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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/10/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    .5 needle with my badger patriot combined with an airbrush flow improved to delay tip dry really helped me clean less and paint more.
  2. 3 points
    Neo has a .35 needle, so if you are trying to use craft paint or even unreduced quality airbrush paint you may still have clogging issues. Agree with others about sticking trigger and dirty nozzle. You just can't keep em too clean i've learned...
  3. 2 points
    I prefer a 0.5 needle airbrush... I have the least problem with cleaning and clogging. If I want details, I use a stencil.. I have a few of these>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-7CC-Airbrush-Paint-Spray-Gun-Kit-for-Toys-Nail-Care/173685950458?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=472360764798&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Worth trying yourself.
  4. 2 points
    No. 15 and 14. You are correct in that a new airbrush should have functioned properly... that is when you should have called for help. Nine months later after chucking it against a wall? Micheal's has a lot of coupons now. one is 60% off one item. Drive over to Keller and buy another one. I looked at one earlier this week thinking I might see about it for spraying finishes on small woodworking projects.
  5. 2 points
    I’ve owned Badger, Paasche, and Iwata. My Iwata is clearly the best built and has been trouble free for 10 years. Mine is a Revolution B with a .03 mm tip. Eclipse is of similar high quality in the Iwata lineup. Just IMHO, your Eclipse sounded like it had a problem in the trigger system which caused most of the problems you cited. All airbrushes are precision instruments that require daily cleaning and periodic deep cleaning. They're easy to break or get misadjusted so that they can’t work well. Finicky? Yeah, a little. But there’s no other tool that can do the same job as well.
  6. 2 points
    Iwata in my opinion about the best brush I have used. No major differences between them just subtle things in regards to quality. I have used the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS autographics brush for years with no problems at all. Neo is budget friendly option so going to likely come across lemons more frequently. I am in agreement with Bob and likely defective brush from the get go or also likely just need to be tweaked out of the box. If the brush was leaking air first place to look was the valve body set and valve body o-ring. May have been as simple as a cracked o ring. Trigger sticking even after cleaning likely needed a little airbrush lube or possible to clean up some flash from the casting so it was freely moving. If paint not spraying could be a few issues. Paint too thick, not enough pressure due to escaping air to function properly, small bit of dried paint clogging nozzle, etc.. Difficult to paint with brush not functioning right especially if not enough time has been spent painting to know what to trouble shoot.
  7. 2 points
    With either one you use you need to stir. Then it does not matter which one you use. I want to know the average temp not just the middle or out side. Stir and take the temp.
  8. 2 points
    We cut strips of masking tape the width of each joint and put them on both sides of the cloth. Then apply your choice of clear coat. We spray auto clear or moisture cure urethane. No need to spin.
  9. 2 points
    I hope you are not thinking that there is really a machine that will make baits on it own. If you are rethink what you are getting into. Cause there is not one. If you want to make baits and sell them after packaging then you have a few options. You can get your self two presto pots and a Twinjector and go for it. Another option is the shooting star. Both will do two colors but you will have to work to make the baits. You will be the machine. Even the 60k ones need someone to watch it and remove runners when time allows. I have been making baits for years now and only have hand injectors. I do have one injection press but it is only one color. It’s not faster than my presto pots and Twinjector. There’s not much in the middle for shooting baits. Not sure what route you want to take. And how many baits you want to make. With the big machine you will need to do productions runs and get custom molds. There is a clean up that will have to be done when changing colors. The other two systems will use smaller and more readily available molds. As you can see there are a lot of questions that need to be answered before you can get an idea of a machine.
  10. 2 points
    Or you can spend $60000.00 to start, and setup and run a business that can supply academy, walmart big boxes etc.
  11. 1 point
    I have both an Iwata Eclipse and and old Paasche (I think I got it for X-Mas in 1990). I found the Iwata to work really well doing fine details and feathering out light areas - but would need the paint to be just right (not to thick/not too thin) as it has a smaller tip diameter. My old Paasche I have the .5mm tip and I can put almost anything through it provided it isn't thick like glue! If you'r just doing very basic shading on a bait (base coat on sides / a top-back coat / a belly coat-color) and using stencils for small/fine details like striping/eyes - a basic airbrush with a bigger diameter tip will work for most of what you need - and provided you clean it when done - should work maintenance free. If your trying to very light/fine details and such - the smaller tip brush will work better like found on Iwata and other brands - but you'll have to be more precise with your paint viscosity and pressures, etc. You'll also need to be more diligent about cleaning and be careful with the needle/tip as drop it once the floor can/will ruin it (I speak from experience). For the majority of what I do - the old Paasche with a big tip works great... I even have my 8 year old use it to paint his pinewood derby car.... it's that friendly. J.
