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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/03/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    All done ,thanks for everyone's input Atb Kanny
  2. 2 points
    You can soak wooden lure bodies overnight in a mixture of mineral spirits and Linseed oil to seal and remove them for a few days to dry out . You can then paint with oil based paints so I don't know why it wouldn't work for wood beads . I think the mix ratio is 9 parts mineral spirits to 1 part linseed oil from what I remember .
  3. 2 points
    If it's a new airbrush, send it back. If it's used, break it down completely and soak it overnight in Createx Airbrush Restorer. https://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Restorer
  4. 2 points
    This one drives me crazy because if it was in my hands it would take me less than a minute to figure it out lol A little tip to odd shaped baits is don’t over think the body and focus on the angle of the lip/face that catches the water. That is the most important because that is what creates the action. The body angle is not that important. The weight and buoyancy of the body has more impact then it angle. The kwik fish is designed so the fat ends buoyancy will counter the less buoyant front end. Remember built with plastic the lip would sink and the air cavity in the fat end is buoyant hope this makes sense I am still half asleep lol PS going by memory the kwik fish sits about 2/3 in the water lip down. When the bait is floating the hook hangers should create a relatively straight level line. I am pretty sure you’re tie point should be a little closer to the tip of the lip. Hope some of my half asleep ramblings make sense. Its easy for me to build but trying to type out how to do it is way harder for me
  5. 2 points
    Hooks are part of the weighting and yours are on the small side. This will also cause hook up issues I recommend up sizing this aside do you have a pic of it floating in the water? odds are if you can get your copy the float in the same angle as the original that will solve the balance/weighting. also adjust your tie point is another option remember you are trying to replicate a plastic lure using wood so adjustments are going to be needed to get close action wise What action are you getting? I am assuming it’s blowing out with the front lip over powering the lure Odds are if you balance it so it sits the same as the original it’s a matter of adjusting the tie point. If you are blowing out move it closer to the front of the lip. If you want more wiggle move it towards the body Hope that makes sense I am on nightshift for a few shifts so may not respond quickly if you have questions
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    A friend used to remodel hospitals. He got sheets from Xray rooms. I broke off the dry wall then used my fish cooker and a cast iron pot (outside) to melt it down and burn off the gunk. I poured it into ingots. It was really soft lead.
  8. 1 point
    also old shower pan liners and roofing material.
  9. 1 point
    I have some and have processed three or four 4x8’s. I took a high pressure spray washer after mine and some industrial degreaser. This took most of the old adhesive and drywall and whatever else is sticking on them off. You can use the most aggressive nozzle you have. The summer heat dries them out pretty quick. Take a shop hammer to them to lay them flat. once dry, I used a sheet metal scissor to cut them into strips and rolled the strips up to get the pieces manageable. Into an outside pot they went. Lots of flux and skimming off anything that comes up. Get upwind. After a pot of it is clean, ladle into a muffin pan where the ingots will fit in your pour pot. It will be good stuff. Mostly used in X-ray room construction.
  10. 1 point
    I have 300+ lbs of sheet lead and it's soft... I never saw any plastic on mine. Peel it off first if you can. If not, I'd melt it in a junk pot and pour ingots to use later in your good pot.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    im sure it is harder to do than it look.the previous message was more accurate,it look more like a canadian wiggler or a lazy ike. flat fish are more flat. one thing is sure these lures are not made to old 5 mph speed.my flat fish for sky got 3 sections.you have to buy 3 to make one,you need to cut the front part.once again it is really sweet.what's the length ?
  13. 1 point
    Copic markers are alcohol based ink and work well on lure bodies but I never tried them on bucktail. I'll mark some bucktail with the marker later on and let you know. I also have quick coat lure markers which use actual paint rather than ink. I would think they would be really colorfast but I don't know how the paint would go on the hair. I have quick coat lure markers, Copic markers, and sharpies and I always used a sharpie for that. Mostly because the jigs don't last long enough for the stripes wear off completely. Check back later on, I'll let you know how the markers go on the hair and I'll let them dry and see how each fades in the water side by side with the sharpie.
  14. 1 point
    I appreciate it Hillbilly my old baseball coach is a fly fishing guide around here, he's teaching me how to tie these big feather jigs based on your info. I will send you the pics of the Giant Smallmouth I'll be yanking off the ledges. Thanks again bud
  15. 1 point
    awesome.one of the best carnivorous lure ever made. look like a flat fish . how long ? do you got a video of the action ?
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    There's something else you can do with them. I'd tell you but I don't wast to get a cease and desist from the folks at the Z place. LOL
  18. 1 point
    Glad to hear it!! I made a change to the settings that is site-wide, not just for one or two specific members.
  19. 1 point
    There is the last steps a little late but there you go lol
  20. 1 point
    Let’s see if this works
  21. 1 point
    I do once in a while, but I'm normally to lazy and just toss them. LOL
  22. 1 point
    Do yourself a favor and get used to the search feature here, there are tons of comments about that subject, and most recently search "Hunting Action" this is everything you need to know and more, really great reading along with helpful insight. Sorry but it's truly the best advice I can give, it will be a treasure trove of information.
