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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    after making a few durhams molds I have a few tips. use 1/4" carriage head bolts for index, if you push the head down just to the edge of the bolt head, leave until lower half of mold sets up the bolts snap out of the durhams easily and make a very nicely rounded locator. pop your mold halves apart while still warm, this gives you a little time to work on the cavaties ,clean up and cut your vents prior to full set up. I used a piece of plastisol for the sprue, if you use something ridged it better be exactly half way in the mold, the plastisol has a lot of give or stretch easily pulls out when mold has set weather half way in or not without deforming mold. I also used high temp engine paint to seal the mold, let it cure completely or it will stick to the other mold half and peel away. purchase a 25lb tub of durhams it will save money in the long run. 8 lb will yield 2-3 small molds. definitely make the mold thicker, too much is better than a broken mold. all in all durhams is easy to work with. thanks to all that have helped with my endeavor in mold making, I think I will stick with durhams rather than silicone or vac 50, it is cheaper.
  2. 2 points
    I have always sealed with thinned devcon. No issues and no loss of detail if done properly. Tried various other methods... well still use the devcon method.
  3. 2 points
    I like using minnow nets you find at fishing dept. in Wal-Mart, Bass Pro, Academy. I just cut the netting off the handle.
  4. 2 points
    Yes it does! It also works well with black and white. You can make a silvery gray with white or make a titanium grey kinda with black. Out of all the colors I have minnow silver is a color I won’t go without. It ranks up there with watermelon and green pumpkin in my opinion .
  5. 1 point
    free image host So, to not hijack the titanium wire thread anymore I figured I would start another thread on tungsten. Here is a pic of a tungsten shakeyhead that I made using sithered tungsten powder and epoxy with some Lure Craft GP for the GP color. Tried to duplicate the Keitech jigheads but I cannot get the density correct. Allen
  6. 1 point
    With small lures, members discovered that very thin fiber/circuit board lips were more effective than thicker Lexan lips in creating waggle action. The thinner the lip, the better the action. The reason for this has not been discussed much, if at all. It is all about the sharp edge. Water can flow around a round object with minimum 'peeling off' of the flow, thus minimum disturbance of the water. Conversely, flow cannot negotiate a sharp corner; it cannot change direction that quickly. This causes a low pressure area behind the edge of the lip. Water gets sucked back into this low pressure area and thus the vortex is born. At very slow speeds, the shape of the water flow is symmetrical, the same both sides of the lure. But, as the lure speed increases, a certain speed is reached were the vortices start to interact. There is not enough room for the vortices to exist independently so they take turns. The vortices start to alternate, forming one side then the other. This effect is called ‘vortex shedding’, a ‘vortex street’ or ‘Kármán vortex street’. This alternating vortex is the engine that drives the lure, causing the desirable ‘waggle’ or action of the lure. This also explains why a lure has a minimum speed before the action starts. The sharper the edge is, the stronger the low pressure area, the stronger the vortex and therefore the stronger the action. Larger lures in the range of 8” and larger will require a thicker lip in order to survive bouncing off rocks with all that body weight behind. But the thicker lip is not going to produce as much action as the knife edge lip of the 3” lure. The solution is to cut a chamfer behind the lip face. This reintroduces the knife edge and improves the vortex strength and thus the action. Another way to improve action is to make the face of the lip concave. This causes pressure to build up in front of the lip which further increases the strength of the vortex. Here is a video that shows vortex shedding, and the start transition explaining the minimum speed. Dave
  7. 1 point
    Del at Del Mart makes a ten cavity stick mold. I picked one up on the used market some years ago and it shoots good and makes goot baits. Laminates well. Takes a large injector, though. Can’t fill it with a 3 ounce with one shot. Takes a six ounce. Might want to ask around before ordering. At one point he was way behind and even his website says long lead times on his molds. Not sure of his present “position”.
  8. 1 point
    Poured this in my Do-It mold as a test case actually. Problem is the tungsten to epoxy ratio has to be really high to get the desired density. Such ratios do not pour very well so I am guessing Keitech has some sort of high pressure injection machine. Allen
  9. 1 point
    I’ve been making my own spinners for a little over a year and a half now and have a very solid French blade spinner in 2 sizes and a couple different in-line patterns in various sizes that work well also. It’s winter up here (Michigan) which is typically my main building season and I thought I’d make a variant of my French spinners with willow blades so I put together a parts order figuring the transition would be pretty painless and it’s not the case. My willow blades really enjoy sticking to the spinner bodies. First thought is that my size 2 clevis might be too big for the willows. Second is that maybe my blades are undersized. My testing spot is the equivalent to an indoor pool right now as everything is froze over so flow is pretty low but even on a fast retrieve the larger spinner is mediocre. Smaller is still a no go. Before I go putting in another order with 10$ shipping I thought I’d try to get a little input.. blade sizes are 1 and 2.
  10. 1 point
    Thanks Mark, that's what I've been doing, with an xacto knife, very carefully. Live and learn, next time I will clear coat right up to the lip joint after removing the tape mask.
  11. 1 point
    I will add this tip. After you are sure your baits are dry. When I use Devcon 2 ton I use 30 min. I stick each bottle (Part A and Part B ) seperately in to a solo cup and run hot tap water in the cup- let sit a few minutes then mix. I do this with etex as well. For me it goes on really smooth and never any bubbles. Regards, Blades
  12. 1 point
    I remember that as well on which one was stronger and which one was better. Guys trying to do harness testing on epoxy finishes. It was pretty brutal at times.
