weighinalimit

I've been doing this with Do-It molds for years...use high heat silicone gasket-making goop that Permatex sells in tubes for automotive gasket use. Works like a charm & if you want to remove it later it comes out pretty easily with a little work.

http://www.fishhound.com/blog/hot-new-technique-kickout-crankin Supposed to make "any crankbait hunt" with a weight in a corkscrew spring that attaches to the rear treble. Anyone seen this yet or have an opinion? Thinking about molding a small ball head jighead on a piece of SS wire & twisting up a corkscrew just to see if it really does work. Gimme some thoughts here guys!

I've never tried nuking a full gallon at once, but I got a commercial micro from an electrician buddy when he did a remodel at a local QT convenience store. Don't know what's so different about it, but it cooks plastic almost 2X as fast as the 1250 watt wally world micro I was using at first. Both are 110V & about the same physical size, I dunno what the deal is.

Without seeing the bait to know, I can only take a wild guess.......as impossible as it sounds, you probably have too much tail. Seriously, it sounds like the swimming tail section is too much for the bait to stabilize.

Mark, holler at me if ya need larger ones. I have #1 & #2 Excaliber teardrop splitrings.

Dealing with WalMart is a terrible idea, just ask Wave Worms how quickly they'll ruin you.....

You are dead on the money! I have a CSI single dip bed & it has a vibe motor in it, my DIY fluid bed gave me fits til I realized the ONLY difference was vibration. Set me DIY on my scroll saw, turned them both on......PERFECTION!!!!!! No more volcanoes with any color!

I've used the ZO hooks in a stock Do-It Poisontail jig mold, work quite well as a matter of fact!

Harbor Freight sells that contraption (lol) it as a soldering 3rd hand jig.

One thing that's helped me alot...commercial fluid beds have a vibrator motor in them, I put my homemade fluid bed on my scroll saw & turn it on then adjust the airflow for each paint. I think the vibration shakes the paint & helps prevent volcano formation. I'm not toadfrog lol but that's one of my "nutty ideas" and it works!

Highly NOT recommended for this reason....hooks are heat tempered and the soldering/brazing/welding operation will remove the temper from the hook eye, making it soft enough to bend fairly easily. You'll wind up losing a big fish & getting your heart broke when the eye straightens out & your jig leaves the wire arm. Sorry to bust your idea, but I'd hate to see ya do all that work just to see it fail to hold your fish.

You don't get many out of each one, but I made some out of those clear suction cups that went to some christmas ornaments (made to hang in a window), just DON'T tell my wife that's where they went to!!!

I have 6 new in box Shimano Citica 200E reels, $95.00 each including shipping. Switching to ABU Revo reels so I don't need these. leave msg here or email me weighinalimit@sbcglobal.net

Was looking at some different swimbaits & just wondered what differences (action, max & min. swim speeds, etc) are there between the single paddle tail ie baby E and the ones with (for lack of correct term lol) a double paddle tail, the one that looks like some of the Tool models, having sort of an upper & lower paddle? Is one better than the other or is the "double paddle" prohibitably more difficult to produce? I've noticed them mainly on higher$$ baits, anyone have info or opinion?

I have some left over in 2 sizes, the small ones are clear and I have large ones in black. Post back or email me if these would work. weighinalimit@sbcglobal.net