Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/02/2011 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    PDF Tutorial Attached Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes The following Tutorial is for those of us who want to create very realistic finishes with a minimum of hassle. This is not to say it is the only or best way to achieve that goal, but I found it to be a very viable alternative to decals, and much less costly. Truth be told, I also find it easier to do. In addition, the supplies are more readily available. With very little practice, anyone can get wonderful results. I developed this technique after realizing that it is not practical to print on foil. Doing so, is a tribute to Murphy Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf Photo Finishing Foil and Faux Finishes.pdf
  2. 5 points
    A few tips that are strictly from a hand pour perspective: 1) Flakes: I rarely use them but when I do I adhere to the idea of 'less is best'. This helps with issues such as, arching, even flake dispersal and less stirring. I've never had a fish stick it's head up out of the water and tell me the watermelon was perfect but they didn't bite because I didn't have enough flake or wrong color flake. You can always add but you can't subtract and don't get in the habit of adding flakes in reheats, you'll become reliant on the flakes. If you have to in order to achieve the finished bait know that you are because you've curled what you originally put in. The result is usually a "cat turd" rolled in flakes. 2) I use 900W micros on full power, higher wattage micros I have to turn down the power in order to use the same heating sequences. 3) I always stir from the center out in order to disperse the heat as quickly and evenly as possible. 4) Decide how your goal in a finished bait is to be accomplished color wise, meaning either directly with colorant or the influence of flakes. 5) From the start don't do what I did and believe that you're going to remember recipes...you can't. Date each recipe & photo it so you can correspond. 6) Strive for consistency..after all it doesn't serve you to make the immaculate conception if you can't duplicate it. A) Don't question your recipe unless you've changed a colorant supplier, b) don't trust artificial lighting, take the time to walk outside and see it in natural light, it's where the bait is going to be used. 7) "If a fish can see these bubbles it already has a hook in it's mouth", a philosophy I accepted. I wear 4 power glasses to pour as a result I probably see more bubbles than the average bear. I was terribly anal about bubbles when I first started pouring because I was comparing what I made to a machine made. 8 Never forget your humanity, you're not a machine which is why you've chosen to make your own baits to begin with. Individualism, creation & ownership are an extension of your mind, you will have failures and learn from them...you will never be perfect and there's always a next time. 9) No where is it written that you cannot make something, anything is possible until you prove to yourself it isn't. 10) Color is what you say it is, no two people see color alike and is irrelevant because the color only matters to a finned creature with the brain the size of a walnut.
  3. 5 points
    I make big muskie paddletails. My advice: - make a basswood model of your soft tail - lightly coat it with Krylon acrylic spray - make the top side or back flat on your paddletail so you can do an open pour vs injected bait - make a silicon mold of your tail - forget the plaster - this should cost less than $50 and it’s so easy. Your baits will look professional. YouTube is your friend. - note: if you don’t have a vacuum chamber to use when making you mold - no worries - but when pouring your actual baits you will have to pour a few warm up tails and then the baits will come out glass smooth. - wear a respirator mask 3M 6006 is a great filter to use
  4. 5 points
    Interesting topic. I agree with Super Ron that there is still more room for innovation in the realm of painting than most builders think there is. Firetiger was not a pattern in my father's time. Today it can be deadly pretty much across the globe. Think about that. A simple pattern that simply didn't exist until about 35 years ago. As to innovation in building....I am of the opinion that the multi-jointed swim bait is a true innovation and if I had to choose, I'd choose Hopkins as the inventor...and he was a member of this board at the time. I will never forget seeing a video clip of his prototype swimming through the water. I showed the video to my wife and she got this inquisitive look on her face and said, "That's not a lure, that's a fish, right?" But that type of innovation, true ground-breaking innovation in building, doesn't come along with any regularity what so ever. It is instead usually stumbled upon, and then capitalized upon. I posted on this board, the first ever foiled bait with mesh beneath the foiling....believe it or not. It created quite a stir. I think it was was around the year 2005, but I can't remember for sure...and no one on this board or any other had seen anything like. I even had a guy who was a musky guide and taxidermist contact me via email and offer me a guided musky trip if I'd show him how I did it. But.....here are the interesting facts surrounding that foiling method: 1. It was not my idea. It was the brainchild of a TU member named Husky. He had thought of the idea, but just didn't have the patience to execute it properly and asked me to try it. I pointed out that it wash HIS idea when I posted the pictures. 