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  1. Vodkaman

    Vodkaman

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    Hillbilly voodoo

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    exx1976

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  4. JD_mudbug

    JD_mudbug

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/20/2021 in all areas

  1. Gained about $2000 or more in sales last year just by giving away a handful of blemish lures at lakes that cost me maybe $100 in materials. It’s even better when the father of the kid calls me to buy some lures because his kid out fished him that day. Nothing sells lures better then fisherman seeing them catch fish I tell every kid that I give a lure to it’s their lure and Dad is not allowed to use it Think of it as investing in advertisement
    5 points
  2. JD - The spherical domain enclosed by the tall man's spell of 4πr³/3 is an intriguing and fascinating subject. It is the simplest shape and yet the most difficult to carve. I have actually experimented with spherically derived shapes and the resulting actions are interesting. If you pull a sphere through water you get a pure spiral action. I do most of my cranial development work while sleeping, so you could say that I work in an alternative universe Dave
    4 points
  3. You are correct and many would find making baits is a losing endeavor if they put any dollar value on their time. Building cranks one off is about the least efficient way to make cranks. Multiples pay off as less time is wasted setting up tools, measurements, etc.. Some aspects are rather quick so may just knock out a bunch of blanks for future use. May take 30 minutes and drill all the hook hanger and belly weights, etc.. (jig holds the blank in position on drill press). I will just keep blanks in plastic shoe boxes or shallow tool box trays in different stages. If ti
    4 points
  4. People do not buy hand made baits because they are cheap, they buy because the lure is unique and of the highest quality. Your bait has to gain a reputation for catching MORE fish than the chunk of plastic on the shelf at Walmart. Yes, you need a pro angler on board who believes in your lure. A Kevin Van Dam is not going to get the job done, people will not attribute his success to the lure but to the man himself. I would take my lure to a struggling pro, get him to try the lure, prove that it is a fish magnet, then you can both retire on the lure's success. Only my opinion; cha
    4 points
  5. Yea, if it isn't right I for sure don't sell it. They go into my tackle box, or a close friend to use and test. If it has my name on it and I sell it, I want it to have good finish. Otherwise, you will be selling all your lures for discount, or other potential customers will see a sub par product. I like the idea of giving them to kids, but yea as a musky lure maker that might be tough lol. Honestly, I don't make/paint tons of lures, so I will usually take the messed up lures, and start over with it. Put a different paint job on it, or experiment with it. I have a bunch of lures on my "
    3 points
  6. ... ... If anyone needs a tester* in northern Illinois you just let me know! *said tester is not a professional and has absolutely no social media presence outside a YouTube channel with 2 subscribers. Said tested is also has a very poor quality camera and cannot guarantee any good photographs of the successful use of your lure. Said tester has 4 sons who are very energetic and enthusiastic about fishing, but not particularly focused (especially the 2 month old).
    3 points
  7. I make 5 to 10 at a time and I make them out of resin I do very little wood other that the first one for testing. Although I like wood better some guys will only fish wood I make mostly musky baits. Wayne
    3 points
  8. On my scale 1 - 6" Senko 16 grams 5 - 6" Senkos 79 grams
    2 points
  9. I sold my lures at the Musky Show for 30 to 35.00 I also had a hard time selling on ebay for 5.00 so I just stopped and took a look at what and how I was doing my lures. Will come out with some new lures by early summer. Will have two types I will get rid of all my plastic lures which I purchased paint and sell and go back to 6" and bigger 9" to 12" out of wood which I enjoy and stay away from e-bay and find other means of selling maybe go back to my own web site not sure about face book. I also would like to do flea markets just to talk lure making with the guys. If this virus ever gets ove
    2 points
  10. Hopefully, this will make some of you feel better. The following is not legal advice or meant to be political in away. As for the FET- It sucks that others cheat the system. Cheating the tax man drives up the rates for everyone else no matter what tax you’re talking about. The tax enforcement right now is lax so more people tend to cheat. Enforcement levels come and go in cycles. Proving a tax case can be rather easy (see Al Capone). If you get caught once, you can be doomed. Generally, there is no statute of limitations if no return is filed or if intent to defraud is established. S
    2 points
