Travis

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Travis last won the day on September 14

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Sweet gum?

    No reason to turn wood and something that isn't usually done. Just needs to be stickered properly and in are area with proper air flow until dry. At that point the wood can be unstickered and stored however you want. Poplar isn't a hard wood to air dry. In many areas 4/4 and be done in 9-10 months. Your area may take a little longer but you can find the information on similar climate areas and the decrease in MC (moisture content) of the wood from harvesting (month dependent). Lots of variables however so the inch/year rule usually gets used as a catch all. For your area a 12-14% MC about the best you will get to unless you take it inside at that point and dry further in a controlled climate. Not really and issue for cranks and no big expansion contractions issues as one would have to be worried about with furniture joinery. Typically down to 8% and typically what is sought for 8 to 10% for general furniture making (get out west in dryer climates and 6% comes into play as being achievable). For smaller pieces and if you really are in a hurry you can microwave dry them. Heat for 1 minute to 1.5 minutes then let cool to ambient temperature. Repeat, repeat, repeat..... You need to take an initial weight and stop once you reach equilibration. Can always make solar kiln or setup a kiln with light bulbs and dehumidifier an speed things up. I would mill the logs into boards then visually sort it into high and low grades. The high grade/quality wood gets sandwiched in the middle the lower grade stuff. Space the stack off the ground. The boards should be spaced about 1 inch apart and the same thickness boards done on each layer. sticker properly, and use some treated plywood (or similar to cover the top of the stack) and weight with cinder blocks or similar weight. If you see mold you are drying too slow, checks/cracking and drying to fast. Plenty of examples from forestry departs, wood working sites, etc.. how to properly air dry wood.
  2. Sweet gum?

    Poplar will be fine for cranks if you want to to give it a go. Air drying takes some time however and probably looking at late spring early summer (and easily later depending on conditions) if you did it now. I would cut some up also if I had some available. Always more room for supplies.
  3. Sweet gum?

    Personally I wouldn't use sweet gum for lures. Notoriously difficult to keep straight when drying (so air drying usually out) and the interlocking grain is prone to tear out. It would be more valuable milled/kiln dried or cut up into turning blanks. Many turners find it desirable. I have made a few bowls and platters from it over the years and milled some and made small boxes to sell at the shows. Usually kiln dried sweet gum will fall in the middle price range for domestic hardwoods, depending on the area. Poplar would be the much better better option and does get used ( more for larger toothy critters). I would say most would find the color mentioned above opposite, however. The heart wood contains most of the color when present (usually do to mineral uptake or stress) but is typically pale yellow with the sapwood being pale yellow to white. All the color goes to browns upon oxidation/time. Grain usually straight and runs uniform and the wood is very easy to work with. Commonly used for utility wood as the color/appearance isn't valued typically. Gets used a lot in framing of furniture, core wood with more valuable veneer woods, moldings, plywood, etc... Many woodworkers like to use it for wood projects that will be painted. Commonly available at the store and essentially next step up over pine. Honestly wouldn't be worth paying anyone to mill a tree just for your use, in my opinion, based on the prices at the store. Not for sure what your going rates are for a guy and his portable mill. Not expensive by any means but usually better have several trees and a "more" valuable wood. Large company will want acreage to mess with. You can buy a lot of poplar for cranks for under 20 bucks at a big box store and even more from a mill and dirt cheap from an individual. For polar 1.50 to 2.00 a bd/ft is easy to find (kiln dried) in my area. A lot of guys end up milling wood and finding out they can't get rid of it. You can mill your own if you have some basic tools and don't have to to a big tree. A large limb will do fine for your use and resaw it, sticker it and dry. I usually have a small stack of various woods stickered and drying in the back near the shop for wood working projects.
  4. Bob's tackle shop

    I don't really worry about this sort of thing. Place your order (via credit card). If it doesn't get sent in a timely fashion then give them a call and issue resolved. Dealing with many of these small companies is nothing but a headache in regards to calls, emails, being told one thing then another. Just not worth the effort compared to one call.
  5. Repairing Huddlestons

    The fabric will work but from my recollection coffee filters were being used to strengthen baits back when I joined in 2004. Baits like drop shot baits or jig trailers as to pass the hook through. Some were experimenting (may be 5 years ago) with the super stretchy formula/additives that made baits much tougher. I never used any of it and really don't know how it performed. Lurecraft 536 perhaps? A few guys were also using plastisol ink stretch additives bought directly from various places online. The interesting thing to note is that none of them are common place in the hobby. Usually a telling sign.
  6. Soft Plastic Swimbait Master

