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  1. 2 points
    Check out this video from Jekyll Baits on YouTube, seems like she achieves a similiar effect.
  2. 2 points
    Nice tubes. The squid is killer!
  3. 2 points
    If you will slide a thin piece of hard plastic under your baits that you have laid out to cure you can bag them by sliding the baits and thin plastic the baits are now laying on in the mouth of your bag without disturbing the baits much. You will need to lubricate your thin plastic, what ever you use, so it will slide easily under your baits. I use worm oil. I think most guys do. I also use a spatchula and have several with different widths. In the home goods department at Wally World you can find thin plastic cutting surface you can trim to fit your bags. I have thought about using these but my spatchula has a handle.
  4. 1 point
    Agreed. That with a tad of green hi-lite
  5. 1 point
    hi, new to making baits! im looking for bigger guage screw eyes. cant seem to find any retail store that sells them..i have the 0.092" from lurepartsonline but i want something bigger. will be using it for the joints and line tie. i can use the 0.092" for the hooks. my bait is made out of wood..any help would be appreciated..thanks!
  6. 1 point
    I hate to always be the wet blanket when it comes to screw wire vs thru wire, but in my opinion, if you are making a premium lure for muskies or pike, it should always be thru wire. Screw eyes are plenty strong when new, but after fishing with a lure for a year or two, almost no amount of finish will be able to withstand rocks and fish. If there is any moisture ingress or if the threads 'crack' loose from the glue that's holding the screw, it can pull out. Sorry, it just bugs me seeing musky lures that go for 100+$ dollars, and they have screw in hardware. This is the result. A lost lure and possibly a dead fish. This was from a big pike that crushed the lure boat side. Set the hook and out came the large screw eye. Hopefully the fish chucked the lure. This is from a 'well made' well known lure manufacturer (I won't name names or anything). This is the second time that it has happened to me, so I can only imagine with all the people fishing, how many times this may happen. This would not happen with thru wire. I'm tough on equipment, I fish a lot, and if there is a weakness, musky fishermen tend to find it. I'm headed out this weekend, freezing temps, and lakes icing up to go bash some other lures around on the Canadian shield hoping for another hog.
  7. 1 point
    I have had this happen from a lot of reducer and having the airbrush too close and moving too slowly across the lure as opposed to a quicker controlled even spray . I almost got a kind of bloodline effect , I'll find them and post pics Tommy
  8. 1 point
    It came yesterday.... Going to have a couple company's squirt some custom baits for me...
  9. 1 point
    Adam,I've been very busy & forgot to send you the sample tubes, but i will this week. Sorry.
  10. 1 point
    I get a color close to that with 1 each drop of pumpkin seed and motor oil in 2 oz of plastisol.
  11. 1 point
    Cool effect. I believe I've had this happen before to a similar effect. I seem to have this happen with a few of my paints that I did not shake well enough. So similar problem as to over thinning, basically not enough pigment. It happened to my orange paint, a pearl white and a black as well. Was super watery and dried splotchy like that (I was going for a nice smooth finish). When I tried to actually stir the paint with a stir stick, turns out I had a bunch of the pigment clumped up and stuck to the jar. Especially orange, I have had lots of trouble with oranges lol.
  12. 1 point
    I’ve been using them for at least four years. I still use the same injector since I started using them. Yes they scratch but not to the point of total failure . I have had to change the oring twice but no biggie. My sticks I use a mix of beads and salt. Durability is better however I make mine super soft so I tend to go through a lot.
  13. 1 point
    I got some of the lurecraft micro bubbles which are actually small hollow glass kinda like what is being talked about here. I'll work with it and post my results. I'll head all the warnings around respirators, fans turned down, add more dye due to glass causing lighter colors, etc.. stay tuned. my goal is to make baits similar to the z-man elaztec w/o all their negative properties and lack of fluid action u get from plastisol. we will see.