  11. An interesting thought, but as I mentioned - the lures are otherwise identical, save for paint. Looking at it from the consumer side, I'm not sure I see how that would be differentiated. Do you happen to have an example of such a lure? I have purchased an excessive amount of lures through the years. At one point, I had over 10k lures organized in boxes and inventoried on spreadsheets. So hopefully, I can provide a viewpoint as a consumer I have seen paint price ‘differentials’ numerous times on custom baits as wells some mass produced baits. It doesn’t bother me. Lucky Craft
    2 points
  12. I have testers in 3 provinces and multiple regions for a reason
    2 points
  13. Dave, in an alternate reality, I see you working with the Tall Man from Phantasm. 'I think those spheres could be improved a bit'.
    2 points
  14. Carving out of wood I could never do it because I am not efficient enough Molding and pouring is another story. Like others have said building in batches makes a difference. What I will do is pour blanks at random needed or not. Even when painting baits I paint extra in popular patterns. this makes it easier to provide a batch or sell a few baits because odds are I have a some complete or partially complete lures ready to go one thing I have also had to except is some designs are not cost effective to sell or involve too much effort to be worth while. You have to be realistic a
    2 points
  15. The line tie ends up passing through that area. Some of the blanks have the line tie inserted (not glued in yet) and you can see it passing through the empty slot.
    2 points
  16. Dave says "nerdy". I say "sexy". @Vodkaman you are amongst nerd friends here:) The nerdier the better:)
    2 points
  17. Kid can mean teenager. I hand out lures according to the person fishing. Adults get them too I build mostly for pike and lake trout because I am in western Canada. As of last year some of my lures have found their way to Ontario for musky. I build baits between 4-1/2 to 8inch not big by musky standards but not little baits either not what most consider little kid lures Something to consider if you have designs that work well for other species besides musky don’t ignore that possible customer base either way the principal applies using blemished baits to expose your lures
    2 points
  18. I understood it with the hand in the water example. It's definitely counter intuitive.
    2 points
  19. Often to understand a function or concept you have to take the idea to extremes. I offer up a ball and dinner plate analogy. The spherical ball can be forced through the water with very little effort, but the flat plate requires a relatively HUGE effort to move through the water even though the diameters are the same. It is natural to think that water resistance is caused by the weight or force of the water trying to get out of the way of the object, the water pressing on the lip as it is pulled through the water. The actual truth is a most unnatural concept to grasp which is why
    2 points
  20. It's not about cutting through the water, it's about creating turbulence. Dave posted a Vortex Shedding video that illustrates this. A few nights ago, I got curious, and I also found videos for vortex shedding around a square (not as violent) and vortex shedding around a cylinder (even less violet). I'm certainly no physicist, but in layman's terms, the more time the water has to "smooth back out", in the case of the square, with it's (relatively) much longer sides than a fishing lure lip, or with a cylinder, with it's gradual water splitting and recombining, both produce vortices that
    2 points
  21. Lip function – to create the vortices that cause the lure’s waggle action. It is fact that a sharp edge causes a stronger vortex than a blunt edge. This would suggest that a thin lip would be better, BUT, the knife edge can be achieved with a chamfer. Bending – lip materials do bend. The bending is a function of material thickness, free length, width and the mechanical properties of the material. How much bending is acceptable? Is some bending desirable? Weight distribution – obviously the thicker the lip then the more the COG of the lure is affected. The thicker lip dra
    2 points
  22. Congrats on getting the belt sander. I would go with .093 on a 5.5" lure unless it is going to be over 2 oz. or have a long lip. From the other post: Generally, I go with .093" Lexan for small lures 4" to 6.5" usually under 1.5 ounces. I go with 1/8" (.125") Lexan for bigger lures 6.5" to 11" that range from 1.5 to 3.5 ounces. For lures bigger or heavier than those, I go with 3/16" Lexan. Lures near the gray areas in between those ranges may get a thicker or thinner lip depending on the way the lure will be fished and the size of the lip. If the lip is going to be a long lip, I us
    2 points
  23. I only make lures for myself and a couple of buddies, so probably doesn't apply to most of you. If I have a lure that doesn't work, or that didn't come out the way I had planned, I take the hardware off and give them to my 2 year old grandson. Rattling baits are his preference.
    2 points
