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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I have watched some videos using plastic, heat guns, and vacuums to melt plastic over a blank to make homemade stencils. So far, I haven't been super successful at that technique. I went searching for another and I know I posted another video/topic to use Play-Doh to help conceal eyes during the painting process. Well this week I took it further and decided to test the waters on molding the entire bait and letting it dry after cutting. And to my surprise, it was remarkable. There are a few properties of Play-Doh that make perfect and not perfect at the same time, but with a couple tricks I have learned from you guys I have sealed each stencil in super glue which adds a ton of durability to each stencil. I wanted to share in hopes to give you all at tip and trick that could be beneficial to you all if you are looking to make a certain pattern and speed up painting times without needing a ton of tape or a 3D printer. Hope this helps!
  2. 3 points
    To me it looks like every one of those baits tore at the seam between colors. If that is the case I'd suspect a "cold bond" between the two different colors.... meaning your plastic was too cold when you made the baits and didn't "fuse" together. I'll pour a color into a mold - close it them shoot another color. If i wait too long to shoot it - it will bond - but you can pull the sections apart if you really try. Hope this makes sense... might wanna just run a few more baits and make sure you keep the plastic hot. Also - that head probably isn't helping you being so wide at the top. I did some testing on stretch ratio for some bait I made with an insert... 3-1 seemed to be a good average without tearing the baits..... how big in diameter is the core our using for the tubes? If its less than 1/3 the "diameter" of that head you might need a bigger core. J.
  3. 3 points
    From what I have read a Hopkins spoon balanced heavier at the line tie end to give it a little wiggle on the drop when fished vertically . I have fired those 3/4 oz Hopkins spoons a long way at breaking fish and I don't ever remember a problem with them fouling in flight . I maybe wrong here but I have always assumed the distinct wiggle of a Kastmaster was due to the tail heavy attitude on retrieve and balance of the bait . I guess the way to know for sure would be to swap the hook on a Kastmaster to the thin end and see if it tumbles in flight and then see if the action on retrieve is impacted ?
  4. 2 points
    By the way Hookup Baits tubes are more than 1/8" thick. https://www.hookupbaits.com/
  5. 2 points
    How does the inside diameter of your tube compare what your trying to match? Looking at wall thickness of those tubes it seems to be overkill for the application your doing. I suspect that if you started with a larger diameter mandrel you would have more room on the inside of the tube, a thinner wall, and ergo less stress on the plastic when you insert the jig head. Thats my SWAG. (Scinetific Wild @$$ Guess).
  6. 2 points
    When I got the the Midwest finesse head, I was very unhappy. To this day it is not the the best mold I like to pour, but it is what it is. You have to adapt if you want to pour the really small size. :Like mentioned above harder lead and cured powder paint. On this mold I pour straight hard lead, however this is not for everyone. You have to pour the lead really hot. By doing this you will get really good pours and the hook seems to hold better. Also I noticed the hotter the lead, the mold has a tendency to get really hot and tends to deform a bit. So if you are only pouring a hundred no problem, but if you pour 500 at a crack or more, it is a good idea to let the mold cool. Anyways, good luck
  7. 2 points
    Helps to put a zip lock bag over the jar before you put on the lid on. Won't be so hard to open.
  8. 2 points
    No problem. I like to lay my baits out because I want to remelt my sprues and use up all the plastic I can during that run. Cuts down on how much remelt plastic I have under my bench. I use industrial cookie sheets they sale at the restaurant supply. Very large and they won’t fit in a regular oven. For the small straight worms you can even stack them without any problems. Small baits too, if you want. I have seen others talk about flat spots on larger baits caused by stacking. I guess a weight thing but I don’t shoot many large baits.