2. It was truly ground-breaking in the US at the time. I gave step by step details as to how to do it and today it is a commonplace method. 3. But, as Paul Harvey used to say, here's the rest of the story....It was a method that had been used by builders overseas LONG before Husky came up with the idea and I executed it, so to speak, and presented it as "new." I later found out that builders from other countries had been placing netting under foil for many years. How did I find that out? I have a blog called "Fired up the airbrush..." in the Tackle Making forum of Ohiogamefishing.com that I started in about 2005...on that blog, I eventually posted the work of builders from all over the country and the world and that is how it was brought to my attention. It was already happening...we in America simply just didn't know it. The Internet was still in its infancy, basically, and the language barrier precluded message boards from "sharing" with overseas builders. Today, of course, there are Facebook "groups" and translation is available at the push of a button. And I have to tell you that some of the work I see from overseas is nothing shy of amazing. I thoroughly enjoy looking at their work, even after looking at baits since the nineties when I began to build. This board has a long history and much of it is not known to many of its members. There are builders who cut their teeth here and quietly moved on. Their innovation and work is now commonly accepted as routine, but it is still THEIR work. There are too many names to mention, but some very impressive work was incubated and shared right here on TU. Today's newer builders can come out of the gate building and painting at a level that took us years to achieve because of the incredible amount of information that is so readily available today and wasn't available at all just 20 years ago. Innovation is still occurring. There is still more to be done. But it is usually something that you can't force, it just happens and usually over time. And it's why I am still a builder.
  5. 5 points
    Thin CA (superglue) makes a good sealer, and only takes minutes before you can float test. Spread it with your finger and use acetone for clean-up. Don't float test without sealing, the body will soak up some water which will come back to bite you later on; that extra moisture that you have locked in will swell the bait if you leave it in the sun for ten minutes and possibly split the topcoat. Dave
  6. 5 points
    You got the right answers but I can help a little bit with the heat. If you are having trouble with getting the heat just right, try doing what you are doing now only dip and remove faster, speed can be your friend. I find a lot of people new to powder painting will dip and pause a second or two and that is where you end up with too much paint. So the next time painting heat your jig and dip and remove a little faster and see how it goes. This is something that takes getting use to and you get a few different answers because what works for one person might not work well for you but if you keep at it you'll develop your own way.
  7. 5 points
    A bandsaw, a drill press, and a belt sander, for stationary power tools. Cut your profile with the bandsaw, rough sand the profile with the belt sander, add a centerline all around the profile, and then use the bandsaw again to cut your lip slot, and the drill press to drill your belly hook hanger hole. Sanding blocks with different grits, starting at 80 to rough shape down to 120 for shape tuning. For PVC, poplar and pine, I do some rounding over on the belt sander, but for balsa I do all rounding over by hand. 120 to 180 grit sheet sandpaper for final smoothing, 400 grit wet or dry for smoothing your sealer. Exacto knives or carving knives for details. A cordless drill to install your hardware. Water intrusion is deadly for wooden baits. Once you have them final sanded, seal your wooden baits before you add the lips and hardware with runny super glue, including the lip slot and hardware holes. Then use the 400 grit to knock off any grain that is locked by the super glue. Once the lip and hardware are installed, seal again with epoxy and wet sand before you paint. Use a good top coat to finish your baits, because it is the only protection you paint jobs will have if you use water based paints. I hope this helps. Have fun!
