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Travis last won the day on February 22

Travis had the most liked content!

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Travis

    red white blue lure

    Sure you can find some as always some that want that sort of stuff. If you are wanting a quality lure however probably going to have it painted as most "patriotic" paint themes will be on junk lures.
  2. Travis

    Beginners Molding Kit

    You have just asked a question that starts a lot of conversation. Summary yes you will need salt or other replacement to function in the role. Salt size is important and guys are all over the place in what is needed and why. Fine stays suspended better but clouds the bait for a few reasons. Ideally should be dry before use (salt naturally picks up water) and fewer additives the better (anti caking agents for example) . Ideally salt that is crystallized in small granules would be the best option but.... Do a search and you will find a lot of information on brands and sources but a "popcorn salt" overall good choice to begin with. Plastic temp also can help as cooler plastic and help keep salt suspended longer (especially if larger grained". Flake salts are a better choice but more costly and frequently you aren't getting what you paid for at one time only one location in US making it from what I recall. Some use round glass bead blasting media in lue of salt. More "true" colors and a more resilient bait. Ebay easy source or can buy a the HD additive from Do it that works similar but more expensive. Personally I would go with glass beads from ebay (size 10 MIL / 100-170 grit).
  3. Travis

    overcoat for chrome?

    Vacuum deposition.... send them out.
  4. Travis

    Has anyone tried making bamboo baits?

    Only bamboo I have messed with has been from Menard's and then some from Woodcraft. Both were solid no gaps.
  5. Travis

    Has anyone tried making bamboo baits?

    Correct. It will be laminated. Not going to find any bamboo with walls thick enough to make a bait easily here in the states. Can buy laminated boards at some of the big box stores. I have bamboo, in the round, in my shop and it works great for wind chimes. Lures I would pass on both the round and the laminate (limited experience with it but not favorable).
  6. Travis

    Handmade Tubes and Splitter Advice

    Ace hardware has the blades, space with washers, and doesn't take much effort to cut with a wood packer and self heal mat. Can create all sorts of different set ups if needed but simple hard to beat.
  7. Travis

    oil compressor ?

    I have three compressors at the house (none are expensive models). A craftsman compressor 1 hp/4 gallon from the late 90's, California Air small model (0.6 HP), and then a small airbrush compressor (most expensive of the three). The airbrush compressor is my least favorite of the three but no issues spraying createx and have used it for years since it is very quiet. The Craftsman is a screamer but have painted a lot of baits with it. The California air does great but haven't used it much. About any brand will get you there boils down to where you put value at.
  8. Travis

    Stone Molds

    Never been a fan of Pam and molds. Always got gummy/tacky.
  9. Travis

    syringe 2 parts epoxy( more than 5 min)

    Bob surely it couldn't be that simple.
  10. Travis

    Paraffin Wax Baits

    I wouldn't personally for a few reasons. I just don't think the durability would be there. The topcoat/shell would need to make up for a lot of negatives of the paraffin. A wood skeleton or some other rigid core would be needed. One would be stuck adding wood in many places to get a good bond of the lip for example and line and hook ties as the paraffin will leave no bondable surface. Screw eyes will thread into it but no real structural support. Another aspect is I try not to leave baits in the boat or locked in the car etc.. Paraffin melting point becomes a huge issue in those situations. Anything over 100 and you starting making a liquid core bait.
  11. Travis

    Lure eye placement

    Some will pick up the knack of eyeballing it almost dead on after building a few baits. Even then easy enough to really be sure by using other methods as not much slower. An easy way to do it, that I use frequently, is use a forstner bit to create my eye socket. Then I will take small drill bit and drill through the centering point left by the bit through the bait. Flip the bait then drill your other eye socket recess. Depending on the size drill bit you use you can insert a rattle, a few lead shot, copper BB, or glue a toothpick or skewer in it to fill the hole. You can also modify a compass to get repeatable points. Place on end of the compass in the lip slot and "index" it against the top or bottom of the lip slot wall. Then adjust the second arm of the compass until you like the area. Press to leave a drill point then. Remove flip bait and mark the second side indexing in the same fashion as distance will be set from you initial marking. Third if you start using patterns you can make templates to lay everything out but many enjoy just building one offs.
  12. Travis