  12. 1 point
    I use craft paint you find at Walmart just thin it down with orange cleaner to the point of milk!
  13. 1 point
    Most eclipse models have a .35 mm tip. As well as ordering parts, I think you can send Iwata brushes to a repair facility for service. Don’t think this would be necessarily required on an Eclipse since the tip is not especially small compared to many other Iwata models whose tips really need to be professionally fitted to function right.
  14. 1 point
    Love making lures from wood! I feel like the home lure builders like myself slow down a bit in summer. More fishing less building and posting. It’s my winter past time. I totally agree with you Mark shaping and carving is fun and relaxing I’m working on a copy of my favourite soft bait. A Hybrid bulldawg type lure. I may have to Try the pvc, I really enjoy working with wood. But it is less predictable.
  15. 1 point
    Your brush wasn’t finicky. It was broken and needed repair to work properly. If you threw it against a wall in frustration, maybe airbrushing isn’t for you. The main thing building and finishing crankbaits taught me was patience. Stick with it and you’ll get that lesson over and over.
  16. 1 point
    Not to mention that the molds for a machine like that are $6k plus!
  17. 1 point
    If that is a canvas joint, it will only take 1 drop of finish to ruin the movement.....I am talking from my own experience. 1. brush on finish segment at a time. 2. spray on finish with masking tape or rubber bands to keep finish out of joints. My .02
  18. 1 point
    I'm sure you're right. I just stir and read the temp with my infrared thermometer because that is what I have.
  19. 1 point
    I do something similar. I use the sprue from some of my Do-it Molds.
  20. 1 point
    To be honest, sometimes the big production machine is more work then hand shooting. When you got to tear down and fix it etc, its real easy to waste a lot of materials quick as well trying to setup lams, firetails etc.. But you can produce numbers.
  21. 1 point
    Great topic and video ! Instead of cutting a sprue afterwards a worm weight works great for a sprue shape . Drill a small hole in the master jig head just big enough for a short piece of spinnerbait arm wire . Put the wire in the hole you drilled and slide the worm weight onto the wire up against the master . Check alignment to make sure it's straight for a clean parting line .
  22. 1 point
    This is great advice, I use the notes app on my phone, can put pics of the bait and a table with colorant info, glitter info, etc under the pic, works great!
  23. 1 point
    You have received some pretty good advice here. One thing I find important is to keep a notebook handy. Write down every measurement (oz plastisol, drops of colorant, types of glitter and how much). You may want to repeat a formula and I guarantee you won’t be able to remember them.
  24. 1 point
    yep, it just needs a flat spot to glue it to so an exacto knife can do that for you quickly
  25. 1 point
    you gotta give more info then that are you looking for doing production runs of dozens of different baits? are you just doing a dozen for personal use? are you looking to start a business selling lures? what sort of budget do you have for getting a complete bait making setup? go to youtube and watch the videos, then im sure you will have a better idea what you want and dont want you can spend $2000 and get set up to run a business or just spend $500 and be able to make your own baits for you and your friends
  26. 1 point
    I've read that, too. What I read was dyes have much finer particles, so they bleed, no matter what.
  27. 1 point
    go to youtube and watch all the videos there, most of your questions will be answered as well as things you havent thought about yet safety is the key and the biggest rookie mistake is trying to force plastic in too fast and having it squirt back on you, wear long sleeves and i recommend a cooking apron because hot plastic burns bad and if it gets on your shirt you cant get it off from touching your skin 4oz of plastic seems to be the normal amount made and thats enough to pour 6-12 baits depending on size, you want to create mix recipes for your baits so you have to mix the same every time to get repeatable results and uniform color baits color gets added and mixed in when cold but glitters get added at the end right before you pour even high heat glitters will melt if you get them hotter then 350 degrees and when remelting plastics use less heat and take your time getting it hot so you dont melt the glitter or burn the plastic lastly, salts are added to baits to make them sink and the salt makes the plastic weaker and it dulls the colors, also if you get a lot of bubbles in your plastic or popping and splattering after adding salt then the salt has too much moisture in it
  28. 1 point
    just make sure you arent buying a dye, if its a dye it will bleed no matter what they say about it
  29. 1 point
    Exactly, Mark.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Look at picture from the internet. It is pretty simple and doing it wrong should not be an issue. The only advice I have is make sure the lid is on right when you start don’t want to have it not sealed right. But you will know it when it is not right. If you are really in new Orleans your vacuum gauge should go to about 29.5 in. This will give you what you are looking for removing air. Pm me if you need anymore answers.