  8. 5 points
    Sounds interesting John. So long as I don't have to learn to knit little sweaters to put on cranks. Ben
  9. 5 points
    I use Power Draw (thanks for telling me about it BobP) to draw my lips and then print them out. There are probably other free software drawing programs available for download as well. I had never used any kind of drawing software before and it was simple enough to figure out how to use the software to draw lip shapes. It's a free download that will draw and print your lip shapes in a 1 to 1 ratio. This means that whatever size you draw the lip that's the size it will be when you print it. Once printed out the templates can then be affixed to your lip material with spray adhesive. Then it's just a matter of cutting them out by whatever means are suitable to you. One good thing about doing your lips this way is that the file that is created when you draw your lip shape can then be stored on your computer for future use and they will be an exact copy each and every time. Ben
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    I would like to add a positive note to this discussion. The really great thing about the business or hobby of lure making is that the possibilities are endless. From my experience and what I’ve read, there will never come a day when every possible lure design has been made and sold. The variables are far too great. For example, there is freshwater, saltwater and brackish water. Then there is pond fishing, lake fishing, river fishing, creeks, streams, fishing on the beach, in from boats, way out in the ocean and I’m sure I haven’t covered them all. Add on top of that; there are different lures for different types of fish and there are so many types of lures, such as, topwater, crankbaits, soft baits, jigs of all kinds and don’t forget all of the color combination and unique designs, such as what kaimon did with sea shells. I know the above is not new information to anyone on this site, but my point is this; it does not matter the competition. The lure making business does not belong to big manufacturers. There are thousands of home based lure making businesses and room for many, many more. It could easily rivals that of jewelry makers. Like the jewelry making business, lure making is a form of art. So, if you are making lures as a business or a hobby, it is an exciting endeavor. Lure making is not just about catching fish, it is about catching the eye of the fisherman and I have to say, there are a lot of eye catching creative artist that frequent this site. I mean there was an entry in the contest where a guy made a small pike like lure out of foam insulation and it was beautiful. I believe there is good reason to be optimistic about what we are doing and I am looking forward to learning from the many artist on this site. Michael
  12. 5 points
    I usually hit both parts of my D2T with my hair dryer in cold weather, so they become more runny and easier to squeeze out and mix. The resin is always thicker than the hardener, at least for me. An associated question. Is there an epoxy that will prevent me from dropping a freshly coated lure onto my garage's carpet strip? Hahaha
  13. 5 points
    Oh yes.....the significant other. I could go on FOREVER about that! Here's a good "don't" that pretty much says it all for the newbies....... Don't EVER invade her space or use ANY of her tools!
  14. 4 points
    My opinions on painting plastic lure blanks are well documented. I was even reprimanded by the TU management for upsetting paying advertisers. Reprimand is a bit strong, more of a 'please stop it' Strangely enough, people who attempt to copy famous, successful lures do not bother me in the slightest. I know that there is a lot more to copying a lure than shape alone. Most will fail but they will learn something about lures on the journey. In fact, I would recommend trying to copy a favourite lure in the learning process as many experienced builders also suggest. Those who can copy a commercial successfully have all the skills to produce their own masterpieces. I often wonder why they bother, but I guess it is a challenge. I was even considering writing a thread dedicated to reverse engineering a lure without destructive examination even though I have never done it before. I never view the gallery. I am not really interested in the current trends. I do not want my design ideas to be affected by what others are doing. Basically, body shape is a covering over the internal structure although it does have some functionality. Because I am not commercially competing I see no reason for secrets. I even received a couple of angry PMs for revealing design secrets that they had been cashing in on for years. However they need not worry, many read the articles but very few try the ideas out. The few that do are only producing lures for personal use. I probably got a bit off subject with this post, but there you go, I am rambling Dave
  15. 4 points
    Thank you !!! I am honored to be in this group of excellent artist It was very fun and I enjoyed looking at all the custom work congrats to all who placed and everyone who entered !!!
  16. 4 points
    We make the eye with a hot glue gun. We made a mold with the glue sticks and rtv so we just poured the color of the eye we wanted into the stick, dot the mold with the glue gun where we wanted the eye and then shot the color. I think lure craft sells the mold also.
  17. 4 points
    I agree 100% with Good Fishing. The key to success is finding a special little niche in the market that sets your business apart from all the others. You will more than likely have to spend hundreds of hours of work and a lot of $ before you ever see a profit. But as the old saying goes, ( If it was easy, everyone would do it). Stay focused on your ultimate business goal and above all else, treat each business downturn as a learning experience and make adjustments to correct the problem. Lastly, Listen to your customers, because they are actually the Bosses of your business.
