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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/12/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    LOL! Paint patterns or schemes cannot be owned by any one person or company. I find it ironic that a custom painter is complaining about someone ripping off his paint scheme, when he is putting that scheme on knock-off lures ripped off from other manufacturers.
  2. 5 points
    The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  3. 3 points
    I have that mold & it shoots great. It's a great choice.
  4. 3 points
    No offence but painting is just that painting. I respect the talent with an airbrush but in the end it’s just decorating a lure that someone else made. There is only so many combinations and if you are matching natural feed things are even more limited Maybe I just don’t get it because my focus is on building and action more than painting. In the end if painting is what you base your business on and competition is hurting you it’s time to find something that makes you stand out from the others. It’s just how business goes Good luck
  5. 2 points
    Yep, I bought some nail polish remover in a supermarket once, only to find out later that it had almond oil in it. That would have caused no end of problems if I hadn't noticed before I used it.
  6. 2 points
    Let me see what we can do to make this happen.
  7. 2 points
    Then quit. Or stop trying to sell your stuff on a public forum. While I agree it is B.S. to ape someone elses paint jobs, it is an inevitable fact of life when you post on a public forum with millions of users. I am a member of several groups on Farcebook and honestly, from what I have seen, the cream rises to the top as far a what sells and for how much on the auction pages. If people are truly copying your patterns and they are truly unique, you are free to use the "implied copyright" part of the law and hire a lawyer to send out cease and desit letters to everyone. Personally, if I notice someone posting a bait that was obviously inspired by my pattern, I take as a compliment and move on. The so-called "custom tackle" business has never been much of one, and the number of folks actually making a living at it is small, very small. So my advice is, paint for the joy of it, sell some if you can, and don't be all butt hurt. After all, I am sure that you, like everyone, started of copying someone else's work until you gained the skills and confidence necessary to become creative and produce your own.
  8. 2 points
    That is incorrect. An original paint pattern is just like a drawing, painting or photograph and carries an implied copyright. The problem lies in enforcement of it. Unless your paint scheme is truly unique and a large company like Strike King or Rapala is the one copying, enforcing you rights to the pattern you produced would not be economically feasible.
  9. 2 points
    I think it is a great Idea..I’ll look into it..Nathan
  10. 2 points
    But do you have lures you can’t even duplicate yourself lol I also don’t worry because I know people maybe able to create lures that look a like easily but it’s going to take someone with brains to re create the action
  11. 2 points
    I don’t have as much experience with them as some on here, but most commonly Polytranspar and Lifetone are used I believe. McKensie Taxidermy carries them all. Be aware that they come in both lacquer and water-based versions.
  12. 2 points
    I think there is room for everything. The idea of “custom” varies by individual, and there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with that. I think the difficulty comes when it marketed a a “custom bait” rather than a “custom painted” bait. I do think painters that copy should list the color as the color listed. For example, chartreuse with purple back should be “table rock shad” or “Hughsey TR Shad, or similar, not some random made up name. I think that would show a bit of respect or tip of the hat to the originator, even if you don’t know who it was). I don’t think there’s anything wrong with having a bait painted in a color not normally offered in that bait, like asking someone to paint a “Missouri Craw” on a Fat Rap. If you do it better, or cheaper than others, more power to you. If a fisherman has a belief that a custom paint job will catch him more fish, then it will. He’ll be expecting to get bit, pay better attention, use it more, etc. I personally believe that color can be important, but according to my research, fine detail doesn’t matter to most fish like bass on a moving bait, but depending on water clarity and color, light, depth and what the fish are keyed in on, color can matter. The exception would be slow moving baits like jerkbaits, suspending baits, etc. then they can get a longer look. To my mind, order of importance is depth>action>size>color. But I could well be wrong. My wife certainly tells me I am often enough, lol. out of curiosity Bassmaster, what kind of lure did you paint?