  9. 2 points
    Do not use a union! Take a 3" flat cap ABS or PVC doesn't matter and drill a hole near the bottom to fit an aquarium valve. Hot glue in an aquarium valve. The hot glue makes it easier to replace a bad valve later on. Take a section of pipe for your cup and put in a knock out test caps. Knock out the center and discard. Remove the remaining ring of the test cap and set aside. Place your membrane over the section of pipe and replace the ring. Trim excess membrane material. Use a second knock out test cap for a cover. Make as many cups as you want for cheap. Change/replace membranes in seconds. I rarely ever clean a cup. Store my paint in them as well. Want a 2" cup? Put in a 3x2 reducer fitting and make a 2" cup. Same for 1.5" Change sizes in seconds. Change cups in seconds.
  10. 2 points
    I think the term cure is somewhat conflated with cool and or rest. Plastisol can take up to 24 hours to reach its final hardness after shooting. The amount harder it gets is very subtle and isn't even noticeable by most people. I think it is during this time frame that if the baits are bent up the compression set is more severe than if they are bent up after a few days of resting. Whether you hang them or lay them out straight i think letting them rest overnight before storing them is wise if you are concerned about compression set. If you not concerned them you can fish the bait as soon as it is cool to the touch.
  11. 2 points
    I don't think you asked this yet, but I keep a pile of used baits, that I poured, in a worm proof container and let them dry for a couple days. I cut them up into small pieces and then reuse them by color along with some fresh plastic. Make sure you get the whole mix to 350 so that the fresh plastic has completely changed state. NEVER use wet baits! I only re-use my own baits and never remelt any store bought baits.
  12. 2 points
    Just shot baits if tossed right into bag helter skelter style will set and kink just like you bagged them. Most of us don’t want a kinked, bent baits so we lay them out or some hang by sprue to let cure. I try to give my baits a couple weeks before bagging. Not sure how long everyone else is curing or if there’s a “standard“.
  13. 2 points
    Washington finally opened fishing on May 5th. I traveled to my lake house and fished 6 days straight. My life is whole again
  14. 2 points
    OK got it you have both flat sides oriented parallel to one another . The kastmaster actually has a slight taper between both flats from the hook end and thinning out running up to the line tie end . (maybe 10 deg ballpark) Since you mentioned kastmasters I thought that's what you were going for . I think I remember seeing some big saltwater jigging spoons that are similar to yours in design though .
  15. 2 points
    I’m not sure if this will work on your four pot setup or not. After I got a bellyful of changing this media and that media for filters and each paint being different, I went searching for simple vibrator I could use on my fluid bed and found this one. It’s real cheap but does a great job of fluidizing every paint that I have. Once you vibrate and add air, everything just works so much better. Also, I only use one cheap filter and rarely change it. Several layers of newsprint. So all you do is remove the legs off this little unit and tie wrap it to your fluid bed. Has three levels of vibration and kicks pretty hard. Runs off AA batteries, IIRC. I have to put my fluid bed on a hand towel or rag to keep it from vibrating off my bench. I guarantee you this will cut down on your frustrations. https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Robotic-Cordless-Stirrer-Chocolate/dp/B08579GPLL/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=Pot+stirrer&qid=1589243221&sr=8-10
  16. 2 points
    I've had good luck with the ones painted with uv paint, but they don't paint the larger sizes with uv paint.
  17. 2 points
    I had ever used etex until recently, though I have been top coating my lures with an epoxy for years. A far superior product in my opinion is Kleer Koat by US composites. Its a tabletop epoxy . You get a half a gallon for 23 bucks. It is much easier to work with than eatex. Etex pooled on my lures. Problem i did not have with Kleer Kote. Over the years the harder did turn yellow. but the resin did not. I am still using that resin with eaten harder now. The etex resin is too thin. I like to to heat my lure and my resin before coating . with heat this product will dry in about 3 hours and your fishing.
  18. 2 points
    I didn't know about it at first, but i've used baitjunkys, lureworks & baitplastics & i just ordered another 5 gallon batch of baitplastics plastic. The only thing i don't like is the jug it comes in & would rather it have the regular old small gallon jug mouth. The bag in the box from lureworks is great too in my opinion.
