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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    If you have a blank body and a fully assembled body with all hardware attached, and a gram scale, then it is possible to calculate the weight of micro-balloons required to add to the resin mix in order to achieve neutral density. a gram scale with 0.01g increment would be nice, but 0.1g would definitely get you close. The solution is complicated and so I have written a spreadsheet to make it simple. You will need to read up the post on Archimedes dunk test but it is really not difficult, as others who have tried it will tell you. If you or anyone would like to try the spreadsheet then PM me your email address and I will send it. Dave
  2. 2 points
    I have done a lot of work on ballast calculators in the past. I have never offered them up for use by TU members because I considered them complicated and clumsy. This one however, I consider to be very slick and versatile. You can enter data from a first prototype and it will calculate how much ballast you need to add or subtract to achieve the buoyancy that you desire, be it slow sink, neutral or float. Boxes 1 and 2 are merely to collect data on the body material in order to obtain the material density. Boxes 3 and 4 are measured from a completed lure with hardware, hooks and topcoat. Box 5 is your desired buoyancy, 100% = neutral buoyancy. Box 6 is the density of the ballast. This can be changed if not using lead. The calculation takes into account the body material removed or added to make room for the ballast. PM your email to me if you would like to try this spreadsheet. Dave
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Urethane will hold up just fine. It does kind of depend on the type urethane your using but get that debate started and you will be deployed before it's over. Your not married to the bait. Clearcoat it and enjoy! Safe travels and cone home safe from deployment. From one veteran to another thank you for your service!
  5. 2 points
    .Empty .22 short cartridge with 3-#9 TSS Tungston shot. Pull the end cap out a #9 TSS shot shell to get the shot. Regards, Blades
  6. 2 points
    I use copper fittings for plumbing to make a chamber.
  7. 2 points
    We all use different top coats. I like D2T so about an hour is more than enough. If you have a basic workshop, it is very easy to set up a simple turner. Do some reading, buy a slow motor and get stuck in. It is strangely rewarding to see your work turning Dave
  8. 2 points
    There we go someone smarter then me has arrived
  9. 2 points
    I pour pure resin layer for the belly and then a second layer balloon/resin mix. I don’t use any lead but instead just increase the size of the pure resin layer vs balloon/resin layer till I get the my bait to sit where I want in the water column. Note you results and you can repeat all future baits
  10. 2 points
    Personally I use the same resin micro balloon ratio(would have to check my notes) I use for my floaters and just increase my ballast pure resin layer till I get what I am looking for way too many factors with hook/hardware and lure shape to give you a ratio that would work without trial and error I don’t doubt the knowledge here and there are those with way more experience then me but you might be stuck experimenting
  11. 1 point
    I use the baking soda and superglue as Nathan stated when the lure will have a white belly. Baking soda and superglue dries to an off-white color and doesn't leave a shadowy spot beneath white paint. If I am filling a deeper hole, I fill it partially with baking soda, add the glue, let dry and repeat until I get built up. It dries real quick. I use epoxy on baits that will have a non-white belly. I typically will mix sawdust in with the epoxy. I have a couple of ziplock bags of saw dust of different types of wood collected from when I clean my belt sander. If I have a big hole to fill, say due to moving the ballast to a different spot, I will make a plug out of a small dowel and epoxy or glue it in. Likewise, If I put an screw eye in the wrong place, if will fill that with superglue and a toothpick, trim flush and seal with more superglue.
  12. 1 point
    Try filling the area with backing soda...Then kinda of smooth it out and add thin super glue..(Not jel..you want it to penetrate the baking soda).. let dry and sand smooth..Nathan
  13. 1 point
    Epoxy works for me. Fill it just a little proud of the lure and then sand it flush.
  14. 1 point
    My last orders were placed the end of March, but I didn't buy direct from Shelts I ordered through Aliexpress. The advantage of going through Aliexpress is they will intervene if there is a problem. You can file a dispute. I ordered some lures from a different company and wasn't getting them. At 60 days I filed a dispute. The company came back with the excuse I had to remember the lures had to come from a long way and it was free shipping. I told them don't give me that excuse I buy from other companies from China and all orders come within 30 days. Plus I paid extra for E Packet shipping since it usually makes it in two weeks. Five days later Aliexpress stepped in and said I wasn't getting any satisfaction so they would return my money. It was back in my account within 24 hours of their e mail. I believe Aliexpress holds the money until you confirm you have received the goods and are satisified, then they release the funds to the company you ordered from. One thing on Shelts after the move to Aliexpress. Delivery seems to have slowed, and the free eyes are gone. Usually it was 2 weeks for delivery, my last orders were closer to 30 days. Also on my last order I ordered surface lures that had a propeller, but the propeller was missing. I left a message through Aliexpress. I didn't get a response right away and left a second message telling them I didn't want to open a dispute since I'd bought many lures from Shelts with no problem. Still no response to I tried one more time, this was over the course of a week. Third time I got a response, they figured out what I needed and said they'd send them out immediately. I had the missing propellers 5 days later. Hope you get your problem taken care of.