    I think you will find that the junction from the tail to the body is too thick.
  7. Resin hard baits

    I ended up molding a lot of cranks (bass) and mainly used 2 part polyurethane foams (16 lb density). Many have used the foams for tooth critters also with out any issue. Mainly used US composites foam but did do some resins from Smooth-On. Doesn't take long and you can churn out a lot of baits. Unfortunately most of the tutorials or posts on how do things have been lost. Many were far superior to what one frequently comes across now. Typical RTV mold and foam lure. Still have a few of those molds over 11 years now.
  8. Rotisserie motor

    I don't think I have ever heard anyone have issues with the typical rotisserie motor sold for grills using Devcon, Etex, etc... I believe most would fall into the 6 RPM range (+/-). Now you can get much faster but begins to defeat the purpose as it won't allow the top coat to level and causes it to stay pooled. Various variables also at play but figure unless one really works hard at messing things up a 6 RPM motor will work fine. Some have used 2 RPM motors but usually for top coats with higher viscosity.
  9. Rotisserie motor

    I paid under 30 bucks for a Charbroil rotisserie motor about 14 years ago and have turned a few lures over that time with no issues. At one time I was looking at building a new set up with a high dollar variable speed motor they were going to throw away from work. Never built it as figured my set up works just fine for the 10 to 20 baits max I do at a time.
  10. ISO 3.5 inch junebug tubes

    Gitzit is essentially what BPS was copying to get the "tender tube". Haven't fished a tender tube in a long time however so may be different from what I used. Dipping is easy to do and goes really quick if you have thought out the process. Cutting the tails is the only slow part but nothing too bad even with rudimentary set up. Once you have a cutting block set up you can press them fairly quickly with consistency.
  11. ISO 3.5 inch junebug tubes

    I have always used hard, salt water, tube plastic or whatever the seller is calling it for tubes. I dip my tubes and usually make them thin walled like git zits.
  12. Do you need an injector for a senko mold?

    I mainly hand pour baits to use but inject several also. Really tackle is just too cheap (always find stuff on clearance or stores closing) for the amount I use now to mess with making it. I injected more as fewer wanted hand poured laminates in custom colors and for every one of those would have dozens wanting junebug, zoom watermelon, etc.... baits in exact styles. Made no sense to hand pour many of the baits and depending on the style just too slow. Something like a senko no big deal and likely at one time poured faster than many I have been around injecting the bait. The fun hobby became more like stamping out widgets and at that point it started making more sense (in time investment and cost) to outsource to those with legit injection machines and try and go bigger. I had no interest in that (very likely not the ability/desire to succeed and even then that usually ins't enough) and didn't see it likely to replace my real job in regards to income, benefits, flexibility, and overall security. So many small lure companies just don't make it.
  13. Do you need an injector for a senko mold?

    I think several would point out we are talking very different subjects. True hand pours are high end baits that were specifically crafted for texture colors and layers to meet high pressure finesse fishing conditions of typically clear water western reservoirs. They were superior quality baits and highly sought after. I never came across bad quality baits initially wasn't until later became you better make sure you knew who you were ordering from. The addition of deep water fisheries on the BASS scene and guys like Aaron Martens drops shotting for deeper fish further fueled the 'hand pour" market in the southern fisheries as it brought a tactic that most southern anglers could use to fish waters they never had before. Improvements in electronics along with ledge cranking and carolina rigging had already started open eyes years earlier. Translation it allowed bank beaters to move out to open water structure. Lure makers capitalized on the situation. What hand pours has become is not the same. Guys had no intention of creating the high quality baits they were pouring low dollar knock offs. Senkos pretty much gave lure making a make over. Senkos and traditional bubba baits/color scheme of the southern fisheries was what guys were making. Guys were looking at a poor man's equivalent to high number production allowing them to sell a bait for cheaper than the big brands and "catch'" the guy that had read about hand pours and them being an elite method for angling.
  14. Do you need an injector for a senko mold?

    Hand pouring is one of those things that some just never can pick up. Some guys could try pouring into a 5 gallon bucket from 6 inches away and end up with more plastic on the floor somehow.
  15. Do you need an injector for a senko mold?

    You will get incomplete pours. You can fill your mold half full then close it and any plastic that is hot will run down and fill the base and then leave you with about 1/2 a senko. Of course you could try filling the sprue some and it would fill in partially some of the cavities but still going to be junk baits. I think I would recommend that you go with an injector and injection mold as very little learning curve.