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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    NWBass, I'm coming into the conversation a little late, so I apologize for that (took a few days off for spring break with the kids!). I'm sorry you're having issue with the split rings you purchased from us. As many here have already suggested, there's definitely some technique to putting these together. I've built more than I can count, and I still semi-regularly end up with sprung split rings. A couple of suggestions that haven't already been covered: Consider using narrow opening split ring pliers. These are widely available online, including from us, many of our competitors, and from Amazon. The lower jaw on these pliers extends past the downward point of the upper jaw (think underbite), making it far more difficult to overextend your split rings. Basically, they limit how far you can open your split rings. I use these almost exclusively when building chatterbaits. When I'm building these, I use two pairs of split ring pliers (or, depending on what I have on hand, a pair of split ring pliers and a small pair of round nose pliers). The technique is difficult to describe, but, basically, I use the narrow opening split ring pliers to get the ring started on the blade, then, while using the narrow opening pliers to keep the split ring open, I'll use the other pair of pliers to rotate the split ring onto the blade. Not sure that makes sense, but I've found it far easier to maneuver/rotate the ring/blade this way without overextending the ring. Maybe I'm just losing dexterity as I age! If you like, PM me your order info (order number and/or email address) and I'll double check to make sure we sent you the right rings. It's possible another style of split ring slipped in there (stainless steel would be a nightmare on these). We'll do what we can to make things right. Thanks, and good fishing! Matt Barlow
  2. 3 points
    If I had a $1 for every time someone told me that a particular lure was the only consistent fish catcher.... Well lets just say I would have a Lear jet in my driveway.
  3. 2 points
    Congratulations to the winners of the 2019 Coolest Lure Contest! Below are the winners of this year's contest. I will update this post sometime tomorrow with links to each winner's lure photo. 2019 Coolest Lure Contest Winners Best Custom Painted Hardbait 1 st - Supreme Bluegill – @mdojet 2 nd - Custom Painted Wakebait - @Cliffs Lures 3 rd - 3D Gill - @Big Bass Man Best Homemade Hardbait 1 st - Hitchhiker 80 – @Badaboom 2 nd - Z Pike – @MazLures 3 rd – Curly Tail Hardbait – @madtownlures Best Wire Bait 1 st – ½ oz. Swingtail Spinnerbait – @Lunkerlunchbaits 2 nd – Custom 1/2oz.Bladed Jig – @smallmouthchaser 3 rd – Custom Frog Buzzbait - @carpslayer556 Best Soft Bait 1 st - 3.25" Power Finesse Craw - @zachary muhleman 2 nd – Kraken Knight.jpg - @Randall Koop 3 rd - 4" Goby – @foxbites Best Fly 1 st – Scorpion Fly – @Leonsebiatan 2 nd - Deer hair duckling - @Deer hair duckling 3 rd - Hand Tied Custom Streamer – @Bassmankam Best Custom Rod or Reel 1 st - Handmade 9’ 5wt fast action fly rod @DrakeFC 2 nd - Custom Fly Rod.jpg - @Brian7394 3 rd - Stand Up Rod Thread Wrap – @Javabones
  4. 2 points
    Just some word of advice, yes making , pouring your own baits can be rewarding and alot of fun. Saftey is so important. So don't forget to use common sense. Make sure your mentally all there. Prior to getting started.Take your time dont rush it! Take precautions! if inside or outside have plenty of ventilation use respirators, gloves, goggles. Protect your eyes there all you have. Don't ever pour your baits around animals or let young children help. Make sure your working on a very steady area or work space.Never work around flammable liquids, gasses or any materials that can ignite . Don't joke around As there can always be potential for an accident waiting to happen. Fumes and temp of heated plastic can be toxic, and can cause serious burns ,water or any moisture should not come in contact with hot plastic. Especially when pouring lead. Dont make a big mistake. Always protect yourself the time that you spent doing things in a safer way will save you from the hazards, accidents and problems that can happen as a result from being careless , and expensive medical bills, or from causing a fire as a result of not taking the time to think about what I should of done before not after.
