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Travis

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Travis last won the day on February 10

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. For just trying it out Hobby lobby or Michaels's have it. Take a coupon and not too bad. It almost always on the lower density range from my experiences. I believe I ordered from National balsa in the past.
  2. Travis

    vise question

    Same here I really see no need for a vise for carving lures then again I don't see a chisel as being the best tool for the task either (even though several seam to pick it up from a youtuber). A sharp tool and a controlled hand result in little effort needed to peel away wood in clean shavings with a knife. The other issue is sharp. With a chisel if you can't cut end grain of pine and end up with a shiny/waxy cut you aren't sharp. Should be able to get clean cut with no crushing of the fibers. If it crumbles away need to go back and sharpen. Learn to sharpen your tools and it gets much easier...from my past experiences many guys sharp ins't. If wanting to use a chisel and vise I would make some wood jaws like the plastic ones linked above and glue some magnets in to hold in place.
  3. I don't tape off lips and don't wipe them. You will get a feel of how much epoxy you will need. Typically squeeze out will be at the back of the lip slot on the edges. Just have a toothpick handy and you and dab/twirl the excess away. Helps to have the bait in a vertical position. The topcoat will blend in just fine. I clean hook hangers after it has dried. Typically a small drill bit or cheap diamond burr in a dremel.
  4. Many wood workers liked to use it for cherry, walnut, or mahogany because the light amber/yellow color accentuated the finish. So unless Mohawk reformulated it...I would say a no go. Formerly Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Finish. Maybe Waterlox Crystal Clear but have no experience with it.
  5. Welcome Daniel. Don't frequent Bass Resource but do manage to end up on a few different sites (Craftsman on the lake ). Great hobby to get into and especially when you are already have a shop with all the tools and the experience to go along with it. A lot of information on the site and plenty of guys that have built a lure or two.......
  6. Travis

    line tie in bill

    Just personal preference. Twisting the wire isn't an issue for this lip style (typically don't use brass).
  7. If going to do multiple style baits then drilling multiple holes the way to go. Just make a simple grid layout and no need to glue in the dowels. When not used for larger baits can just hold normal baits vertically/horizontally for use. A 1 inch layout manages to cover most needs and you can go diagonal as well if needed for some baits. Can also arrange baits in row and make a pass back and forth and highlight the belly on all the lures, back etc.. when painting comes in handy for a lot of different things if doing smaller numbers. It is good for glue up for multiple jointed baits. Alligator clip the nose then, hinge between first/second segment, stick a tooth pick in the back of second segment and hold with alligator clip and wait for glue to dry.
  8. MDF blocks have been what I have been using in the past. Always seams to have some 3/4 scrap in the shop. Several of the videos out there show similar set up so I figured no need to change.
  9. 1k refers to the product does not need any other component to harden. 2k needs a catalyst, hardner, or activator to set.
  10. I typically use either a forstner or a brad point and both used with a drill press I have been using a cheap set of forstner bits and they do a good job as long as I keep up with sharpening. I use a brad point bit most of the time now as the set I bought a few years ago perform flawlessly for the task. Drilling holes... doesn't get much more mundane right. I splurged a few years ago and decided to buy myself a set of Lee valley HSS imperial brad point bits. Strange doing something so simple (since child hood) and coming to the instant realization drilling the first hole that a quality bit does something so exponentially better than everything I had used in the past.
  11. Are you using the same Devcon syringe or bottles or same thing occurs with different sources? Your mixing container...does the cured residual epoxy do the same? I have not had amine blush be an issue with Devcon 30 minute epoxy and have been using it for going on 16 years or more on lures. Based on what you have tried I wouldn't think the moisture in the bait/paint would not be an issue. Mixing issues almost always end up being tacky/slow curing baits or lumpy (faster cure) portions in the cured clear. I still believe your picture is consistent with amine blush. Typically if it makes its way to the surface it can be cleaned up completely or to a degree with the soapy water or may rub out with alcohol. May be trapped within the coat and didn't migrate to top of bait.
  12. Looks like amine blush. If the bait has cured try wiping down with rubbing alcohol and/or warm soapy water and then pat dry. Is it still present? Amine blush and can occur in cool humid conditions with the application of epoxies. Moisture and temperature are variable we can control to minimize the likely hood of occurrence. If using wood blanks and float tested make sure they are dry before painting and if using water based paint make sure they have cured. You always want a dry substrate when coating with epoxy. Run a dehumidifier in a room to reduce humidity. At lower temperatures the epoxy cures slower and you increase the amount of amine blush that forms as more moisture comes into contact, so heat can help speed the reaction. A light box with an incandescent bulb is often enough to warm to reduce the issue just take some precautions with the build or just bump the temp up a few degrees in the room. Typically 75 to 85 ° and 50 % or below relative humidity are good ranges to work with epoxy whether we are talking lures, wood working, boat building, etc....
  13. I left out a lot of the pics of the process weighting, cutting open the bait, measuring, profiles, etc... They were basswood builds but the final ones were cedar. I had several reference baits provided but the two in photo were the biggest differences. Poe's during that time had some of the worst quality control. I leaned more towards using measurements that were close to ones in my personal collection that performed well. I do add taper lines typically until jigs are made. I had to take look back at the photo properties... Those baits were from 2006. I just painted over this past Christmas a few of the blanks remaining that I made that year from this work. some
  14. Molding lures and casting is a viable option for sure and just another method we have available for our use. I made a lot that way off and on over a few years. If needing to do a complex detailed lure and replicate then about the only way to go without taking up too much time. I also work in multiples when casting. I want enough molds at hand so I can mix up a batch (I use 2 part urethane foam) and fill up several molds before it starts to bloom. For me that was typically 3 or 4 molds so I wanted triple that. I would set up all the molds with the weighted through wire harness opened up. Mix up the batch and could fill the first 3 or 4 and assemble the molds and then clamp. Then do the second set, then the third set. At that point I would demold the first set, cut the spru, and load the harness back in. Then move to the second set of molds, then the third and start the process over. In an hours time I could have a lot of blanks ready for float testing and adjusting (flat sides typically as round baits rarely needed adjusting). Overall I enjoyed making them less than wooden baits so haven't made too many for some time but do have a few things wanting to try out this year and will be making a few new molds.
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