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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/27/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    You are using the wrong kind of beads behind the clevis, that is one problem. The beads behind the clevis aren't just a spacer, they act as a bearing for the clevis to spin on. The second part of the problem is your design, you have the weight way to far behind the blade placement.
  3. 2 points
    Almost didn't see the spider haha...looks sick!
  4. 2 points
    You can also make or buy a stencil with little holes, maybe in different sizes, to speed the process along if you're doing a bunch of them. The trout patterns are definitely cool.
  5. 2 points
    I don't remember what they are called either, but just buy stainless steel wire, in the diameter that you want or need. Make sure you match the clevis to the wire diameter, so it spins freely, otherwise it will bind.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Ive been pouring jigs and weights in a bismuth alloy for about 2 years now. Certainly more costly then lead but a whole lot less costly than tungsten. I'm melting and pouring at about *500. You won't be twisting sprues off these items. You'll need gate shears to trim, and sandpaper or file to clean where you cut the sprue off. As far as powder coating, I'll powdercoat the next day or even longer after I pour to allow the items to cool completely. The I heat them gently over an alcohol lamp and dip them. Plan on ruining a bunch due to heating to a too high temp. I hang them once again to cool. And then finally heat them in an oven set at 275 for smaller stuff, and 290 for the bigger stuff. Jigs weights or whatever are hung in oven as it heats to temp, and once the set temp is reached I shut the oven off. Not as perfect a finish as a lead jig, but not too bad. Instead of powder coating you can also spray paint them. If I spray them, I but a finish coat of clear. Alloy I use is around $15 a pound. There is a learning curve to pouring the alloy as it behaves differently than lead. It expands as it cools, so at times it can be a botch to remove from the mold. No actually their always that way. Especially when pouring bullet type worm weights. For jigs I graphite coat the mold, and after pouring I give the mold a whack with a small hammer. Bullet weights are the worst! The pull pins are a royal pain to remove. I've tried using WD 40, Pam, and I'll be pouring this weekend, and I'm going to experimant with Never Seize. The items aren't as fragile as you might be led to believe. But are more fragile than lead. The way I test for lead vs alloy when I get sloppy on the work bench, I whack'em with a hammer. If it shatters- alloy. If it flattens- lead. As far as weight. Iypically pour 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, and 1/2oz items. Using the same molds as one would use for lead. Weight difference is negligible. Example... a 3/8oz jig should weigh .375 oz, where as an alloy jig will go roughly .355 to as close to.370oz. Density of course is different, so if you want a faster fall, just move up to the next 1/16 or 1/8 oz.
  8. 1 point
    I used to use these but if they are full of hot plastic and you squeeze them hard enough to pick them up they partially collapse and hot plastic can spill out the top. IF you only fill them 1/2 they work great, plus the seem to keep the plastic hot longer than glass. I tried to figure out some type of holder for them but was never successful. The large size didn't fit any kind of beer can holder, so I was out of luck!!!
  9. 1 point
    A soft formed weedless slider/popper style frog.
  10. 1 point
    This might work. It's what I heat my plastisol in: https://www.amazon.com/Norpro-Silicone-Measuring-Flexible-Dishwasher/dp/B002MKP24K
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  16. 1 point
    Notice is says "Pro - V bend jig hook" and not 570 pro-v. They are just the regular 500BP lil nasty as TW has had them since 2017. The 570 pro v was only announced at the 2019 ICAST show and even the description is the same as what is used for the 500BP lil nasty word for word. For some reason TW was calling that hook a pro v from the start but I believe it was due to Trokar having a model called a pro v so it just carried over. Go back and read the description, "designed with super fine wire" which wasn't used to descript the 570 pro v. The only thing I saw of the 570 pro v is the use in jig heads and jigs like the Jewel pee wee football jig. So far the plain hook hasn't been made for retail yet and as I said, TW had that hook before there was even mention of a 570 pro v.
  17. 1 point
    Roach pattern lateral rattle jerk bait
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  22. 1 point
    Al, not to be an A$$, but I offer that when the sticky was started, a number of experienced members posted recipes. Within a year or so, the discussions and question posts began. Not sure how big a job it is to clean it up but it would be nice. Maybe as a moderator, you can just delete and not have to go into the HTML file and manually delete line by line.