  13. 1 point
    What I do with my plastisol is take a wire coat hanger, I open it all the way up and cut off the ends where it has been wound. I make a bend about 6 inches long and bring it back to the main wire. Then I take the main wire and make a 90° bend. That creates an L shaped wire with a double wire on the bottom. I put it in a drill and place it in the bottle and turn on the drill. It can be used to scrape the bottom and sides and does a heck of a mixing job. I keep it right beside the plastisol jugs so it will always be handy.
  14. 1 point
    Here's a video of how I built my reversible squid stickbait. I will be using the bait for both GT and Tuna casting.
  15. 1 point
    Etex or flex coat were the other 2 that come to mind, constant battle with differing opinions back then
  16. 1 point
    I'm guessing the same rule applies to them as it does the United States. If a product that is imported and then significantly transformed in the country it can then be labeled as being made in that country. So having raw Tungsten heads shipped from China and then painted and weed guards added and /or silicone would probably constitute a significant change allowing them to say "made in Japan", maybe? I really don't know but I was told that the cost of making Tungsten jigs is so high it has to be done in China and that is where most of the Tungsten products come from. Judging from the price Keitech charges I would imagine it isn't made in Japan, after all the price of Japanese tackle is high because of exchange rates and their labor is high cost like America's.
  17. 1 point
    Been there, done that! Cannot figure out how to get enough sithered tungsten into the epoxy to get the correct weight. They do like nice but you are right sithered tungsten is like $40lb. It does work well for hand poured flukes that I want to sink quickly though. Allen
  18. 1 point
    I don't think it was Terminator, it may have been Stanley. I have some Stanley Icon spinnerbaits that had "tunable titanium wire", you could bend it just like stainless but it held up longer. As for those heads, the OP wants wire to make his own, the last time I researched titanium wire was over 10 years ago and it wasn't readily available. Also if you could get it, the wire is in a raw state so you would probably need a metallurgy degree and expensive equipment in order to temper it correctly. I put making your own titanium spinnerbait wire forms in the same category as making your own Tungsten jigs, I know about the powder and epoxy method but you don't get the same properties as you do with sintered Tungsten. The major one is the increased density over lead which makes it harder so it is more sensitive and the same size weight is smaller than lead. So if you aren't getting that effect with the powder and epoxy, why go through 50X the expense? The same issue applies to titanium wire, even if you can find it and purchase it, you won't be able to temper it correctly so you don't get the advantage of titanium.
  19. 1 point
    Using CAD models, direct into a duplicator really appeals to me. Speed is not an issue for me, so the dup in the video is looking very tasty, especially the detailing possibilities. Dave
  20. 1 point
    That machine, adapting a 3 axis into a 2 axis function is pretty much what I had in mind, the 3rd axis being the rotation. Obviously the machine in the video is capable of great detail, but this comes at the expense of speed. For turning out featureless bodies, my machine would still use the rotating saw cutter as used in the angle grinder type machine. I will view the other videos at my leisure. Great information, thanks for posting. Dave
  21. 1 point
    I dont use chunk style trailers often but saw a tip by Randal Tharp that I think could help with the plastic ripping. Take a toothpick and run it laterally just in front of where you plan to put the hook through. On a short bite the bait pulls on the toothpick instead of ripping through the front of the bait. Just clip off the ends so they dont stick out.
  22. 1 point
    If you search "Didspade" on amazon you can get a variety of 5g samples packs (they make approx. 9 oz.). I had a couple bottles of Createx clear coat that I mixed them into and had real good results. The attached picture is 3 or 4 light coats of "riddler" sprayed over black sealer.
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    For what its worth, here's what I do. I buy LC plastic in 5gal bucket. When it arrives, I use my mixer in a drill and blend the bucket for a full 20 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape the bottom with a dowel looking for any separated material to mix back in. After the mixing, I use a plastic cup and funnel to transfer from the 5gal pail to five separate 1gal containers. I use Arizona brand tea jugs - slightly clearer than milk jugs, but heavier plastic. I put a swatch of kitchen type platic wrap (doubled for extra thickness) over the opening before screwing on the cap. Shaking the 1gal jug is not difficult, and pours easily into my Pyrex for heating. Just my 2cents. Rick SE CT
  25. 1 point
    If you want a simple boat building project, check out the plans for this 10 ft wood and canvas kayak. It is great for hike in ponds. With the strap on trailer (made from an old folding lawn chair and wheels - my design) I tote mine 2/3 - 3/4 miles up a mountain trail. The dual rod holder / net holder (my own design) holds two ten foot crappie rods. When trolling I cover 21 ft of water. It is held on by velcro and 2 2" C clamps. The rope attached to the bow and stern holds my anchor rope. I can quickly shift the anchor to the front, the back, or somewhere in between. For better tracking, I added a fin in the rear. It doesn't like wakes, and some of the boaters up here are idiots, so I made a cover for it that is also held on by velcro. But my preference is to take it where power boats cannot go. It is plenty stable. As for durability - this is my kayak after 12 years of heavy use. The design allows for the kayak to be folded lengthwise and hung on a wall with the seat and spreaders inside. http://www.ida.net/users/tetonsl/kayak/