  23. 1 point
    I just started making some trough-wire caterpillar lures... What I've done so far is drill out a hole in the end of the bait that is at least as wide as the twisted wire. Then, I basically thread the wire on, pull the twisted end up into the bait far enough to pull the other twisted end down and then back it through so they are even. I'll try and get a video of this together soon, but I hope this makes some sense. Also, I chuckled when I read, "wife bender," before realizing how easy it is to make that typo!
  24. 1 point
    Looks great! Very serpentine.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I've thinned the front section down and removed the middle hook and its now running a lot better with a tighter wiggle, it will still blow out if you give it some but from what I remember they always did.
  27. 1 point
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  29. 1 point
    What temp are you shooting at? I shoot as cool as the mold will allow me. At lower temps the plastic is not quiet as thin which should help with your O ring issue. You may need to replace the O ring.
  30. 1 point
    Can’t type out an explanation right now getting ready for work soon but it’s not the body. The tail doesn’t wag the dog. The only thing the banana shape does is generate lift to the back end which helps create a wider wiggle
  31. 1 point
    The paint made for painting soft plastics is available from Spikeit ( lureworks). They offer a water based version which like you said needs to have a top coat but does not need to be dipped. You can clear with there solvent based version. The reason for this is not to protect the colors it is to keep them from sticking together. There water based paint will do that. With the solvent based will not require the top coat but will let you know that a respirator will be needed. It has a smell that will clear out your garage when you smell it. Now don’t get me wrong anytime you atomize anything you should wear a respirator. For holding your baits it’s is a good idea to leave on the Sprue to hold the nose and possibly just that might work for you. If not I have used long finishing nails In a piece of wood to pierce the belly of the bait. If it has a hook slot the a piece of sheet metal with an angle bent like a t will be another option. One thing that is over looked and causes more trouble than anything else is the airbrush. Most airbrushes come with a needle that is to small and dries on the tip which causes it to clog. You mentioned you bought a master airbrush. That has to be my go to airbrush even though I have some really high end ones. The reason for this is that it has a huge needle (.8) and will spray any of these paint with ease. Some might say that’s to big but it is adjustable so I turn it down when I need and up to give me more fluid. So in my experience that is the most important thing to have. Unless you like cleaning your airbrush more than actually using it. I have painted for the public and just for me so not sure if there’s any difference other than what I just stated.
  32. 1 point
    Welcome , you came to the right place lots of good info here.
  33. 1 point
    Newbie04 I have sent you a message about some molds I have to sell.
  34. 1 point
    Been using tin foil for years just make sure to remove it before baking the heads
  35. 1 point
    Looking at the shape of the front section, the middle of the bait is the highest point, and the ends are the lowest, meaning you have buoyancy low (the ends) and weight high (the middle). My thought is to distribute your weight more to the ends, but not necessarily the same at each end. You might need more to the front and less to the back. It might even mean using a less dense wood, so that you can have a greater difference in density from top to bottom.
  36. 1 point
    I know Worth doesn’t post their price on gold plated as the price of gold is ever changing and mostly up. They do post their prices per thousand but they don’t make you buy a thousand. They just charge a small fee for quantities less than 1K. Just give them a shout and they’ll be glad to fill you in on the cost. It’s been awhile since I bought from them so I can’t recall exactly what that fee is but it’s nominal IIRC.
  37. 1 point
    One thing that has struck me is how stable the rear section is and when you look at its construction one thing is blindingly clear, the weight is at both ends!
  38. 1 point
    Half asleep at work just noticed I forgot to consider the buoyancy of the wooden lip vs being plastic. The weight will be more forward nightshift messes up my train of thought. I will be smarter in 5days lol
  39. 1 point
    @DGagner if you look at my designs they almost all have a curve to them. The real trick is carve with balance in mind and the kwik fish design does this. You can accomplish balance with curved baits with no weight if you design it right Odds are the weight goes between the 1st and 2nd hook 1/3 behind the first hook. But I need to float test to really know
  40. 1 point
    I've found that making any weight bowed that way make issues in orientation. Think about it. If you drop a feather that is bowed it will always turn so the bow is facing down (the middle is lowest). Do the same thing with something in the water and it's the same. I've found that even some of my hard swimbaits that have an arch to them have difficulty staying upright. I need to weight them more than I'd like to keep them stable. And the more it's arched the higher the weight usually is as it's in the highest point of the arch. Lures like this look really good but I've not been making them like this any longer for that reason. It is possible but boy it's not easy. Here's an example of one that I've had issues with, and it's not arched much either. They all tend to want to ride in the water like skis. Lemmee know if you find a solution.
  41. 1 point
    Nice How is your paddle tail version treating you?
