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clemmy

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clemmy last won the day on June 14

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About clemmy

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  • Birthday 04/24/2007

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  1. The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  2. I don’t have as much experience with them as some on here, but most commonly Polytranspar and Lifetone are used I believe. McKensie Taxidermy carries them all. Be aware that they come in both lacquer and water-based versions.
  3. Auto Air makes a semi opaque cream. 4221 Otherwise for ready made I’d look at taxidermy paints for bone, or even bass belly white if you wanted a light cream. Createx Illustration has a bone in their bloodline series. Bob put you on the right track if you are going to mix it.
  4. I think there is room for everything. The idea of “custom” varies by individual, and there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with that. I think the difficulty comes when it marketed a a “custom bait” rather than a “custom painted” bait. I do think painters that copy should list the color as the color listed. For example, chartreuse with purple back should be “table rock shad” or “Hughsey TR Shad, or similar, not some random made up name. I think that would show a bit of respect or tip of the hat to the originator, even if you don’t know who it was). I don’t think there’s anything wrong with having a bait painted in a color not normally offered in that bait, like asking someone to paint a “Missouri Craw” on a Fat Rap. If you do it better, or cheaper than others, more power to you. If a fisherman has a belief that a custom paint job will catch him more fish, then it will. He’ll be expecting to get bit, pay better attention, use it more, etc. I personally believe that color can be important, but according to my research, fine detail doesn’t matter to most fish like bass on a moving bait, but depending on water clarity and color, light, depth and what the fish are keyed in on, color can matter. The exception would be slow moving baits like jerkbaits, suspending baits, etc. then they can get a longer look. To my mind, order of importance is depth>action>size>color. But I could well be wrong. My wife certainly tells me I am often enough, lol. out of curiosity Bassmaster, what kind of lure did you paint?
  5. Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could have a link to the thread (if there was one), a link to their posts (as a way of honoring their contribution to the hobby) and a comments section. Craig
  6. I recently got a Grex Tritium TS. Well thought out and user friendly. Maybe just a hair under the quality of my Iwatas. What I’d love to try would be a nice Harder and Steenbeck. I would consider several things if considering putting money into a good airbrush: 1) Am I using it just for lures? If doing paintings or things like helmets, a higher end brush with a finer tip needle might be needed. 2) Do I paint lures freehand? If you mainly doing large portions of a lure, or mainly using stencils, then you’d be better off with something other than a Micron, irregardless of price. On the other hand, if you are hand spraying in the rays of the pectoral fins, a Micron might be perfect. 3) What kind of paint do I use? If you use Apple Barrel paint from Walmart, or even straight Createx, Something like a Micron would be frustrating. If you are using thinned Wicked or Illustration, or illustration inks, a Micron level would be great. It would also matter if you are doing production vs a single bait
  7. Paw Paw Weedless Wow would be another vintage one
  8. Not sure if you mean 6mm long or wide. BPS has black nickel, on size 5.6 wide and one 5.6 long. owner makes black stainless but not sure of actual measurements
  9. You’d have to decide if you are talking about green chartreuse or yellow chartreuse. Technically there’s not just a “chartreuse” as a color, as both are named after the respective French Liquer. But in reality in fishing people seem to call either type “chartreuse”. For paint though I would choose a bright, cool yellow, such as lemon yellow and add a little bright green or bright greenish blue. When you still have yellow but it appears to you as a greenish yellow, to me that is yellow chartreuse. If you keep adding a little more so it appears to be halfway between bright yellow and bright green, that’s what I think of of as green chartreuse.
  10. Interesting thoughts. Though Dave you could also say it’s all based on drag ;) If you are interested, look up TRIZ. Really interesting research on inventing and design innovation. As for business, I’ve never sold a lure, but of course have thought about it. I decided that if I ever did it would have to be based on quality. The lure itself would have some sort of intrinsic value that brings pleasure to the owner, beyond just action, etcetera. If you look up some of the Japanese boutique top water “Surface Game” craftsman like Budd & Joey. It becomes about the enjoyment of fishing with a fine instrument, not just the catching. clemmy
  11. I happened across this, and found it very interesting. Particularly how the masters are enlarged. I imagine these were used in the Sisson duplicators. Found on a Bagley Collectors site, from the collection of Bill Whitesell https://thecolorsofbagleys.com/collections.html#worm
  12. This may help, though I’ve never done a walleye: https://www.mckenziesp.com/Walleye-Paint-Schedule-W1084.aspx craig
  13. Not sure what the wrap would be made from, but if some sort of polyelefin shrink, most of those are less dense than water, so would decrease shrink rate. I agree with Dave that paint should not really affect it much, but a think clearcoat would. That said, you may clearcoat both. craig
  14. not Sure how this double posted, please delete this one, Thanks
  15. I was wondering if anyone knows the difference between the Worth Aspen and the regular Worth blades? There’s regular, Aspen, and Aspen deep cup Colorado, and Aspen/Regular Willow spinner blades. obviously they are cupped differently, but how so? Is there more thump, less resistance spin at a different angle, etc? Thanks, Craig
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