count draculure

Firefox 6 comes out tomorrow. Maybe that will help. http://www.pcworld.com/businesscenter/article/238066/firefox_6_jumps_on_stage_ahead_of_schedule.html And now on to Firefox 7..... http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9219069/Mozilla_shrinks_Firefox_s_memory_appetite_by_20_30_?source=toc

You may want to read the book "Through the fish's eye" by Mark Sosin and John Clark. It deals with not only a fish's sight, but all the others senses too. Really interesting reading, although I did find a couple of contradictory statements concerning a bass' response to color. I have a lot of highlighted paragraphs in my copy. The book was copyrighted in 1973, but unless fish have evolved quite a bit since then, you should find it helpful or at the very least interesting. I see used copies can be found really cheap on Amazon.

Hi Dan I've done this before. You can start with a rectangular blank at your desired finished width. You have to be careful that your lathe centers are accurately centered on the ends. And slowly introduce the gouge to the spinning blank. It seems a little strange at first, but you'll get the hang of it quickly. If you have any questions, feel free to pm me. da Count

I may be able to help you. Shoot me an email at tworiverstackle@hotmail.com da Count

Hi, Move your line tie down just in front of the lip. You'll get a lot more wiggle.

Although I haven't bought them for awhile, I order blades from McMaster-Carr. Cheaper than X-acto brand and worked just as well. They even offer them in stainless steel. I tried the SS blades once;, but for my purposes, didn't feel they were worth the extra cost.

I believe the original Jitterbugs were made of cedar,not balsa.

Hi Thad, I don't think you will find anything at Lowes ar Homies that won't lift under HoK. Is there an auto parts store that mixes paint near you? Most will mix as little as a 1/2 pint for you. Or try a body shop and ask if they have some left-overs. I would suggest PPG DBC. I know it's preferable to keep within the same manufacturer; but I regularly use both HoK and PPG together and have never had a problem. The HoK reducer will work fine with DBC.You could probably use PPG DBU also, but it requires a reactive reducer.While I don't care much for Dupont's system. I don't think you would have a problem with HoK over their Chromabase either.

While it may be true that HOK is toxic; it appears that Auto Air disrupts ones ability to spell the word "spray":)

House of Kolor is not out of business. Jon Kosmoski sold it to Valspar Corporation several years ago. Although it's still a pretty good product for the most part, I think it was better when Jon was in control. But then there were less EPA laws then and he didn't have to answer to a bunch of bean counters. Never heard of the spray gun thingy. It doesn't sound like something that HOK would offer, but maybe someone at Valspar thought they could make a buck or two on it.

Actually, the very first airbrushes weren't much more than a couple of straws. You can still buy them here. Atomizers - JerrysArtarama.com

Fish Devil, I'm assuming that the nets were cleared but not painted. If that's the case, it makes me wonder about the polyurethanes UV stability. I never thought about that because my glue joints are buried in sealer, paint and Etex. I also tried the Titebond III, and even went so far as to soak an unsealed glued block for 24 hours. The glue joint was completely intact with no signs of failure. I would use the Titebond more than I do, but many of my blanks have a groove in them that form a through hole when the halves are glued together.The hole sometimes has to be drilled back open after gluing and the Titebond is harder to drill and sometimes will even deflect an extension bit. That isn't a problem with the urethanes. If not for that one problem, I would probably use Titebond too. It is good stuff. da Count

Hi Hazmail. I've been using polyurethane glue for lure halves for about 8 years. In that time, I've probably made 4-5 thousand blanks and never had a glue failure. (at least none have ever been reported back to me.) I've tried Excel, Gorilla and Elmer's Ultimate, and they seem to work equally well, although I believe the Excel dried a bit harder. I'm using Elmer's now, because it's a bit cheaper and easier for me to get. The stuff is easy to use, simply dampen the wood halves, clamp for a few hours and you are good to go. I would suggest wearing gloves though, the stuff stains the skin. (if you don't mind the "what the happened to your hands?" comments, you can forgo the gloves) Hope this helps Count Draculure

Spoken like a true mud duck Rapp. Like him or not, you have to respect the man for his talent and accomplishments.

Hi, To make something like a Top Raider, you will need a "Tallywacker" tail (style L in the Moore's catalog) Creepers are a completely different lure. A Heddon Crazy Crawler is a creeper.

Hi Markc, Yup, Iwata hoses use standard NPT threads on the compressor end. (in the US anyway) You'll be able to find what you need at any place they sell plumbing or air tool stuff. Have fun! da Count

Right you are KC! It's also known as a Viking frog. It's your turn again. da Count

Ok, Here's one that was given to me by a friend who found it in an old dump site. I've left it just the way it was found, dirt and all. Have fun, Count Draculure

Hi Clemmy, Try Moore's lures. He lists the strengths of the split rings he sells. Lots of other cool components there too. http://www.mooreslures.com/ As far as strength goes, I try to go by whatever the weakest link is. There's no real need to use a 50 lb. connector when the line tied to it will break at 10. da Count

Hey KC Is it a Clyde Harbin?

Smokey, I hope you didn't think that I was trying to discourage you by pointing out that the idea of a real skin lure isn't new. It just seemed to me that if such a finish made for a significantly better producing lure, other companies would have produced some in the 70 years since Eder tried it. Granted, the Eders are frog skinned and and not realistically shaped. I think the LC's are beautiful, but I'm not sure that it would out-perform a nicely painted lure. That being said; I think if the idea intrigues you, you should by all means try it yourself. Who knows, you may discover a way to produce real skin lures faster and cheaper than using paint! Best of luck to you da Count

Real skin on lures isn't new at all. A company called Eger Bait Company made a lure covered in real frog skin back in the 1930's. They were issued a patent for the process in 1937. They also made frog skin covered lures for Shakespeare. It's cool to see how many "new" ideas were done many years ago using the materials that were available at the time. For example: the Shakespeare "Evolution bait". It features a minnow shaped rubber body that looks similar to the soft plastics of today. It came out in 1902 ! I enjoy studying old lures and am amazed at how ingenious some of the designs were; and I have seen a few post on this board that everything has been done before, don't believe it! I have come up with several designs that I can find no evidence of having ever been done before. It just takes a goal, dilligence, the ability to accept your failures and learn from them, and most importantly, thinking "outside the box". Keep pluggin' ! da Count

Hi Tigger, I use .062 or .093 304 Stainless TIG wire. It comes in 36 inch lengths and is available at any welding supply store. McMaster also offers stainless up to .062 in 24 inch lengths. They also offer SS wire from .009 to .162 in coils. da Count

Hi Emmet, You can't mix red, It is a primary color. You can however tint or shade it. If you add blue, you can make it more purplish, adding yellow will make it orange. Adding green will brown it up and white will make it pink. That being said, I don't know exactly what watermelon red is or what kind of paint you are using. I would suggest starting with the purest red you can find, and experiment a bit until you find the shade you are looking for. Good luck! da Count