  13. 2 points
    My opinions on painting plastic lure blanks are well documented. I was even reprimanded by the TU management for upsetting paying advertisers. Reprimand is a bit strong, more of a 'please stop it' Strangely enough, people who attempt to copy famous, successful lures do not bother me in the slightest. I know that there is a lot more to copying a lure than shape alone. Most will fail but they will learn something about lures on the journey. In fact, I would recommend trying to copy a favourite lure in the learning process as many experienced builders also suggest. Those who can copy a commercial successfully have all the skills to produce their own masterpieces. I often wonder why they bother, but I guess it is a challenge. I was even considering writing a thread dedicated to reverse engineering a lure without destructive examination even though I have never done it before. I never view the gallery. I am not really interested in the current trends. I do not want my design ideas to be affected by what others are doing. Basically, body shape is a covering over the internal structure although it does have some functionality. Because I am not commercially competing I see no reason for secrets. I even received a couple of angry PMs for revealing design secrets that they had been cashing in on for years. However they need not worry, many read the articles but very few try the ideas out. The few that do are only producing lures for personal use. I probably got a bit off subject with this post, but there you go, I am rambling Dave
  14. 2 points
    Bassmaster - Part of this is down to the beauty of the internet. Anyone can learn a skill far quicker and efficiently than they ever could 20 years ago with hundreds of videos available on any subject. This makes many people who had to learn the hard way bitter on the whole subject. I came across this attitude when I first joined TU, I was told to put the work in. I think quick and efficient learning is a very good thing. The question that you should be asking is 'what is the definition of a custom lure'. For most people, custom means slapping a coat of paint on a cheap Chinese imported blank and selling it on Ebay. My definition of a custom lure; to design and build a lure for a single customer with a specific set of requirements, size, action, depth, shape and paint job. A design that is not or is no longer available commercially. Custom could well be just the paint job, but the customer would send you the lure and request a certain pattern and set of colours. If you obtain 500 blanks, paint them with a few of your own best patterns and put them up on Ebay, these are simply lures for sale, and definitely NOT custom lures for sale. I too am disappointed about the whole 'custom' thing. You, because now everyone can encroach on your 'custom' business. Me, because the whole art of lure design and building has been devalued to the point of neglect. Just like calligraphy, lure design is a dying art. I actually own an Iwata but have never opened the box, it has never seen a drop of paint. All my lures are painted white, purely for visibility, to allow me to examine the movement. If I ever bring a lure to market, which might happen soon, it will be painted black. As a compromise, I might make blanks available, probably not on second thoughts. I don't believe in paint as a fish attraction, I believe it is all about movement. Dave
  15. 2 points
    I used to know where that was, but somebody took my trail markers down.
  16. 1 point
    You can mix the powders with worm oil but you will run into the issue of the powder settling out pretty damn hard. Several suppliers do this now. The best colourants available like those from Spike It/Lureworks, the pigments are milled, basically smashed into a paste between 2 rollers before they are mixed into a useable liquid colourant, so you won't generally see much settling in them.
  17. 1 point
    Good deal! Thanks for the reply, now we all know that warming the ETex will return it to a usable form.
  18. 1 point
    Heat stabilizer looks to be about the right consistency for what you have in mind. Dave
  19. 1 point
    I have a couple of Arky head models, however they are proprietary to my design. The easiest thing to do is find the Arky head style jig you want, buy it and tell the mold maker what features you want and don't want incorporated in your design. They will probably have a minimum design charge, to make your Arky model. Once you finalize the design they will create a program to CNC your mold.
  20. 1 point
    Good stuff Dave..KCDano would eat this up!!..Nathan
  21. 1 point
    Many years ago I posted a rattle made from a brass tube. I think the pictures are lost so I am not posting a link. Instead of cutting a flat and soldering a closed tube, I cut a thin spigot and bent it over. This retained the ball and made a 'ping' sound as the thin spigot vibrated like a tuning fork. There is documentation out there that is conflicting about rattles. Some think that it scares the fish, others that it raises interest. I would be more interested in pursuing sound effects of movement than paint jobs, but primarily, I will stick to movement. Remember, the fish's primary sensory organ is the lateral line, a long series of pressure sensors that convey information about small pressure variations. The fish senses movement, and with two lateral lines, it can also sense direction. Fish also have a strong sense of taste through their 'nose'. If you ever hook a fish behind its nose it goes absolutely bonkers, this is because there are a lot of nerves in that area and it feels pain! Water is not the best medium for sight sensing, but no doubt sight plays a part, especially close up. But for me, attracting a fish from 6yds will always be better than 6". Although having said that, the last 6" could be considered the most critical. But my belief is that after attracting from 6yds that the fish is committed. Understanding your quarry is part of lure engineering Dave
  22. 1 point
    What do you mean by cad files? To make a mold of the jig? Are you looking for 3D step files to machine a Arky jig? You are going to need to get a hook in there somehow, so I'm thinking 2 piece. Lot of unanswered questions. Please elaborate more so I can help better.
  23. 1 point
    it powder paint or textured paint rattle can
  24. 1 point
    The spoon surface looks textured to me. If so paint the two colours and apply scotchbrite. Dave
  25. 1 point
    Looks like a gold spoon that has been painted to me. You can get a similar finish by dipping a sponge in paint and then touching the sponge to the spoon. You might also try wadding up a thin piece of plastic (something like a plastic grocery bag like those at the store) and then doing the same process as with the sponge. Experimentation will go a long way. good luck...............Ben
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    That's amazing, As there soft was like medium. I know they have worked on a few things recently, But i don't think any of it has came to market yet. If you really like the dead on plastic, Try out chemionics. I have samples of both. If i was a betting man, its from the same batch..