  14. 1 point
    MF sells a floating additive. Never used the stuff but some have said it is light and fluffy and is dangerous to inhale. Will suspend easily in air when disturbed. The system three you linked looks interesting. May even be the same type product. The shipping is expensive from your link but Amazon has it with prime shipping.
  15. 1 point
    My 30 year old stirring sticks are teflon. You can leave them in the pyrex while heating in the microwave.
  16. 1 point
    Nice finish. It's annoying when you can't recreate a happy accident. Like RPM said, probably not enough pigment. Could there had been something in your gun after rinsing out the green that hit the lure first when you sprayed the black? Is it possible the green paint wasn't not fully set? I have accidentally got some crackle finishes and splotchy finishes when the underneath paint was not fully dry when I thought it was. I put on the top paint evenly. The underneath paint still has a bit moisture causing the top to pool to random spots. Sometimes the top paint semi-dries first. Then, the underneath paint finishes drying and pulls the top paint to a crackle appearance.
  17. 1 point
    Mark you hit the nail on the head, I've done this before many times, especially when shooting the paint mixture with to much thinner, there is not enough pigment in the paint to cover thus leading to your results posted, the to thin mixture seems to pool and create this effect, I think it's on the verge of running but since it's on the top of the lure it has no where to run. Sorry I wish I had a better way to describe it, but it does make for a pretty cool effect. I've often thought I ruined the bait and wanted to wipe it off but went ahead and put the heat gun to it, sometimes the heat gun will make it seperate more, giving it a pourus, texted effect. Please see example, sorry it's not the best because I tried to cover it with pearl mixed into the clear coat, but you should be able to see it well enough. I should add, it happens to me mostly when I use Createx Candy Transparent Black, very rarely will it happen when using an opaque paint. Thanks Rich
  18. 1 point
    Dick night wouldn't ship to me here in Alaska so I couldn't try it out. They are not likely to ship to Canada either. I use D2T epoxy or Alumi UV from alumilite to seal eyes on my saltwater jigs. I built a light box with a 1,000 watt blacklight to cure the Alumi UV. The Alumi UV was spendy with the shipping added in but they did ship to me. Overall I'm happy with both products. D2T works well to coat entire jigs. Not sure how either would work on a production scale. KBS diamond clear seems like a good product but I haven't tried it I think shipping may be an issue with it as well.
  19. 1 point
    Perhaps the question should be can you control the temperature of the hot plate? I offer the following link regarding the breakdown of silicone and temperature. https://silicone.co.uk/news/temperatures-can-silicone-rubber-withstand/ From that web site: "For example, if heated up to 150°C you would see very little change in the silicone, even if held at this temperature for a very long time, At 200°C the silicone will slowly become harder and less stretchy with time, and if the silicone was heated up to a temperature beyond 300°C, you would quickly see the material become harder and less stretchy in a very short time, due to such extreme temperature conditions but it would not melt." Now, not every silicone can handle 150 deg. C (302 deg. F) for a long time. But, the Alumilite HS2 can withstand up to 395 deg. F for some time. I seldom go that hot, and I always treat my molds with liquid silicone oil after it and let it set (makes it last longer). In my opinion, a hot plate that was holding a temperature of say 175 degrees F, it would be well below degradation point but would preheat it well before use.
  20. 1 point
    As a youngster, less then 12, I use to make a version of the super duper out of copper sheets. I polished the sheets and treated it with a clear coat (don't remember which but later in life clear fingernail polish) and I swear they caught more fish than the original. The Jakes has a different shape, but is well within the ability of most lure makers. If I could find the copper sheets again with the correct thickness, I would make them right now. So, is it worth it, for me it would be.
  21. 1 point
    I am saying try it, it works. Been doing it with motor oil since Spikeit changed there motor oil. And with the last changeable color you showed yes you can don’t just throw up your hand and say it is not possible. They made it and so can you.
  22. 1 point
    Thank you for your answer. I'm looking for problems in many ways now. I think there is an additive that can solve this problem.
