BassNator 1

Yo Brett they are all good ideas listed. Unfortunately some things that are tuff as nails can make shaping, molding and sanding difficult! EVEN with my Dremmel tool! I use Devcon to epoxy in my weights. I dont completely fill the hole with the epoxy! Once the epoxy is set and dried I will fill in the remainder of the hole with a latex wood filler. This is VERY easy to apply, sand and shape. I get the latex wood filler from home depot and a small 6 oz container is under $5.00! Once I shape and sand, I seal it with Devcon! See what I wrote to Terrydabassman in Flatsided Cranks II. Hope that helps! Cody

No Message bad photos!

Terry, by the sound of your name I would assume that you will be making Bass Lures. I make lures for Bass Fishing so I prefer 1/2 inch thickness of wood. When I first started I used 3/4 inch, I feel its too thick for a bass lure. I have used Poplar and Balsa woods as a wood source. Lately I have been using primarily 1/2 Balsa wood and my lures are flat sided just about 2 1/2'inches in length. Last year I started making it "easier" for me. so I bought dipsy swivels for the belly weight. The great thing about the dipsy swivel is that it has a built in screw eye in it. One issue with balsa is they need a little weight in them. I first tried the 1/4 ounce weight and they would float up to the moon at warp sppeds. So Im adding more weight to them. I am going to try the 1/4 ounce weight this year and we will see how they do. I measure the center with a ruler that has 16th of an inch increments. 4 16th inch markings makes it middle! I take a screw eye and mark the center. A small drill bit, then two more larger ones usually make it the right size for the belly weight. One other issue is that you must make sure you drill straight & square cause this could cause the weight to sit off balance. Also the balsa has split on my a few times. So be careful with that as well. I use Devcon to glue the belly weight in its place. Make sure you get some devcon INSIDE the swivel so it will glue itself in place. Let it dry overnight, cover the remainder of the belly weight whole with a latex Wood Filler bought at Home Depot. Sand and shape and sand down with a fine grit paper. Cover entire lure with devcon for a sealer, prime and paint! Cody

But I also have to mention, when I first started out, I must have made 100 dissappointments until I came up with one that is worthy! But I certainoly enjoyed the process AND learnt! Cody

It all depends on WHAT type of lures you are making. I unfortunately have not used a knife at all. In that case for the lures Im making, I have to agree with Riverman on this one. Especially since your just starting out. I bought a Table Top Scroll saw to cut the shape out for under $100.00. A coping saw will do just fine for starting out though. Just take your time. Then as he stated, a File, I use a Rasp that is Coarse on one side and Medium on the other. It has a Flat side and a Rounded shape for both the Coarse and Medium and I believe it was under $5.00. If you are going to use the harder woods, I would suggest that over a knife. The rasp really does you good. Then sand it down from coarse to fine, and you are good to go! For starting out, I used Balsa wood. For like $3.00 at the craft store I can buy enough balsa to make at least 20 baits. I also have used Poplar and Pine. A little tuffer wood material, but it is very manageable! Cody

For those that use a hole punch, Here is an easy way to make your eyes! I have two different size hole punches. The larger size I cut hole into Aluminum Foil, or White or Red Electric tape. That is the base of the eye. Then the smaller hole punch I cut out holes from black electric tape. I tape the small circle from the hole punch onto the aluminum foil.. VIOLA! A nice perfect circle inside a circle eye! If you want to add the hot glue gun to that for the 3D effect... go for it. It is so simple and easy to do and it is VERY cost effective! If you use the tape, it will stick to the lure where you put it, and mine usually hold up during my Clear Finishes! Cody

I have used Super Glue, but I have been using Contact Cement with great success. Yes I apply it right over my base coat. The contact cement is like the Rubber Cement, only stronger and it wont glue your fingers together. The Contact Cement has worked great for both foil and paper for me. I dont know if you have that in Scotland though. Cody

Your best bet is to try a Party Goods store in your area. Basically you are after a 1oz or 2oz plastic souffle cup! 2oz is the size that would be more suitable. Cody

Wondering if anybody out there is making a bait similar to Mann's Thinn Mann. If so what kind of Cliff Note Cheat Sheets does anybody have if they have made something similar. Like the internal weight etc. I think I might have to give this design a look see and see if I can create my own. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! But Im gonna give some 1/2 inch Balsa a try. That sure is a lot thinner than I have used in the past. The only true issue I have with balsa is that my brand new drill bits dont get a clean cut in the wood... it like shreds it instead of cutting it. And any info or help on hole drilling into balsa would be appreciated! Thanks Cody

