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  1. 2 points
    Both of these are good choices. The saltwater ss leader wire is more bendable than hard temper ss wire but is much stiffer than soft temper “bend and stay” ss wire. I’ve used #12 Malin ss leader, which is pretty thin (.029”) but I really prefer .041” soft temper ss wire on bass sized baits. It’s very easy to shape but strong enough to maintain its shape as a line tie or hook hanger. Buy it in 1/4 lb spools from McMaster Carr online for less than $10.
  2. 2 points
    I tried using salt flour, and it was the worst! Clouded up my plastic so much it looked like I had added white colorant to it. I would not recommend doing that. I use coarse Kosher salt, and just stir really well just before I fill my injector.
  3. 2 points
    Try McMaster Carr SSwire I think it is 304 bend and stay. Wayne
  4. 2 points
    Here's what I use http://www.masontackle.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=155
  5. 2 points
    Here is the 4" Angling A.I. Cali Grub. 3" in the mold, 4" while swimming, sitting pretty on a 1/8oz jig head
  6. 2 points
    Glass beads work great. And so does Salt .I use a mixture of the two to get the ballast I’m looking for. I will say this,if you use say soft plastic and add salt or glass beads. If you add softner to it . You will use a different amount of it depending on the ballast used . From my own experience I have found I can use less with the beads than I can with salt. From a use standpoint the beads will produce a far more durable bait than the salted one . Many folks here will agree with that.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Ground salt sucks IMO. Get some good plastic that has a natural higher viscosity and it will suspend just fine.
  9. 2 points
    Here is the way I see it. You just have to worry about yourself. You cannot stop what you are talking about. So you just need to do it better than everyone else. It is not an easy thing to do. Being the best never is. Bottom line is.....How bad you want it? Skeeter
  10. 1 point
    Why does literally everyone paint crankbaits now? It seems just a few years ago it was a small group of people who actually painted but now it seems anyone and everyone does it! I’m not saying it’s a bad thing but it’s definitely flooded the custom bait market and what used to be custom is just another crankbait. It’s kind of ridiculous. I think a big part of it is the Facebook pages, they see people painting and they want to do it. They paint for a week total and are all of a sudden opening a custom crankbait business. It just makes it hard for painters who are talented to make a living as crazy as it seems, and yes there are a few that do, to be able sell there paint jobs when it just gets copied by one of the Facebook page newbies and next thing you know they are trying to sell that color. Another thing the Facebook page has ruined is the learn as you go part and the time it takes to actually develop the skill to paint well. Everyone wants the know how and the how to put right in there lap. Just ridiculous man.
  11. 1 point
    Don't worry yourself over things you cannot control, do the best work you can , be honest and fair and you develop a following based on quality work ethic and most likely will be busier than you care to be...best of luck.
  12. 1 point
    A few things going on in regards to light transmission and suspension of salt. First all these salts are the same as in NaCl. Where they differ is purity/additives. Salt by it very nature is problematic in that it picks up water. NaCl is used to calibrate some instruments that measure water uptake based on its very well studied water adsorption. So unless you store your salt properly and dry it you are adding some water to your plastic during the heating process. Adding some cloudiness to the end product if not all removed (not a big issue as often gets boiled off during heating). Additionally to counteract salts water loving tendencies manufactures place anti caking agents in it to avoid it turning into a brick (and iodized typically). So you have impurities playing a role in regards light transmission. Other issues that cause cloudiness are result of tackling the suspension issue.. The salt crystal shape plays a role in suspension. Table salt and others are cubodial. The shape results in crystals that don't suspend readily. So guys grind it to make the particles smaller but in doing so exponentially increase the surface area and further cause issues with transparency (lack of). Sort of like fill a glass with ice and pour a margarita mix over it versus putting that same ratio in your blender. You also are adding defects in the crystal in the process. Think of safety glass: pre and after hitting it with a hammer. Kosher, Maldon, and other salts prized by chefs are different in shape. Kosher typically is forced into a flat shape under pressure to form flakes. So take two cubes the same size/mass. Take the second cube and compress it flat. Drop them in a liquid guess which one hits the bottom first. The shapes vary in regards to displacement. The flat shape will displace more plastic and will sink slower than the cube and is the reason Kosher salts suspend better in comparison to table (cubodial) salt. Cargill uses a process called Alberger process to make some of their salts. It results in concaved plate/flake. These salts Kosher, maldon, the Cargill select products are typically larger particle size to boot so often get the best of both worlds... larger crystals (less defects and less surface area) with a shape but do to the shape suspend better than cubes. Additionally they often don't have anticaking agents.