  18. 4 points
    You bring up a good point Bob. The longer you use specific tools the more accomplished you become with them. Being familiar with the tools you use is a very important part of any builders skills. Ben
  19. 4 points
    Can't believe it's still going. Look .......I've been screwed before and I know how you all feel. You end up with no money and no product, and you want to TELL. THE. WORLD. The problem is TU is not the place for that. Picking and choosing which comments to keep and dump usually creates even more drama. I'm sorry some of you don't feel that way. As a moderator, it's not my job to help you all decide which supplier you purchase from. It's my job to keep some kind of peace on here. That can be difficult at times. I'm truly hoping that Bear comes through for you all, whether it be product or refund. Now let's move on
  20. 4 points
    Of course you can but should you? In my limited experience with Alumite, it is not very buoyant because it's hard to add a lot of microspheres to it and get it to mold properly. So you need to be careful in ballasting the lure not to get too much lead installed. Pouring hot lead into a small ballast hole is not the easiest thing to do. And you would need to carefully drill the hole to make sure it will hold the correct amount of ballast and that you have filled it to the proper level. I think it's easier and more accurate to just glue a measured ballast weight into a crankbait. There is also the question of what effect if any hot lead has on the Alumite. I have no idea but unless there is no melting or charring, you will not get a securely installed ballast weight. You'll find out how secure it is the first time you slap the lure on the water. If it can, the ballast weight will break the finish and shoot out the bottom of the crankbait. Don't ask me how I know this!
  21. 4 points
    Fluid beds are pretty easy. I make mine using a flat cap for the base and use knock out test caps to hold in my membrane. Put the test cap in your fluid bed and knock out the center with a hammer and discard. Remove and save the remaining ring. Place your membrane over the end of the cup and replace the ring. You should have a nice tight membrane that is easily replaced. I use Tyvek from post office envelopes or Vacuum cleaner bag material for my membranes.
  22. 4 points
    Welcome to TU. However, Thank You for a 1st post that benefits no-one. I and many, many others here over the years have gone out of our way to help,teach and share ideas so, members can make a better jigs. There is nothing so secret that cannot be shared, unless you have a patent on something. Your jigs look very nice, however many guys here have fantastic looking jigs as well and have helped others when asked. Happy New Year.
  23. 4 points
    Stick with the iwata gravity fed Elipse HP CS or the BS I like the BS it holds plenty of paint for several baits at a time, what I like is I have a better view with the smaller cup on the BS but it's preference when it comes down to it.
  24. 4 points
    I was just stapling mine to the screen. No wonder i never got any likes.
  25. 4 points
    Never even look at it just put it in and start. One of my microwaves must have some type of over heating sensor because after 3 quarts I need to add at least 30 seconds to the total. Or it just gets to the gel state. Here is my process(I use injectasol which is pourasol that is not vacumned) Mix 5 gallon bucket with paint mixer on a drill Transfer it to the vacumn container a quart at a time Start vacumn with a gallon of raw plastic When it gets to 29.4hg it will grow and the bubbles will burst Scoop out a quart into a 4 cup Pyrex Set it in the microwave and enter my time( in this case I will put it in my faster one and enter 7 min 10 seconds) Get things ready like molds and injectors Preheat my griddle Get my Sprue cups on the griddle Get the colorant measured in a medecine cup or a syringe By that time the plastic is done but to hot to inject Set it on the griddle and mix the colorant and flake Check the temp if it is 320 ish I will start shooting If it is to hot I will take it off the griddle and set it on the counter to cool a bit Check again and shoot if the temp is right In the summer my griddle is set at 350 and keeps my plastic at about 300 all the time Winter it is at 400 and it has trouble keeping it at a shootable temp(need to put it back into the microwave for a reheat) This way I never reheat the big Pyrex (unless it is winter) just reheat the sprues and add them back in. The plastic does get a skin on the top but I take that off and reheat it with the sprues Reheating sprues can be tricky as the time will vary because it is already hot. Just heat slow and check often.
