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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
  2. 3 points
    Cheap is never good and good is never cheap...
  3. 3 points
    I own the first set of Basstackle Twinjectors ever made and still have them. They are tanks and built well. I have a video from 2008 that I used then in and to this day have never had an issue. Look me up and see how they have evolved to what you see now. Franksrooty2 is my YouTube name. Just a fair warning There’s no beer or drums I am doing this to show how I use the Twinjector. Not entertaining just teaching.
  4. 3 points
    I use one of two ways, depending whether the bait is one part or jointed. For one part I use papertrick, shown below. First, I trace the bait to a peace of paper and cut it out. Then I fold it in half, find the balancing point and press my pen through. Then I mark the point to my bait. Easy way to find center of gravity for one part bait. For jointed baits, I always find the CoG for each segments. I could use this paper trick to find the center but then there's an weight distribution problems... So I use this method below instead. I'll take an rubber band and twist a small wire on to it. You can also use fishing line. I'll loop that rubber band on the segment of my bait and start adding weights to that wire. I can change the distribution of the weights by moving the rubber band to front or back, or adding a second one, like shown in pics below. Weight in front of the CoG. Weight behind the CoG. Almost perfect weight distribution. Then I mark these spots, drive holes and add these weights.
  5. 2 points
    Excellent. It seems that you have the right type of mind that can deal with my engineering approach. Great work with the test pieces, we may be able to use them. BUT it would be much better if you weighed the Fillite rather than measuring volume. But we can deal with both methods. There is a lot of measuring and recording, so to make things a lot easier, and to possibly help members with similar problems in the future, I am building a spreadsheet which will totally remove all the thinking, but I will back this up with explanations of what is going on. Like with other 'stuff' that I have done, this will be available to everyone. I have spent an hour or so on the project, but the vodka is kicking in, so I will need another day or two to complete the exercise. The reason why weighing the Fillite is better; is for accuracy. Volume includes a lot of air space which corrupts the results. This is my kind of project, for me this is fun Dave
  6. 2 points
    You certainly are not making a fool of yourself. Always remember, there are no dumb questions. You may feel like you have failed with this project so far, but what you don’t realize is that you have amassed a lot of experience AND an enormous amount of physical data that can be put to good use. As long as you haven’t thrown away the castings that you have made so far, together we can calculate what is required regarding the glass beads, to make your lure work for the next attempt. The only tool that you require to fix all your problems is a gram scale. If you have a gram scale, then we can either do this by PM or do it here on this thread, it is up to you. It may well be that you need to go for a lighter resin, but regardless, the engineering techniques that I can talk you through are the same. I promise nothing more difficult than add, subtract, multiply and divide, and writing information down for future use. Dave
  7. 2 points
    I have poured 1,000's of Poisontail heads with ECL3886BP hooks. These heads are super stable. I think more than the herring head. I think you will like the results of your goals. You just cant "Over Blade" the baits. There will be a blade size to jig weight ratio that will need to be figured out. You wont be able to run a #4 willow on the 1/8 oz head etc.
  8. 2 points
    One of our members recently posted this. Contact Jeff @ Top Shelf Tackle, He has just finalized everything and is the new distributor of Calhoun's plastic.
  9. 2 points
    Every Friday night when the bar closes in every town in America.
  10. 2 points
    I hate to always be the wet blanket when it comes to screw wire vs thru wire, but in my opinion, if you are making a premium lure for muskies or pike, it should always be thru wire. Screw eyes are plenty strong when new, but after fishing with a lure for a year or two, almost no amount of finish will be able to withstand rocks and fish. If there is any moisture ingress or if the threads 'crack' loose from the glue that's holding the screw, it can pull out. Sorry, it just bugs me seeing musky lures that go for 100+$ dollars, and they have screw in hardware. This is the result. A lost lure and possibly a dead fish. This was from a big pike that crushed the lure boat side. Set the hook and out came the large screw eye. Hopefully the fish chucked the lure. This is from a 'well made' well known lure manufacturer (I won't name names or anything). This is the second time that it has happened to me, so I can only imagine with all the people fishing, how many times this may happen. This would not happen with thru wire. I'm tough on equipment, I fish a lot, and if there is a weakness, musky fishermen tend to find it. I'm headed out this weekend, freezing temps, and lakes icing up to go bash some other lures around on the Canadian shield hoping for another hog.