Tom S. makes a real good point on how to do it. I have done it the way Tom S. Reccommends and here are some of the trials and tribulations I have experienced. On my lures with foil, I have used Aluminum foil or candy wrapper foil that I have bought at the craft store that sells candy supplies. I also use a wire mesh as he described. Instead of using my fingers, I purchased a small printers roller from the craft store in the printers section. It should be around the linoleum block area and should be under 5 bux.. ( I think! ). The biggest problem with doing it as Tom says.. is keeping the imprint intact as you glue it onto the lure. It can real quick and real easy lose its imprint, its a thin sheet of foil. Thicker foils would work better Im sure, you would just need to apply harder pressure to get the imprint. You must be very careful when glueing it on. I use a Loc-Tite brand Contact Cement, but any pressure on the foil will affect the foils imprint. PLUS.. you also want to make sure your foil gets a good bond with no air pockets underneath. So its a difficult proposition... you need to make sure it adheres.. but you cant apply too much pressure! I also used the tools; after I glued the foil down, I then ran a socket wrench over the foil to get the imprint. It worked pretty good, BUT.. if you can get a real good imprint the first way with out affecting the imprint, the first way is the way to go. Hope that helps out! Cody

Hey guys, I agree that the best way to mix the Devcon 2ton is in a cup. I also use a 2oz plastic souffle cup. As far as proper mixing..... you should use the paddle that comes with the syringe containers behind the plunger. Or at other times I use a popsicle stick. You dont stir the 2 parts together... you should FOLD it! Lift the bottom, to the top, and continue to fold it and mix it that way. After you fold it a few times, I then lift the popsicle stick up and down in the mixture to gradually work the air bubbles out. Then I apply it with a throw away paint brush. I buy 40 of them in a package from my local Dollar store. They state on the package that the working time is 30 minutes.... I disagree. I have only enough time to do 2 lures. So I only make enough for 2 lures. Its a great way to do it! If you try to do more, it's too hard to get a good even thick coat. The paint bristles start texturing the Devcon and it then becomes eneven and textured. So with that being said, I will only do 2 at a time. No exceptions. I think that the tackiness is a combination of both improper mixing AND temps! There is a reccommended temperature range, but I am going to guess that the biggest culprit is leaving residual mixture that is not proerly mixed along the outsides and putting that on the lure. Since I have folded the mixtures instead of stirring, I have not had any Devcon failures. I fold the mixture for a few minutes... at least 4 to 5 minutes, and make sure you get the outsides mixed in! I guess thats why my working time is a lot less.... I mix it more! Cody

Awesome Tutorial Terry! Good Job! Cant wait for part 2! Cody

Terry, I was holding out on that one.... I do know what your talkin bout!! Im awaiting to see that done as well. My Badger 150 does just Fine and I only use the Fine Head and Needle, but it sure doesnt spray a line THAT fine!! Truthfully I am ok with that though! Cody

Nope Cmon GUys... Green, Black, Grey and Yello with a An Eagles Emblem on it! After all MY beloved Eagles made The Super Bowl!! Cody

I agree with Cheesehead as I too took a page out of Carolina Chips book. The least expensive way to do this is buy some Ex-Acto Knives. The Ex-Acto Knives were like $1.25 a piece at the craft stoore. I started with 5 of them. Unloosen the nut holding the blade guide in place. Take out the blade to the knife. Insert that blade guide into the Screw Eye that goes into the lure. Then retighten. Of course at first its gonna be a real tight fit, but play with it slowl I took a straight edge screw driver at first to open up the grooves at first.. You'll get it on. If its dead center, its a good tight fit! But be careful cause on occasion, I have had the lure slip off the knife! OOOOOOHHHH Was I mad! It really ticks you off after a Clear Coat! When it slipped off, its cause I man handled the lure and moved the screw eye off its center inside the knife holder. Anyway I also took a couple of 2 X 4 scraps about 6 inches long. I drilled a couple holes into the 2 X 4 so the handle can fit snug into the holes.... thats the cheapest and most inexpensive route for a lure holder for spraying... all it really cost me was the amount for the Ex-Acto Knives. I put a small cardbox behind it.... and spray my airbrush into that, with the 2 X 4 Lure holder in front of it. Thats my inexpensive Spray Booth and lure holder combo! Cody

For a First try.... thats AWESOME! Kup the good work! Cody

Simply AWESOME!! Cody[/u]

Hey MD Doug, welcome to the board! You will see lots of help up in the TU Search button. Go up and type in Airbrush.... Lots of stuff will come up! This question has been covered and I will give you a quick response. But search and read the tons of questions already covered. Paint reccommendations you will get various responses on that. I use Createx and the inexpensive paints from Wal-Mart. at .44 cents a bottle.. ( they just went up .11!) you cant beat the price and the color selections. The craft paint is thick and needs to be thinned down a little. I have no problems running Createx straight through the gun. But it is very easy clean up! I have repainted baits and I sand down from a coarse to a fine. I try not to sand down to the wood though.. at least to the primer or to get the finish off. Then smooth it out with a real fine grade paper. I personally use 2 coats of a flat white primer, lightly sand in between each coating, then paint over that. Then apply my finish.