  13. 1 point
    I buy mine here https://www.ebay.com/itm/100X-Soft-Lure-Baits-Hook-Pin-Spring-Fixed-Lock-Fishing-Screw-Needle-Worm-PipCYN/233235352329?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 My last order was for 500... Cheap.
  14. 1 point
    So I love to make YouTube videos and here is my latest and how I have started making vulcanized rubber molds. Yes, there are a couple of issues that are easy to fix (better master, proper hook size) but I am happy so for... Ned Rig Mold
  15. 1 point
    Mark - smart boy, it's a refraction thing, like adding a second coat of D2T to a scuffed bait. But, the densities of salt and plastic are not the same, so the salt is still slightly visible. With coarse salt you are adding a couple of hundred grains (guess), but ground salt, who knows, hence the opaqueness. Dave
  16. 1 point
    How are the glass beads on the aluminum injectors ?
  17. 1 point
    The glass beads don't cloud the color very much. I still get good "transparent" colored baits.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I have one of the pancake grill it is about 12"x 16" i use it to heat injectors, set pyrex cups on, heat jig heads to paint, heat blending block, and if u want to heat molds it will do that, I don't heat molds as it takes too long for it to cool before u can open the mold but maybe u can just knock the chill off for like a min or so.Cub48
  20. 1 point
    One thing I have to say. Before you start carving or cutting a lure start with the lip size, you can save a lot of work buying a lip already made and make a small change or none at to your lure there are many sizes out there and will save you time and money. Wayne
  21. 1 point
    some paint seems to be almost un mixable whit hands. so ive found some really nice paint shaker,does anyone use some of these,for now i have look at the typhoon paint shaker and the vortex genie. lets see which one work well for you whit 2 - 4 oz bottle
  22. 1 point
    I use 20ga galvanized wire that I get at Lowe’s. Cut off piece lay it on the hook and wrap some thread around it. Put a little Krazy glue on it and you have a useable cheap bait keeper. I do that a lot with worm hooks and on some of my shaky jigs. i also make holders like the parasite clips.
  23. 1 point
    I don’t see why that wouldn’t work. I use a hot plate with a cast iron griddle on top of it. I also take a Qtip and oil those hard to shoot appendages which helps on the first few baits.
  24. 1 point
    Maybe just flo green/chart colorant with flo blue colorant... ? Flo turquoise?
  25. 1 point
    These are just tails, And I don't really want glitter/flash. Our clear water gills have a turquoise looking tail and no flash. That is what I'm trying to get. Hard to explain.. I don't want to dip 1000 baits tails. Electric turquoise? Maybe that is what I want...
  26. 1 point
    omg guys , sometimes we can find something positive in every possible junk . my wife got is extreme back pain and she is using these https://www.amazon.ca/Homedics-HHP-350-Percussion-Action-Massager/dp/B008981SDI/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=percussion+massage&qid=1563050585&s=hpc&sr=1-12 ive made the test whit some wicked whit the binder that was fully separated of pigment . and in less than 20 sec the paint was fully emulsified. i just push the bottle against the balls. seriously it work like a dream .if you got some of these give it a try.i think it 's even more powerful than the things that have been made especially for that purpose .
  27. 1 point
    At those prices, I think I'll mix by hand.
  28. 1 point
    Welcome McD to the fountain of lure knowledge were we all continue to learn. Dave
  29. 1 point
    Plastic probably isn’t burnt, it’s the purple flake bleeding that’s causing the brown discolouration. Looks good for the first shoot then gets worse with each reheat.
  30. 1 point
    heat stabilizer will help a ton, as will a probe thermometer. i dont use a themometer after the initial heat, just go by the viscosity of the plastic, but i use the exact heating routine every time, and its worked well. until you get used to the platic you use, the microwave you use and that sort of thing, check the temp more and use stabilizer and your colors should stay true reheat after reheat.
  31. 1 point
    You really need a thermometer as posted above . Different brands have different viscosity’s When heated . Even different between med and soft in the same brand. Best practice as stated above is to heat stir heat stir with a thermometer till you hit 350. It doesn’t take much past that for any brand to start scorching . We have all been the and have the shirt to prove it . Just comes with the learning curve.
  32. 1 point
    A digital thermometer (not an IR which only measures surface temperature) is a MUST ! You need to get your plastic up to 350F to completely change state the first time you use it. The reheats can be a lower temperature as long as it flows well into the far and/or small parts of your mold. You can use the probe on the thermometer to stir the plastic. Here is what I use (make sure any thermometer you buy can read to 350+ . Not all do.) You can set any of the food settings and the custom to 350F (see instructions in the ?section on the below site) https://www.charbroil.com/instant-read-digital-temp-gauge
  33. 1 point
    I see your time listed - but if your not checking temp each time you stir - you should be. That will help you judge time/power. J.
