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Delw

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Everything posted by Delw

  1. Mike water based degreasers like, zap, simple green ,grease lightning you shouldnt use on alum. Dave(vodkaman) can probly give the chemical properties. What happens is these chemicals will etch the alum like an acid, the black your getting is a type of burn and the plastic will stick to the alum., if your fast you shouldnt have any problems. I wouldnt recommened using them at all on alum products. if you do use them have a bucket of clean water right next to it and rince IMMED. then blow dry them off immed. Personally I wouldnt reccomend useing any of them. we used to wash out commercial
  2. Dave do you have any pics or a better description of where its not filling? Also what mold? the 5.5rwst 4.5rwst or the 4" ring worm 3 cavity? here are some things that may help you. DONT PRE HEAT ALUM MOLDS You'll ruin them and its not necc. maybe 1-2 cycles in the mold with hot plastic at the most but ABSOLUTELY NO OTHER HEAT SOURCE. when you suck the plastic up make sure you hold the tip at a 45 degree angle or so upright and GENTALY push the plunger this will help get any air out of the injector thats in there. YOU DONT NEED TO CYCLE ANY INJECTOR, as your doing nothing but creating mor
  3. That would work, or you could pour a circle of plastic and make something like a cookie cutter kinda to cut the tails, we had guys do that in the past, there should be some pics or post up from around 2004/2005? Vodka man might remember that one.
  4. Sticky plastic generally means your plastic isnt mixed enough. what happens is the hardener settles and the softener is on top. so you get to much softener causing a sticky plastic. then your plastic will get progressivly harder the more you use of it do to ,not the right amount of softener in it. and too much hardener will also give you a sticky bait. other things that can make a plastic sticky is what type of additives you put in it, mainly has to do with some scents.
  5. The "BEST" is a pretty hard one to describe as everyone has a different view of whats "BEST" Polyone is the BEST as far as clearity and not turning yellow, but as far as price its expensive compared to others. Years ago(4-5) Spike it has a really good one or used to make a really good plastic but again like poly one is was very expensive( they also make a cheaper one as well, or used to.) Were talking BEST as being quality plastic NOT counting in price. you can get plastics made that are the best but its expensive, unless your buying truck loads. M-f is under the above 2 then everything e
  6. The slim stiks are pretty close to the org slim senkos, both in 4in and 5 inch, off the top of my head I think the 5" is around 5/16 dia. Delw
  7. yes the side wings not the tail, that mold was the first batch that went out( I can tell by the cuts LOOKS terrible lol), I can tell by the undercuts along the bait bottom. tails and side wings the face was stepped down .004 in certain places Delw
  8. Bill that mold is pretty old, it will poor 10 times better if you drill a 1/16th hole in the bottom of each wing. both sides.
  9. DINP is Softener its NOT worm oil worm oil is a completely different ball game, worm oil will evaporate and it will turn yellow as there is NO UV inhibators in worm oil. worm oil is also alot thinner than Softener aka DINP Delw
  10. Delw

    Custom Molds?