  32. 1 point
    Simply allows you to dilute the color without thinning. It will be the same mixture as their illustration line of paints just with no pigment. Allows for better control and smooth gradient color transitions.
  33. 1 point
    My best guess is airbrushing! Wayne
  34. 1 point
    Dito on the PVC.. its basically just waterproof wood, which makes it extremely convenient for testing and tuning long before a bait is finished It does seem like lure builders are far outnumbered by lure painters on here... nothing against em, i just recently got an airbrush and can now fully appreciate the amount of skill the painters hail.... but i still can't see a parallel in the satisfaction of a pretty paint job vs a great fishing handmade lure
  35. 1 point
    After roughing out blanks with a scroll saw, I hand shape them with a Dremel tool and a wood carving knife. Do I recommend hand shaping crankbaits? Not really. Good baits are symmetrical and it takes experience to do them right by hand. I’ve been “practicing” for 20+ years and hundreds of baits so know the techniques and patience required. It’s just the way I prefer to do it as a hobby builder.
  36. 1 point
    This is from the Spikeit site under the descriptions. All color info is here.
  37. 1 point
    thanks smalljaw and toadfrog, that is precisely the info I needed.
  38. 1 point
    I use VPI thinner with a lint free paper towel. I find you have to have the paper fair well saturated with thinner and keep folding it after each wipe or you'll end up smearing the paint on to the cleaned sections of the bait. Once you try it, you'll see that the VPI thinner will soften the plastic so it needs to be done with some amount of care. The lint free paper is important as regular paper towel or even worse kleenex will start sticking to the bait and fall apart. Once your bait is clean, its also prepped for paint as the VPI thinner makes the surface slightly sticky for great paint adhesion.
  39. 1 point
    Most of the stuff I turn on the lathe ends up being for others as so many that didn't fish much recall top waters from their parents or grandparents. I don't sell any lures anymore so mainly personal use. I have a lot of tackle so tend to hold back on some designs as already have more than I will use in the next 40 + years.
  40. 1 point
    Mainly make shallow cranks and top waters as much of my fishing now ends up being wading shallow creeks. Do make a few deeper diving cranks also but just don't fish near what I used to. I also like to make wooden sammy style top waters. I have turned several prop baits and poppers also. I use basswood (99.9% of the lures) then balsa, big tooth aspen, and paulowina.
  41. 1 point
    I also sell the bill material. Although I will admit LPO is way more tailored to the hand made stuff. https://dingerbaits.com/12x12-bill-material/
  42. 1 point
    Thanks for the link, Smalljaw, Iv'e been wantinh to order some dyed feathers, myself.
  43. 1 point
    The Iwata HPCS is an excellent brush and I use it for 70% of my work. Cant say anything about the quality and longevity of the compressor or the quality of the paint in that kit however. good price but if you price out the same brush, a California Air Tools compressor, sprayout pot and a selection of quality paint like Wicked you will be in the same range and have a compressor and paint that is of high quality. As far as cheap blanks go, Cedar Run Outdoors has some good ones, and excellent service
  44. 1 point
    Best value vacuum chambers are a good choice. But eBay has some for a reasonable price. About 120 on eBay. Just shop around before you pull the trigger there are some that may be misleading. Unless you spend a lot on a pump they are all imports.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I'll third that! My local glass shop let me come take a look and gave me all sorts of pieces of polycarbonate. In return I made them a larger lure for display with their company name on it, just for fun. They were so pumped, I have basically an unlimited source for lip material now! Another spot I have got some from is a plastic's distributor. They had a bunch of cut offs that they let me buy for cheap.
  47. 1 point
    yes sir, check with your local glass shops for scrap lexan/poloycarbonate. most shops will throw small pieces away as soon as it is cut, so talk with them.
  48. 1 point
    Glass guy in town gives me a deal on his cut off ends. Last time I got a 6ftx1ft and a bunch of other strips 2inch and wider of 1/8 for 5$
  49. 1 point
    Very nice video and showed the process neatly. Thank you for sharing it.
  50. 1 point
    You can spray them over anything, but to get the true color shift intended, they have to go over black. Makes for a pretty dark bait though. You can get really cool effects with other dark colors. I like to spray them over dark greens, reds, and blues. The combinations are endless. Over light colors, you get more of a standard pearl effect. I've found though, that it's much cheaper to add dry pearl pigment to clear base for those effects.
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