  26. 4 points
    The forums are for learning and instructional posts. You can post as many images as necessary to get the information across. But, if those images are used to gain admiration on the bait or advertising under the guise of discussing a process, then the thread rightly gets closed. There is no limit to instructional images. If you want to show your lures then post in the gallery, that is what it is there for. TU has a reputation as being one of the most informative lure building sites on the internet. This is largely because you don't have to wade through the plethora of 'look at me' threads to get to the information. Membership numbers are irrelevant. The people wanting to build lures can access all the information without having to join. Once they have built a few and feel that they have something to say, then they join. Many never join and that is OK too. Some join from the outset and will probably ask the most basic of questions and that too is most definitely allowed and should be encouraged. Bring on the repeat questions, dig up the old threads, go ahead and ask which is the best top coat. Each time these golden oldies is addressed there is a chance of new information, new ideas, new perspectives discussed and our collective knowledge advances a step. I have joined and participated on a dozen or more lure sites, but I have removed them all from my tab folders and now only use TU because in my opinion it is the best. A few years back, the moderators relaxed on the image rules and very soon the forums were plagued by 'look at me' threads. The moderators do a great job of keeping the forums clear of non-learning threads, advertising and spam. Long may it continue. Dave
  27. 4 points
    This is Kim at LureCraft. Are you still having issues with our brush hog mold? If so, please call in and we will be happy to assist you and see what the issue is. Sometimes it is how hot/cold you have the plastic or how fast you inject it into the mold, or how cold/warm the mold is. We are here to help!
  28. 4 points
    I have been unable to fish for the last week due to trigger finger surgery on my left pinky. It's the spot where the rod's trigger hits my off hand. Figures! Too much fishing, I guess. I've run out of jigs and spinnerbaits to reskirt, and my boat has been reorganized twice. I even resorted my skirt boxes, and my tackle making materials. I'm going stir crazy! My home waters, the CA Delta, are muddy and cold right now. I've been throwing black/blue jigs and trailers, with the tips of the trailers dipped in chart. dip and glo. So yesterday I returned to the idea of putting glow powder in some trailers, to make them more visible in the muddy water. I added 1 tblsp. of green glow powder to 1 cup of med. plastic, with a few drops of chart. color and some .035 chart. glitter, and poured some ES swimbaits, ES grubs, and ES beavers. I played around after the first batch, adding blue color to see if I could get the best of both worlds, blue trailers that also glow. It worked. The first batch glowed the brightest (it was also the most translucent), and, as I added more more blue, the glow diminished, but was still there after I'd gotten down to a deeper blue. I also added 2 tblsp. of sea salt, for flavor, but that didn't seem to diminish the glow. I'll fish them as soon as my trigger finger surgery heals (one more week and the stitches come out), and report back. Here's the glo powder I used: https://www.glonation.com/glow-in-the-dark-products/neutral-glow-powders.html I see they also offer a blue and dark blue powder, so those may be my next experiment.
  29. 4 points
    I use this in my small Lee pots. Would work great for mixing in a glass cup.
  30. 4 points
    I never count on the adhesive on the back of the eye. I always use 1 drop of super glue gel on the back of every eye before brushing on the topcoat.
  31. 4 points
    All good points gentlemen, but one thing that hasn't been mentioned is just how well any given lure catches fish. Bill Lewis has probably sold more baits than anyone in the lure building business and there was a point in time where he was giving baits away out of the back of his old car. If a bait catches fish word of mouth goes a long way. You'd be hard pressed to find a bass fisherman that doesn't own at least a few of his lures. By the way, that's where the name of the Rattletrap came from. His car was such a junker that he called it "the rattletrap". Ben
  32. 4 points
    The argument is that Createx paints are stiffer and will crack under bending and even reduce bending. BUT, if you are not heat setting the paint and successfully applying a clear dip and the bait flexes well, then why not. If it works for you then go for it. The life of a soft bait is not intended to be more than perhaps a few fish, so I do not see any other issues to stop you. Dave
  33. 4 points
    Are you going to build your own blades like Dieter does?
  34. 4 points
    @kaimon - enough is enough. You've insulted just about everyone here, including those people who volunteered their time to judge the contest. At this point, you've managed to stir the pot here and this is the end of the line for that type of stuff. Consider this a warning and the end of any further posts of that nature. Further antagonistic or abrasive posts will result in the permanent suspension/banning of your account. If that happens, you will no longer be able to use the site. Not being able to access the site would also mean that you could not enter any future contests. Trust me when I say that being banned permanently means permanently. You wouldn't even be able to sign up with a new username. So my suggestion for you at this point would be to back off and settle down and refrain from further badmouthing, insulting, instigating, etc. You have been warned.