  19. 2 points
    Nice lure. I think it comes down to personal preference. I have used Etex and D2T. As Mark said, Etex is more flexible than D2T. My lures cleared with Etex get punctured by teeth more frequently than D2T. I have had small pickerel under 20” puncture Etex. Some of my Etex lures look like they have been hit by miniature machine gun fire. On the positive, I have not had a chunk of Etex break off yet. Any pieces that have broken off have been very small, usually because of multiple punctures in close proximity. D2T seems more resistant to toothy fish damage and hook rash. But when it does break, the damage is worse than what happens to Etex. Wood swelling is more likely to crack D2T than Etex. I once had a 1” x 1” piece of D2T break off from a pike bite. I have had another chunk of D2T the size of a nickel break off. The damage to D2T can be catastrophic when a rock or bridge piling darts in front of your lure mid-cast. Small pike can be just as deadly to lures as the large ones. The small ones don’t have the power of the big ones. But, the small ones make up for it with their finer teeth. I have only lost clear coat and paint. I have not had any of the lure body (the wood) break off. I use either superglue or wood hardener for sealer to prevent damage to the lure body itself. Nothing is bullet proof. Also, it looks like you are getting some hook point nicks around the rear treble which may have cause the damage when the lure landed. You can increase your lure’s chance of survival by going to a T-type treble like Owner ST-35 trebles. Decoy used to make T trebles. I don't know if the Decoy trebles are still made. You can also make your own T trebles by bending a treble with a softer wire. Be careful doing this as it can be dangerous, use gloves, pliers, and safety glasses. Owner ST-36 trebles are too stiff to try to bend into a T. I will save you from leaning that mistake the hard way.
  20. 2 points
    I just put a couple of pictures of my latest bait attempt. It failed as a wake bait, but I really like it as a barely sub-surface bait with a lot of action and noise.
  21. 2 points
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZLRK36/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_To4REbYJ2M82Z This is the one I use. I have two of them. Like I said before It's the "Whisper 30-60" and is made by a company called "Tetra". Sells for about $20 at Walmart or other big box stores. Unlike your airbrush compressor this one is made to run continuously for years without problems. I don't know how long an airbrush compressor can run continuously without issues? The aquarium pump is also way quieter than my airbrush compressor. If I was building a 4"x 4" fluid bed i'd try the aquarium pump first. But that's just my opinion. I do know that I wasn't happy when my first airbrush compressor seized up as they're a lot more than $20.
  22. 2 points
    I run an cheap Walmart Tetra Whisper 30/60 aquarium pump. It has dual ports and cost is ~$20. The 30/60 indicates what size aquarium it is good for. So don't get the smallest one. Mine will run 2 fluid beds that are 2" diameter by 12" tall no problem. I think the aquarium pump might surprise you. Also how do you propose to hook your compressor to the fluid bed? Aquarium fittings and hose are cheap especially compared with airbrush hose and fittings.
  23. 2 points
    There is some real talent around that is for sure. Sadly most fishermen have no idea at what exists outside of the mass produced lures Now if only we can have more of theses guys join into the forum and share some secrets
  24. 2 points
    @Brian7394 Thanks for the suggestion. In reality, without seeing video of each lure, it is extremely difficult to judge this aspect of any lure without actually fishing with it or having it available to test personally. With lots of years of experience, though, looking for certain qualities and design features of a lure, most of this can be judged without ever seeing a lure in action. So, in reality, this is already being taken into consideration. It was part of what I personally used to judge some of the baits. And I know that the people who helped me do the judging also looked at this. Thanks again.
  25. 2 points
    Tell your boy if he comes and picks them up he can have my entry’s congrats to the winners. I am seeing a trend in hard baits the judges seem to like swimbaits and jointed wake baits
  26. 2 points
    Hello, My name is Gonzalo, I'm from Argentina and this is my first post, I hope don't break any rule with my post. This is my first rat lure...walk the dog stile with one knocker rattling. Is made in 2 parts of Poplar wood and harden with epoxi adhesive dilute in thinner and apply by paintbrush I hope you like it!!