  42. 1 point
    So to update my log here, I am finding the one step diamond clear to be not too terrible to work with, haven't put it up against a salmon yet due to work but the "hot bite" season for kings on Huron is upon us, I will let you know how the diamond coat and the 2 step high coat rod epoxy hold up. (if I can get bit that is!) I have purchased a bulk lot of various glows/transparent/opaque powder coats and powder paint guns. I will let you know how that works out. I recommend to anyone that does not want to mess with setting up a paint gun for minor paint alterations that the paint markers do an OK job, I'm not the neatest person so it looks like a 5 year old did it, but if you take your time and learn the amount of paint that comes out you can easily add a colour stripe to your lure without having to paint it on. Markers come in opaque and transparent so you can get the desired results.What I did is this (1) cover the portion of the lure you do not want altered with paint tape (soda will not go through tape) (2) soda blast area, rinse off with de-mineralized water (not tap water, tap water has fluoride and chlorine and other stuff in it that can interfere with the bonding process and leave scaling) (3) remove tape and wet sand entire area with 400 ish sand paper (this will allow your paint to bite in to the entire area to be clear coated) (4) if you end up on metal then etch it with clear if you want metal or white/grey for paint bite and allow to dry for 24hrs (5) with gloves on and mask on, wipe down area with mineral spirits (this is to remove all waxes, oils and other things that will stop the bonding from occurring), mineral spirits will evaporate very quickly, only do this in well ventilated area (6) now you have a spoon with a good surface, you can not take out your paint marker and add your colour, different paint types take different times to dry, follow instructions for second coats and such. If you are adding a fluorescent or you want a vibrant colour you need to background it with white to make it pop. (7) once you are happy with colour then clear it again and allow to dry, if your paint is not dry the clear will make it run, each clear has a set up time and a dry time, follow your instructions, I put 2 coats on all my lures, I give 2 hours if ambient temp is 25C and low humidity and up to 6 hrs if 20ish and high humidity, if you leave your clears too long the second coat can't chemically bond to the first. Good Luck Saugeen
  43. 1 point
    I actually just saw one on the bay site!
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Used maple for this one, and added a bunch of lead near the front for a very head heavy sinking action. I corkscrewed a wire out the back and added a 'bulldawg' style soft tail. I wanted a lure that falls straight up and down more than others on the market. Lots of the full soft plastics seem to glide and sink slower. And also, I wanted to try something! It works well!
  46. 1 point
    I think we are talking about different buzzbait blades. I was talking about the standard old aluminum delta blade, there is no plastic on it. I know there are plastic blades but too much friction on those would probably stop them from spinning.
  47. 1 point
    Welcome to the board!!!! I prefer .052" diameter wire because buzzbaits need to be durable and I never had an issue with that size wire. I never thought that the wire diameter played a part in the sound but after reading your post I think you could very well be right. I always scored the rivet with a utility knife, I can't tell you how many knife blades I've gone through but I bet that amount could easily stock a mid size hardware store. Anyway, scoring the rivet seems to work, I've tried using sand paper and files to rough up the surface of the rivet but the results were always different. The easiest way to test that theory would be to make identical size baits with identical components with the only difference being wire diameter, this could be an interesting project.
  48. 1 point
    I have only just found this forum, but felt compelled to have my say! I am based in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Humidity is normally quite low due to the altitude. I used to have exactly the same issues as BrunZ320 until I tried 2 things that worked. I tried more than 5 different epoxies that all blistered and bubbled until I found Crystal Clear Epoxy from www.eastcoastresin.com, which is the easiest I have ever tried. It doesn't seem to matter if it has been handled without gloves or if there any contaminants on the lure surface. However, I find that if, after painting is completed and left to dry overnight, I airbrush a coat or two of Varathane Triple Thick Clear Finish diluted with 20% water (It is an acrylic product), it provides the perfect key for Crystal Clear epoxy. I let the final coating dry for 24 hours before painting on the epoxy. Beautiful high gloss perfect results every time using using a cheap barbecue spit with 2.5 rotations a minute. I got the idea of using this mid-coat from Engineered Angler on YouTube, he is amazing!
  49. 1 point
    simple fix, cut off the rest of the part they chewed, very carefully so as to not nick the blank,(it doesnt have to be perfect, just the big chunks) then order a rear grip from anglers workshop, longer than the damaged area, cut to correct length, ream out the new handle with a rat tailed file so it slides on snugly,(the rod tapers is opposite of the way the handle is usually put on, but epoxy will fill the void) coat the area with epoxy, slide the new part on, clean the excess off and set handle down and let dry.. good as new. lots of videos on you tube to help out
  50. 1 point
    I looked into the patent stuff... VERY EXPENSIVE. You would have to have a patent attorney as well. The bad thing is, unless you fork out even more money, your patent isn't internationally protected. hmmm... Keep in mind the big 2 lure manufacturing countries are China & Mexico. The other sad thing is, if a big company wants your bait it will get it. They can afford to keep you occupied in court while they rip your lure off. I know this sounds discouraging, but I have seen this happen. I would suggest a non-disclosure agreement of some sorts and only reveal it to those that sign the form. However, if your lure has already been presented to the public a non-disclosure holds no ground. To my understanding, jcheetam is right about what you can copyright. I really don't know any genuine advice to give you. In my opinion, If you can afford a patent and the company your selling too will pay you enough to make it worth your while, then yes I would get a patent. I knew a guy that patented a unique jig head. He said it cost 15K for the whole process. The guy was well off, bought the patent, and actually made some money selling the patent.
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