  24. Weight placement isn't something any of us are really going to be able to tell you. You're going to need to make several baits of the same design, and put weight in different places on all of them and see how you like the action. One lure might do great with weight right in the middle, one might do great with a single weight towards the front, another might do great with two weights evenly spaced apart, another might need more toward the front than the rear.. Also depends on what type of action you're looking for as to where you place the lead. Further, you're going to need to be very
    2 points
  25. I personally use .093 inch polycarbonate on my lures. It seems to be the right thickness for a good action, however I am relatively new to bait making so it might not be the best. To find where to put the weight I usually lightly hold the bait in between my thumb and middle finger as close to the center as possible, usually you will notice it will tip one way or the other because you are not perfectly in the center of mass. I then adjust my fingers until it balances out and put the weight there. Hope This Helps!
    2 points
  26. If they are too bad I rob what useful parts I can Mild blemish I fish them and give them away as testers. I often give away lures to kids at the dock as well. I carry cards in my truck and boat as well Giving away blemished lures has resulted in lots of customers I would never sell a blemished bait because I want paying customers to get quality
    2 points
  27. The blending block has done a swirl for me when I did not want it. Use to have plenty of blems to prove it. With a little practice you can get great results.
    2 points
  28. Tomato/potato.... It's actually called a blending block. Its primary purpose is for shooting laminates but you can also get it to do other things as Frank has explained.
    2 points
  29. There are a good number of ready-made lips available from commercial suppliers. However, not always the EXACT ones we are looking for. I just had the good fortune of figuring out a better way to get lips made. As some of you know, I'm working with G10. .031" is a bit too thin for my application, but I didn't know how much thicker to go. So I ordered some .062", some .093", and some .125". I just dropped them off at a local fab shop that has a waterjet and they are going to cut lips from each sheet for me and get them back to me tomorrow. I was also speaking with them about the p
    2 points
  30. When using a dual injector system with two colors it works great only because both colors are real close to the same temperature( within 10 deg). If one is hotter it will swirl and mix with the colder one. Believe me when you Get a two color system you will find it will work. I would suggest you get a Twinjector from Basstackle. It will be an investment that will pay dividends in the end for you. A life long tool that will make your life much better than putting a kit together and be miserable. I would not tell you this if it did not work.
    2 points
  31. You don’t need a cblock. Just make one hotter than the other.
    2 points
  32. If you buy someone’s twin injector just make one color hotter than the other. It will make what you are describing. Nothing else to buy. I am sure a lot of us have gotten that when we did not want to.
    2 points
  33. Good plan. I liked 10 at a time. The advantage is that you become more skilled at each operation, with an appropriate improvement in time. This will sound 'nerdy' but you need to do a time and motion study on yourself. You will be amazed with the time that can be picked up with secondary movements like tool placement; by placing the wire cutters in the same place on the bench every time, then no time is lost searching for the tool. By placing the tool on the bench at a certain angle, the tool can be picked up and ready for use without the need for a juggling act. If you record the re
    2 points
  34. Good comments. Keep searching for that bit extra that will make your lure more desirable than the rest. I know, it is not easy chasing rainbows, but not impossible either. If you don't chase the rainbow then you are unlikely to stub your toe on the pot of gold Dave
    2 points
  35. If you saw my last post, I ended up going with a belt sander. With my jigsaw and Dremel I can get rough cuts and then quickly sand whatever it is to perfection. I decided to try the belly cut through wire and it seems like it will work out. A few questions. How thick of lexan would you use? The bait is 5.5 inches. Also where would you put the lead? It is German Beech so it’s a hard wood. TIA
    1 point
  36. Thanks guys. I poured some yesterday and didn't remember my exact ratio of plastic to gbm. They came out at 17g so I was pretty close.
    1 point
  37. The photo to add @fern is the work of Ireneusz Urbanek. I added photos of my works
    1 point