  15. 1 point
    Not to mention trashing a good bait!
  16. 1 point
    Dave, that is amazing!!..Thank you!!...Nathan
  17. 1 point
    All I use is E Tex. The only problem I ever had was small dust particles landing on the lures when they are turning because it takes a while to dry. Years ago I started putting newspaper on the floor under the rotisserie and wetting it with a spray bottle before I do the mixing. problem solved. I brush it on very thin and normally do 2 coats. Great product as far as I'm concerned.
  18. 1 point
    Vodkaman, i was able to use your calculator on my first ever pours this morning. I got a sinking, very slow sinking, and floating flat sided crankbait with only adding a very small amount of lead to stabilize it! Super awesome and easy to use! Seriously one of the most helpful tools I’ve come across since i started making baits!
  19. 1 point
    Good to know! And from an active duty to a vet, thank you for paving the way! jake
  20. 1 point
    I wish! Lol i live on post so my “workshop” is two folding tables on the front porch, a few tools, an airbrush, and a bunch of paint lol. But i just order some diamond clear coat and I’ve heard of people dipping that and hanging a wire off the bottom to keep it from pooling so i think I’ll give that a try and see how it goes!
  21. 1 point
    Be sure the rounds have already been shot. Otherwise, you can get a really loud, onetime rattle. Hahaha
  22. 1 point
    The working time is very long. Some experienced users let it sit for 10-15 minutes after mixing to get the thickness they want to apply. The rotation time needed is also longer, perhaps twice that of D2T. Users report it is more prone to fisheyes, so you should be careful not to get grease or oil on the bait before application.
  23. 1 point
    I would appreciate it if all those that requested copies of the ballast calculator brought feedback and suggestions of improvements to the table, either by PM or posted here. Many thanks for the encouraging response. Dave
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I like it I get to do some shooting and solve my problem Win Win
  27. 1 point
    For a sinking stick worm I like the MF Soft Sinking. It doesn't require quite as much salt as the Super Soft which is slightly buoyant. I feel like the MF-Soft Sinking with 0.25:1 salt gives me the same fall rate as .33:1 Super Soft and is a slightly more durable bait with close to the same flexibility since it has less salt to stiffen it up. The thing is everybody has a different feel for it. Ultimately you may just need to try some things. I can only tell you what I like. I can't tell you what you will like.
  28. 1 point
    I've made a few injectors, and I've found smaller diameter ones seem to inject easier. Maybe its just my workmanship since I don't make them everyday, but I've made a few. I never planned to make any injectors at all, but I had a similar situation. I made a mold for a customer and at the last minute he asked me where to get an injector big enough to fill it. Oops. LOL. I made three of them, and took all the best parts to make the one I sent him with his mold. Back then Bass Tackle didn't have one big enough to fill his mold. I haven't used every injector out there, but I have used a bunch of them and like I said in my other post I send my own mold customers to Bass Tackle to buy injectors. Ha! The picture of the two I kept from that batch is still posted here. LOL.
  29. 1 point
    I've used injector from a number of places, and I am partial to Bass Tackle. Most are good, but I just like the Bass Tackle ones better. I even send my own customers over there for injectors when they ask. I could make injectors, but they do such a nice job its not worth it for me.
  30. 1 point
    I have been told that Polysol remelts at a slightly lower temperature than some other plastics. If that is true it might be a good choice for those first colors. I never really tried it for that. Chad sent me some samples and they are good plastic, but other than testing some simple baits I didn't do much else with it.
  31. 1 point
    When I was looking for a large injector basstackle didn’t have one listed and did not respond to a couple emails asking about the 10oz availability. It’s still not on the site. I would have probably gotten one of those, but glad I got the quality injector since it’s much shorter than the basstackle and looks less awkward to handle (IMO)
  32. 1 point
    make sure you do not suck air into the injector when filling it .
