Jann

I don?t use any special connectors. The baits I run weights aroud 100 grams. If the baits moves when turned you?d have to twi?st the spring a bit and it will stay in place. Rgds, Jann

Sorry, but no. Here in Sweden we had a bait called "Slalomwobblern", a crankbait with a tail formed like a screw and with a normal lip. It goes ina a S-looking pattern. Jann

Haven?t bought one yet so I?d be interested in what you have found... Any links? Rgds, Jann

Just found out that kustomrides don?t export outside US or Canada (yet?). They have Paypal wich really works fine over the net but.... Ordered but got the money refunded. I?d like to get that chrome finish on a load of baits and with a layer of protective laquer. Jann

Worked! Thanks, Jann

Can?t find it... This function is essential for the forum to work smoothly. Jann

Wow, not even in Sweden where you have to buy liqour in a special shop (only for adults aged 20+) we don?t have that phenomena. How about cigarette lighters containing butane wich is frequently is inhaled by youths where some is ending up either as vegetables (braindead) or stonedead. Sniffing that stuff is far more dangerous. Since Sweden is kind of americanized we?ll soon have those warnings soon too.

Same thing here. I?ve received the DVD and it works perfectly. Check your DVD if it is compatible with NTSC - it should be. If the DVD can read it then you should be able to watch it if your DVD is connected via a SCART-cable to the TV (can?t think of any NOT using SCART). About the regionproblem that could be answered by out2llunge (J.P.). My player is "regionfree" so I don??t know. Tight lines! / Jann

Count me in as a pestering hobbyist too. Tight lines! / Jann

Found this at a Swedish company?s site. Might be interesting to try out? Don?t hesitate it is NOT like fermented baltic herring. http://www.trappy.com/index.html?pages/recipe The recipe is in Swedish, but scroll down a bit and you?ll find it in english. Regards, Jann

One way to get a really tough sealing is to use heat. We mainly use beechwood and preheat it before sealing with epoxy. Put it in a drying cabinet or an owen and heat the woodpiece at around 50 degrees celsius. Then you apply the epoxy as it is. It will be really thin because of the already heated wood, Then you could, not necessary, "bake" it in the owen for 45-60 minutes. We use Casco Araldite Professional and "bake" also the top coating this way. It will give a really tough bait ready for any northern pike (or maybe muskie?)! At least two layers of topcoating. Tight lines! / Jann

Where they sell elctronic components.... Jann

Just realized you where asking for rubberworm hooks. But... they have those too... Jann

If you like EagleClaw, check out Owner Hooks! Can?t beat that feeling... Ouch! ST-41BC 2X (these are size 2/0) Tight lines! / Jann

Sounds almost like the method I found at lurebuilding. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/engtipsplastic.html I haven?t tried it yet, but it seems to work fine too... and >=F=A=S=T=> Tight lines! / Jann

Thanks for the idea! I have one now... homemade! As a friend use to say - the price is right. Jann

Sealing and coating seemes to be the newer ending story. So I?d like to contribute too. I get great results using two-component epoxy (Araldite Professional) on hardwood like beech and other kinds of wood. No news to anyone - well, try preheating the lure before sealing with epoxy (50 degrees celsius). Then you apply epoxy and put it into the owen at around 50 degrees celsius. The wood absorbes the epoxy and sometimes you find that a second coating is necessary before painting. Preheating is needed to avoid airbubbles coming from the wood when speeding up the hardening in the owen. When the wood absorbes the epoxy it creates a very hard surface, I suppose this might work with balsawood. Anyone tried this? When using this process with Araldite you create a much harder coating/sealing than if you let the Araldite harden in roomtemperature. Jann

I?ve seen them at www.fishit.com - but just this color on sale: Regards, Jann

Thanks for sharing Gene! Jann

Wow! Those looks absolutely perfect. Can?t believe what I am seeing. I guess you?d like to share the techniques you?re using? Jann

I?ve used my Garmin 100 with good results. This handheld I was refering to just shows the depth (and fish - but with a symbol it isn?t worth much anyway). My Garmin showed the icethickness too on the display, shooting through 60 cm of ice without any problem as long as the surface of the ice was smooth. I used to have it transportable, but I have bought a bigger boat and it is permanently aboard. This is how I used the Garmin before. And the image produced looked like this. Note that the first sequence shows the transducer ON the ice, then I moved it to the hole just to show the difference (described at my homepage). The handheld should be easier to use when icefishing. Is it reliable, does it shoot through the ice well. If not, is there any tricks for it etc etc...

It seems that the sympatical response is similar to the human? Pupildilatation - "bigger eyes" is a response for "fight or flight", you need to see more, blood is redirected from the intestines to the muscles, the hearts frequency rises, the breathing (gasexchange ) gets deeper and more frequent... just like when being strapped to a liedetector with something to hide! Jann

Is there anyone using handheld sounders like Hawk Eye DF2120PX (in particular)? What are your experiences using them while icefishing? DO they work properly, any problems etc? Jann

I don?t know the specific word for the tool I am using, but I think it is called welding plier. It is a small (there are really big ones too of course) plier wich locks it?s grip real hard when tightened. Hmm, it looks like this: I have four of them, really useful when applying paint, laquer etc... Regards, Jann