  11. 2 points
    Nice tubes. The squid is killer!
  12. 2 points
    If you will slide a thin piece of hard plastic under your baits that you have laid out to cure you can bag them by sliding the baits and thin plastic the baits are now laying on in the mouth of your bag without disturbing the baits much. You will need to lubricate your thin plastic, what ever you use, so it will slide easily under your baits. I use worm oil. I think most guys do. I also use a spatchula and have several with different widths. In the home goods department at Wally World you can find thin plastic cutting surface you can trim to fit your bags. I have thought about using these but my spatchula has a handle.
  13. 2 points
    Wasting your time with a patent attorney, unless you got really deep pockets... I think its pretty self educating if it has a patent, you can't copy it legally. Steve parks will have your balls hanging on his clothes line if you knock the strike king stuff.
  14. 2 points
    I like cedar for it's buoyancy, and natural water/rot resistant properties. I'm not exactly sure what kind of cedar they grow in California but i'm sure it will do. However, for carving fine details, it can be frustrating. The grain that is there is much harder than the wood between the grain if that makes any sense. So I can make for a difficult process to carve details. I prefer bass wood if I want to add any fine details, that stuff carves like a block of butter, it is amazing.
  15. 2 points
    I use western red cedar mostly. I will use white cedar if I can get it as well. I have a friend that operates a sawmill, and he saves me cutoffs of western red cedar that have no knots and relatively straight grain. If I need really consistent straight clear pieces, I will go and actually buy a 2x8 of clear straight grain cedar from Windsor plywood. I don't like doing that because it gets pretty pricey per foot.
  16. 2 points
    It will be like that till it gets used a bit. Loosen the top knobs a little and also the top of the injector tubes. This will help it break in and loosen up. After awhile it will be just fine. Try and not tighten those part to much they don’t need it and will ensure a long life of your injectors.
  17. 2 points
    I just posted two prop wake baits in the Hard Baits Gallery. The bluegill has already caught fish. I'm going to take the Ayu/golden shiner out for a swim this week. Fingers crossed!
  18. 2 points
    Yes another vote for the 6 oz. Way back when it was new I was a fan of starting with the 3 oz just because it was smaller. There’s still a learning curve but I think the biggest challenge is keeping the plastic the same temp or at least 10 deg from each other. When starting out it good to ask and know the reason for price differences. Just so you know it is the same with molds so ask away.
  19. 2 points
    Worth its weight in gold. You will know that when you get it.
  20. 2 points
    One of the first copies I made I foiled and painted and sealed with 2 ton devcon . Water got in and the wood swelled and split the devcon outer coating . The joints really take a beating during casting when the lure hits the water and paint chipping will occur . If you're trolling the bait like Mr. Cole there is less of a chance of this happening . The way to seal the wood to prevent it soaking up water is to mix up mineral spirits and linseed oil and soak the lure blank overnight in this mixture . Take it out the next day and hang it up till dry then prime and paint with oil based paint . The mix ratio is 9 parts mineral spirits to 1 part linseed oil . None of my future attempts ever split so this stuff works . Don't leave linseed oil on a rag or spontaneous combustion can occurs hours later and start a fire . Attached picture is a foiled AC plug copy I made that measures 12" from nose to tail
  21. 2 points
    My advice would be . Get a Bass Tackle injector . Mine are years old and other than having to buy new O rings ,they have took a licking and kept ticking.