  38. Agreed. And you're mostly right about my target. My target is "musky fishermen who want a QUALITY lure at a (relatively) reasonable price" (or an extremely competitive one, anyway). There are plenty of guys out there with INCREDIBLE looking lures (with screw eyes!) that do limited (<500 units/yr) runs and command $200+ per lure - and get it. I'm fully capable of admitting that my paint skills are not of that caliber (yet, anyway). I've spent $50 for off-the-shelf lures that ended up being total pieces of crap. I've spent $30 for plastic lures that had paint flake off after 10 cast
    1 point
  39. For myself too complicated often is a result of construction not paint. Personally I don’t get into the designer paint jobs. But I am a firm believer in action and profile over paint job when it comes to fishing My opinion when it comes to paint I calculate my time for both simple and complicated designs to create a base price. If the design is so complicated that it takes too much time you need to question if it is worth the effort You also need think about who is your target fisherman. There is a smaller customer base that will pay more for a designer paint job vs a lure that is
    1 point
  40. This is currently my biggest struggle - "some designs". For me, this means paint. To reiterate, the hope is that the more I paint, the more practice I get, the more efficient I will become. However, some paint schemes are taking me much, much longer than other paint schemes - twice as long, in some cases. I'm not sure how the market would react to two "identical" examples of the same model of lure selling for two different prices based solely on paint alone. I guess I'll find out?
    1 point
  41. ( PART 2 - having trouble posting) $318 * 60% = $190.80 190.80 / 1.1 = 173.4545454545454545 173.46 * 10% = $17.346 As you can plainly see, $17.346 != $18 (which is the correct amount of tax due!) I have the correct formula for you. Only took a minute with some... 6th grade, maybe? math to figure it out: Selling price - ((selling price * 100) / 106) Proof: 318 - ((318 * 100 = 31800) / 106 31800 / 106 = 300 318 - 300 = 18 Viola. Math, it's a wonderful thing. Hopefully no one has been bitten by this, and if you HAVE been bitt
    1 point
  42. If someone honestly is on the fence about buying a bait then likely not going to be a repeat dependable customer. Fish them yourself or give to friends/family. Same token I may be picky compared to others. I picked these up several years ago from a popular bait maker than was getting some press. At 15 a pop I found some of the fit/finish to be sloppy.
    1 point
  43. I just want to say thanks to all sponsors, creators, moderators, participants, etc on this site. Here you can find several answers to just about any question. Discussions are (usually) carried out in a fun and positive manner. Many of the questions often asked are already covered - so you don't even have to ask! All in all, this is one incredible resource.
    1 point
  44. Hello, I know this producer from Poland. He created his base (varnish) which colors as needed. Unfortunately, no one shares the recipe. For a similar effect, I use cab coat paints
    1 point
  45. My charge rate is significantly higher, which is why I never entered the lure market. Dave
    1 point
  46. Ain't that the truth. There's a guy on there selling handmade wooden baits for $19.99. They aren't exactly the best looking lures out there (I wouldn't buy one, even for that cheap), but $19.99? I know what kind of materials costs are involved, and he should be paying 1.199 in FET on each one, so his profit can't be more than $10 per bait. That $1.199 would put a big dent in that if he was actually paying it. I don't know for sure, but I gotta think guys selling at that price are simply ignoring it. I don't know. I already registered. Filed the LLC and registered to collect sales t
    1 point
  47. I’ve been finishing baits for three years and have used both BSI and D2T. It has been surprising to me that I have rarely had any problems with bubbles, fish eyes or excessive cure times, particularly considering how many people do. Recently I have concluded that my lack of issues is because I live in Florida and don’t experience cold temperatures. From what I’ve noticed, there seem to be more epoxy issues in Northern areas. So I agree with LHL that temperature is very significant.
    1 point
  48. Yes he does I know what he want in a trout worm. A high floating trout worm can be used many ways. Barely floating is not what is needed.
    1 point
  49. no luck checking the fly kit. Next time I see it in the tackle shop I will write the name down. It’s basically like a string with fur coming off it. It has kind of a fox tail look I have been carving baits with a curve similar to that AC invader before I even seen an Australian crankbait. I just have had good results with different banana style baits. Actually just paint a new deep diver to test out with a slight curve. The paddler is going to be my first intentionally Australian inspired lure. I will be trying it on shallow water pike What I have learned from fishing different
    1 point
  50. I learn something new here ALL the time , so much inspiration and admiration , thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge and passing it on
    1 point
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