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Delw last won the day on April 21 2019

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  1. Big A

    New Member to the forum and requesting any help on a color formula to closely replicate Culprit"s Blue Moccosin Shad. 

  2. Mike water based degreasers like, zap, simple green ,grease lightning you shouldnt use on alum. Dave(vodkaman) can probly give the chemical properties. What happens is these chemicals will etch the alum like an acid, the black your getting is a type of burn and the plastic will stick to the alum., if your fast you shouldnt have any problems. I wouldnt recommened using them at all on alum products. if you do use them have a bucket of clean water right next to it and rince IMMED. then blow dry them off immed. Personally I wouldnt reccomend useing any of them. we used to wash out commercial
  3. Dave do you have any pics or a better description of where its not filling? Also what mold? the 5.5rwst 4.5rwst or the 4" ring worm 3 cavity? here are some things that may help you. DONT PRE HEAT ALUM MOLDS You'll ruin them and its not necc. maybe 1-2 cycles in the mold with hot plastic at the most but ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER HEAT SOURCE. when you suck the plastic up make sure you hold the tip at a 45 degree angle or so upright and GENTALY push the plunger this will help get any air out of the injector thats in there. YOU DONT NEED TO CYCLE ANY INJECTOR, as your doing nothing but creating mor
  4. That would work, or you could pour a circle of plastic and make something like a cookie cutter kinda to cut the tails, we had guys do that in the past, there should be some pics or post up from around 2004/2005? Vodka man might remember that one.
  5. Sticky plastic generally means your plastic isnt mixed enough. what happens is the hardener settles and the softener is on top. so you get to much softener causing a sticky plastic. then your plastic will get progressivly harder the more you use of it do to ,not the right amount of softener in it. and too much hardener will also give you a sticky bait. other things that can make a plastic sticky is what type of additives you put in it, mainly has to do with some scents.
  6. The "BEST" is a pretty hard one to describe as everyone has a different view of whats "BEST" Polyone is the BEST as far as clearity and not turning yellow, but as far as price its expensive compared to others. Years ago(4-5) Spike it has a really good one or used to make a really good plastic but again like poly one is was very expensive( they also make a cheaper one as well, or used to.) Were talking BEST as being quality plastic NOT counting in price. you can get plastics made that are the best but its expensive, unless your buying truck loads. M-f is under the above 2 then everything e
  7. The slim stiks are pretty close to the org slim senkos, both in 4in and 5 inch, off the top of my head I think the 5" is around 5/16 dia. Delw
  8. yes the side wings not the tail, that mold was the first batch that went out( I can tell by the cuts LOOKS terrible lol), I can tell by the undercuts along the bait bottom. tails and side wings the face was stepped down .004 in certain places Delw
  9. Bill that mold is pretty old, it will poor 10 times better if you drill a 1/16th hole in the bottom of each wing. both sides.
  10. DINP is Softener its NOT worm oil worm oil is a completely different ball game, worm oil will evaporate and it will turn yellow as there is NO UV inhibators in worm oil. worm oil is also alot thinner than Softener aka DINP Delw
  11. Delw

    Custom Molds?

    Bob your information(especially one #1, 2 and 3) is not correct and overly complicated. heres the simple version. for small molds this post has nothing to do with big molds for real injection machines, for the most part lets say you want a mold for a zorn machine or that type of machine, every machineshop that has the capabilities of doing it, will pretty much charge you the same price as zorn becuase it takes the same amount of time generally. 1st things 1st, Custom machine work is just that CUSTOM. there is generally NO print, only a sample to go off of or an idea. Unlike a blue print were
  12. Jerry looks really really nice,, you did a fantastic job its clean looking and the colors are great,. and its fast I now can see private msgs that I could never find the button for in the past LOL Delw
  13. Dont take this wrong as its not meant to be. I program for people and have been programming for people and myself since the early 90's, Ive trained people how to program machines for a local machine company here as a side job in AZ as well.I also run my own shop. bottom line you would have to be an absolute fool to get a program from someone you dont know and run it on your equipment, especially off the internet. there are many reasons why, but the main reason is a program might crash then your out a machine and the time and everything else. is it worth the value of your machine to ruin i
  14. Bo this one threw me for a loop, I am looking at the cad file and its saying round, it could be a mathmatical annomly ( vodkaman can explain that better) I have seen it happen on threads on some metric stuff and running full 4th axis on some convoluted grooves but never on a mold with 3 axis like this. what happens is when you change a angle or a number sometimes you get a series of numbers that the machine control just doesnt like and interripits wrong. these are running polyline but the spacing is .0025 apart for the rib ( the program for a fs7 4 cavity mold is 8megs long) too me the pic
  15. The problem is pretty simple to fix, its the plastic its just to hard of a plastic to pour in that small of a hole. what happens is that even at a hotter temp the plastic wont get thin enough to pour very well. go with the super soft plastic like people have said and DONT use softener or at least very little, your plastic will be much thinner and much easier to pour.. on a 3" stick the hole opening is only 3/16 if memory serves me correctly. it will pour great but just not with a hard plastic due to how thick it pours. if you ahve any problems just let me know. Delw
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