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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I just put together a video on dipping tubes. If your wanting to see how it done Check it out! Just uploaded the tail cutting video as well.
  2. 5 points
    Buy American!!
  3. 5 points
    smalljaw, Were you not able to get it to fit at all or were you just not happy that it did not sit perfectly straight? The 604's I tried worked but theydid not sit perfectly straight. I have to admit that it was a very tight fit but I would have said they work too. The VMC 7150 also fits in the mold but you have to use a 4/0 hook in all but the largest cavity where a 5/0 will fit. JB
  4. 4 points
    First time for me I had a lure made with 3D printing and I am making a mold right now. Lure needs no sealing since it is plastic and is as smooth as a baby's a.. Now back to work. wayne
  5. 4 points
    Thank you !!! I am honored to be in this group of excellent artist It was very fun and I enjoyed looking at all the custom work congrats to all who placed and everyone who entered !!!
  6. 4 points
    Praying for the officer and family! So sorry to hear this! Contests mean nothing when it comes to family!
  7. 4 points
    @Bogbaits As mentioned by @alsworms, one of the judges had a very bad family emergency happen just as judging was supposed to start. So things got a bit delayed. The winners have been chosen and will be announced soon. Thank you for your patience.
  8. 4 points
    Big ole carpet needle . Does just fine . Does not even have to have a sharp point . Just thread a partial tab threw the eye just enough to pull it through the body . Then put some scent oil on the rest to grease it up so you can move it into an even position .
  9. 4 points
    I also confirmed last night, they Baitplastics.com will be offering both brands in single gallon 5 and 6 packs effective immediately. No more buckets..
  10. 4 points
    We make the eye with a hot glue gun. We made a mold with the glue sticks and rtv so we just poured the color of the eye we wanted into the stick, dot the mold with the glue gun where we wanted the eye and then shot the color. I think lure craft sells the mold also.
  11. 4 points
    Hello guys. My name is Edward, I'm in Ukraine and I'll try to give answers to all questions about the company baitmold.com here, of course, if the administration of the forum does not block me;) Immediately I would like to apologize for your English. To clarify the situation - standard orders we ship within 3-7 working days. Yes, unfortunately my country's mail does not always work well, especially during the New Year holidays, now with delivery there are terrible delays, we are trying to find ways to solve this problem. We spend much more time on custom molds. The manufacturing of custom molds takes more than one month. We also try to respond in time to all messages by e-mail. But we do not always have time to do this quickly. I hope I will be of use to you and I hope for your understanding.
  12. 4 points
    Here's what I came up with. Jacobs 3" helgramite http://stores.jacobsbaits.com/hellgrammite-3-1-cavity-mold/ Cut off some legs Not bad
  13. 3 points
    I apply a coat of water based clear on the lure and then sprinkle the flake on while it is still wet.Let the water base dry and then apply epoxy top coat. I don't mix the flake with the epoxy.
  14. 3 points
    This is what my Tube Cutter looks like. Large disk is a blade, smaller disk is a washer.
  15. 3 points
    Try Lure Craft's black grape with green glitter. Always worked for me.
  16. 3 points
    I have buddys that pitch in on plastic & molds & actually help make theirs because they enjoy doing it too & so it doesn't cost me so much. One buddy is in to lead so we just swap things when we need them & that works good too. I give a lot of stuff to the kids too. I could sell all the baits i wanted as i've had 4 pretty big tackle shops try to get me to put them in their stores & numerous individuals try to buy 300 to 500 baits at a time, but when you start being obligated it turns an enjoyable hobby into a job that ends up not being enjoyable anymore. Been there done that in other hobbys. If a person was retired & not able to fish it might be alright, but i have a job thats usually 60 hours a week & thats way more obligation then i want nowadays. lol Now i've ordered things to get into rod building & have several buddys wanting me to build them some rods too. Its never ending .lol
  17. 3 points
    You mentioned the right temperature, what is the number? lLooks like its to hot and denting. Try lowering the temp a lot , like 300-310.
  18. 3 points
    Here is a list of crankbait blank suppliers gleaned from the previous thread with the same title. The list is in alphabetical order. The last thread got a bit out of control and way, way off topic, so I have deleted it and created this new one. This thread will be pinned and locked, so forum members will not be able to comment. If you own, or if you find a good supplier that's missing from the list, please PM me and ask me to add it. Thanks Amazon.com Avidbasstackle.com Barlowstackle.com Cedarrunoutdoors.com Custombaitsupply.com Dingerbaits.com ebay.com Getbitcustombaits.com Jannsnetcraft.com Luckycastlures.com luckycastlures/ebay.com Lurepartsonline.com Predatorbassbaits.com ReelPowerHandles.com Sheltsfishingtackle.com wLure.com
  19. 3 points
    Israel, spain it dont matter. Not everyone views support the same, I try and spend my money I make from my customers at other moms and pops etc, obviously we cant do it all the time. I wonder how much stuff these foriegn mold makers buy from the USA, I know enforcer "Canada" buys all his material USA, supporting american workers, my guess is the others dont put a penny back to the us economy..