  5. 2 points
    I weigh my plaster molds on a gram scale. When the mold stops losing weight in the drying process then the mold is 'dry'. From personal experimentation; PoP loses weight at a constant rate, there is no gradual slowing down of the weight loss, so it is very easy to determine the dry point. I mention this because over drying in the oven can make the mold powdery. A cracked open oven works well, but the ideal rapid method is a warm box with fan circulation. I used 3x 100W incandescent (filament) bulbs as the heat source. If you make a lot of molds, this simple wood construction oven is worth building. Dave
  6. 2 points
    I get the same split rings and I will get one that has it happen maybe 1 in 15 or so. I normally don't have it happen on the blade, it is usually when I'm going onto the hook eye that it will happen. Now this is going to sound stupid but try it and see if it helps. I noticed this happens more when I get it started and then work it all the way around in which it takes 5 or 6 movements. If I get the split ring started and then take my pliers and hold the ring as far back as I can go and make 1 or 2 big rotations for the ring to go on it almost never gets sprung open. The same thing for the hook eye, it takes a bit to get it down but that really helped, it seemed the longer it takes to get it on the more apt it is to stay open. As for putting it on the hook eye, you will do better by cleaning the paint off the eye and I have a way to help with that. I sacrificed a spinnerbait hook to do this a long time ago and I still use the same hook to this day. I use a 5/0 hook that is too big to go all the way through the hook eye but still goes far enough in that it will help clear the eye. I put the point in as far as it will go and I work it back and forth until the paint falls off, it doesn't take that long.
  7. 2 points
    The blades you're referring to are they spinnerbait blades or blades used for a chatterbait type of blade? If they are the chatterbait type blades those are easy to put on. I have one solution for you. Open the split ring enough to get the blade hole started at the end of the split ring about an 1/8". Once you have it started, do not use the split ring pliers to keep opening the split ring. Use the pliers to maneuver the split ring around the blade. One other thing when putting on blades on split rings, it is easier to put the blades with the blade parallel to the ring and not perpendicular to the split ring. By doing it this way, you are not stretching the split ring throughout the whole travel of the blade you are trying to get on. Does this make sense?
  8. 2 points
    Outstanding! Thanks y'all! Glad to be here.
  9. 2 points
    Well done, I like the material listing on screen!!!
  10. 2 points
    Map gas is too hot, propane is much better for this. I don't think it is too much heat though, the issue is how you are putting the colors on, you have to think about how the powder is going to spray. For example, on a bait that I'm doing that say has a white belly with a red throat patch, pearl sides and a black back I will do the colors in a certain order. First the white belly, then the red throat patch and that is because I may get overspray onto the pearl. Next I do the pearl body and finally the black back, but for the back I won't spray directly on top but maybe 5 degrees off center, it is very little. I do that so I get a little overspray onto what I call the shoulders of the bait, this area is lighter in color to the back and gives a nice transition over to the lighter pearl color.
  11. 2 points
    here is one I painted close to that color showing the back color i described
  12. 2 points
    Yeah, brain tumors and hurricanes will do that to you. You guys are unreal sometimes...
  13. 2 points
    8” cedar wide body shallow diver rattle 6” cedar wide body deep diver rattle
  14. 2 points
    Good to hear, and welcome!! There are some serious brainiacs here should you ever get stuck.
  15. 1 point
    I started with a Ladle pour pot and always thought it would be nice to have a bottom pour. Bought one lightly used and I really abused it by never cleaning it and it’s been 3+ years without cleaning. They can take some abuse and lack of maintenance. Mine is proof positive.
  16. 1 point
    I ended up getting the 12oz from him (quality injector and more on fb). Got it yesterday and it’s awesome, only got a chance to play with it a little last night, but it’s very smooth, dual locking pins, dual orings on the plunger, very smooth action. I will say that it had a lot of dust, I assume from manufacturing, in it when I got it, but ran some worm oil through it a few times, cleaning the plunger and tube out each time, and no big deal. it was around 26 degrees last night, I did have a propane forces air heater going, but the injector heated up quick and stayed hot, most of the time the plug on the inside was less than half an inch thick, even putting 8oz in. this is the 12 oz next to a 6oz basstackle, not much difference in length and it’s pretty easy to use, so far pretty happy with the purchase!
  17. 1 point
    Looks like a Bomber Jointed Long-A to me...
  18. 1 point
    I would say shoot slow. Not a lot of appendages you need to fill fast on a Senko and shooting fast will sometimes cause some void type issues. As J.Burch said, 310-320 on the temps.as too hot will cause dents. Need enough good hot plastic to fill the mold as anything questionable in terms of volume will cause issues. Be sure and top the mold off as it cools. Some molds with small runners may require this. Let us know how it goes and good luck.
