MADA

You migth also try to use powder paint. I use something they call polyester powder but i guess it is the same as powderpaint. It really take reheats well. But if you try this make sure to mix the paint in a litle bit of plastic before you add the rest of the plastic. I use one of my retired artist brushes for this.

Sorry, my reply was for that fella in UK when it comes to the companies.

You can use powderpaint or mica powder if you allready got those. Just remember to mix the powder paint with a little plastic first before you put in the rest of the plastic you want to heat, This is because it is difficult to get it mixed if done the other way. You could check btowstore.com for mica. The flouroscent powders are really brigth and seems to take reheating really well. Have you checked the colourant from Lurefactors, i dont think his prices is to steep...

I make the core pins long enough to go into the tail. So then when you cut of the tail you are certain that there is an hole all the way thru the body for the core color to travel in. I also mark my mold so i know where the pins must lay to get the mold shut. You can also take one of the hollowed out bodies and "smear" the inside with some glitter/ mica powder and shoot the core color and that way get three color bait. But to be frank, it is kind of addictive... Magne

Hi, my firts post here. Have just been lurking around in the shadows and watching you guys. I have an problem for you. The mold in question is Jacobs 1,5 inch stinger I did make an lamiplate of thin metall sheet which cuts the stinger in two. Took then one of the halves and put back and shot another collor, but the tails did really curl up and also about half the cavities did not fill properly. I then took som more halfs and pinched of the tails , heated the mold and shot some more. About 25 % came out without tails. The halves was black an the second colour was pearl. Is some coloures more difficult to work with than others? What can be wrong doctor? Magne