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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Here are a couple of simple homemade tools that are working out well for me and may be of some help to you too. Photos were necessary for clarity. The first two pictures show a simple homemade screweye driver for use in your drill chuck. If you have any access to scrap pieces of stainless steel or steel tubing, the first picture shows a short length of SS tubing that will not fit over the screw eye. By using vise to squeeze the end oblong, it will easily fit the screw eye. The screw eye will not go too far into the tool either because it does not fit into the unflattened tubing. However, if desired, you can turn the tubing 90 degrees and make another squeeze immediately above the first squeeze to stop the screw from going too far into the tubing. Just make sure the unflattened tubing will fit into your drill chuck. The next four pictures are for a tool I needed to devise to help me fit up the hardware for Prop Baits I have been making lately. LPO has all the hardware I need for Prop Baits similar to the one in the background of one of the pictures. Where I had trouble is I could not hold the cup washers in order to drill out the center hole as needed. For example, when using the large cup washer for the wood chopper or other large prop blade, I use the cup washers for a bearing surface of the prop. Even though the cup washer is drilled out to 0.095", it is difficult to fit over the 0.092" size screw eye because even though the screw eye is made of 0.092" size stock, the threads are raised on the stock and the diameter of the screw eye at the threads is actually over 0.100". Therefore I needed to find some way of holding the cup washer in order to drill out the center. It was even more needed for the smaller cup washers for smaller prop baits. I found a small steel hinge measuring only 1" long by about 1/2" wide and drilled for small No.6 flat head countersink screws for a flush screw head once installed. For the large cup washers, the countersink for the No. 6 screws was perfect to put the cup washer in. Once you close the hinge on the cup washer, a light squeeze with small needle nose vise grips will hold the cup washer securely and keep it from rotating while you drill out the center hole. For the smaller cup washers, I had to drill a pilot hole larger that what I would drill the center out to but much smaller than the base of the cup washer. Drill this out with the hinge closed together for perfect alignment. Then open up the hinge and on one size, use a counter sink or simply a larger bit to provide the countersink. Once you place the cup washer in the countersink and close the hinge, the countersink keeps the cup washer centered up perfectly and holds it while you drill out the center as needed. One picture shows the hinge open with two different sizes of cup washers installed before folding the hinge over to clamp the cup washers. Of course you can't do both these sizes at the same time, one at a time please. It was easier to do than explain but I think with the pictures it will be selp explainatory, hope this help some of you. Barrybait
  2. 2 points
    I totally agree on the airbrush restorer. I thought I did a good job keeping my brush clean, until I soaked it overnight in the restorer. There was a bunch of little particles of paint that came out. It really does wonders.
  3. 2 points
    I actually ended up just getting a cheap bandsaw off Amazon and use it to cut the shape and lip slot out. It's worked good so far. If I ever try to start producing a lot of lures at a time I'll probably just make a mold of the bait and cast it in resin.
  4. 2 points
    Check out this drying wheel for 48 lures at a time
  5. 2 points
    Just make sure your threads on the jar and lid are clean from any drips..I add a shot of Bloxygen just to be safe..have kept it in Mason jars for over 18 months and still going..Nate
  6. 2 points
    To me its your choice I do both, more twist wire epoxy in than screw in or wire through. have no problems. Wayne
  7. 2 points
    Welcome aboard! Those baits look great. You're miles ahead of where I was when I first started!
  8. 2 points
    I found that putting a groove in the "forehead" of the bait, from nose to line tie, with a round file seemed to enhance the swimming action. I think it probably increases the turbulence (thank you Vodkaman) of the water as it passes over the bait's nose.
  9. 2 points
    I can't see the pic, but everyone using epoxy struggles when starting out it seems. Stick with it, I love the finish and toughness of epoxy! Lots of great tips here..
  10. 2 points
    For my earliest prototypes I used copper sheet snipped into strips and glued on to the bottom of the balsa bodies. I was living in Sweden at the time and could not find any lead in the big stores. I was living in an apartment with limited cooking facilities and a VERY sensitive fire alarm hooked up directly to the fire brigade, so heating lead was out of the question. My one attempt at cooking sausages did not go well and was not enough to go round the crew of the two fire engines that was called out. Also they were the most expensive sausages of all time as I was billed some $2000 for the service. Dave
  11. 2 points
    Hi @Nim713,, Lots of good suggestions in the comments above. For me just practicing with the airbrush gave me the best results. Each time you mess something up, and you will mess something up, makes you think harder about it the next time around and forces you to get better. One thing I found very helpful is to paint a bait with whatever base colors you choose, then allow it to dry fully. Then lay a piece of tracing paper over the bait and draw out whatever lines/gills/etc. you want exactly where you want them to be on the bait using a pencil with a thick point. Once you draw the outlines flip the tracing paper over and lay it onto a piece of card stock, index card, or some other rather thick paper, and then draw over the lines you made. This will transfer the lead/graphite you did on the lure body onto the thicker paper. Then just remove the tracing paper, go over the lines again to make them more pronounced, cut the shapes out with an exact knife and bam! You have a stencil that will line up perfectly on your bait. The first image I did using the tracing paper method and the second image I did using a mix of the tracing paper method and free hand with the airbrush.
