TBait

http://www.imakatsu.co.jp/movie/javallon0506-2.wmv

It is available or a different product. I ordered some from Lure Hardware and that is the stuff I am looking for. If it is the same (g10fr4), it must vary in appearance by manufacturer greatly. People are Tight lipped and understandable..I am tight lipped on a couple of things myself.

Never seen this thickness offered. .031 is the closest I have seen. 1/32nd..Is your .040 yellow/ yellow green/more clear than yellow?

Got some from McMaster Carr? It is very yellow...not like that of Lure Hardware's fibre board bills. Any idea where to get the clearer stuff?

Thanks!

What kind of prices are being paid for this stuff? Just trying to find the best price. Looking for a 2'x4' section or larger. Help?

Ranger has dropped him for his actions..

making your own spinnerbait mold....pretty neat http://www.wmi.org/sql_messages_html/onfly_file/doc.asp?num=28316&ini=d:%5Casp_ini%5Cfishing_tactics_3way.ini&no_nav=

I dont know what you could do that would give you the strength you are needing. Lexan is made to flex....any flexing that would occur would probably break the adhesive. Lexan can be formed into shapes with a consistent temp of around 300 degrees. See Lapala...he may have more ideas and more experience with this.... Mike

Is there a reason for laminating other than acheiving a thicker piece? Just buy it thicker to start with? Not sure what you are trying to do?

Durhams Water Putty...may be the better answer...I believe there used to be a tutorial on mold making. Water putty after it is baked..is almost like a piece of marble. nothing like plaster of paris. Very easy to work with.

Iwata Eclipse CS.......lower pressures, less compressor noise, gravity feed...flawless. The perfect brush at a decent price!

.031

http://k-mac-plastics.net/epoxyglas-g10-fr4-sheets.htm

Lurehead, can you give me an idea of how much force you are applying by hand in say lbs of pressure on the press handle. If you were lifting a dead weight how much would it equal? Are you putting a pipe over the handle to extend your leverage? Just trying to get an idea? Anyone else had any price quotes from tool/die machine shops? I was quoted $650 for the dies installed on my press. Does this sound too high?

Just called GE LEXAN tech line. The guy figured it up and said that punching a piece of .060 Lexan that was 3/4"w x 1 3/4" L would take a force of 1.46 tons. That is a 3000 lb press conservative. How are you guys punching bills with these smaller arbor presses? What kind of actual pressure at the arm is required? Are these techies....that far off????? Help! What about these 2 presses? They are quite a bit more expensive than a arbor press, looks to be a heck of alot easier. Mini Bench Top Hydraulic Presses $250-$300 price range. 12 ton capacity http://www.asedeals.com/Ranger_press.html http://www.asedeals.com/aff_press.html

I was within 3 days of putting my deposit down on a die set. I had to come up with the press first. Wasnt sure how much tonnage to buy. Called Sheffield Plastics tech line and the guy tells me that for a 1"x2" piece of Polycarb, it would take a force of 10 tons to press a punch through it. I was getting ready to drop big bucks for the setup until I heard this. The difference in price between a 1 ton press and a 10 ton press is huge. I was going to buy a 1 or 2 ton Arbor Press and have them mount the die set to it. Help, I need clarification and need to know how much arm force is being applied to these 1 ton or 1/2 ton presses that are being used for punching .060 polycarb bills. Help! Mike

The round collar/bearing that tightens to the square shaft. Squeaked on mine. Put a drop or 2 of oil on the round collar that supports the shaft at the opposite end from the motor. It sits in the metal saddle. Its not really a bearing but acts like one. They are chrome plated generally and i think that has something to do with the squeak noise.

You want to buy another VL Set ? Since we are both in Cincy there wouldnt be any shipping, I could meet you some where. Havent used my VL in 2 years. All 3 needles etc. Would like to see your baits. Have you posted any pics on the site as of yet? Mike

you need some lube on the threads/ beeswax soft will stop this problem. Iwata medea-lube. Air is escaping through the threads. You need a tight seal...similar to Teflon tape.

If you are using a solid balsa blank ( non thru wire construction ) it will work. If you are glueing 2 halves together, the shot is very difficult to deal with while trying to manipulate the halves throughout the glueing process. I would stick with a 1piece solid weight while doing thru wire construction. jmo Mike

Straight from their website.... Auto Air Colors can be cured in a spray booth with air movement, by infrared heat lamps, or a heat gun Curing in Spray Booth- A spray booth is the preferred environment for painting vehicles with the Auto Air Colors. Bake paint at 120-150?F for 15-20 minutes or until colors are completely dried. For quicker drying times, increase airflow rate and booth temperature. Curing in Open Conditions- Recommended minimum temperature 70?F and low humidity. Curing Auto Air Colors in humid or cold damp conditions may require extended exposure to heat. Use airflow to speed up drying time. Cure when colors are wet or dry. Auto Air Colors are cured with heat. Use heat gun or infra-red lamp to cure colors. If not curing with heat, allow colors ample time to dry prior to taping or clear coat application. Drying time will vary depending upon environment. In Infra-red lamp (IR) ? allow lamp to cure colors at a safe distance generally over 12 inches to prevent blistering paint. Duration may vary from 5 ? 30 mins. coat buil-up, wetness and conditions. Cure colors dry to the touch without tack. A heat gun is effective when curing smaller areas such as body panels, tanks, fenders, helmets, etc. Generally colors cure 1-2 minutes per square foot. Keep heat gun moving and at a safe distance of 6? or more to avoid blistering. Cure colors dry to touch without tack.

Jed, I havent experienced the problem with AA however have with other taxidermy paints. Have you heat set the paint with a blow dryer or flashed with a torch. What color AA were you using? I use the white, black, and interference colors. You might find something on airbrush.com/forums in this regard as they use this product quite often and have many write ups on it. Possibly in regards to clearcoating after spraying AA. I would take a look for a quick answer. Mike

I have heard this as well and to be honest have stuck the nose in bags of Berkley powerbaits and there is that wd40 smell...I am sure it isnt the same but smells kind of like wd40.

Jed, I too have run into the same problem. The etex does not lay properly over this paint and it creates craters or an uneven surface. Has to be a chemical reaction.. Mike