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About SpoRoller

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  1. Blackjack's method is probably the best bet for removing the devcon. I either do that or use a dull knife to peel it off. Heating it is faster though. On manufactured baits I prefer to sand everything off and start with a clean lure. Final results is worth the effort to me!
  2. I knew a guy once in Maryland that used Preparation H on his bait. I actually saw it work on the fish. Good thing is if it doesn't work you can always use it after sitting all day waiting for them to bite!
  3. Absolutely love the paint job on those last 2! Is the effect on the top one a stencil or hand done. Awesome!
  4. Overall a good job for the first attempt. You are on the right track, just need time to get it down pat. What type of paints are you using?? If the gold is Createx Auto Air, the best way to spray it is to put the first coat on light. Build the second coat slowly until you get the desired effect. It also helps to play with your air settings and paint viscosity to prevent spitting. Since you asked, please don't take any comments as insults. We are here to help, not criticize.
  5. Wow! I finally got through this thread. With respect to everyone's opinions, we must remember that is what they are. Each person has their own opinion about what works, what doesn't, and what belongs in their tackle selection. My opinion is very close to Skeeters about the inherent design of crankbaits. They must cast straight without tumbling and that applies to the very shallow and the very deep. When I am deep cranking I want the maximum distance I can get on each cast to maximize my cranking depth. With shallow runners I want them to fly straight to the target and land ready for the retrieve. Tumbling with these baits can result in a wasted cast and that is not good when you are casting hundreds of times per day. Inaccuracy is also a large negative when fishing current, such as in shallow tidal conditions. Did I mention that my head hurts from too much learning at one time? :grin:
  6. On top of the small bottle is a vent hole, if that hole is clogged the paint will not come out. I learned this when I first started (the hard way). To fix, remove the nut that is inside the lid. Take off the top part that connects to your air gun and clean off the underside of it and the lid top. When placing back onto the lid make sure you line the two holes up or you may be back at step one. I still think you got a brush that someone messed up and returned to the store. I would take it back and request (demand) a new (unopened) one.
  7. Very possible you got a return that someone messed up. If it keeps acting up on you I would take it back for a replacement or a refund. On a new VL that trigger shouldn't stick in any position. Sounds like someone used it and didn't clean it correctly. If they won't play nice at the store, remember that the squeaky wheel gets the grease!
  8. Awesome post Skeeter! It really gets the gears turning in my head (I might need to oil them first, they are a little rusty).
  9. Thanks Mallard. I have notice while browsing the wood that some pieces are a lot better than others. I also am not smart enough to read the labels! That is why my wife forbids me to grocery shop! If it matches the description in my mind of what I want then I buy it.
  10. Careful what you wish for Blades! If that happened you wouldn't have time for fishing anymore!
  11. I'll call you tonight Scoop. I have heard and been told that those 1x's sold at Lowes are not kiln dried. I have been looking for local sources of different woods, you know any??
  12. Read it also, good publicity. It is always good when one of our own gets recognized.
  13. Never heard of the Scorpion but I use the Paasche VL and like it. As with any gun, it takes time to learn how to work it.
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