nova
-
Posts
2,960 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
13
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
TU Classifieds
Glossary
Website Links
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by nova
-
-
Like the old guy used to say;" you'll never get rich off of a rich man, only screwed".
-
Too much heat Mark. Add heat stabilzer to the batch. I assume you're using a micro. Reheat in short blasts say 30 secs.
Did you use the foil yet?
-
1
-
-
The obvious would be the school crest and the years from 25 years ago to now.
-
Mark,
There is this stuff called "sugar flakes". It's like clear glitter. It does not have the weight as salt, butit will add a little weight. I don't remember where I got it, it was a long time ago.
Senkosam
-
Mark;
What I do is increase the colors little by little until you get the match you want. It depends on what you have for a formula. I don't know Bear's coloring so I can't help you there.
I always add the salt to the plastic first.
Did you ever use that foil?
-
Fishing is a highly personal thing. No two fishermen fish the same. There are subtitle differances that happen. As for the salt in baits; you have to find what amount of salt works for you. Just play with the amounts and keep track(pen and paper) while you do it. That way you can repeat it each time.
I never believe what I see in ads; too many smoke and mirrors with a dash of BS. I decide to use a bait based on shape mostly with color second.
Too many consumers have been brought up(brainwashed) to believe what the see/hear in ads. Everything today seems to be the "latest and greatest".
-
sounds kinda scary to me...I have always understood ANY metal will react, I have seen sparks in the past. I would think there must be a better way.... hot plate or something if using metal to divide a cup...
Been doing it this way for years with no problems. If you put the pyrex on a hotplate it can blow up.
I thought the same way when I first tried it.
-
how do you prevent the microwave from reacting to metal when heating
The micro will not react to the metal as long as the very top edges are not shiny and there is no metal edges showing through the glass.
-
is there a tutorial on making a 2 or 3 divided cup
All you need is JB weld; black marker;tinsnips; tin flashing and a pyrex cup. Divide the cup with the marker down the middle from one side to the other(pouring spout to handle). Cut and fit the flashing to the cup. This takes a while as you fine tune the divider to fit the cup. Cover the line you made with a line of JB weld and slide the flashing in place. Then apply more JBweld to both sides of the divider where it contacts the cup making sure there are no gaps around the flashing. Let it set and there you go.
For a three chamber pot just take the flashing and fold it in half and continue as described.
-
Wow ........ is there a tutorial for making swirls using a divided cup? Would love to learn how to make the cup and the swirls
Basically there are 2 postions to use when you are pouring with the divided cups.(doesn't matter if it is 2 chambers or 3)If you pour from the lowest point(closest to the sprue hole) you will get a fairly nice laminate bait. If you pour from a little higher position you get the swirls. It takes a little practice. Temprature also comes into play.
-
I had an idea it was a shrinkage problem. If the dimple is in the same place each time it can also be an airpocket inside the mold. This causes the plastic to cool faster in that area.
-
Is the mold an open or 2 piece?
-
just made a divider for my cup put the jb weld on just wondering how long it will take before i can start pouring swirls
Just a quick question. If you look at the metal devider from the outside of the pyrex; can you see the edge of the metal?
I have found that if the edge of the metal is exposed you can get arking in the micro. If you can see the metal take a black marker and paint the glass on the outside; this will help.
If you look in the softplastic gallery you will see what you can do with a three chamber pyrex.
-
If you take some JB weld and build up the pouring spout on the pyrex. Let it set up for a couple of days. Then take a small round fine file and carve out the size of pouring spout that works best for you. You may have to wrap the file with very fine sandpaper to get a good smooth finish.
Remember; use what you got and simpler is almost always better.
-
Used a CCM carrot mold for the body . Used tinfoil for a laminate plate between halves . If I use the plate I only get one half shot at a time . It's already got some stripers . Unfortunately not by me . Got plenty of relatives just waiting for me to toss something out the shop door .
Nova ya never know about being related . My heritage is kinda iffy .
Don't tell me you were found in a cabbage patch;lol.
-
You and I must be related; I very rarely think inside the box as well. I like that bait. Should catch very nicely.
-
Ben;
You should go buy a lottery ticket;lol.
I'm just that way about saving things. (drives my wife crazy; she's an army brat and they couldn't save things because of postings).
My thought is that if I don't use it one of my buddies might need it sometime.
-
If you check out the softbait gallery you'll understand what I mean.
-
Make sure that the products are shipped by USPS not UPS or it will cost you an arm and both legs.
-
1
-
-
I also prefer hand pouring. Way more freedom to apply your imagination and the artform.
I do not own an injection mold system and I never will.
Not knocking those who do the injection thing; it's just my preferance.
Can't beat old school; lol.
-
1
-
-
Just be sure to cut all the pieces up to about the same size. That way they melt up quicker without having to get them too hot.
-
1
-
-
I still new to this whole bait making thing. Started saying I was only going to spend like $200 bucks on this hobby... Now after going over $500 lol and still wanting more. I have made like 30 batchs with diff. colors and flake. If I was smart I would just go to the bait store and ask "hey what's your biggest seller" and copy it. But I want to do my own stuff as far as color and flake goes. Messed up a lot of what I have tried to do.Too much flake, too little, color too dark or too light. Well anyway. I did notice that I use a lot of Silver .015 flake more then 2 times that of the other flake I have. So i guess what I'm asking do you guys have a flake and size that you use a lot more of? Also do you have a colorant that IYO is good enough by itself without any bling to catch fish?
Give it time and you'll be well over $2000. lol
-
If you are talking about the white glue; that's how it's done. If you are talking abot the epoxy, it's done with a cheap artist brush.(also available at the dollar store)
-
Like I said; I use whatever the dollar store sells. It comes in a double barrel syringe. The first mixture I use is quite diluted with alcohol and I use this as a penetrating sealer. The next coat is a little thicker but not so thick as to hide any fine details.
I don't use any measurements to do this; I just eyeball it. I've done it so much over the years it's just second nature.
You have to let the epoxy set up between coats; although the second coat can be applied quite soon after the penetrating coat.
I found that you will get a better finish if you apply thinner coats rather than a couple thicker coats.
I also coat the top of the POP surface with any epoxy leftovers so that thse areas get protection from nicks and dings.
Hand Pour Molds
in Soft Plastics
Posted · Edited by nova
There are things you can do with handpouring that injectors can only dream about.
If you want a "cookie cutter" type of bait then injection is the way to go. If you want an "artform" type of bait then handpouring is the way to go.
It just depends on what you want; but believe me hand pouring will never be "shoved out". Another point is that handpouring doesn't mean flat side. I design all my baits and most are 360. I only own one type of aluminum mold and that is a top pour stick mold.