  27. 2 points
    I have found that the trick to using the fan trick is to be quite close to the door, garage door ect., and placing the fan so that the back of the fan is near the lead or soft plastic ect and the blowing side is aimed out the door, not at the lead/plastic ect. . So trying to be more clear about this, what you want is the airflow going into the back of the fan to be near the fumes and then have it blown out of the garage by the front of the fan. So you are exhausting the fumes. Then you can adjust the force by adjusting the speed of the fan and how close it is to the offending fumes. Works for me. Cheers.
  28. 2 points
    I think you would be fine. A lot of guys do it in their garage with a fan behind them blowing outside with door open. Workbench with a ventilation system works well too. Might want to hang on to the ole wallet though. It’s addictive.
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    Hahaha Clearly you haven't spoke to my three ex wives, or any of my kids. I will say I've made a lot of mistakes (in lure making) and that, along with all the knowledge shared here on TU, has taught me a lot. "Too soon old, too late smart" is truly the case for me.
  31. 1 point
    Tape it exactly where you want it, close tightly And hit it with a hammer on both sides. I’ve done it many times for hooks. yes you can use JB WELD to close/repair areas. Done this too and it’s lasted years
  32. 1 point
    When I modify a mold I put the hook where I want it, hold it in place with a piece of masking tape, put the mold in a vice and squeeze it as hard as i can. Sometimes a Dremel is not even needed. I block all unused sections with RTV silicone.
  33. 1 point
    Not a bad idea and like you said it’s cheap
  34. 1 point
    I've fished the d bomb & they catch fish for sure. I fish two different beaver style baits that will hang with the d bomb every time for me & that's the beaver style creature mold from Curt at enforcer or the shz that delmart sold that lurecraft sells now. It may just be a confidence thing, but i'm an extreme stickler about the tails on this type bait because of how i fish them & when fishing them off of deep ledges& drops off of bluffs i want a bait that gets a good vertical fall & these do it best for me. I absolutely love this type of bait.
  35. 1 point
    I started making lures several months ago. I have a website with all the stuff I acquired and how I got started. I also spent 30 yrs teaching jr. high science. I kinda know this age. That being said, in your situation this is what I'd do. Get some pine or some balsa wood. Cut the wood to size - Hopefully you have a power or small hand saw that can cut a piece of wood down to rectangular lure size. Carve it to shape - Get a decent razor knife. Like the ones in woodworking not the plastic ones from the dollar store. Supervision... dangerous but pretty much unavoidable. Sand the shape and smooth it - Get some course 80 grit and some 120 or so grit sand paper to take down the wood after the carving is done. I work with white pine and it sands down very easily. Drill weight hole and eyeloop holes - I'll assume you have a drill. You can purchase some steel ball bearings for a small amount. It will suffice instead of a lead pot and lead. If you have some small pieces of metal around it would work too. Fill weight holes and glue in eyeloops - You'll need some epoxy. The 5 or 30 minute stuff in the double syringe from a big box store will work. (gluing in line/hook ties and covering the weight holes). A little sanding sealer varnish sort of substance to brush on and seal the wood. (superglue can be used too) Clearcoat - The epoxy will work for that too and is not expensive for a few lures. Be sure to get the 'clear' one. It will say on the package. You can buy a rotisserie motor but if you put the epoxy on thin and it's the quick dry one, it will set fast and will suffice without rotating it. The eyes you seem to have. And a small amount of polycarbonate plastic from box store if you make a bill. ----------------------------------- All the stuff above is the small dollar amount total. The airbrush and what it needs is the expensive item. Unless you want to just make monotone or dual tone lures like you made above then an airbrush is really needed. An inexpensive one will work but it will be frustrating. The iwatas are sort of a standard and about $150. Then there is opaque and transparent airbrush paint. Createx is sort of a standard They come in sets for lower cost. Then it needs a compressor. A dedicated airbrush compressor is fine, or with an adjustable regulator valve to cut it down to 0-40 psi, a construction one if you have one around. It's what I use. Hooks, split rings, eyeloops Take a look at some lure making vids, Marling baits is a good one, Bejan lures is another among many possibilities. Or you can look at one of mine. They use some more sophisticated (expensive) equipment sometimes but you will see those places where you can get by without it. After making a few and if you think you'll stick with it you can upgrade to better tools over time. My take on it... hope it helps. I miss teaching....so, don't get me going.
