishing in Massachusetts, my learning curve casting and painting non lead alloys began in 2012 and I am now quite comfortable with materials and procedures. Over a year ago I responded to another MA angler/lure maker about my experiences casting and painting bismuth/tin alloys. You can read it here: https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/184855-pouring-and-painting-lead-free-jigs/ It's a lengthy post, but if you read it to the end, you'll have the information to get good results right off the bat. Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.
  37. 2 points
    MBY, If I were you i would practice on an old lure. Skeeter
  38. 2 points
    I need to get on the ball and find more. Roger Gruvso (Swede) God rest his sole, sent me a great amount of it years ago. I use it when I'm repairing and reserecting old wood lures for people. The stuff Roger sent me is really good quality I know it won't last forever .....
  39. 2 points
    You're a cruel mon Skinner!
  40. 2 points
    And remember that you can recover the over spray and use it again as long as you collect it.
  41. 2 points
    You will get overspray but there are ways to limit it. The first is air pressure, if your regulator allows it try to get it under 5 psi. The second thing is getting close and using short quick pulses rather than just holding the trigger down. After that it is just practice, and remember, you aren't going to get fine detail like a regular airbrush and paint but you can layer and blend colors really well.
  42. 2 points
    Good luck with it and I think you will get it corrected. Your process seems solid. Likewise, I have never seen this before either. Where do you buy your powder?
  43. 2 points
    I typed a bit too much to try to give you a shopping list of some of the things to try. With all that you said, I don't see anything wrong with your process. I also heat jigs with a Wagner multi -temp heat gun, hold the jig with forceps, I do touch my jigs before painting (not intentionally without gloves), once coated I put them on a rack. Just a question for you. Do you get those voids or pit marks after you paint the jigs or after you bake them? I am going to take a wild guess and say it is the lead. In order to clean the raw lead, I would put them in vinegar. This will eat away any oils, then I would wash them in Dawn with a toothbrush and let them dry thoroughly. With the painted heads, you can strip the powder paint off with paint stripper. Then wash with Dawn like above. I also don't believe it is the powder paint either. Have you had this happen before just curious? You have a PM.
  44. 2 points
    I'm gonna try process of elimination. See if i can narrow it down to exactly whats going on.
  45. 2 points
    Never seen anything like that before. I pretty much use the same set up as you, Wagner heat gun, fluid bed, toaster oven. I use a pair of forceps to clamp on to the hook when I am heating the jig. I don't wear gloves of any kind except when I am pouring my jigs. I touch the jig heads when I am removing the sprue and have never had anything like that happen. I paint a fair amount of jigs white and pearl but I hadn't painted jigs in a couple years, until this year, so my white and pearl are much older than yours. I guarantee its happening to the darker colors too, its just not showing through like it does with white and lighter colors. I would say its an issue with the lead in the jig or something that got on the jig heads surface. Since you didn't pour the heads yourself, that would seem to be the most likely scenario. I wonder if they are using some sort of release agent in their molds and then not cleaning it off the head?
  46. 2 points
    First of all, adding Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) epoxy does not harden the paint it only adds a clear coat to your head. By putting D2T on your jigs, you are just prolonging your paint job awhile longer, until your epoxy wears off and then your paint starts wearing off from having your jigs dragged on the bottom of the lake or over rocks. If you are powder painting your jigs, baking them in a toaster oven hardens the paint. Applying D2T to a jig that has 2D or 3D eyes definitely keeps the eye from falling off. If you don't have eyes on your jig no need to epoxy the heads unless you want to. Finally, I would not dip the jigs in D2T, you will waste too much epoxy. Since D2T is self leveling, I just take a small paint brush and brush on the epoxy after the eyes are on, and then I stand the jig with the head up , to keep the epoxy from forming tear drops and sagging. You do not need a lot of epoxy to cover a jig. Thinner is better, but make sure you cover everything.
  47. 2 points
    Based on your picture, it is pretty rare that the black nickle finish is coming off onto your jig, because you have missing paint on the front of the head. Since, I didn't cast these jigs. I can tell you what could possibly be a problem. #1. Getting any oil or or grease on the head. Make sure when you start to paint your heads, that you do not touch the heads. I use latex gloves when I polish my jigs and a new pair when I paint them. #2. It looks like there is missing paint in certain places. If you pour your jigs and you get small voids in the heads, these voids will not fill leaving paint missing in these areas. #3. It also could be bad powder. How old is it? Do you keep it closed when not in use? Does it only happen to white? Try a new batch of white powder, if it solves your problem, throw your old white powder away. #4. Are you using clean lead. Maybe lead contaminated from zinc. This is just a guess. Whom do you buy lead from? #5. Strip the paint from this jig, thoroughly look at the raw jig and re-paint with white to see if it happens again. #6. What is your heat source when you heat the raw jig. If you are using a candle, find another source. Soot or oil emitted from a candle can sometimes cause paint issues. I have a million questions, however I would look at some of the ones posted above. If you want to send me a raw jig, I can paint it with my white to see if I have the same problem. I can then give you my opinion. Good Luck. BTW welcome to TU.
  48. 2 points
    If you are having problems with different colors of powder, I wouldn’t think it was the powder. If it was just one color, maybe the powder. What are the condition of your jigs before you put the powder on? Are they freshly cast with bright shiny lead or have they been around awhile and oxidized?
  49. 2 points
    I also would not cook indoors, as said above the fumes are not good for you and depending on what plastic you got this sycamore flat out stink! get yourself a forced air heater. I got a 60k btu Master branded propane model from tractor supply and it works great, I pour in my garage with the door and window open and the 60k on 1 or 2 (out of 3) keeps me nice and toasty, as well as making a nice way to heat up you molds while your plastic is cooking, just hold the mold in front of the heater for 30 seconds or so and it’s good to go!
  50. 2 points
    Swampman , Take a look at the table below
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