  20. 3 points
    You can use a Hagen's tool for "R" bends but you need to adjust the stops and figure out the angles on your own. I use the little blue bend to make "R" bends because that is what that that bender does. The only reason I don't use my Hagen's to do "R" bends is because I use it for other things and it would mean I have to change to set up around and then tweak it to get back to where I had it set. Having the little blue bender makes it easy to just crank out spinnerbait forms fast and easy.
  21. 3 points
    Hawg Hooker, PM me your contact info and we'll figure out what you've got and how to make it right. Excluding Hildebrandt, we don't carry any willow blades that run $66/50 count. -Matt Barlow
  22. 3 points
  23. 3 points
    Barlow's is about 50 minutes from my house, which makes it "local" in the DFW area. I'm not allowed to go there without adult supervision, unless I hand over the plastic to my wife and use cash. It's REAL easy to drop $200 and walk out with a small sack. Once I've made the drive to Barlow's then Cabela's is only another few minutes down the road. I'm not allowed there without adult supervision either. My wife caught on to my primer stockpiling scheme and put an end to that.
  24. 3 points
    When using a hair brush for finish epoxy try this............super glue the hair by the metal holder , prevents hair from coming out when doing a finish epoxy on lures, it worked great on my musky lures. Wayne
  25. 3 points
    At Rowhunter's suggestion, I'm starting a PVC thread. I use it for all my lure building, for the following reasons: It is totally waterproof, so I can shape a lure, and then test float and ballast it without any sealing. I have a 3 gallon bucket of water in my driveway that I use for test floating. It is buoyant. The Azek PVC decking is as buoyant as poplar, a hardwood I used to build my jointed swimbaits from. The Azek trimboard is even more buoyant, like medium density balsa. I can make really active shallow cranks with it. It is strong. The decking is as strong as any wood, for lure building, and the trimboard, although not as dense, is still plenty strong enough for any crank. And I use it for my smaller two piece jointed lures, too. I caught a 7lb largemouth with a PVC trimboard spybait I made that was 4" long, but only 7/16" thick, and I had drilled several 3/16" holes up from the belly for my ballast. She ate the rear hook, and the bait held up fine. Both are strong enough to hold screw eyes with just a small pilot hole. No need for any reinforcement, or setting into holes filled with epoxy. I usually use the gap filling/brush on super glue alone to set my hardware, and a lot times my bills, too. I use the accelerant (thank you Ben) dripped onto the glue to help it set quickly, once things are positioned. It machines and carves well. Although the sanding dust is nasty, because it sticks to everything, including my sinuses, PVC is easily machined and shaped with the same tools I used for wood. As with any work, sharp tools work best. I cut out my bait profile, and lip slot, with a bandsaw, and try to drill any ballast hole while the bait has the flat sides, so I can drill straight holes with my drill press. I use an oscillating belt sander with an 80 grit belt to do my major shaping, working from a centerline I put on the bait after I've sanded the bandsaw marks off. I "carve" details with a dremel sanding drum, and drill out my eyes with a multi-spur bit on a drill press. I typically sand down from 80 grit to 120 grit with a vibrator sander, and finish up with a small piece of sandpaper to get edges and details softened. Because it has no direction-oriented grain, it carves really well with sharp tool. It can be laminated into bigger lure blanks using the same PVC glue plumbers use for PVC pipe, or you can use super glue. If you use both the PVC primer and the glue, the two pieces actually melt into one solid piece. As long as the two surfaces are flat and mate, you're good to go. It paints well. I can shoot Wicked White as a base coat onto a raw PVC bait, heat set it, and never have any separation problems with my paint schemes. When I've had occasion to remove some paint to modify a bait, I've had to sand down to the PVC to get the paint off. It never peels. Occasionally, heat setting too hot can cause trapped air to bubble up under the seal coat, so I generally seal baits by rubbing crazy glue, or thinned epoxy, over them before I paint, if I want a super smooth bait. But any bubbles that do appear can be popped by the sharp tip of an exacto knife, and they lay right back down when I press them with my exacto knife handle. I've never had any baits with popped bubbles fail. And, because it is totally waterproof, I don't have to worry about nicks and scuffs from rocks and hooks. Any top coat works. I've used epoxies, urethanes, and concrete sealers, with no problems. In short, it make lure building faster and easier, and that make it even more fun, so why I use it.