    Plaster of Paris issue

    Modge podge can be bad about that if the mold isn't dried well before use. I have had it peel off after long pouring sessions also.
  13. Travis

    Plaster of Paris issue

    I typically have used acetone. It will often call discoloration in epoxies but typically has about the least amount of effect on other physical properties of the epoxy. As mentioned above other solvents can be used. I used denatured alcohol on many of my first molds and used an assortment of organic solvents I am familiar with from work.
  14. Travis

    Plaster of Paris issue

    Devcon 5 minute thinned is what I use. I thin to water consistency and do a lot coats. Have cut a mold open and have a few mm penetration. After hundreds of molds haven't found anything better (elmers, modge podge, high engine spray paints, soaking it with PAM, mixing glue in the POP, etc...) in regards to what I am looking for in a home made mold. Now I also switched along time ago from POP to Durham's. Little more pricey but think the molds are a better quality in terms of durability. I think the Devcon or similar functioning epoxy gives the closest results to aluminum in respect to keeping detail and gloss. Now any of it will work to be honest just depends on what you're end result/goal is and how well you have worked out the kinks and learned the tricks. Find what works for you that gives you results that you are satisfied with.
  15. Travis

    Mini lathe recommendations

    Really going to come down to what you are wanting to do. As far as knocking out fishing lures every year for you to fish and a some to sell I would skip the low dollar offerings. No need to get a full size lathe and duplicator either in my opinion if not turning out numbers. It isn't very difficult to make a pattern and make replicates. I have owned two lathes and have used many of the other "midi" lathes. While you don't have to drop a lot of money starting out in my opinion a lot of difference when it comes to overall user experience and nothing worse than dropping a few hundred on junk. Crap tools are about the worst investment a guy can make but yet we..... I have used Rikon, Jet, Grizzly, HF, Craftsman (pen lathe), and Delta. Variable speed the way to go. The Craftsman (I own) is a toy and isn't a fair comparison with the others. I did not like using the HF but would take it over the Craftsman any day to the increased power and swing. The Grizzly was very similar to the HF (many very similar knock offs just difference in quality control and specs of parts). The Grizzly lathe was smoother and less issues but not by much. The two Grizzly lathes I used just felt more "solid" than the HF in operation and the tailstock live centers (cheap enough) seamed to be better than those I have used on various HF lathes but may not be indicative. The Rikon (especially now), Jet, and Delta are hands down superior products to the others. Of course cost is more upfront but you have a legit tool that will hold value and performs as intended. I ended up with a Delta 46-460 as I just liked it better and was cheaper than the Jet I was looking at. Delta lathe pretty typically comes in first in every tool comparison done over the years. The Rikon has made some very interesting changes and probably very much worth giving a good look at now. For tools I started cheap as you will need to learn to sharpen and much rather eat up a Benjamin's Best (best value winner frequently) learning than higher end offerings. Replace with better quality stuff as you go. Currently I just end up sharpening more. I ended up buying one thinking hey maybe if I used it collects a lot of dust. I still would try another one just to make sure. You still need to sharpen, turning tools, live centers, chuck if you want to do other stuff, etc... it adds up. You should be able to find the HF lathe for 50 bucks on Craigslist rather easily. Often come across very good lathes with various centers, chucks, rests, turning tools, etc.. for not a bad price either that will come in a good deal overall. Shop vac and dust deputy (or similar) set up is very nice to have to collect fines and shavings. Doesn't take too long to build up a pile of shavings when turning. Depending on your need for other tools shop smiths pop up on craigslist for 350 and up (didn't like them either but would get one if I had limited space).