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AlamOso

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About AlamOso

  • Birthday 01/21/2007

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    http://www.alamolures.com

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  1. I don't think it is so necessary, but I do sand down the high spots. If two or more coats will be added, I'll sand with 120 grit sandpaper. Be careful not to sand so deep that you damage what is below the epoxy - like the coat of paint or lure body. Before a final coat, I'll use a finer grit like 400.
  2. I'm still around sometimes. I believe we have spoken via. PM before. By the way, Howdy, and Gig 'Em.
  3. Pop - that's a chrome plated brass cone head bead - the same that is used in fly tying. It has a "bell" shape that covers the grub nicely. They ar a lot like Bullet Weights. The size shown in the picture is 1/4" diameter. Go check out the fly section of any tackle shop, and I'm sure you'll find these conical beads.
  4. My appologies MUSKIEFOOL and BOOMAH. I sent the PM to Muskiefool. I'm forwarding it onto you, Boomah. :oops:
  5. Muskiefool, thanks for your opinion on trout. I can't wait until I can test it in a trout stream. Boomah, the overall length is 2-7/8". I have made a larger one with a #2 hook and #5 blade with a larger paddle tail grub. It was a little over 4" long. I probably will try to put it together as a product, but may still change a thing or two. It depends on some things working out. I sent you a PM.
  6. I consider it a spinner - but it's a hybrid too...see the post in the wire baits forum: http://tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=6793[/img]
  7. I had some success in the last few weeks testing out a new spinner that I made to target Guadalupe Bass. You can see a report, which includes some more details about it by clicking the link below. http://www.rivercitylures.50megs.com/rpts/20051203/20051203.htm Here are a couple of pictures of the spinner. It's made by attaching a spinner shank onto a streamer fly hook, with some flash tied in and topped off with a paddle tail grub.
  8. AlamOso

    Trout Skin

    Send me an e-mail sometime alamoso@alamolures.com I make baits with real rattlesnake skin, and maybe some of the techniques would work on fish too. People have asked me to try out fishskin, but if you're willing to do some experiments, I'll be happy to help out.
  9. I always cut a notch into the lip to give the epoxy a "step". For repairing lures, see http://www.rivercitylures.50megs.com/make/how2/aaa/ch4/ch4.htm If you do not coat the entire lip with epoxy, be sure to at least sand the area that will be glued into the lure body. This will help it bond more effectively.
  10. Sorry not to respond sooner ? I?ve been out of the loop for a while. After re-reading my post I can see that my questions were rather broad. You must get that a lot of that. What was meant by ?follow up? in the previous post was a second PPA, which included improvements, but compromises the priority date, I know. Thanks for your advice, Rodney. It seems that I have gone about the patenting process backwards. I could have used some advice like yours before I dumped resources into my projects that may prove to be unnecessary.
  11. Thanks Rodney for taking your time to help us out. I can see that you have put a lot of effort into this already. I would appreciate if you could help me out with a few questions also. Would making lures from a new material be patentable, especially if the new material served a function other than structure? I have been making composite lures with graphite fiber reinforced foam. Now not only does the composite have lightweight, high strength qualities, but I also assert the claim that it is more ?strike sensitive? (relying upon the characteristics of the material ? I have no formal testing to back this up yet). If you consider it ? other things in the fishing industry have been made from graphite fiber ? rods, line, etc. which carry the same claim. Why not the bait itself? You can see a sketch of the way I make these lures below, or go to http://www.fiberlures.com One other thing, I also make a device called Trailures. They are similar to Hitch Hikers except are fashioned so that they are a modification specific to ?MirrOLure? type baits. The installation instructions are linked below, and can also be viewed on my website. http://www.rivercitylures.50megs.com/tral/ins2.jpg Now the final question. I have these under provisional patents. I already have a follow-up on the Fiberlures, and am now looking at a follow-up on Trailures (as well as a second follow-up for Fiberlures). Is the concept involved with these items patentable? I?m just wondering if it is worth pursuing further protection. Thanks, Garrett "AlamOso"
  12. Thanks Cody. For some time I have prefered using Contact Cement By Loctite in lieu of super glue to bond the foil to the lure. it is much easier to work with (available at Walmart, Home Depot, etc.) I need to update that tutorial.
  13. I like the idea of having regional chapters - Northeast, Midwest, etc. But guys, you couldn't have just one chapter for Texas...I mean, it would have to be split into 4 or 5 regions too
  14. Guess it's time for our annual epoxy spat (no pun intended). Funny, it was almost one year ago that I posted some chemical properties of common resin systems. Remember this? http://www.rivercitylures.50megs.com/matl/epoxy/epoxy.htm I guess I really dropped the ball. I never completed it. Maybe I'll look at again soon. ***TIP*** For coating over foil - Leave some area on the lure (top and/or bottom strip) uncovered by foil. If you cover the entire bait with foil, and then coat the entire foil surface - what you have is a "floating" coat. The epoxy does not bond with the wood. Leave some bare areas (that expose the wood core) for the epoxy to bond onto. It is a much stronger topcoat to have the epoxy both adhearing to the wood core as well as to the foil. Of course, you'll have to paint over the bare areas. A little more surface bonding with the core in random areas will certainly help, no matter what resin you use.
  15. AlamOso

    Foam Topwater

    Thanks for sharing your foam molding research with us. Keep up the good work - I think that you are on to something!
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