  33. 1 point
    if the lures are not going to be air brushed you can use any acrylic paint. As for clear coat, i would say any type of non-yellowing epoxy. most guys in the states use E-tex, Devcon 2-ton or BSI 30 min for epoxies. least toxic way to o things for the kids.
  34. 1 point
    honestly not a terrible idea lol
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I watch a video with a coated lure by my side, clamped in a pair of Spencer-Wells artery clamping forceps. I up-end the lure every 5 minutes and get pretty good results. It is very little effort having gone to the trouble of building the lure in the first place. It is just a part of the process. Dave
  37. 1 point
    I've been using MF super soft for 20 years for hand POUR and last 8 years injection. However I've been testing some Dead on Plastic Floating worm and finesse PLASTIC , pretty nice stuff. It has more good quality's then Mf. IMO Purchase a sample pack. You won't be disappointed.
  38. 1 point
    I’ve been playing with vinyl stretch chrome, same used on cars. It can produce some fantastic results, but it can also be finicky getting it to lay down and stick.
  39. 1 point
    I suspect that you are scraping the sides of the cup when making the final pour. This is bad practice as you pick up unmixed resin. It is better to mix a little extra so that you do not have to scrape. I do understand your problems with only 2.5 minutes for mixing. I prefer a longer cure resin and mix the MBs in after mixing parts A & B. But not possible with such a short time. Dave
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Here are three examples of the application, aiming for neutral buoyancy. In each case the ballast adjustment is shown in the green box. It looks like the ballast adjustment values don’t add up, but this is because the material removed for the ballast hole(s) is taken into consideration. I measured and weighed a block of the body material: 1.5cm x 1.5cm x 4xm = 9cm³ Weight = 2.39g. EX1 – a completed lure with 10g ballast installed. volume (Archimedes) = 21.2 cm³. weight = 18.79g. EX2 – a completed lure with no ballast installed. volume (Archimedes) = 21.2 cm³. weight = 8.79g. EX3 – a completed lure with 16g ballast installed. volume (Archimedes) = 21.2 cm³. weight = 24.79g.
  42. 1 point
    I have a 12oz from them and it’s great ( other than the o-rings), quality construction, heats up quickly and keeps the heat nicely.
  43. 1 point
    Sounds like the hardner is not getting mixed in enough. I have seen two types of hardner . The paste like type like Calhoun’s plastic and the almost watered down hardner like MnF . The watered down one is easy to mix in but takes more.also I I believe they add heat stabilizer to it . Which there’s nothing wrong with .Where as the paste type is a PIA to mix in and when I use it I add Heat stabilizer to it . If I done mix the crap out of it , it does what you’re describing .
  44. 1 point
    Never add hardener during heating. Always add to cold virgin plastic and mix thoroughly. If that is what your doing and it is not mixing then something is going on. Whose plastic are you adding the hardener to?
  45. 1 point
    Have you tried turning the hook and the wire over. I think the hook is facing the wrong way in your picture. The point of the hook should be on the hinge side of the mold or at least this is the way that I pour my spinnerbaits.
  46. 1 point
    yes,, stir it in til completely dissolved in the cold plastic. stir, stir and stir more .
  47. 1 point
    Are you mixing the hardener in with the regular plastisol? If you have an 8 oz batch I would add 1oz of hardener and mix well before heating.
  48. 1 point
    I did use garlic scented worm oil. The dye I used was M-H from Lurepartsonline. The color I was using was red and blue to get a translucent pink. I've seen baits fade, but never have I ever seen them go as clear as glass.
  49. 1 point
    Most guys who use Iwata brushes really like them. To me, the right brush is determined by the tip size you need. Iwatas can be had in truly tiny tip sizes but which size do you need? A .2 mm tip HP can paint very fine lines if your skill and control is up to the task and if you are shooting properly thinned paint. But it isn’t ideal for thicker pearls and flakes. Maybe you can use your Badger 150 for that and a small tip Iwata for finer work. If you want to stick with one brush for everything, an Iwata Revolution BR (.3 mm) or Eclipse (.35 mm) will do it all. One thing you will notice: the smaller the tip size, the more expensive the airbrush and the more costly the repair parts if needed. And the smaller the tip, the more exactly the brush needs to be fitted to use it, so be extra careful with those fine tipped brushes.
  50. 1 point
    Has anyone tried this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RS6Z4D/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A2DN1G625QLW3W&psc=1
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