  12. 2 points
    I’ve never seen one for the whole bait. I just use a hot knife from Harbor Freight to weld the pieces together.
  13. 1 point
    I was given 70# of printers lead. I use it straight for harder lead or mix plumbers lead for a softer result. I have never used tin.
  14. 1 point
    @azsouth @mark poulson @ravenlures @TootsMalone @KennyP @Vodkaman Thank you all for the kind words and for your extremely valuable insight and assistance. This community and its members are just freaking awesome. Tight lines!
  15. 1 point
    I recently had this problem with an Iwata airbrush that I had been using for two years with no troubles. I ordered some new supplies on line and one thing that was included was a cleaning kit. I ended up damaging my needle seat with one of the brushes supplies in my new cleaning kit, which caused the exact problem that you are describing. You mention in your post that you have been using pipe cleaners. The wire in the pipe cleaner can cause the same issue. Hope you figured it out. - Steve
  16. 1 point
    keep going..............$6500 - $12,000 for production molds
  17. 1 point
    From what i’ve gathered on my own similar journey, you want the body to be buoyant and then add ballast to the belly to get it to sink at the desired rate. This keeps the bait upright, and the mass towards the pivot point on the body allowing parts like the tail to move more freely. personally, i use poplar. Its plenty buoyant and doesn't take too much lead to sink. Also are you melting lead, or drilling weight holes and inserting solid weights. If solid weights, you could always go with a denser metal like tungsten so you don't have to use as much. I'm no expert by any means so please correct me if I'm wrong. Good luck in your search! Love the baits btw!
  18. 1 point
    my complaint with the essentials series has nothing to do with the finish of the baits, at least the 2 I have simply don't shoot as well as any of the cnc molds I have. the 3" cnc ripper (single cavity which im not a fan of either!) is damn near impossible to get dents in, temp doesn't effect it too much,. shoot it slow, shoot it fast it comes out perfect. the es 3" ripper, I have played with that mold a ton, very tough for me to get a dent free run out of that mold.
  19. 1 point
    If carving details I would be using linden especially if you are planning on weighting anyway.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks but i am actually looking for the transparent type
  21. 1 point
    PDF Tutorial Attached Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes The following Tutorial is for those of us who want to create very realistic finishes with a minimum of hassle. This is not to say it is the only or best way to achieve that goal, but I found it to be a very viable alternative to decals, and much less costly. Truth be told, I also find it easier to do. In addition, the supplies are more readily available. With very little practice, anyone can get wonderful results. I developed this technique after realizing that it is not practical to print on foil. Doing so, is a tribute to Murphy Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf
  22. 1 point
    My all time favorite hard bait by far is the Rapala original floater... ive made several versions in the past, and they all worked and caught plenty of fish, but all had minute flaws... i spent more time testing and getting this design right......... they are 4" long, 3/8" wide carved from PVC trim board with #4 VMC hooks and 1 gram of ballast weight spread along the belly with #5 lead pellets from a small game shot shell, 0.6 grams in front of the hook hanger 0.4 grams behind..... the action is perfect with a ton of "Y"/roll giving off a great flash
  23. 1 point
    Just for an experiment and small quantity needed, why couldn’t you just trim those appendages off some baits to try out the experiment. Then if you are sure you want to modify, you could use some high temp RTV. I know guys have a lot of success with it filling in aluminum molds pouring lead which is about twice the heat of plastisol.
  24. 1 point
    Maybe your needle is stuck back, I would give it a good cleaning take it apart and put in restorer over night and finish cleaning it. That's what I would do. Wayne
  25. 1 point
    These are the whisker wires https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Twin-Spin-Frame
  26. 1 point
    Try the wire baits forum.
  27. 1 point
    Never even opened the DVD but its there if you want to watch it. Alumilite has a sale going right now on the hard bait kit. until the end of the day today.
  28. 1 point
    Dude! Way to soak up information and put it to use making some really sweet baits! Those look great man!
  29. 1 point
    Thanks man! Couldn’t have made it this far without everyone’s input on this forum.
  30. 1 point
    This is a somewhat related video about finding the center of buoyancy (not my video). It's based on a topwater lure, but the principles would be the same. Check out his other videos, very informative youtube channel.