  34. 1 point
    If the baits are flat or pretty much simple, like a worm, it works fine. If they have detail, like fins, boot tails, etc., they tend to get crushed out of shape. At least, that is what happeded to mine. But...... sure pushed the scent deep into the plastic over time. LOL
  35. 1 point
    Angling AI make those molds, but they won’t sell them to you, they’ll only sell via u make em, so you are in a pickle!
  36. 1 point
    Be careful. Grinding salt too fine will affect the bait's color, making it murky. I use Kosher salt, and just stir the heck out of my plastic as I pour.
  37. 1 point
    I use sea salt and grind it.( but not with the wifes blender)
  38. 1 point
    If you are sealing them in bags that have the zip losk seal, you may have trouble as the vacuum seal would be below the zip seal. As for the baits getting kinked or folded up, just give it a try. A lot would depend on how many baits per bag, are you doing bulk bags?
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Jeff is spot on. Think of it in terms of fine art. You can try to make a version of DaVinci’s Mona Lisa, but it would look horrible in comparison to a master. There is also so much you can do with finishes/technique in terms of basecoats, layering, foils, candies, textures, effects, fades, etc. And there is research on why you are painting in this pattern/manner. Have you researched vision, color transmission, strike triggers, various types of contrast? You need to know the depth a certain bait is used at, and what way it is fished and at what time of year. Even clearcoating can give you an edge in clarity, scratch resistance, impact resistance, etc. If you’ve put the years of practice, research, etc. in, I think it will show compared a fly by night person that thinks it’s easy. Craig
  41. 1 point
    They say we learn from our mistakes so I should be a genus before I die
  42. 1 point
    Nope, you're the only one who has ever made a mistake! Hahaha
  43. 1 point
    But do you have lures you can’t even duplicate yourself lol I also don’t worry because I know people maybe able to create lures that look a like easily but it’s going to take someone with brains to re create the action
  44. 1 point
    So much pain! I feel lucky, no one can copy my shit, even when I give directions Dave
  45. 1 point
    And if you have to ask how to make a certain color you probably shouldn’t be painting anyways.
  46. 1 point
    Just because it has no or little odor doesn't mean it's ok to to breathe it in. Nobody is more stubborn than me. I poured plastics for years without proper ventilation and designed ,made and polished jewelry breathing in gold and silver dust with the same mindset. Even with the fresh air system, I tend not to walk over and flip the switch just for one or two quick colors. I also have a paint booth with exhaust, but when you're coating a dozen lures in Createx White, the particles are just floating around and being breathed in. Well, I'm not painting this week because I'm sitting here with the oxygen on 24/7 since last Tuesday evening and needless to say I did not fish the Saturday night club tourney. I do use it as much as possible and always when clear coating because my kids need a father. For the first time in my life, if someone asked me if I could do it all over, would I do anything different....I would say yes! Smoking for 40 years gave me the Emphysema..so much for being bullet proof. I have nobody to blame but myself and do what I can to protect what lung capacity (30+total%) but still fall short. Not looking for feedback or any sympathy but passing along the knowledge I've acquired from first hand experience as well as recommendation from those that came before me...
  47. 1 point
    I imagine the silicone negates the sticky effect since nothing really sticks to it. I tried substituting "Worm Oil" for mold release when I ran out one time and it made de-molding worse from aluminum molds; and these were decently polished production molds.
  48. 1 point
    Yes it is a top pour mold. I will try lubing the antennae areas to see if it helps. Thanks.
  49. 1 point
    I have a bout 500+ resin molds and produce about 3000-4000 pieces per week. I do use worm oil as a release agent. I make my models out of molder's clay and then make a "test" mold. If I like it, I then cast a silicone mold of the resin mold (a positive mold) and then copy the mold to as many cavities as I need. I have noticed that the test mold is MUCH more likely to need a release agent than the copies. The plastic never completely sticks, but since I use pretty soft plastic, and I would otherwise have to wait about thirty minutesfor the plastic to completely cool to demold. I am looking into getting a silicone based domlding agent. My plastic supplier is getting a sample for me. It is supposed to be sprayed on once every 30-40 castings and provide a shiny surface. We'll see. Stephen Gula Baits
  50. 1 point
    Problem is Longhorn the fishermen want the baits to be "pretty". I've always said that 3/4 of the look of the bait is for the fisherman; the fish don't give a darn for the most part. www.novalures.com
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