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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/13/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    .5 needle with my badger patriot combined with an airbrush flow improved to delay tip dry really helped me clean less and paint more.
  2. 3 points
    Neo has a .35 needle, so if you are trying to use craft paint or even unreduced quality airbrush paint you may still have clogging issues. Agree with others about sticking trigger and dirty nozzle. You just can't keep em too clean i've learned...
  3. 2 points
    There are plenty of pro shops using siphon feed Badger and Paasche brushes to finish baits. I like a gravity feed Iwata because I use small amounts of paint as a hobby builder and it’s easier to clean between colors and after painting. I still keep my Badger with its 3 tips in case I need to paint something larger than a crankbait with paint that’s thicker than I’d use on a bait. Btw, the Neo is the only Iwata built in China, not Japan. You usually get only what you pay for in airbrushes, unfortunately.
  4. 2 points
    That's what you get for not using my link...
  5. 2 points
    I prefer a 0.5 needle airbrush... I have the least problem with cleaning and clogging. If I want details, I use a stencil.. I have a few of these>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-7CC-Airbrush-Paint-Spray-Gun-Kit-for-Toys-Nail-Care/173685950458?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=472360764798&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Worth trying yourself.
  6. 2 points
    No. 15 and 14. You are correct in that a new airbrush should have functioned properly... that is when you should have called for help. Nine months later after chucking it against a wall? Micheal's has a lot of coupons now. one is 60% off one item. Drive over to Keller and buy another one. I looked at one earlier this week thinking I might see about it for spraying finishes on small woodworking projects.
  7. 2 points
    I’ve owned Badger, Paasche, and Iwata. My Iwata is clearly the best built and has been trouble free for 10 years. Mine is a Revolution B with a .03 mm tip. Eclipse is of similar high quality in the Iwata lineup. Just IMHO, your Eclipse sounded like it had a problem in the trigger system which caused most of the problems you cited. All airbrushes are precision instruments that require daily cleaning and periodic deep cleaning. They're easy to break or get misadjusted so that they can’t work well. Finicky? Yeah, a little. But there’s no other tool that can do the same job as well.
  8. 2 points
    Iwata in my opinion about the best brush I have used. No major differences between them just subtle things in regards to quality. I have used the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS autographics brush for years with no problems at all. Neo is budget friendly option so going to likely come across lemons more frequently. I am in agreement with Bob and likely defective brush from the get go or also likely just need to be tweaked out of the box. If the brush was leaking air first place to look was the valve body set and valve body o-ring. May have been as simple as a cracked o ring. Trigger sticking even after cleaning likely needed a little airbrush lube or possible to clean up some flash from the casting so it was freely moving. If paint not spraying could be a few issues. Paint too thick, not enough pressure due to escaping air to function properly, small bit of dried paint clogging nozzle, etc.. Difficult to paint with brush not functioning right especially if not enough time has been spent painting to know what to trouble shoot.
  9. 2 points
    With either one you use you need to stir. Then it does not matter which one you use. I want to know the average temp not just the middle or out side. Stir and take the temp.
  10. 2 points
    We cut strips of masking tape the width of each joint and put them on both sides of the cloth. Then apply your choice of clear coat. We spray auto clear or moisture cure urethane. No need to spin.
  11. 1 point
    I keep a vile of cooking oil on my bench. Before I start injecting I dip my plungers into it to lube the o rings.
  12. 1 point
    I just started to use some epoxy clear coat I got along time ago it produces a nice solid clear coat hopefuly hold up to abuse fishing!
  13. 1 point
    just use common sense on the pressure, think of it like a can of soda ready to squirt out, if you give it a reason or chance to it will squirt out melted plastic and nothing on earth hurts worse if it gets on your skin and you cannot remove it until it finishes burning you and cools off. short answer is when in doubt dont apply more pressure unless you have issues with deformed baits a good safety precaution is a BBQ/cooking apron, might look or feel silly wearing it but the first time it stops hot plastic from getting on your shirt and/or through it you will be happy you had it on i would venture to say the only time people get hot plastic squirting back out at you is because they are rushing and trying to force it into the molds too fast. if you think the molds are filling too slowly then enlarge the gate but dont try to force it in. PS - im an amateur rookie as well just sharing things i have learned
  14. 1 point
    I am just a hobby pourer, so this is just how I do things, not necessarily the only or best way. I shoot some PAM cooking spray into my injector after each shot. That has kept the O rings in good shape for more than 5 years. Knock on wood. I shoot med fast, and hold pressure for a 5 to 10 count, depending on how thick the bait is. Good venting lets me shoot faster, since there is no trapped air to get rid of, but each mold is different, so I vary how fast I shoot accordingly.
  15. 1 point
    just a mere flesh wound! my baits take a beating also....nothing I have seen will hold up to rocks and fish for long.
  16. 1 point
    If you buy in bulk (1K) you can get a better price from Worth. They have excellent blades.
  17. 1 point
    You are one lucky person. Quick, buy a lottery ticket! Hahaha
  18. 1 point
    Be patient (I know it’s hard) and accept that you’ll need to clean it everyday. It’s just the nature of the beast, it will get easier over time.