  23. 1 point
    Very cool man. Great lure for a geat cause!
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  26. 1 point
    That was my system. I will try and find the photos and diagrams for you and re post. .
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point

    © Metalhead Blade Baits

  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I’ve never heard of anyone vacuum chambering their plastisol. What you can do is wait a minute or two to let the bubbles rise to the top. Some of the bubbles will pop and disappear on their own. When most of the bubbles are at the top, you can take a propane torch or a heat gun and run that over the top of the plastic and it will pop the bubbles that rise to the top. Breaks the surface tension. Be careful not to scorch your plastisol. The heat trick works on epoxy also.
  31. 1 point
    If you are talking about bubbles in the silicon mold there is one thing that definitely helps. When pourIng your mold only cover your master with a thin layer of silicone and stop. You will be able to actually see the bubbles form an pop. This only takes a few minutes to pass then you will be able to continue pouring. it makes a big difference and I kick myself every time I rush and forget this step. When I do this with a master that was clear coated master I get an extremely smooth mold cavity. You will still have bubbles in the rest of the mold
  32. 1 point
    You need to mix slower, pour in one corner and let the mold material flow from one corner to fill the mold box. I use Alumilite products now, but they concept is the same for both. But, yes, in the end, for production quality you may just need to pony up and get a vacuum chamber. Still, I have one and almost never use it.
  33. 1 point
    9ft.5wt. 4pc. D.M. Custom Rods
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Way too many joints I would have lost at least two if I attempted that build lol
  36. 1 point
    What's it carved from? This thing looks really cool.
  37. 1 point
    If it swims as good as it looks, you're in business!
  38. 1 point
    I've found that hitting my black sharpie with a hair dryer helps it to not run. With red and chartreuse sharpies, they will still run, unless I shoot a coat of Createx gloss clear over them. When I dip and hang a bait by the nose with red sharpie gills without the gloss, the red bleeds down a little, and makes a neat bleeding bait effect. This old photo shows some bleeding on the right hand bait. At the time I was using AC1315 concrete sealer, and evidently didn't heat set the red well enough, because it bled a little. I did other baits at that time with more pronounced bleeding, but I evidently didn't take any pics. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/5484-5-inch-gliderwalkers/
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    So after all they messing around with different ideas I have settled on this design. This is my first fully finished surface paddler.
  41. 1 point
    Walnut and maple laminated rat. Lure parts stainless hardware and flex coat lure epoxy.
  42. 1 point
    Hand carved pine, hand bent wire, Airbrushed using Createx and coated in 30 minute epoxy
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  44. 1 point
    I've made the exact same spinner only changing one thing at a time to see if I can isolate the issue as to why one won't spin, bottom line, I have no freakin idea. Changing the number or size of the beads didn't matter. My only guess is it's the blade itself. In my frustration I've bent or otherwise "modified" the blade to get it to spin, sometime it worked sometimes not. Eventually I would just cut the wire and reuse the components. I haven't put all of these in the water yet, but the ones with hooks do work.
  45. 1 point
    Cardboard tubes sounds like a good idea to me. You could cut them to any length needed on a bandsaw. Ben
  46. 1 point
    Check out the sticky up top for mold makers & go through their inventories. You can usually find about anything you want. Basstackle molds is pretty popular with most of us.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks for all replies. I will continue to try and purchase a new Bass Tackle twin injector and blending block. As a side, I live in Pocono Lake Pennsylvania and have quite a few boxes of popcorn salt. If you are in the area I will GIVE some boxes to anyone that uses salt in their baits. Best fishing. Pop
  48. 1 point
    Good catch I completely missed those beads have a flat top and bottom
  49. 1 point
    Been a long time since I have made in lines that small but if I remember correctly if your clevis is too large you are going to have issues. Here is a screenshot of a chart to match sizes at this moment the clevis is the last issue I can think of
  50. 1 point
    Deep diving walleye. I've been painting for a little less then a year and this forum has really helped the learning curve.
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