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Trollfish

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  1. Nearly all the lead I have used has been recycled from batteries. When I get one I drain the acid by drill a hole low in each cell with a drill over a plastic tub. Let it drain by removing the caps and neutralize it with baking soda. Then I flush it with water and rinse. Using a hammer and sharpened cold chisel I cut away all the plastic I can. Sometimes I keep the acid in a plastic jug to clean up brass parts and such. Have even used it to restore a few batteries that were low on acid. Next I have a 55 gallon drum I have installed a grate in to burn wood and coal. The bottom has been dented out to make a depression like a bowl. Here in the bottom of the bowl I cut a hole for a drain. Poked holes for ventilation in the sides to keep it burning. Build a good hot wood fire, drop battery remains in. Put a collection pan underneath and let her go. The lead melts and runs out the bottom of the drum. Wait for it to cool and cut with cold chisel to fit my pot. I usually wait till I have five or six batteries and end up with enough lead to last a lifetime for peronal use. The lead makes nice jigs and spoons and are very durable. More so than pure lead which tends to dent easy. I use a Lee Production pot and have had no problems melting or pouring this lead. Be careful of two things, fumes from fire are noxious and are not good for you to breathe. Never do this in the rain, if water gets on lead that is in liquid form it will explode and splatter. Good luck.
  2. I have been reading the posts like a mad man and have looked at all the great work here. You guys do fantastic baits. The painting is exceptional and I assume most is done by airbrush. I have tried to use them and find them to be very frustrating to work with. I have not used one that I like or get the results I want. Could be I'm cheap too and buy junk. I don't know. For the past three years, I have used spray paint in cans but don't get near the type of detail and finish I see here. So here are my questions. What is the recommended model you fellows use?. How much is it? How much maintnance does it require? How fast can I switch colors or do I need to clean it before switching colors.( I like to wet blend colors for a more natural look) I know that is a lot of questions, but any help or advice would be appreciated.
  3. Glad it worked for you, very nice looking pour. From experience, Babbit will oxidize just like any lead if left exposed. I usually don't care because I don't paint my jig heads. My favorite soft plastic color is smoke, and tarnished heads fit with my bait color nicely. Could be I'm lazy too.LOL Pour em, use em, usually lose em is my routine. You can clear coat fresh pours with a clear laquer(sp?) or clear powder coat. I like the powder coat cause you can take the lure straight from the mold and it is hot enough to dip right then and there. Then put them in the oven for 2-3 hours at 250 deg and it bakes to a hard clear finish. Not sure what the name of what I use is but I can get to you with it tommorow. They sell it at Netcraft.com. Cool Stuff.
  4. Nice looking lure. I have a trick that I use on my thru wire musky baits that may help you. I lay out the pattern on a square blank trying to keep the grain in line with the length of the lure and keeping the layout straight . Then before I carve or turn on the lathe, I predrill all the holes for my thru wires. If the drill gets off course, I can start over with out having the frustration of ruining a good carve. When turning on the lathe, I use the predrilled holes for centering the stock. When carving, I run a piece of coat hanger wire thru the blank in the drilled holes to reference the center line of the bait and the profile is equal on both sides. Once the carving is done, I can be sure the holes are lined up right. I break from tradition and run my thru wire prior to painting. This has helped reduce touch ups and such after a good paint job from pliers slipping. To keep the paint off the eyes, I just cover them with masking tape. Hope this helps a bit.
  5. I have poured spoons and jigs with babbit, but I have never been able to do it with my Lee Production pot. It has a lot of tin in it for use in making bearings for lathes and table saws. When I used it, I had a cast iron pot over some wood fire and a ladle. My father the carpenter was none too happy about me using it either. Try a ladle and a pot over a fire to get the heat you need, it will pour. Watch the temp of your molds when working that high a temp, it can warp them a little.
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