  31. 1 point
    That's a Senko, so lotsa salt
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    I ordered the regular (not “mini”) version of the rip Shad yesterday, I’m impressed with the first 2 molds I got from them (3” mini rip and 2.75” mayhem ned bug), took advantage of the Black Friday sale they have going at the moment and got the original, which is similar to the Doit ripper
  34. 1 point
    The white ones are the mini rip from fat guys, the green pumpkin/white is a 2.75” rage swimmer for size reference
  35. 1 point
    So, I recently got a 3” swimbait mold from fat guys fishing (they have a website but this mold isn’t on it yet, contact them through Facebook) and it’s killer, great action, shoots perfect and not too bad on price, 10 cavity top inject was 189. They also make this in a 2” version that comes in 10 cavity as well, not sure the price on the 2” though.
  36. 1 point
    This was one of my builds, I placed the weight mostly before and some behind belly hook of the wire harness . Used the XPS finesse weights so they slide on the wire form and add a little super glue to hold in place while I pour resin, Wiper smacker !!
  37. 1 point
    I have found by using a small fan over the jigs as the weedguards dry, you will not get the white powdery residue, or you can use D2T.
  38. 1 point
    Ditch the epoxy and try KBS diamond clear...
  39. 1 point
    Carver GLX - the predator expects to see eyes were they are expected to be. Large false eyes give the impression of a larger prey, probably beyond the capability of the bird. The false eyes work as I have plenty of images of Lycaenidae hairstreaks with their rear ends bitten off because the bird went for the wrong end of the butterfly. More examples of the importance of eyes; when you get the attention of your dog, he/she looks into your eyes, not your mouth were the noise is coming from or your hands which are directing. Same thing with cats, horses, cows and so on. If a lure is representing a fish, the predator expects to see eyes. The predator does not expect to see eyes on a worm, neither does the worm move like a fish. I am not saying that eyes are essential, only that they can make a difference. In my opinion; movement and vibration is most important, then eyes, and a distant third would be paint. Dave
  40. 1 point
    UV cured finish is UV polyester resin, a one part finish. Epoxy is a two part finish that mixes a resin with a hardener and cures via a chemical reaction. In any case, I’d dip the lure and let it drip back into the container for some time before curing starts. If you are curing under a black light or under sunlight, I’d run the lure on a lure turner. As long as the lures have not collected excessive dust or dirt, no special prep is needed. You can Google Alumi-UV to see an Alumilite video of application.
  41. 1 point
    It would be hard to "Key in" on those.... Unless they were RED!
  42. 1 point
    Whether they match the color scheme or not, I like using eyes that stand out from the rest of the bait. Similarly to why you use red eyes, I think the eyes play a big part in helping fish hone in and target the head of the bait. Size of the eyes in proportion to the lure body can also play a factor.
  43. 1 point
    Would/could/should work. Uv resins are designed to cure at specific wavelengths of UV light and your resin will PROBABLY cure with your black light bulbs. I’d test it to be sure. UV polyester resin is a great topcoat solution if you don’t mind the added cost and if you are using a resin that cures to a hard clear shell.
  44. 1 point
    Angling a I has a mold similar to a gyb spider grub . You still have to attach the skirt and grub. I have a few by others but this one is the best I’ve come across.
  45. 1 point
    btsmolds.com has a 4 cavity mold & a 2 cavity skirt mold with or without a center hole in the skirt. May be the best off the shelf option at a pretty good price. Baitjunkys.com or bob at cnc molds & stuff would be well worth checking out if you want a custom made to your specs.Josh at anglingai makes outstanding molds too.
  46. 1 point
    I got some to try. Thank You
  47. 1 point
    Epoxy cures by a molecular chemical reaction between the resin and hardener. To get a good result you have to measure the epoxy accurately according to the manufacturer’s instructions and mix it thoroughly. If the proportions are off, excess resin or hardener will not bond and the finish will be tacky. If you have not mixed thoroughly, tacky finish again. Don’t guess at the volumes required. MEASURE them. It might help to let us know what brand and type of epoxy you are trying to use. If your finish is tacky after 12 hrs whatever the brand, you have a problem. It can usually be fixed by a second coat of properly measured and mixed epoxy.
  48. 1 point
    Yup. That's it. Or here is the 2". Great deal for a ten cavity that shoots perfect and performs well. http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/paddle-tail-2-bait-mold-10-cavity/
  49. 1 point
    Chris does a great job. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCScpvPNtZxs7gC_lSHXDUcw
  50. 1 point
    Here is a poplar glide bait that I carved out of poplar. The finish is photo foil with a top coat of etex. The lure weighs 1.75oz and is 4 inches long. The lure is a fast sinking glide bait. Also, I caught a schoolie striped bass on it today!
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