  28. 1 point
    Mark, that's exactly how i feel. I mixed some medium & hard 50-50 lastnight to see how it cures, Hopefully it does better.
  29. 1 point
    There aren't any "good" epoxies that you can use without a wheel. Skeeter
  30. 1 point
    Enforcer, basstackle, del-mart & do-it are what molds i;ve used. Glitter & colorant i'm buying lureworks from ispikeit.com. I also like their plastic although right now i'm trying bait plastics, but the jurys still out on that.
  31. 1 point
    If applied evenly and not missing spots there are typically two options. 1) It is pulling way from the paint because of something keeping it from adhering properly. Oils from your fingers can transfer if you handle the baits for example. Also some that thin with products such as windex have had issues at times as they include some sort of "soap". 2) If you don't seal your bait properly and the lure heats up you can have bubbles from cross cut grain make their way to the surface. Much more common if you use light bulb or similar to heat the lure.
  32. 1 point
    BTS sells a tail mold for their lizard mold.
  33. 1 point
    Yes they do, Anglin AI is on word, and enforcer is based in Canada they both have there own web sites
  34. 1 point
    @clemmy I understand what you are saying about trying to give respect for the original painter of a pattern by using the name the original name. The issue is take a guy like myself who has no clue about fancy pattern names or search them out I just paint my lures. Odds are I have painted “custom patterns” without knowing it It’s no different than fly tying in my opinion. I have seen patterns tied privately for years and then down the road someone names it and claims to be the creator. The possibility is very possible multiple people without the others knowing were tying the pattern before it became well known Those who paint, fly tie, pour baits, build jigs, spoons, spinners, hard bait and any other fishing related craft has to realize odds are someone will build/paint something close or knock off what you do Only way to limit it is if what you do is difficult to figure out or involves a high level of difficulty
  35. 1 point
    tks guys.you got a good idea about taxidermist paint . i have never tried them ,i guess they work good .did you got a brand to suggest me
  36. 1 point
    ohh yea, that lurecraft mold is exactly what I was looking for thx
  37. 1 point
    Right here. https://www.lurecraft.com/425-Rocket-Creature-Alum-2-Cav-2-Pc-Mold/productinfo/5XLU-179/
  38. 1 point
    This looks pretty close to me. http://www.basstackle.com/551_Creature_p/551-kj-1.htm
  39. 1 point
    I think it is a great idea. Sorry for the late reply. Dave
  40. 1 point
    I do the same thing with discarded aluminum arrow shafts. The aluminum they use in making arrows is fairly hard and when used with a steel rattle makes a pretty loud rattle. The only thing is that you will have to heat it when bending over the end flap or it will break and overheating it will melt it. It's sort of a fine line with the heat, but once you get the hang of how much heat to use it goes well. Ben
  41. 1 point
    I'm like Clemmy in that I don't post much anymore, but still come around occasionally to read the posts and stay in touch with a few friends. It's too easy for someone to get "lost" in the pages of TU and believe that a "Lost and Found" page would be a great idea. Ben
  42. 1 point
    And if you have to ask how to make a certain color you probably shouldn’t be painting anyways.
  43. 1 point
    I think of cream as a variant of “bone” and you make that by mixing a little yellow into a white base, and possibly adding a few drops of brown.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    I use twisted wire hangars also. (Most of the time) With twisted wire hangars there is probably 3 or more times more contact for the epoxy and wood. Most of the time I also either drill my hangar or line tie holes all the way through. If it is too far, say with a tail hook, then I drill the hole deep enough for the hangar, then I drill a vent hole in from the top of the bait. Holding the bait, tail up, I start 30 min epoxy in the hangar hole, then I warm the epoxy with my heat gun and keep adding epoxy until it comes out the vent hole. It doesn't take too long because there is no air lock like there is with a dead end hole.
  46. 1 point
    Maybe this will help out a little... These are ones I have tested and found the fit acceptable.
  47. 1 point
    Haha, I clicked pretty fast too.
  48. 1 point
    Figured it out, heres the picture
  49. 1 point
    The shine may help to the fish see it further away buy reflecting the light off it maybe, or making the colors pop a little more. Only the fish knows for sure.
  50. 1 point
    If you want a bass-belly white, flour some salt or use clear flakes in clear plastic and pour 1/2 the mold; use Jim's color scheme for the dorsal half. I use light gold vs. yellow gold for bass. The above bass use flakes that are all .015 (my first test pour.) I've since increased the size of the flakes to .040 for black and gold, but left the lime green or kelly at .015. The belly is sugar flakes in clear plastic - much different and more natural than using white dye or pearl. Kinami's bass is probably different.
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