  35. 4 points
    Hey guys, Since I don't paint a lot of swimbaits I was looking for a cheap and effective way to hold them while painting and I couldn't justify buying one of the "helping hands" holders that a lot of you use even though they're relatively cheap. I had tried making a couple different holders from heavy wire and was never satisfied with them. The bait would flop around and the joints would move allowing painted surfaces to touch each other. Combine my cheapness with liking to build tools, gadgets, jigs, etc. I came up with the holder shown below. It's made from a wooden coat hanger, a couple eye screws, 2 rubber bands and a couple of "S" hooks bent from the wire I normally use for hangers and ties. The whole thing was made from stuff laying around the house and it works great. You can vary the tension on the rubber bands by wrapping them around the eye screws. There's also an eye screw located under the bait so a short wire "S" hook can be hooked to the belly hanger. The eye screw that holds the "S" hook on the bottom can be placed anywhere along the coat hanger to match whatever size lure your painting. The tension on the "S" hook can also be varied by changing the length of it. This is done so the jointed sections of the swimbait can be aligned parallel to each other. You can hold the holder in your hand or place it in a vice if you need to use both hands for painting. On this particular swimbait I drilled a small hole in the tail to allow an eye screw to be threaded into it so the tension would be applied through the center of the lure. After painting is done a small drop of super glue is all that's needed to repair it. Anyway, just thought I'd share my latest crazy idea in case some of you aren't satisfied with what your using now. Ben
  36. 4 points
    First off, let me clear some things up. A quality large scale production machine will run you somewhere in the neighborhood of $50,000 to $70,000. This piece of equipment has the capabilities of producing 15000-25000 pieces in about 8-10 hours. The cavity count in a mold is just according to the bait. For instance, a straight worm, you may get 60-70 cavities, or a creature bait such as a craw, you may only have 25-35 cavities. The standard production mold is around 30 inches tall. The width depends on the length of the bait. Trout Support is correct in saying that the mold is specifically designed to the injection machine producing the product. Not all machines are the same. It's hard to give an exact cost when it comes to production work without having some information about the particular bait. It's basically based on how many can be produced in an 8 hour period, and the actual weight of the plastic that it takes to fill the mold. Packaging costs will vary, most packers charge per bag of baits at a cost somewhere between .10-.25 per bag. Again this has several variables, it's mainly based on how many packs of baits can be produced per hour. The advantages of having someone else to produce your baits is you have time to do marketing and promoting of product. You don't have employees to worry about as far as production goes. So you basically have time to concentrate on sales. The advantages of producing your own baits are not that great unless you are doing a large amount of baits. Keep in mind when you are running production equipment that most measurements are based on 5 gallons of plastic. You have to have a pretty good knowledge of how plastic flows. Also you have to be pretty mechanically inclined. And you have to have sufficient space for production and storage. Just for a basic setup of 1 machine, you're probably looking at over $100,000 by the time you factor in the machine, the mold or molds, the initial startup material, such as plastic, coloring, flake. Also you're going to have to have a cooling rack, a 7-10 HP air compressor, sufficient electrical capacity to run everything, also sufficient space for scrap storage and you will also need a sufficient cooling system. The starting point for the production of a plastic bait will be to contact a mold maker, no need for a middleman to do any kind of CAD work or drawing, the moldmakers will work directly with you and do this type of work for you. Just remember everyone that you involve in this is another person you're paying. There's really only 2 companies right now producing production molds. Which are Zorn and Basstackle. Mold costs are going to average anywhere from $5,000 to as much as $15,000. It's just according to what all you want in the bait. Keep in mind the mold delegates all aspects of the baits, such as laminates and two colored tails. The machine just basically pushes plastic. I think you can trust these two moldmakers not to reproduce your product for someone else. And they both will be glad to sign legal documents to ensure this. But the bigger companies do have ways around things. So a patent is a must to ensure full protection. Most folks that can't afford to go the patent route make sure that they have sufficient production or inventory so if the bait takes off big, they can meet all demand. This really doesn't protect you from being copied, but it does establish your place in the market, and will build you a loyal customer base. Yamamoto's Senko is a prime example of this. There's a bunch of stick baits on the market, but there are those guys out there that are only going to use Yamamoto's Senko. The bait business is nothing to be taken lightly, it is very very competitive and very cutthroat. Also one thing I forgot to mention, if you do your own production work, you will be responsible for a 10% quarterly Federal Excise tax, but you're paying this tax whether you produce it or whether I produce it, or another injector. And by the way all injection companies have a minimum production run, including me. I've recently had to restructure due to scheduling, so I won't do anything less than a 4 hour (half day) run. All your other injection companies require an 8 hour (full day) run per color. Reason being, if someone comes in in the evening, and sets the equipment up for the next days run, then all the operator does is come to work and produce the product. We are currently the only company I know of that will actually change colors in the middle of the day. Even though this post is long there's still some more details. Feel free to call me and I'll be glad to answer any questions that I can. And I'll even give you names of other injectors besides myself. My contact information is listed on my profile. I hope this helps you have an idea of how the process works.