  36. 1 point
    Yes, Alberta Mind you what Canada Post ships could be the issue, my cross border stuff was handled by UPS. I did by some from Canadian Vendors I forget off hand how they were shipped , One place ended up being close to 100$/Gallon the other was more reasonable but it was the do-it plastic so mehl.
  37. 1 point
    I am in Canada I regularly have resin, paint, and cleaner shipped to me I also know I can have plastisol shipped because I have inquired on the cost from one supplier.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Too many coats too soon... The product needs time to gas off. Not sure why you want 6 coats. 2 coats, 2hrs apart works fine. Using a brush can also promote bubbles over dipping.
  40. 1 point
    Looks like this sickness has hit me again. I justordered the angling ai 4" heart throb grub mold & the 3.5 skirt mold. Looks like the smallmouth will be eating hula grubs & anythoing else i can attach the skirt to this summer at night.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    I use 3 coats dipping it. I do use an airbrush to blow out the build up on the bottom eye and put a hanger in the eye for it to drip off of. I wait about 2 hours between coats. In the winter it takes much longer for it to cure.
  43. 1 point
    I have made prototypes of lead heads and made molds using Durhams water putty . Its kind of like Plaster of paris but withstand the heat of molten lead better but breaks down little by little with each bait you cast . You can make a head of roughly the size and shape you want poured in lead using a 2 part Durham mold and then put features in by filing the lead (such as gills for example or eye sockets ) before making the master vulcanized mold after you are happy with your design . One word of caution about the Durhams water putty though . You have to make sure the mold halves are completely dry before attempting to pour hot lead into them or molten lead will shoot back at you thru the sprue hold .
  44. 1 point
    Congrats to 1st place!
  45. 1 point
    Closest thing I can think of from your description would be a spinnerbait made in the 1970's called the "Tarantula " made by "Bass Buster" lure co owned by TV angler Virgil Ward . I know this probably isn't what you were looking for but it might jog somebody's memory .
  46. 1 point
    Love the paint job!!! Tell us how you got the hair effect. If you don't want to, I understand.
  47. 1 point
    I have a TON of mistakes / old pours / stuff I bought and didn't use/like.... I use it for testing new molds and once a year I melt is all down in my presto and shoot a bunch stuff in the "brownish" color I get from it.... I'll add some colorant every now and then - but you'd need a ton to make it something that isn't the brown pumpkin color it is naturally. J.
  48. 1 point
    I see what you’re saying ddl about the paint.....but if you take those heads, put eyes on them and topcoat with d2t or KBS, add skirt, the musky won’t be near as critical as our human eye. Prolly hammer the stuffings out of them.
  49. 1 point
    I've done the 1/2 price replacement program from LEE and they didn't fix them they sent me 2 brand new pots!! and it only took about a week. I'm the weird one who always cleans out my pot after every use, I've been doing it for 31 years and it's what I prefer. One thing I've found and I haven't seen anyone say anything about it, is the pour rod inside the LEE pot. I have an old beat up pocket knife and I scraped the rod like I was whittling on a stick. You wouldn't believe how much crap came off the bottom of it and it looked clean. I also do the wire up the spout but I use an old bass jig with the barb cut off and bent into an L shape. There are still old wheel weights out there - I've sat by my mechanics wheel machine and gone through buckets of wheel weights and sorted them. Don't bother anymore as I've gotten through all of them, but got lucky last year when my water tank sprang a big leak. I know the guys from the plumbers shop and when they showed up I was just finishing up pouring. They asked if I'd trade them some jigs - they wanted 1/8th and 1/4th ballheads. Had them bagged up in the house and for 250 of each size I got 500+ lbs. of old pure lead water pipe they had torn out of an old camp!!!!!! Took me over a month to get it all cleaned up and fluxed out.
  50. 1 point
    Don't start pouring your own plastics. It's addictive and will drain your wallet. Just like fishing
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