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TBait

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Posts posted by TBait

  1. In regards to ETEX. This is a thinner top coat. It wont yellow.

    2 properties that I will share as I did a long time ago. I was given alot of insight by Richoc and he put Carolina Chip onto it as well.

    They say Co2 is what causes the bubbles to release.

    Co2 will release the bubbles however the problem is deeper.

    In order to for a liquid to release airbubbles, the bubbles have to be able to rise to the surface. If you have a substance so thick that they bubbles cant rise, the bubbles wont be released.

    People have said that heat does help. In my opinion you are dead wrong. Heat will thin Etex to the point that it will run like water. Have you ever seen an air bubble in water? It rises to the surface where it will release.

    I would never use a hairdryer...there is a intake and exhaust... whatever is sucked in, will come out. That will be blown onto your fresh sticky epoxy. No way on the hairdryer.

    JMO

    Mike

  2. Keep in mind. Most $200 dollar and up airbrushes have too small of nozzles to spray acrylics.

    So if you are spraying acrylics, make sure the airbrush that you purchase can handle the paint to be sprayed.

    If you thin acrylics too much, they will lose their adhesive qualities... which arent that great to begin with. Comparing to Laquer.....

    laquer of course cant be sprayed inside without some kind of ventilation system.

    There is a huge difference between the $25 dollar airbrush and the $150.00 airbrush...jmo

    Mike

  3. Iwata Eclipse Nozzle sizes

    All Eclipse are a .5 nozzle

    The only one that isnt, is the gravity feed CS. Which is a .35.

    Go to dixieart.com....or coastairbrush.com...it is spelled out.

    I wouldnt go under a .35 for spraying Acrylics... you will have to thin the best of paints. Unless you like thinning...

    Going off memory but I think those nozzle numbers are correct. The CS gravity feed is for sure a smaller nozzle, than the siphon feed Eclipses.

    The high dollar Iwata's are really not designed for spraying acrylics.

  4. Your choice...What type of plastic bait? If it was a luckycraft I might be tempted to sand the clearcoat away and reapply foil and repaint. But for a 3-4 dollar bait, you are going to be putting alot of elbow grease in.

    How big is the smear and where is it at? Can you live with it. Ruined baits are part of the learning process. Can the smear be covered by anything you are spraying in the rest of the pattern?

    I am assuming that you would have another coat of devcon going over the finished bait. 2 coats of devcon over a plastic bait may be adding quite a bit of weight. Might be enough to change the action or kill the action.

  5. Did you clearcoat the balsa and then foil and paint directly to the foil? Were there scale indentations in the foil if you did paint directly to the foil? If this is the case, I think I would just start over. Or spray the bait in a solid color pattern and topcoat again.

    If you topcoated over the foil before you painted, you may be able to sand the area out and repaint. However, I doubt that you will get it back to perfect. My experience is that when you clearcoat the bait again after sanding and repainting that there is a difference in depth.. the clearcoat brings the depth out.

    Look are you building lures to catch fish, or are you building lures as a hobby artist? If a bait is used it will get its dings and teeth marks, they dont have to be pefect to catch fish. In fact I doubt fish see half the details that get put into baits even in gin clear water. The bait is moving to fast for the details to be seen. The details are for selling the bait to the fisherman.

    I always clearcoat over the foil before painting. That way if I make a mistake with waterbase paints, You just wipe away and repaint.

    Heatsetting appears to be a issue with several of the topcoats.... it must be done. Etex,Devcon, Dick Nites....all 3 require this.

    Post a pic and let us look at it..... worse case if the foil is ruined, Spray whitepearl over the whole body and work on a new paints scheme and topcoat it.

    Mike

  6. Less pressure and finer lines are not the same thing.

    Less pressure can be used through a gravity feed,versus a siphon feed given the same viscosity paint.

    Finer lines will be a result of a smaller nozzle / needle combo.

    Paint viscosity will be the governing factor on smaller nozzle needle combos. Thick paint wont spray through these.

    If you spray at high air pressure with a reduced paint, I have found that you lose control of the paint and it begins to spider web.

    So when reducing paint or thinning the paint. The brush that sprays with the least amount of air pressure will win, hands down! This will always be a gravity feed brush.

    Iwata Gravity feeds are impossible to beat!

    JMO

  7. Tally,

    Where did you buy from? A major such as BASS PRO/CABELAS or a smaller shop? Was it an advertised price?

    I am not 100 percent positive on this .But have been told that by several retailers. Same with GLoomis who I believe is owned by Shimano? I think their rods are price fixed as well.

    tbait

  8. Look at the slack in the line when he is buzzing it making a wake on the surface. It appears that the thing is coming at him on its own. It looks like he is worm fishing. I would love to try one of the smaller baits...wow.

  9. It is available or a different product. I ordered some from Lure Hardware and that is the stuff I am looking for. If it is the same (g10fr4), it must vary in appearance by manufacturer greatly. People are Tight lipped and understandable..I am tight lipped on a couple of things myself.

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