Jump to content

clemmy

TU Member
  • Content Count

    874
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    9

clemmy last won the day on August 23 2019

clemmy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

114 Excellent

About clemmy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 04/24/2007

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. As Travis said, Swede was the one that used to provide the pellets before he passed. His source was the same as Rapala. I remember that there was different characteristics of propionate, so yo using the correct one was important. If any can read Finnish, I’m sure the info is common knowledge on their luremaking forum.
  2. Hello, Just wondering if ProTec”s Orange glow powder paint actually glows orange? I know some products are colored but still glow green. Thanks, Craig
  3. Jeff is spot on. Think of it in terms of fine art. You can try to make a version of DaVinci’s Mona Lisa, but it would look horrible in comparison to a master. There is also so much you can do with finishes/technique in terms of basecoats, layering, foils, candies, textures, effects, fades, etc. And there is research on why you are painting in this pattern/manner. Have you researched vision, color transmission, strike triggers, various types of contrast? You need to know the depth a certain bait is used at, and what way it is fished and at what time of year. Even clearcoating can give you an e
  4. Are you looking for color change paint or interference, as you mention both. Not sure what’s wrong with Createx or Golden? Many airbrush paints offer interference colors, including taxidermy airbrush paints, and even acrylic inks. For color change you could try the FolkArt craft paints, I’ve read here that folks like them thinned with a .5 airbrush tip. Another option would be buying the powder and adding to your clear. A limiting factor on any would be your airbrush tip size. Most would likely not work well with a .2 or .18 tip.
  5. Not tried a Spike it, but JJ’s Magic dyes silicone skirting well. It crinkles up at first, but then relaxes again as the dye dries. Craig
  6. Dave, Don’t forget it’s not just the COG, but the distribution. 20 grams at each end of a bait (or in whatever axis) would be a lot different than 40 grams near the COG. Craig
  7. It wouldn’t be too hard if you know someone that scubas. That’s essentially what M. Romanack did for the precision trolling/casting. Had divers with poles marked every foot and watched what level the bait went buy at. F. Prokop in Australia used a universities flume tank for his book, Don’t forget unless you are taking about trolling the castability of a bait will have a major effect on the running depth. Craig
  8. Dave, The original question was what would you do if a big company wanted 10k baits a month. Nice problem to have I guess, but the only option for most of us would be either: A) Outsource to someplace with cheap labor like China, Vietnam or in your case Indonesia. Your plan sounds like essentially you are outsourcing to yourself. Nice thing about that would be you would be there for quality control. B ) Sell your bait to an established company. I believe RAD lures actually did both with the Chatterbait. They got more orders than they could handle, so ou
  9. Just an idea for dipping/sealing if your lures are that long, you might try a pasta jar off eBay. Many of them have airtight seals.
  10. The perfect topcoat is fish saliva..
  11. I don’t have as much experience with them as some on here, but most commonly Polytranspar and Lifetone are used I believe. McKensie Taxidermy carries them all. Be aware that they come in both lacquer and water-based versions.
  12. Auto Air makes a semi opaque cream. 4221 Otherwise for ready made I’d look at taxidermy paints for bone, or even bass belly white if you wanted a light cream. Createx Illustration has a bone in their bloodline series. Bob put you on the right track if you are going to mix it.
  13. I think there is room for everything. The idea of “custom” varies by individual, and there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with that. I think the difficulty comes when it marketed a a “custom bait” rather than a “custom painted” bait. I do think painters that copy should list the color as the color listed. For example, chartreuse with purple back should be “table rock shad” or “Hughsey TR Shad, or similar, not some random made up name. I think that would show a bit of respect or tip of the hat to the originator, even if you don’t know who it was). I don’t think there’s anything wrong with havin
  14. Hello, I don’t post near as much as I used to, but am still here every couple days. I saw the new thread about the JR Hopkins DVD and I started thinking about the past of TU. I wonder if we shouldn’t have a “Lost and Found” sticky for formerly active members? More to let us know they’re okay, and just not into building, or having a difficult time, or whatever. Similarly, perhaps we should have a “In Memoriam” sticky. I know we unfortunately have had multiple threads in the past about Members who have passed, but they’re hard to find if you don’t know to look. Maybe each could
×
×
  • Create New...
Top