dtrs5kprs
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Posts posted by dtrs5kprs
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T...just mod that puppy for the right hook and a guard. You know why you need it.
How's the Ranger project?
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Just wondering if anyone here uses Flex Coat as their epoxy coat. And if not why?
I've used it since this site was still the old site (pre TU). I love it, original high build at least.
Most of the complaints I have heard about it relate to the long cure time, and the need to use multiple coats. My baits get a base white coat, then FC over it. Once cured I shoot base colors-sides, bellies, backs, more or less. Then more FC. Detail is shot, dotted, etc on that layer of FC. Then another coat of FC. If using flake I add that now. Once cured, they get another final coat of FC. That seals the flake and makes the colors pop.
The multiple layers help add depth to your details. They also give you a chance to more easily wipe out mistakes when detailing.
There used to be a lot of info on FC here. It would be way back, like before I started the color recipe stickie. Think that was 2004 or 2005.
It is absolutely not a one coat finish. It holds up well, most of the wear ive had has been in the form of fine scratches from hooks and cover. When wet, they disappear. A quick smear of finish and some tape will fix those, like fixing gel coat scratches. It will chip if you chuck it into a dock corner, but most of the others will too. I have used it on everything from balsa square bills, to warts and wake baits. Think it also adds less weight, but never cared enough to check that.
Shoot me a pm if you want to try it and need any other help.
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Dave,
I only found 1/0 not the 1's. I'm still looking.
Sent you a pm.
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Gosh, I just saw this while I was looking into some wire guard info. Don't get around daily like back in the beginning. There were a lot of good guys who moved over from the old site and helped make this one what it is. Coley was certainly in that group.
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Were you able to find some?
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I've been using these for years.They work like a charm.
Thank you.
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Looks like a job for RTV and resin.
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Anyone have a better suggestion than diagonal or side cutters for cutting lots, and lots, and lots (no really, I mean lots) of Mason Multi Strand wire. Using 45# / 0.018 diameter for tiny wire guards and am cutting literally thousands.
Have a little tool to keep the length to a decent standard, but cutters are giving me fits.
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Those methods would be fine on a smaller scale. Even making them just for myself I pour and paint a few hundred. It is a tiny head we fish on 6# line in clear water, so you don't go to the lake withjust a dozen.
Thought on the epoxy it would be possible to cure them, then dip them fast and furiously in the 60min version, and hang to cure. The wire is something like 0.024 so it would be a minimal blob of glue if done quickly. Head cement might even work.
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I've heard this one before but have not tried it. When in the painting process are you doing it?Something else you might try is dipping the tips of the I coated wire in clear powder paint. This works very well to keep them from fraying. If done properly you can't even tell it's there when it cures.
My thought would be dip the head, then quickly dip the guard, but not sure it would be hot enough at that point.
Trying not to add a separate heating step. These are 1/16 and 1/8 oz finesse heads with #2 hooks, and I am painting in the hundreds of them.
Also thought about a quick dip in some 2 ton, but again the extra step is an issue.
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You do have to watch the upside down issue. Just got back from Table Rock, yesterday. Threw it on a 7' rod and 15# Invizx. Other things worked better for me, but it is hot there for others. That grub Davis fished, or any flappy craw like a paca craw worked. Was the first time I had used it in water below 75 degrees or so. Normally use it as an alternative to a FB jig in the summer.
I don't make enough to worry about the overflow. Will just keep trimming it. Looks like they just cut too much metal out.
The Hookerz folks sent samples out through the forum many years back. Pretty decent hooks.
If you use some shrink tubing to add a punch style keeper to the hook you will like that head even more.
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Doh! It is braided. Could not tell from the pic. Much appreciated.
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Lure parts online sell one and it isn't the one from Do-it but there own.
Looked for it, but did not find it. Will look again. All I found at LPO was the solid stainless wire, do it and a house version. Thanks.