I bought 2 years ago on E-Bay a Poes 400 and it stated that the lure was weighted the Fritts way. Now Im not sure of the amount of weight they placed in the lure or if it truly is the Fritts way, but I can tell you, all they did is drill a hole into the SIDE of the lure between the belly hook and the diving lip. A little epoxy and paint and a clear coat is all they did. Unfortunately this lure has yet to pay off for me so it made its way to the BACK of my tackle box! As far as I was concerned and from what I heard this helps to make the lure get down faster and stay down. I also hear that it also helped it suspend a bit with the lure facing in the downward position. I dont agree with that. I never really fished this lure as a suspending lure, personally the added weight is NOT to make it suspend. Thats just IMHO! I would summise to get a Poes to Suspend, More Belly weight would be the approved method, not in the placement between the belly hook and bill. I havent tested this and unfortunately, I dont think Im going to try it. ( SORRY! ) But I would be interested in anybody's findings on this. I currently own about 40 of the Poes 400 Crankers and most all of mine are balanced. I throw them out, they sit well in the water and they start their desent on the first turn of my reel For me to play with a Poe's 400 to suspend, I can see it being very costly. I bought a few on E-Bay and up in my area they are still selling them in the $7.00 to $8.00 range. I can see me throwing that money away. You want the weight to give it a slow rise back up so you can crash it into things and have it rise around the stumps and cover. So if I can take a stab at some answers here, the answer would probably be Yes the rubber band strap is between the belly and the bill as it was on mine. As far as a Balanced look, placing a weight there will not neccesarily balance your lure, you are adding more weight to fight a couple of things. The weight will add to the front of the lure a more downward start off to get the lure down quicker. A downward lure will be able to bump and crash into things without fouling up. The weight is also fighting the natural buoyancy of the wood to give it a slower rise up. One of the great successes of a Rattle Trap is the fact that the direction the lure is positioned.. downwards. The downwards position gives this lure an added advantage in getting through cover without fouling up. Again the weight of the Poes to put this in the Downward position. Get through cover and structure without fouling up. As far as testing temps, my suggestion is to figure out the temperature you will be fishing at where you will be targeting suspending fish and go with that. For instance, if last year you had to try and target suspending fish at 70 degrees, thats my starting point. All that is is good notes and fishing logs while on the water. Build your lures around the needs that you figured out. Another idea for those out there that need to get a crank bait down deep, cut the hook off of a 3/4 once spinner bait. Im sure you have a few with rusty hooks! Take a set of needle nose pliers and turn the wire over where the hook was. Place an O ring to the Spinner where you just turned it over with the pliers. Tie the spinner to your line like you normally do. Attach a 2 foot leader at the O-Ring and attach a crankbait to the end of that. You will be able to countdown and get a crankbait to any depth you want. I have used that method with a lot of success. Hey Dink, As far as this website goes, I know a lot of guys tune in to this site, and tune into the postings. Some and most of us have the answers to questions, sometimes we dont. Sometime questions are difficult to answer, like yours are. If I can offer my two cents.. I will! But I am in no way a "know it all!" I am still a learner and a beginner and I will always pass on what I know and have learnt! I also think that the make up of this site is one and the same. But I stuck my neck out there with this post, a lot of guys wont do that, ( we have to have some lurkers here that never post ) but, a lot of guys here are in the building of their own creations and not modifying other brands. Again my opinion and you guys can chop my neck off now!! But your answers are gonna require some detailed work, that personally I havent done! Cody

Hey Guys, Again I want to thank all of you for your hard work and dedication to this site and how it has helped a lot of us out, including me. I am still learning the process and having a blast making lures! Now I get to repay back with a tip I just started using with success! I am also going to show a photo I took of a process for those that are having a tuff time painting the scales on. I went to the local craft store and purchased some Sculpting Mesh. The sculpting mesh was under five bux, for a 11 X 14 sheet. The great thing about the mesh is picture it being a Window Screen that is very pliable! I was able to wrap this sculpting wire around the lure and be able to paint through it with no problems and VIOLA! Nice Scales and the mesh can be reused on another lure with the same shape! The only thing to be careful about is that the mesh can chip a little of the underpaint, so be careful taking the mesh off. Also in the picture is a Stencil that I made for the red gills. If you notice I have a black marker around the stencil so I can line it up on the lure where I want it to go! Hope that helps a few of you newbies like myself out. Also I have 2 more new lures I just put my first coat of cleat on! Cody

Nice Job Jerkbait! Good Paint on them, they look real good! Cody

Awesome Job! THey look great!~ Cody

Bass Catcher, Comgrats on Auburn &/or UGA! Hang tuff on the stress, it will all work out! But very cool stuff on the water decals! Good Job! Cody

P.S. Dont run a clear through your gun. Paint it on with disposable brushes! Cody

Grunthead, go with the Badger 150 if you choose the Badgers and you wont be sorry! If you dont like it... then sell it to me. I love all 5 of mine. The best feature I like about the 150 is having the interchangeable heads. I really dont use anything other than the Fine, but Im telling you it works just fine. lol Cody