joe32

Are the DVD's going to be multi region,as I live in england and understand that we have a different region from you guy's Also any idea how much it would be in the U.K and would it be possible to post over the pond. If it's as good as everyone say's I could see it being very popular over here. Look forward to seeing it if it's at all possible.

That would be my reaction,That is one hell of a lot of lead. Any body have any idea what the sink rate is ofthe original baits.

The router is attached to a router table and works o.k.Most of the baits I have made with this method have a rounded belly.All I do is run one side of the lure along the fence turn it round run it back through. I have had one lure catch the cutter and end up over the other side of the room.But I alway keep hand well clear and use a scrap piece of wood to pushh the lure through.

The system jerkbait mentions about cutting a slot along the bottom of the bait.This is a method I have been useing for a while now and it does enable you to get all of the weight very low on the bait which seems to increase the glide and reduce the roll on baits. I am just starting to try the idea with some of the smaller jerkbaits that I make. But cetainly for gliders it seems to work better than drilling vertical holes for weighting baits. I have the luxury of having a router and it does make the job quicker. I see Muskymarc you say you have made some manta's what wood did you use,as the originals are solid plastic,what sort of action did you get from them.I would be interested to see one of you manta's.

Hi,I would think the only thing you would be able to test with any accuracy would be the sink rate. I beleive you need more water to test a bait to see how it runs,I mean how do you test a glider that runs 2-3 ft left or right.I am lucky enough to be able to use a swimming pool at a local school which gives me a much better idea of how my baits run. There is a company in the u.k that have just started making bait and they say that all there's are tank tested,Well all of the people who I have spoken to say they don't do what they say they do,I would imagine they use a similar tank.

I would just like to wish everyone a Happy Christmas. And to say what a great forum this is. Have a great day all

Hi,Have a look in the tackle making tutorials section,there is some info there on building a drying wheel in there.Should start you off or give you some ideas.

Hi,I use different length screw eyes on my baits for the back eye I use 1 1/4" stainless steel for the belly eye I use 1" stainless eye.But for the front eye I use 1 1/4 nickle plated brass eye,the main reason behind this is that it is far easier to bend a brass eye to tune the bait than a stainless one but as Coley has said they are more prone to snapping when putting them in.For the front eye I drill my pilot hole 1.8 mm to a depth of 1 1/8" which means there is not lots of cutting for the screw eye to do which makes it less likley to twist off.Coat the threads with epoxy and wind the eye in .They will never come out!

Hi No prob's,I hope you have as much fun as I have over the years making my own baits. It is something that seems really popular over in the States,but here in the U.K there seems to be hardley anyone building there own bait it either that or there all keeping quite about.

I like to use automotive body filler.It goes rock hard in a few minutes and is very light.Because it is a two part paste and hardner I acn also adjust it for temperature even in the cold I can get it to dry and go rock hard in 5 minutes by adding a bit more hardner.

I use automotive body filler to fill the holes,the secret is to drill the holes only a 1/4 of an inch deeper than you require that way you haven't got loads of exrta hole to fill. The main reason I use automotive body filler is it is very light and goes rock hard in a short space. Regarding where to start from that is really a matter of experience,you get a good idea of where to put the lead.The first thing I would do if I was not sure where to put the lead is when you have your shape use flat lead with elastic bands attached and try them on the lure that way you can move them about without any problems when you find the position that you want the lead then mark and drill the holes and the lead should be in the right place.

Hi,when I said drill in the center of the lure what I should have said Is if the lure is an inch wide then make sure you drill your hole at half an inch so that it is central otherwise you lure will hang lop sided.Should have made what i said clearer.I use some electrical tape top hold the weight in whislt I test it.Hope that answers your question.

Hi,Regarding where to drill the holes,I drill from the bottom and exactley in the center of the lure and I am pretty certain that most other do the same the only exception to this would be if you were building a wire through bait.If you were to drill from the side it would be very difficult to get the lure to hang correctly. What I do is get the shape I want drill my holes and seal the lure then add my weight and test you can attach the lip on a temp.basis,if it wrong you can add or remove a bit without to much hassle.If you have finished it and painted it and find it's wrong it's a lot more of a problem to adjust the weight.

Hi Muskietom,Before I test the lures I seal them,What I do is drill my holes then seal the whole lure with thinned down varnish then fill the holes with lead and test.if useing beech it is very important to seal the lure as it sucks up water like a sponge. Thank for offering to send me the e-mail I would be interested to see what he has to say. Good luck

I use screw eyes for making all of my baits,I use 1 1/4" stainless steel eyes.I epoxy the screw eyes in and I have had friends land pike to nearly 30lb and never had a screw eye pull out.