  22. 2 points
    I liked lureworks better than any I’ve used personally. Like said if the shipping was cheaper it would be my first choice. I’ve used the calhouns when Leonard sold it & now use baitplastics & like it too.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Godzilla, Most of the guys here who make large wood baits don't use screw eyes. They either run wire all the way through the bait (called "through-wire construction") or the cut 2-4 inches of SS wire, bend it in half, twist it leaving a loop and glue it in hole in place of a screw eye. These methods are both stronger and less expensive than screw eyes. I believe Janns Netcraft carries larger SS Screw eyes. Stephen
  26. 2 points
    Actually doing both achieves the same thing, yes pouring scent into the plastic before pouring the bait does work but you lose some scent due to the heating process, but also using a good plastisizer mixed with the scent as said above will achieve exactly the same thing. The plastisizer is absorbed into the bait all the way to the core of the bait, but of course you lose some scent due to mixing it with plastisizer. Either process you use will hold scent as long as the other but using the cold method, you do have to allow time for the plastisizer to absorb into the bait. Once it is absorbed into the bait, it will not wash off and you are achieving the same thing as if you are adding scent to the hot plastic. It really dosen't matter which process you choose to get the scent into the plastic, as long as the scent is there. It is just a matter of personal preference. I have added scented plastisizer to a bag of baits and the baits actually were dry after 2 or 3 days because they absorbed the plastisizer.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Hi Dave, Firstly thank you for your kind reply, I really appreciate your help & advice. You are right I do feel like I've slightly failed at this stage, I put so much effort into getting the mould & casting looking correct & thought the next stages would be straight forward after following the guidance from YouTube! I have kept the 2 lure casts that I made & have further made 4 little resin test casts from some silicone bun cups, I used a 20g resin mix for each test but with differing amounts of fillite, been a 20% mix, 30% mix, 40% mix & 50% mix, the 20% & 30% mixes sank! The 40% & 50% floated & you could easily see the difference in buoyancy between each cast when in the water. The 40% mix slowly sank after adding 0.62g of lead. The 50% mix slowly sank after adding 1.5g of lead. I have a gram scale & I'm looking forward to learning from your advice. I'm happy for you to help me over PM or on this thread Dave, I'm just happy your here to help out. Thanks again, massively Andy.
  29. 1 point
    Under 12 oz goes first class mail. Over goes flat rate Priority box or evelope.
  30. 1 point
    Medium soft is fine for micro lures and larger swimbaits.
  31. 1 point
    I usually use the padded flat rate envelopes. You can fit more in them that the regular flat rate envelopes or the small flat rate boxes for the same cost.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    hi, new to making baits! im looking for bigger guage screw eyes. cant seem to find any retail store that sells them..i have the 0.092" from lurepartsonline but i want something bigger. will be using it for the joints and line tie. i can use the 0.092" for the hooks. my bait is made out of wood..any help would be appreciated..thanks!
  34. 1 point
    It came yesterday.... Going to have a couple company's squirt some custom baits for me...
  35. 1 point
    Mark you hit the nail on the head, I've done this before many times, especially when shooting the paint mixture with to much thinner, there is not enough pigment in the paint to cover thus leading to your results posted, the to thin mixture seems to pool and create this effect, I think it's on the verge of running but since it's on the top of the lure it has no where to run. Sorry I wish I had a better way to describe it, but it does make for a pretty cool effect. I've often thought I ruined the bait and wanted to wipe it off but went ahead and put the heat gun to it, sometimes the heat gun will make it seperate more, giving it a pourus, texted effect. Please see example, sorry it's not the best because I tried to cover it with pearl mixed into the clear coat, but you should be able to see it well enough. I should add, it happens to me mostly when I use Createx Candy Transparent Black, very rarely will it happen when using an opaque paint. Thanks Rich
  36. 1 point
    And the 6 inch shown in this pic
  37. 1 point
    Your baits will continue to soak up your scent til you lose them to the bass.
  38. 1 point
    simple. if it looks like a copy, look on the commercial baits package for a patent number and study up.
  39. 1 point
    Looks like a nice jig. Is that one of the out of production heads or something you created? Having 0 artistic ability, I can imagine what one would look like if I did it. Can of worms probably.