  19. 1 point
    Remember, a happy wife is a happy life.
  20. 1 point
    Cost isnt really a limitation, more of a delay.... i just bought a boat last month, so its kinda difficult to justify another purchase with the wife this soon....... especially seeing as how the airbrush i just destroyed was a gift from her
  21. 1 point
    This is the one I have.... some of the ads call it vintage (LOL)... it's the VL model... old but works. It's a little bit more than the cheap chinese made ones... but not near the cost of a Iwata. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Paasche-VL-Airbrush-Set-in-Original-Box-No-16071/264467608310?epid=2164372332&hash=item3d937f72f6:g:etwAAOSwNx5df6iy https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAASCHE-AIRBRUSH-SET-VL-FOR-CRAFTSMEN-HOBBYISTS-PASTRY-ARTIST-CERAMICISTS/303283783814?hash=item469d1f4886:g:g3kAAOSwB8xdXtdo
  22. 1 point
    I get mine in 2 weeks... Have some patience. The price is right, So are shipping costs! Get a couple.
  23. 1 point
    Mark you are starting to move into a modern age. Wayne
  24. 1 point
    Not really, unless you are using a really small blade on a bait with large wire and a big clevis.
  25. 1 point
    My first airbrush was a Badger siphon, with a .5 tip, and all it does is work. I use to spray white undercoat when I have a lot of lures to paint, and it never clogs.
  26. 1 point
    I have both an Iwata Eclipse and and old Paasche (I think I got it for X-Mas in 1990). I found the Iwata to work really well doing fine details and feathering out light areas - but would need the paint to be just right (not to thick/not too thin) as it has a smaller tip diameter. My old Paasche I have the .5mm tip and I can put almost anything through it provided it isn't thick like glue! If you'r just doing very basic shading on a bait (base coat on sides / a top-back coat / a belly coat-color) and using stencils for small/fine details like striping/eyes - a basic airbrush with a bigger diameter tip will work for most of what you need - and provided you clean it when done - should work maintenance free. If your trying to very light/fine details and such - the smaller tip brush will work better like found on Iwata and other brands - but you'll have to be more precise with your paint viscosity and pressures, etc. You'll also need to be more diligent about cleaning and be careful with the needle/tip as drop it once the floor can/will ruin it (I speak from experience). For the majority of what I do - the old Paasche with a big tip works great... I even have my 8 year old use it to paint his pinewood derby car.... it's that friendly. J.
  27. 1 point
    I use craft paint you find at Walmart just thin it down with orange cleaner to the point of milk!
  28. 1 point
    Most eclipse models have a .35 mm tip. As well as ordering parts, I think you can send Iwata brushes to a repair facility for service. Don’t think this would be necessarily required on an Eclipse since the tip is not especially small compared to many other Iwata models whose tips really need to be professionally fitted to function right.
  29. 1 point
    Love making lures from wood! I feel like the home lure builders like myself slow down a bit in summer. More fishing less building and posting. It’s my winter past time. I totally agree with you Mark shaping and carving is fun and relaxing I’m working on a copy of my favourite soft bait. A Hybrid bulldawg type lure. I may have to Try the pvc, I really enjoy working with wood. But it is less predictable.
  30. 1 point
    Not to mention that the molds for a machine like that are $6k plus!
  31. 1 point
    If that is a canvas joint, it will only take 1 drop of finish to ruin the movement.....I am talking from my own experience. 1. brush on finish segment at a time. 2. spray on finish with masking tape or rubber bands to keep finish out of joints. My .02
  32. 1 point
    I'm sure you're right. I just stir and read the temp with my infrared thermometer because that is what I have.
  33. 1 point
    I do something similar. I use the sprue from some of my Do-it Molds.
  34. 1 point
    The Iwata HPCS is an excellent brush and I use it for 70% of my work. Cant say anything about the quality and longevity of the compressor or the quality of the paint in that kit however. good price but if you price out the same brush, a California Air Tools compressor, sprayout pot and a selection of quality paint like Wicked you will be in the same range and have a compressor and paint that is of high quality. As far as cheap blanks go, Cedar Run Outdoors has some good ones, and excellent service
  35. 1 point
    I'll third that! My local glass shop let me come take a look and gave me all sorts of pieces of polycarbonate. In return I made them a larger lure for display with their company name on it, just for fun. They were so pumped, I have basically an unlimited source for lip material now! Another spot I have got some from is a plastic's distributor. They had a bunch of cut offs that they let me buy for cheap.
  36. 1 point
    yes sir, check with your local glass shops for scrap lexan/poloycarbonate. most shops will throw small pieces away as soon as it is cut, so talk with them.
  37. 1 point
    Glass guy in town gives me a deal on his cut off ends. Last time I got a 6ftx1ft and a bunch of other strips 2inch and wider of 1/8 for 5$
  38. 1 point
    You can spray them over anything, but to get the true color shift intended, they have to go over black. Makes for a pretty dark bait though. You can get really cool effects with other dark colors. I like to spray them over dark greens, reds, and blues. The combinations are endless. Over light colors, you get more of a standard pearl effect. I've found though, that it's much cheaper to add dry pearl pigment to clear base for those effects.
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