benton B

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About benton B

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/19/1967

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  • Location
    Arkansas
  1. Envirotex lite 30 min epoxy mixing

    Let e-tex sit for about 8 min and it won't be so runny when you brush it on your baits, brush off the excess also. You will need 2 coats anyway.
  2. Balsa crank problems

    If you want to harden the balsa use runny superglue it will give the bait a hard outer shell. Cut the lip slot deeper and maybe just a tad lower on the chin of that bait in the pic. I would also twist screw eyes from 20ga ss wire, less chance of cracking the wood.
  3. Glitter and Epoxy

    Flex coat makes a glitter to mix with the rod finish and it's ultra fine. I mix in the first clear coat and it's pretty smooth when cured but then I do a 2nd coat and it's perfectly smooth. It might be the size of glitter you are using.
  4. Belly weight for 2 1/4 flat side balsa bait

    I would start with a 1/8oz and test. I build baits that size and that's the ballast weight I use. I use xps finesse weights from bass pro, cut to the size I want and then add a 1/16 brass cotter pin for the hanger.
  5. Paint peeling off epoxy

    try cleaning the bait with denatured alcohol, that's what I use with flex coat epoxy and never had a issue.
  6. Tacky Etex

    Mix 1:1 do not add more hardener it will affect the mixed batch. Let the mixed batch sit for 8-10 min before brushing on your baits.
  7. Wildlife Colors iridescent blue

    taxidermy sites will carry wildlife colors, the one Hughesy posted is the company I deal with for paint.
  8. ETex topcoat problems

    I had the same issue using flexcoat with a fast lure turner. I now use a turner that rotates at 6rpm and no more problem with pooling.
  9. ETex topcoat problems

    Your turner is moving too fast for a thin clear coat. Let the mixed batch of etex sit for about 8-10 min before you coat a lure so it's not so thin.
  10. Sealing Wooden Crank preferences

    I install the hardware before sealing. 1 coat super glue to harden the wood, 1 coat epoxy to seal the wood.
  11. Barrel twist wire screw eye

    I use a cordless drill with a small allen wrench chucked, I think it's 5mm. Bend your wire into a U shape grab the tag ends with vise grips, slip loop over the allen wrench and slowly twist.
  12. FIELD TESTING CRANKBAITS

    I'm in the camp with Bobp, very good notes are keep on each body style I build. Each body style has it's own formula for ballast weight, line tie position, lip angle, lip depth, line tie and hook hanger weights, and finally the wood blank weight. When that bait is finished it will be within of .010 of the finished weight in the formula or that bait does not make the cut. This is the process I use and it works for me. I do all my field testing in the warmer months.
  13. FIELD TESTING CRANKBAITS

    I've been building the same models of cranks for years now and never put one in the water to see if runs. If you follow a repeatable formula for building your cranks then there should not be any problems from the 1st bait to 100th bait. If you make a change in the formula then you might run into problems.
  14. Flip flop paints

    Wildlife colors has a blue/red flip flop paint. That might give you color change you are looking for.
  15. System Three Syringes

    I would go to mud hole and get the syringes made for rod finish.