  37. 4 points
    Floating Trap that I modified and made suspending... (I Hope) LOL Tight Lines all, and Happy Safe Holidays! bb
  38. 4 points
  39. 3 points
    There’s a fine line between vents too small and vents too large. If they are too large, you will get plastic that flows out of them causing little nipples on your baits. Too small and the baits won’t fill. Mold also needs enough of them. So if you are opening up some vents to solve a problem, go slow. Remove a little material and try the mold. Wash, rinse, repeat until it shoots well without the flash....or nipples, if you will.
  40. 3 points
    I paint in the garage with the window open and a big exhaust fan running. Atomized acrylic airbrush paint that doesn't stick on the lure mostly becomes plastic dust. Not something you want to be breathing in large quantities but in and of itself, it's not toxic and a dust mask seems adequate protection to me if you are sensitive to it. Now if we're talking lacquer paint and/or other solvent based coatings, that's a whole other animal that calls for more protection.
  41. 3 points
    Yes you can, I do it all the time. Just make sure when you apply the other colors you do not burn the first one. Low heat and pay attention to what you are doing. Once all your colors are done, gloss over, and bake your jig in the oven to harden it. You will be good to go. Take a look at my avatar there are 6 colors on that jig all powder paint. Also baking your base coat will help stop paint bleed and all of your other colors will be true. Experiment is the key here, but it definitely works.
  42. 3 points
    I tried the glass beads Monte SS recommended.The end of the plunger and quad "O"ring scratched moderately after running 2 cups of the specified plastisol/glass bead mix through. The injector did jam slightly on start-up each time. I can imagine more severe and possibly detrimental scratching if use often. I will not run this through my two color injection system.Years of injecting a custom salt/sand mix caused "O" damage to all injectors and the two color system. The new Polysil plastisol is the clearest and most heat tolerate plastisol I've used to date. That being said, more tests w/ varied media and use of glass beads w/ Polysil is necessary. Placing newly injected baits on a hard service then placing them in a garage where temps reach 95 degrees caused them to bleed a greasy residue. Placing the baits on a porous surface eliminated this as the surface absorbs the slime. Schools still out but time will tell
  43. 3 points
    I use whats called a California Air Tools....It is by far one of the quietest ones I've ever heard and oiless and has leasted me 2 years so far and thousands of baits!....I love it and works in the same room as me without knocking me off my feet from the sound. Been using the Iwata HP-CS since I started....started with what I felt was the best for what I'm doing without skimping. http://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-10020-10-0-Gallon/dp/B00889ZYOW/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1461155816&sr=8-17&keywords=california+air+tools
  44. 3 points
    But before a lure can catch a single fish, it has to catch a fisherman.