  23. 1 point
    PTFE, otherwise known as teflon, has various formulations. Plastisol will not stick to it, but some forms, like teflon tape, can melt with hot platisol. Some teflon has a super high melting point and would be fine. Sorry, not sure if this helps.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Yeah, I was talking about baits that lay flat in the bag.( think jig trailors.) when using the thin plastic to bag with. Now if you are talking about worms, lizards, craws and such.... bagging is a royal pain so we hired a few teenagers to bag for us. We took the bags and baits to them, showed them how and the quantity of each bag and paid them when they finished. Worked real well for us.
  26. 1 point
    My experience has been that baits with salt added in the plastisol soak up scent more readily than baits that don't have salt added to the plastisol. Also, water based scents soak into baits better than oil based scents.
  27. 1 point
    Well you are going to have to find out what is making it do that. If you compounded your own then it is a formula problem I my opinion.
  28. 1 point
    I don’t sell. Just a hobby for me. And I don’t bag much anymore. I use those cheap plastic containers with tops that then go into my bass boat lockers. Maybe when I retire, I may get into some small time arrangement with a few mom and pop places just to have something to do and drink coffee, get out of the house, etc. if you want to produce a lot of baits, cavity count is what you have to work on.
  29. 1 point
    And the 6 inch shown in this pic
  30. 1 point
    Your baits will continue to soak up your scent til you lose them to the bass.
  31. 1 point
    You need a mold that accepts eyelets where the hook would normally come out. An eyelet for the line tie and another for the hook. You can either add the hook onto the eyelet before casting or use a split ring to add it after depending on how you want them. You can use the brass eyelets but I only use stainless ones. I prefer the long stainless ones when they fit. You can buy a custom mold made this way or possibly modify an existing mold. Here's a mold to cast what your wanting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/124319893175 And here are the eyelets. https://barlowstackle.com/Stainless-Steel-Sinker-Eyes--P1195/
  32. 1 point
    Thank you for your answer. But it doesn't contain salt.
  33. 1 point
    If you added salt, that could be the cause.
  34. 1 point
    +1 on what toadfrog said. Really the only difference is I lay my baits out on a cookie sheet and remelt all my runners so I have the least amount of waste. Your baits look good though. You will always have a few that aren’t perfect. Maybe a bubble or a void one may dent a little. The large volume producers have the same things happening. Pick up a bag of Zoom and inspect it closely.
  35. 1 point
    I hang them while on the runner. Then leave them about 3 days. Bag with scent . I put the scent in a spray bottle so I can spray the inside of the bag . Makes it easier to get the plastic to go in. I also made some skids I lay the plastics on to slide them in a uniform position into the bag. I put worm oil on those to make them slippery. Just my way and personal preference.
  36. 1 point
    Wasting your time with a patent attorney, unless you got really deep pockets... I think its pretty self educating if it has a patent, you can't copy it legally. Steve parks will have your balls hanging on his clothes line if you knock the strike king stuff.
  37. 1 point
    Heavy wire version of my swim jig head and a head I am switching barb/collar on. Allen
  38. 1 point
    Tamco is the best. You wont be disappointed.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Ripping someone with your first post is pretty weak.
  41. 1 point
    https://www.clearbags.com/spec/fishing-industry-packaging/worm-bags
  42. 1 point
    Godzilla, Most of the guys here who make large wood baits don't use screw eyes. They either run wire all the way through the bait (called "through-wire construction") or the cut 2-4 inches of SS wire, bend it in half, twist it leaving a loop and glue it in hole in place of a screw eye. These methods are both stronger and less expensive than screw eyes. I believe Janns Netcraft carries larger SS Screw eyes. Stephen
  43. 1 point
    Main ingredient in WD40 is fish oil... Use it on marshmallows to catch trout...... Any reason regular fish oil won't work as a scent on soft plastics???
  44. 1 point
    Evidently it is illegal to use WD40 as an attractant here in Calif. I know catfish guys here who swear by it.
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