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Anyone have a source for a twisted cable wire guard? Not looking for wire like a 7 strand or Mason wire. Have been using uncoated 45# Mason leader wire in a small jig, and have used a variety of coated leader wires. Looking for the type that is a bit less likely to fray, like a Jewel spider, among others.
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The M38104 is the prescribed hook, but I didn't have any and just used some of what I had. I am interested in finding a light wire hook for rigging a 4.5" centipede. Any thoughts?
BTW, I also have a problem with my mold that I will be calling Do-It about. One of the cavities has a flaw that causes lead to leak out on one side.
Have a similar issue with the 7/16oz cavity in mine. Have just been trimming the excess so far. Is kind of a pain when it fills the loop.
Have used regular Gamak EWG from 2/0-4/0, the superline EWG, and some cheap-o BPS EWG hooks. The BPS actually work pretty well, considering the price. At Table Rock they are a relatively disposable head anyway.
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I emailed them this morning so they can follow up on this.
Much appreciated. Had not had a chance to do so yet today.
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Have you tried calling them?
I haven't heard any other reports of problems, but calling them is always the best way to resolve issues like this. Not sure if there is anyone there today or not.
If you'd rather email than call, you can shoot an email to info@lurepartsonline.com.
Let me know if you need further help.
They are closed weekends. If anyone else is having issues, the proluresonline.com address is working fine, can access the same products. Same user info to log in. Still getting glitches at the other address. Maybe running updates or something?
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Just wondering if I am the only one having trouble with the Lure Parts Online website? Have not been able to complete an order for the last few days. Tried Chrome, and Explorer. With Explorer got as far as PayPal, hit confirm, and cart emptied...
Usually everything is smooth. The two browser fail concerned me.
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Have always used a mix of the MF NB watermelons (watermelon and watermelon brown), and 2 sizes of red flake from Lurecraft, usually with mid size black. Some of the greens have always been tricky about fading or changing color after being poured.
Q's (or assumptions)...
Color is mixed well?
Salt added?
Does the same flake cause changes to any of your other colors?
Does the flake look "ok" after poured, still red, not curled, etc.?
If it is not a temperature or process problem, might just need to add some extra green color of one flavor or another.
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Jerry could read the writing on the wall with the old site and knew it was doomed...Thanks for your foresight to start T U Jerry!!..Nathan
Still too bad we lost the info from that site.
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I'm loving retirement Pete! The end of this month marks my first year. How have you been?
Gene
We are here. We read and watch. Amazing what has happened over the years.
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Someone will be along soon with the answers you need. I am new to this also. I have a drill bit clamped in a pair of vice grips that I use to clean the drip/pour hole with. After I pour out the lead and unplug the unit I clean and scrape the hole each time before I put it away. So far that process is working . I don't think you are supposed to mess with it if you have liquid lead in the pot. It is probably considered an unsafe method. Hope this helps.
Hmmm...have never emptied either of mine, actually top it off with sprues and loose lead before I kill the power. Probably keep about 8# in it at all times. It looks like a wreck, but that is mostly from all the weedguard melties on the outside. I do keep a bent jumbo paper clip around for clogs, but have not had one since running a bunch of wheel weights thru for ingots several years ago.
Also feel free to run that temp control up. Usually pour no less than setting 7, will run it all the way if trying to get lead to flow around spinnerbait wires, spoon frames, etc.
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Good results on my 2 orders this year, first since the change. No paper catalog yet, but the online works fine. Great prices on some of the gamakatsu jig hooks.
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If it is an old paint issue there is a workaround. Kind of goofy, but you can thin it a little, shake it well, then strain it through something like cheesecloth. Should separate out the little clumps, had a similar problem last week. If it does not work by all means look at other setup issues...psi, cone, needle, dirty brush (back in the brush, around trigger, etc).
BTS Molds
in Soft Plastics
Posted
Let us know if you get it. They have one I'd like, but...yeah.