Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

1 Follower

About Celticav

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Celticav


    You guys should familiarize yourselves with some of the lead recipes for reloaders...I first started pouring lead to reload with and there is a wealth of information all over the web on alloys, recipes, tech, etc. For some great reading checkout http://www.bullet-metals.com/ or http://www.theantimonyman.com/index.htm You guys should love these, JIM
  2. Sounds like your brush maybe getting clogs. Try occasionally putting the tip in a cup filled with water, alcohol, mineral spirits, etc and trigger the brush with the tip submerged or place a cotton ball soaked with the same over the tip and spray, this will clear any minor clogs. One thing that worked really well for me is putting some Super Lube Dri-Film on my needle after clean up and before I used the brush, once it dries it will not intefere with your paint. JIM
  3. Wow, thats a loaded question! LOL, "Best" is a a matter of personal preference as always. Silicone is hard to beat for alot of reasons, but for my personal baits there is nothing like Lumaflex. It can be dyed almost any color you want, it looks great in the water and it is almost indestructible plus works with more accent materials than others. But it is also more work than silicone or rubber too...JIM
  4. Be sure to prime your heads asap to keep the lead from oxidizing or you'll end up spending alot of time cleaning them. I like Eastwood's self etching primer personally, but any decent primer should do. The Badger is a fine tool and should do you nicely for a long time. Everyone loves Createx and for good reasons, but I still use alot of Testors model paints. I have three tips for newbie airbrush'ers: 1. If your spraying besides acrylics then a can of carburetor cleaner is a necessity, a couple of shots makes clean up too easy. 2. Thin your paint to the viscosity of skim milk and run it thru a filter before you try to spray it. 3. It might not work for everyone but 75% of my airbrushing problems go away at 60 psi. The only other thing I can recommend is keep doing searches and reading the posts here, JIM
  5. Good advise, I especially like thought of the turned eye. I have been meaning to pick up the worm nose mold for my own version, the double barbs should hold the plastic better..or at least I hope, JIM
  6. Paasches Air-Eraser will shoot powder also. PaBasser's tip on using muriatic acid to etch the blades works great (it is also a good way of corroding a buzzbait rivet to get some extra sweak) or try Eastwoods self etching primer. The biggest problem with powder or epoxy on blades is chipping at the sides, the best thing I have used to avoid this is Pelucid clear coating, JIM
  7. I have tried these before, some guy used to sell them on ebay a couple of years ago. While the three I got didn't bring me any luck the design is supposed to be especially deadly on smallies. JIM
  8. I also use flat waxed nylon, not only because of its strength but also because it doesn't build up like other threads. Another good thread for jigs is Carpet thread from wally world. JIM
  9. If you are going for a chemically aided squeak then bleach or even tap water can be used to corrode aluminum rivets if you let them soak for a couple of days or let a few rivets sit in the saline solution for contact lens. I like muriatic acid for steel or copper rivets. Gold blades and corroded copper rivets make a hell of a racket. For a mechanically aided squeal the easiest is just to crimp the rivet so it does not spin or over-sized holes on the blade will produce much more squeak as will filing a couple of grooves in the rivet face or rough up the rivet face and the back of the blade where it makes contact with the rivet. Hope it helps, JIM
  10. Welcome aboard, I would go with Worth, they make a good swivel, plus they make some great blades, beads, and everything else you will need except skirting. Sampos are way too expensive and have no characteristics that warrants the price difference. Personally would buy the japanese B.B. swivels before I would get Sampos, I have not ever seen anyone that would buy a bait over another brand because it had a Sampo on it and the other one didn't. Regardless I have been using Worth swivels for years and never had a complaint yet, JIM
  11. She got hers in a 3-pack with a single action H and a larger cup gun, both of which have plenty of uses and she paid under $60, hard to beat that. I use the cup gun all the time, as soon as I can I will do some test stripes on some regular size cranks with the pencil and post a pic of what I end up with, later, JIM
  12. Try using a little JB Weld to patch the areas that are giving you flash. It takes time to correctly modify a mold, I find it best to make adjustments gradually; it usually takes several attempts to get it just right. If you do go with a custom mold you are probably looking at anywhere from $50 and up for labor, JIM
  13. One of our friends has one that came in a three gun airbrush kit and she never uses it, it is tricky...you have to know your paint is perfect and it works best for long straight lines like penstripes. It is basically just an overgrown fountain pen. There is an optional cup that is spring assisted which would be great, but it costs more than the gun does, JIM
  14. Indeed, glad to hear some positive feedback about a company. Its too often that we only hear about the bad experiences, few people seem to take the time to post the good ones. I have heard only good things about Hitech molds and hope to try them myself soon, post some pics of your new jigs, I look forward to seeing them. JIM
  15. I know it sounds funny but I was in a club with a guy that cut a 12 foot salt water spinning blank down to 6'6" that made a good all around. He used it on everything from t-rig to flukes to spinners and liked it so much he made another just like it. He let me try one out one day and it was amazingly versatile. The top two feet or so was so limber it would load enough to rocket out a jerkbait with just a flick, but the give went quickly from that to pure backbone. I don't remember what brand blank it was but I believe it was a cheaper one, I do remember him saying he had less than $50 in each one. I can look him up and find out for you if your interested, hope it helps, JIM
  • Create New...