    Bob your information(especially one #1, 2 and 3) is not correct and overly complicated. heres the simple version. for small molds this post has nothing to do with big molds for real injection machines, for the most part lets say you want a mold for a zorn machine or that type of machine, every machineshop that has the capabilities of doing it, will pretty much charge you the same price as zorn becuase it takes the same amount of time generally. 1st things 1st, Custom machine work is just that CUSTOM. there is generally NO print, only a sample to go off of or an idea. Unlike a blue print were
  11. Jerry looks really really nice,, you did a fantastic job its clean looking and the colors are great,. and its fast I now can see private msgs that I could never find the button for in the past LOL Delw
  12. Dont take this wrong as its not meant to be. I program for people and have been programming for people and myself since the early 90's, Ive trained people how to program machines for a local machine company here as a side job in AZ as well.I also run my own shop. bottom line you would have to be an absolute fool to get a program from someone you dont know and run it on your equipment, especially off the internet. there are many reasons why, but the main reason is a program might crash then your out a machine and the time and everything else. is it worth the value of your machine to ruin i
  13. Bo this one threw me for a loop, I am looking at the cad file and its saying round, it could be a mathmatical annomly ( vodkaman can explain that better) I have seen it happen on threads on some metric stuff and running full 4th axis on some convoluted grooves but never on a mold with 3 axis like this. what happens is when you change a angle or a number sometimes you get a series of numbers that the machine control just doesnt like and interripits wrong. these are running polyline but the spacing is .0025 apart for the rib ( the program for a fs7 4 cavity mold is 8megs long) too me the pic
  14. The problem is pretty simple to fix, its the plastic its just to hard of a plastic to pour in that small of a hole. what happens is that even at a hotter temp the plastic wont get thin enough to pour very well. go with the super soft plastic like people have said and DONT use softener or at least very little, your plastic will be much thinner and much easier to pour.. on a 3" stick the hole opening is only 3/16 if memory serves me correctly. it will pour great but just not with a hard plastic due to how thick it pours. if you ahve any problems just let me know. Delw
  15. The molds were never changed frm the org one or from a hand pour to a hand injection except the angle of them. Looking at the pics I am like thats not my mold LOL it should be just like the org. nly thing I changed was the angle of the worm so it would fit in a smaller plate, that shouldnt have any bearing on the shape of the worm, Bo send me a sample of that bait, I havent changed the program in over 2 years? I will figure out what happened. the last few I made I thought they looked funny but figured it was my eyes and an optical illusions. Delw
  16. people have been using all types of heated pots for a while, presto and others. Dont know about the one you showed the best one by far that I know of is Crock pots they are all glass/ceramic and the temp stays more constent. of cource there is no place for a mixer. the problem with other pots is they are made out of alum or pot metal and the heatlin element only works on the bottom and not the sides so the heat doesnt get distributed evenly. The guys that have used crock pots like them much better especially for colors with glitter in them and colors that burn easy, they say they heat the p
  17. Thats the tricky part. this is what I know was tried. small air tubes piped in with copper on the bottom, a roatisory motor(sp)with an auger system like you mentoned going length wise one that did work but took some room, I think like every 4 or 5 tubes wide, used electric egg beater motor for the drive. and pulleys every 4-5 tubes with paddles on them. to connect them you use a rubber band so to speak. its a industrial rubber band comes in a roll about 1/8-3/16 diameter you cut to length and fuse together with a lighter. the pulleys are simple its just a grooved rod so to speak with a set
  18. heres a link to brownells, tank burner stand etc the tank is cheaper than I thought it would be http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=403/Products/Metal_Bluing
  19. the guys that I know that do it for a living use long black iron (or steel) retangular pots, 4x6inch wide up 8inchs deep they use gas burners to heat the plastic above that is a rack, they dip as many long as they can fit dip once set up on the rack grab another rack dip again. a few of the guys have different tubs of plastic at different temps and just move the rack. also you can use salt in the tanks and make a mixer that wont get into the way of the dipping process. some guys have it automated and it can be built very easy using home tools out of your garage. I have some drawings some
  20. My typeing wasnt the best as usual, I wasn't knocking the preso pot lots of guys had made them before bear. one guy was/is selling them long before. I see no difference between a presto pot and a lee pot as far as a lawsuit goes, how ever because one was used for cooking food and one is used for cooking lead/plastic. if a cooking pot catchs fire and is sold by someone , specifically for using plastic for worms he's going to get sued well before someones lee pot that was used for plastic or lead. it the way it works, will the guy actually sue? who knows, but if the insurance is involved and a
  21. the way I understand it is Lee pots are built for plstic and lead, presto pots are designed for food, adding a valve will turn it into something else. seems silly to me, Pressure pots are for cooking fod under normal stive pressures, once you modiy one for ANYTHING else your open to a lawsuit, Ie the company who modifed the pressure pot. All american pressure cookers are one of the best and strongest and have NON plastic lids, they are also used alot for pressure pots in plastic. if you mention to them when you purchase the pot you are using it for something else they WILL not sell them to y
  22. Get a pin or razor blade, prick some holes in the biat or cut slices in them, put them in a plastic bag. pour scent into the bag, then put that plastic bag into another one and zip it shut. stick in in the microwave for 30 seconds maybe a min if your microwave isnt strong. then your done, the scent will stay on them for a long time. Delw
  23. your always going to have some kind of plastic that cools off in the injector, even if its a small amount it will need to be cleaned out, I would think it would be impossible to make it otherwise. one reason to have more than 1 injector and alwyas leaves the ones your NOT using in a batch of hot plastic. I'd be curious about getting one ceramic coated on the outside to see how that worked, I dont shoot hours on end I shoot a few baits at a time so I dont have to wrap the injector, but the napa 1 pint one made of steel I do have to wrap with a towel and duct tape to use it when testing the bi
  24. the video on you tube I saw a few months ago, used heat exchangers, the plasic from the pots is not hot, it only gets hot in the heat exchanger, so the tubing aand lines wont hurt anyone if they break or leak. there was also one wth pressure pots that heated the plastic that will have pressure and hot plastic in the lines, thats an old zorn molds design(pressure pot one) I am sure he got the prints from the same guy who gave me the prints years ago. I got the prints after we had made a few of them( customers did I just made them parts), and they were pretty much close(simple design) except th
  25. aside from POwer worm listed you guys forgot the most important thing to people making injection machines. Liability Insurance. its bad enough for hand injected molds and hand injectors, but you talk about a machine with pressure and hot plastic on it the whole times its on? theres not to many people that will insure you for this and the ones that do comes at a very very high price. Sure someone can get by with out insurance but once you do that and someone gets hurt your FINISHED done and finacualy(sp) ruined. also to add to what powerworm said about affordable" affordable for who? the gar
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