  45. 3 points
    Just came across , ......and if I may chime in from across the Great Pond ,......not until last Wednesday or Thursday I had ever heard of Black Friday , ..but then there was an article on a local news site saying as much that sales are expected to increase for so and so many percent on Black Friday , ....off course refering to Germany !!! I mean , ....we do not celebrate Thanksgiving over here , as it is a genuine and pure American tradition , .....every country and every people have their own traditions , bank holidays and celebrations , and that's absolutely fine by me , ....but why the heck do we need a Black Friday over here as well ? And in fact,....it accidentally happened to be , that the missus felt like strolling a Hamburg shopping mall with me(she's never heard of Black Friday before as well) that particular Friday,...and as my eye was sharpened by the news site article , indeed I saw some advert signs there pointing out Black Friday sales ! It's just about pulling extra bucks out of our wallets , not more and not less ! Maybe in future local politicians stuck to the payrolls of commerce and economony would work on establishing Thanksgiving over here as well , as they had already managed to do with Halloween , also a genuine and pure American tradition(as far as I know , established by Irish immigrants). Just 25 years ago , not many people over here were familiar to Halloween , nowadays by early October every local supermaket does sell Halloween accessories of any kind , and also countless other local businesses and branches are jumping on that wagon ! I aggree to Bob's initial post , .......such national traditions should be kept well in terms of their REAL purpose and not fall victim to commerce entirely ,......and , ...in my own opinion , ....not taken to places , where they don't belong to ,.......just for business !!! Just my ,.....couldn't help it , .......best greetings , Dieter
  46. 3 points
    First - you didn't mention what temp you're seeing the yellowing at - if you arent taking the plastic temp everytime you pull it our the micro you'll never be consistent or get consistent results (I know some you you guys can eye ball exactly 320.67 degrees..... but most of us cant - myself included LOL!!) If you're doing opaque baits - isnt' too much of an issue... on clears/tranparents - it's imperative. Buy a small digital thermometer... don't use a IR gun - that only tells you the temp of the surface - not the hot spot at the center of the cup. Agian - check temp every time - it's a pain - but only way I've been able to do clear with my crappy micro. I'd also raise the point of wattage of microwave - but look at it from an amount of plastisol you're cooking.... the smaller the batch your cooking the harder it is to control the heat. You got to remember - the center of that 6oz cup gets alot hotter than the outside portion.... so while the outside might still look good/clear - the hot spot may start to burn and then when you stir it yellows the whole cup. If it were me - I'd shake the crap out of your jug and make sure there is not one spec of anything on the bottom and it's mixed well... let it sit for a couple hours - give it a couple small shakes then try to make something like 16oz of product instead of 6oz. I never make anything less than 8oz to start and I've noticed when I make bigger batches my color is more consistent and its most notable with the clear/smoke colors.... once I get down to reheating 4-5oz things start to yellow very slightly - my guess is it's just hard to keep the heat just right. Once you start getting up to temp - I'd run shorter blasts on the micro and keep stiring like crazy. Sometimes I'm just hitting the micro for no more than 5-10 seconds to get the temp back up form a 270 to 290/300 range on small amounts. As for bad plastic - it's possible - but I'd bet 99% of the time the issue is on our end - not mixing enough, not cooking properly, etc etc.... take your time - check temps every time you heat it and you'll be on the right track. J.
  47. 3 points
    Here I have pic of the pin tool, also if you take the pin out to clean you need to wrap the pin tool with scotch tape an the ends of the pin stick out about two Millimeter to keep the pin from sliding down past the threaded washer here are pic not in order, you will get the idea Gino
  48. 3 points
    So guys might do this, but I haven't seen many or if any posts about softening hard lines in our paint work. I have a technique I use that I will share. So if I'm doing stripes, lines or hard edges that I don't want so obvious I take (wicked White) from createx dilute the hell out of it so its like a transparent white. the I fold over a piece of Tulle (a type of mesh they use for weddings) fold it in half a few times and shoot the white trough the mesh, its so fine and the mesh stops you from over doing things and disperses the paint very well. Spray the ares you want to concentrate on and there you go! soft edges.
  49. 3 points
    We were all required to read the rules before making our first post.Rule #3 states that posting pictures in the forums for exhibiting our work is not allowed.Please post such photo's in the appropriate photo gallery. Photos are allowed in the forums if it lends some insight in the discussion....Thank you...Nathan
  50. 3 points
    Thanks Husky, Your technique has led me to this nice little Musky lure!!! Maple, foil, lot's Of Iwata and here we have a 6" glider. Thanks again! Douglas
×
×
  • Create New...
Top