TBait

This is from LaPala.....

It is a decent brush. I started with this set. I preferred to spray with the #1, however the #3 was more forgiving due to the consistency of acrylic paints. You will spray with a higher psi with a siphon feed. I can spray acrylics with my Iwata CS gravity feed, all the way down to 15psi. When spraying on a hard finish this helps to prevent those pressure runs, spiderwebs. Something I just realized. Kind of stupid. But I just put this together. Most baits are primed first. I only build foiled baits. When painting you are painting directly onto the clearcoat which doesnt aid in adhesion of paint, versus a primered finish. Perhaps this is why I got disgusted with my VL. Learn with it...if you dont like it. Then move up....

I know alot of guys including myself have and continue to use createx paints. They are difficult to spray. I would recommend going with a paint that is already prethinned and spending a little extra on your paint. A good color selection is www.smithpaints.com. These are thinned and finer pigments, taxidermy paints. Auto air is better as well. JMO......after a while the hassles arent worth the cost savings.. Of course a good airbrush make a difference as well.

I would think twice. I will say that I have had several other brushes as well. A gravity feed brush takes less air meaning less noise from a compressor running and uses less paint and I think you can spray at lower pressures versus a siphon feed. The difference was night and day when I switched. I now use the Iwata Eclipse CS for everything. The nozzle size on this brush is suitable for Auto Air as well as Wasco and Smith paints straight from the bottle. Paints themselves are alot of the trouble. It is important to spray a good quality airbrush paint. I still use some of the original createx, but this is a thicker paint. Wasco and Smith paints are already thinned where they spray right out of the bottle and the pigments are ground finer. These paints eliminate the clogged nozzle. Good luck on your choice. JMO

I am aware that the directions say Co2 is what take the gas bubbles out of Etex. But I think there is more to it. Thickness of the topcoat. Let me start by saying the initial heating of etex up to about 20 or 30 minutes will turn this stuff into practically water. I wont argue that you can breathe on etex and get rid of the bubbles. However I have found a better way. As you begin to heat the surface of the bait and the etex begins to run like crazy. the thinning of the epoxy and running actually allows the bubbles to get to the surface easier. Yes you have to continually rotate the bait because the etex is wanting to drip off however it gives you a much cleaner finish and virtually bubble free. Once heated and happy with the degassing...put on the drying wheel. The thinner etex allows the bubbles to escape faster and easier. A bubble would reach the surface faster in water than lets say syrup. A much thinner viscosity is created by heating. I have not tried heating devcon, but tend to think that this would expedite the set of the epoxy thickening the viscosity versus thinning. I dont use devcon other than for glueing bills in place. Perhaps some of the regular users of devcon could jump in here. I think if I had the time and spare change I would get with Richoc again and get his prescription. I think he is on to something with superheating etex. An initial thinner viscosity allowing the bubbles to rise and escape and a super fast cure time... I believe he said 20 minutes or less. He also thins the etex with something prior to heating that allows him to shoot through an airbrush if needed. Again thinning should aid in relief of the bubbles. Bubbles can escape easier with a lower viscosity topcoat. If the bubbles dont reach the surface or near the surface... all of the Co2 in the world wont help you.

For degassing.....not sure about doing this for Devcon. I am thinking..this will decrease the amount of time you have to work with the glue. Another comment is that a hairdryer will push out whatever it takes in to its intake...meaning dust etc. I prefer a torch myself... jmo

I would box up and take it back....and buy one that is in the 5-6 rpm range...wouldnt use it... Mike

Have you verified this by turning it on and counting for 1 minute? Seems awful slow and I would say that this will not be fast enough if this is the case... you will probably get sagging of the clear coat.

I think that is what make handmade cranks so sought after. No 2 are alike and more of them percentage wise have special actions or characteristics that catch more fish. Comparing them to store bought mass produced cranks. I agree....

What type of wood are you using....?

.According to what he is saying.....his paint is coming off after fishing with the baits...... This would mean that his topcoat is not holding up.....

Can you be more specific as to how your topcoat is being breeched..... what is allowing water to come into contact with your paint???? How is the topcoat at fault? What are you fishing for?

I have heard that you shouldnt place the line tie any further than halfway from the nose of the bait to the end of the bill... further out wobble closer in wiggle...

Do not mix with wood stirs... mix with a twisted pieces of clean wire shaped like a wisp. Use the 3 container method. 1st container.....resin 2nd container......hardener equal amounts Pour one into the other and begin your mixing. after about 2 minutes pour entire contents into clean 3rd mty container. Remix and this will ensure that you got a good mix without any soft spots. I have found that Etex can continue to cure for quite a few days. The first 24 hours and the finish will seem a little soft or rubbery...give it time and it will cure. If you need your lure that quickly...you should have thought about that a week ago....LOL

Already given me some great advice... Thanks again! Mike

I had 3 years of German.....along time ago....and its not coming back very well... looks neat though.

Adam, I appreciate your reply. I am sure in the future there will be plenty of questions headed your way. Thanks Mike

If you have question regarding Iwata or other airbrushes perhaps this guy can help. adamr@medea-artool.com From airbrush.com/forums

You could never convince me to use Devcon. Never............never..........aint happening. you must not have heard that story I told about that Yellowish white looking FORD truck that I saw the other day........It had a DEVCON sign on its side. :-D Darndest thing I ever saw!

I will give it a try....thanks. Mike

I used to have no problem with hook hangers and for that matter still get by. However I used to use Stainless wire for my thru wire design. Since then I have completely switched to Copper. As we all no copper can be cut very easily with a pocket knife. The advantage is "hunting". I guess I will continue to very carefully clean the eyes of the hook hangers out. I have been using a very small dremel bit to punch thru....it works fine...just looking for a better way.

What happens when the epoxy ETEX or DCON drys around the tape? How do you get it off? I can see this for paint...just not having an easy time with the epoxy? Seems it would be permanently secured around the hanger.

How do you prevent the Vaseline from breaking down into the finish...possibly contaminating the ETEX and weakening the finish on a good area of the lure? Why dont you want a little ETEX to over lap the bill or lip? I have never experienced a problem with an 1/8 of an inch overlap and always thought it would help to waterproof the bait. Denatured alcohol cleans lips and works great as a paint cleanup. I am very interested in finding something that will keep the hook hangers clear and free of etex while drying on a drying wheel. Just cant risk contamination of the other surface areas of the bait...

How long did you wait to apply the ETEX and did you let it drip off of the lure before putting it on the drying wheel. I have found that if you let too much drip off ( trying to remove the excess finish ) Once the bait starts to dry, it will dimple. Etex has a long working time. So I doubt that you applied it while it was starting to set. Try leaving a little more...not a lot but a little more finish on the bait next time before putting it on the drying wheel.

http://www.316lurecompany.com/hardbaits.html