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Posts posted by dlaery
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+1 on this
1 hour ago, aulrich said:I worry a little less about lead while pouring, (I do do the basic well ventilated and a fan), then if I have to file or saw the lead vapors go away lead dust will stay on your work bench and other places so you can pick it up months later. if I am stuck filing i do it right over the lead pot or at least over a paper to capture the bits.
For the most part I avoid the issue by using pre-made shapes lead shot either bird shot or buckshot
You will get lead poisoning by not washing you hands. don't eat drink or smoke while working with lead. wash your hands before you put anything in your mouth.
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Thanks!
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then that is probably part of my problem, i am using too much re-melt. when we mix more
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thanks!
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i get my plastic from color tech, med soft. I am using an shooting star melting pot at 280F. On Pearl, and bubble gum the plastic gets darker as I pour.
If I go lower than 280 then it doesn't' pour well at all.
would stabilizer help?
in the pic the pearl on the right side looks good, on the left it is getting darker.
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i have some if you interested. I don't think I will need them anymore. i would sell a few or all.
660-547-2874
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I found the vid
I made some, didn't have the correct sockets but I used a small press I have. we haven't tried them yet
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Thanks! i will look into that
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Thanks!
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28 minutes ago, SlowFISH said:
don't get caught up with over thinking the pot is hotter here than there, etc etc and
that's gonna be hard to do.
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ok thanks, that makes sense.
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On 7/5/2023 at 7:44 PM, bryanmc said:
Should have mentioned that the ends of the bar that hold the t-couple fit in between the legs and the pot on either end.
so a thermocouple with a probe? or a surface mount like this https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_3&products_id=273
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5 minutes ago, bryanmc said:
Throw the whole plug in power thing away and connect the SSR directly to the pins that come from the element. As far as the thermocouple, I drilled a little divot in the bottom of the pot (not a hole, really just an indent for the nose of the t-couple to sit in). Then I took a piece of metal bar and ran it diagonally across the bottom of the pot. I drilled a hole in it corresponding to the divot in the middle and mounted the t-couple there. You just need to make sure the nose of the t-couple is snug against the bottom of the pot.
ok, thanks!
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hey thanks!, that helps. I will do the PID, i haven't decided how to mount the thermal coupler. I guess I could take the thermostat apart on the presto and see if I can see some wires to connect to the thermocouple post on the PID.
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do these do a good job of keeping the plastic from burning?
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is there a 3rd option for a melter?
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9 hours ago, Miamisheriff said:
Jacobs Molds has been making them for over a decade. Look at Zorn Molds for full production injectors. Hotrunner machines (Brad Selph) is a shady individual. Heard tons of complaints.
Thanks
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i am looking for something to keep the plastic stirred, temp controlled. the air pressure looks good too.
I have looked at the shooting star, i have looked at hotrunner machines.
is there any others similar?
is there any plans on building one, like heaters, stirrers etc...?
thanks
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8 minutes ago, Jig Man said:
The air dry doesn’t work. It crumbles and falls out. High temp red has always been extremely hard for me to remove. I only use it for permanent mods.
I push it in with a putty knife, and that seems to help keep it in
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3 minutes ago, Jig Man said:
Do I need to let it air cure?
well no, it does not get hard or cure at all. when you're done, just pull it out of the mold and if you're careful you can probably use it again. I never do because I have plenty more.
the way we cure it is in a vulcanizing frame that puts 3000 lbs of pressure and 350F degrees for 90 minuets and then the rubber/mold is hard and then it is used for making lead heads.
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15 hours ago, Jig Man said:
That would be great. The pic is exactly what I want to do. I will pm my info. Thanks a bunch. Be sure to include your return address.
you're almost close enough to drive to my place, I'm north of Warsaw 5 miles
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this is silicone used for spincasting molds
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My Alaska Pressed Penny lures.
in Wire Baits
Posted
what do the quarters look like?
sorry