  19. 1 point
    You mention colors like they are all the same. But that is so far from the truth it is not even funny. If you know it is not an over heating problem them it just might be what you believe the color should look like. It takes a long time to find color you like or believe to be the right color. Not a bad thing but it just might take awhile to find them. And with that you will eventually end up with colors you may never use. Then you will find out that color strength is all over the place too. Not that it is a bad thing but when you use say one black and get a nice smoke color you might buy another suppliers black and it won’t be the same. If this all seems a bit overwhelming that’s because it is when it comes to colors.
  20. 1 point
    Hey Salty's. I guess I need to know a few more anglers. Could only afford this, but working on an upgrade.
  21. 1 point
    add red and you will get it browner.
  22. 1 point
    Hybrid crappie pattern with realistic colors and patterns.
  23. 1 point
    Use lapping compound w/ the plunger on a drill@ low speed. Check the plunger end frequently for complete polishing and proper alignment.You;ll see the plunger end completely polished when you have completed the process.
  24. 1 point
    Great idea weighing them Vodkaman. Thanks for the tip.
  25. 1 point
    Mark, Yes you could use steel wool, and put it on a drill, I do it by hand, because if my memory is correct, the spout with the hole is made out of brass and is soft. Doing it by hand lessens the chance of me damaging the spout and hole. It doesn't take much effort to clean the pot. It takes more time to empty the lead safely and letting the pot cool a bit so you can clean it.
  26. 1 point
    I too have the folkart crackle medium and really like the results I get. I have found that a thinner coat of the crackle medium followed with a slightly thicker coat of paint gives me the best results. I saw a youtube video where the author really applied the crackle medium in a thick coat, followed with a thick coat of paint. In my findings, I had trouble with the "excess" paint and medium shifting on my lure.
  27. 1 point
    I just answered you over here>>> http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=969893
  28. 1 point
    The EC 635 is a heavy wire tin plated hook , so it is no going to rust because it was plated for salt water. I sell a lot of these and never had any complaints. The comparable hook although a little costlier is a Mustad 91715. On another note, many guys I have dealt with are switching over to black nickle hooks. I have been told by several of my customers, that they work just as good as the tinned hooks, and naturally a wider variety of hooks in the black nickle series that fit a wide variety of jigs.
  29. 1 point
    I never did add dust collection to my table router. There are two methods; top fence or underside box. There are plenty of videos on YouTube. here is a good video explaining the underside box method. Dave
  30. 1 point
    Turns out to be the paper filter. Switched to a coffee filter and I have flow. Thank you.
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    NWbass, the best way I have found to keep powder paint off the eye of a hook is to wrap Teflon plumbers tape around the eye, heat the jig and powder paint it. I use a fluid bed mostly. Then remove the Teflon tape BEFORE you heat set the powder paint. It’s a bit tedious because the Teflon is so thin but with a bit of practice you figure out a technique. I like to keep the powder off my bladed jig eyes as Well. I don’t like cleaning the powder off but prefer to keep it off.
  33. 1 point
    To me it looks like your technique is good but the split rings may not be the best quality. I would call worth and see either what they recommended as they make all manner of split rings and supply many tackle mfgs. with split rings. Good American made split rings using good spring steel, stainless, and other finishes. You won’t be disappointed. Here’s a link. https://lurecomponents.worthco.com/products/split-rings
  34. 1 point
    Smalljaw - I think you are right. In the early days I used to suffer sprung rings a lot. But, as my ring technique improved, the problem went away. Speed is always my motivation, I considered the ring assembly a challenge, to get the ring on with as few movements as possible. You also stated that it might 'sound stupid', and I agree. From an engineering point of view, it is a Young's modulus thing; exceed the bending limit and spring-back is incomplete. But it seems that time of stress is also relevant but I didn't think that such a short time would be significant. Obviously IT IS! I never did figure out why I had so many failures and none now, so thanks. Another thing that might improve the assembly is heat. I am not talking about using a flame as you might disturb the temper of the steel. I am suggesting gripping the ring with the split ring pliers without opening, dunking in boiling water for 5 seconds, then perform the assembly. If a few seconds make a difference, this may buy you a few more seconds. It won't cost anything to try. Dave
  35. 1 point
    I have used D2T , BSI and E-tex for clearcoating jigs. I have never had any problems with any of them. D2T and BSI seem identical to me as far as application and weight. They also have a slight amber color to them. If I you want the brightest of whites, I use E-tex. It originally mixes a little runny, but if you wait 10 minutes it gets a bit thicker.