  40. 1 point
    We have used silicone molds encased in an aluminum housing/box and it works very well . Very very intricate creatures can be molded. The aluminum box “frame” was purchased from a desktop hard plastic injection molder company LNS Technologies .. The silicone to make the mold came from smooth on
  41. 1 point
    Contact Jeff @ Top Shelf Tackle, He has just finalized everything and is the new distributor of Calhoun's plastic.
  42. 1 point
    Look up worlds worst fishing on YouTube he’s done several vids on this exact thing. Nate.
  43. 1 point
    I made a cleaning rod from a 3/4 (I think) inch dowel rod. Took a drill and made a slot in one end ( think of a cleaning jag for a rifle) with multiple holes.smoothed my slot out with a file. I have a rag stuck in it. I never change it. When I change colors or quit shooting I take my nozzle off, have some worm oil in a spray bottle and shoot some in the tube. Take my cleaning rod and stick it in the tube, rotate it, run it back and forth. Get all the plastic that’s sticking to the wall of the injector out and I’m done. Silky smooth for my next session or next color. Shake your jag out over a trash can and it’s ready for the next cleaning.
  44. 1 point
    The attached picture is an original 9" AC Plug Minnow with Allan Cole signature. They sold to Optimum Baits. The top 2 are 7" AC Minnows made by Optimum that I have stripped for repaint. I have been making baits similar to these but with more of a verticle profile like a golden shiner that we have here in the delta. Optimum Baits does not make them anymore. They are productive baits that I want in my tackle box. I may be the responsible person that caused Mark to consider making a bait out of anything except PVC but he has heard the wood knock of my baits. Wood is more trouble but it fishes well and there is nothing like that wood knock like knocking on your front door to help call fish up. I made the first ones out of Bass wood, then I made two out of Pine, and now one of Balsa. I am always trying to get a good seal on the baits which is crucial for longevity and helps with the knock. I have been using Penetrating Epoxy which is a two part 2:1 Epoxy which is used to penetrate and stabilize wood that has lost strength due to dry rot or other failures. I can't find it in their store anymore. Tap Plastics told me it is just a longer cure 2 part epoxy that is also thinner. The key to my application is to heat the wood with my heat gun and keep applying this epoxy. This expands the air out of the end grain so that it sucks the epoxy in and gives me durability for my knock at the hinge. Previously I applied the epoxy then heated the lure and it really foams up. I like the idea of boiled linseed oil overnight soak but it still seems like I need to heat the wood up first or the air is just trapped in the wood end grain. Wood is like a bunch of tiny straws. However we do it, we still only really increase the amount of sealer at the end grain, I don't think any more sealer gets into the side and does not increase the durability of the sides of the "straws" because it doesn't soak in. The only way you can get more durability on the sides is with more coats for more thickness. Most of us who have been here awhile remember the video of the wood lure in sealer in a vacuum chamber. Flip the vacuum pump on and it looks like is blows up with all the air coming out of the wood end grain. You can get enough sealer sucked into the wood to make it sink like this. That is not what I am trying to do. Just warm up the wood enough that you get it a little ways into the end grain. By the way, I use a fan on low to keep fumes moving off from my work station. I am always wondering how either Allan Cole or Mike Shaw sealed their baits because they got them fairly durable. The last bait I made, the Balsa one, is probably at least half again more active waking than the Basswood ones but it is more difficult to make durable. (All wood baits will fail) The penetrating epoxy works well, but with the really light weight soft woods I have to put multiple coats of UV Cure Polyester Resin to help keep the hooks from penetrating the top coat. I would be interested to hear others opinions on this. Barry
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I've had great service from them as well, good prices on paints when you can buy larger sizes...
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    You dont want salt in outer shell as it wont be very clear.
  49. 1 point
    All depends on where and what I am fishing for. Between pike and lake trout I can use anything depth wise. Size the lures I make mare between 4-8inch usually
  50. 1 point
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