  36. 1 point
    That looks normal for standard split rings being opened to that gap. You'll need to go to the heavy duty 3x rings to get ones that stay completely closed in that situation. I'm not sure how the thicker rings would affect the action of the lure though, or if it would at all.
  37. 1 point
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/24-3D-SILVER-OVAL-W-BLACK-PUPIL-Soft-Molded-1-8-3mm-Eyes-Fly-Tying-Lures/362565291373?hash=item546a934d6d:g:s2YAAOSwXeJYEJvX https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-x-1mm-Oval-Silver-900-Soft-Molded-3D-Holographic-Fish-Eyes-Fly-Jig-Lure/262572859782?epid=1184105868&hash=item3d228fe186:g:IKEAAOSwHoFXq~yF https://www.ebay.com/itm/4mm-x-2mm-Oval-Silver-800-Soft-Molded-3D-Holographic-Fish-Eyes-Fly-Jig-Lure/252496119991?epid=1484130732&hash=item3ac9f108b7:g:J4MAAOSw-itXq~u9
  38. 1 point
    Try using toe nail clippers to trim a round eye to that shape.
  39. 1 point
    I was going to suggest using a torch if you were using a heat gun. Smalljaw is the resident SME (subject matter expert) on the powder spraying. I tried it and could never get good results so I just do the tap method and went to an airbrush. Hope you get it worked out....
  40. 1 point
    I actually run a vibratory fluid bed for certain colors. It is an aluminum base made from C channel with conical shaped spring feet. I use flat end caps permanently affixed to the base with a screw and a little bit of epoxy. I have small electric vibratory motors glued to the back of these bases and the aluminum base. I have two fluid beds mounted on it and in between them is a switch that allows me to adjust the amount of vibration I give them. For providing air I use a 30/60 aquarium pump I bought from Walmart. My cups are made from PVC or ABS using knockout test caps and Tyvek. my flat caps are 3in so I can use 3" cups or install a 3"-2" adapter and use 2" fluid bed cups. If anybody is interested I could post some pics when I get some time to take them. Some paints just don't want to fluidize and I still have some that want to give me minor volcanoes. But with this system it seems to work much better and some paints that used to give me volcanoes don't give me any. As with all powder paint they should be stirred well or shaken up before the fluid bed is turned on that helps me with a lot of colors.
  41. 1 point
    Wear it, cheap insurance...
  42. 1 point
    Thank you I that means a lot coming from the man himself
  43. 1 point
    Thanks for the suggestions and advice.
  44. 1 point
    Welcome to the site! many people here with a lot of knowledge, use the search feature in the upper right...works well.
  45. 1 point
    I just twist a swivel on to a .035 wire shaft
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I'm gonna some this up for everyone really quick. People expected the cheapest ass product they could and still wanted to complain. So we started degassing pre shipping. It is exactly the same plastic. this allowed us when people cried about bubbles to say, you should have bought degassed then. Most every plastic is mixed under a vacuum, science says if you don't do this your going to whip air into it. Now this also has many dependencies on viscosity. Aka lurecraft to my knowledge does not degass, but there product being a good product for most, don't misinterpret my words, has a very thin viscosity, aka settles fast. So it can mix easily without degassing. same goes for lureworks, it to has a thin viscocity. reason they can sell it under injectasol easily not degassed... There suspendasol, now is like mayonnaise, Reason you guys cant use it effectively as you cant mix it without whipping in air very easily. Now you have moisture, looks just like air, acts like air etc. Degasser will also extract moisture, I sure hope this clears some air without any feelings being hurt.
  48. 1 point
    Don't pour plastisol on Saturday afternoons in the fall...if you are a Tennessee Vol fan.
  49. 1 point
    Just my thoughts but you should not have to stand on your head, spin around three times and all that to get your plastic heated without micro bubbling. Waiting for bubbles or cooking slower affects production adversely. Jim
  50. 1 point
    Don't start pouring your own plastics. It's addictive and will drain your wallet. Just like fishing
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