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Travis last won the day on February 22

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About Travis

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Clear coat with Gorilla clear glue

    It may the interesting part about it however "Store in a cool, dry place with exposure to light. Lack of light and heat can cause product to yellow. " To me sandable is the issue. Products designed to be sandable scratch easily. Hook rash and wear would be an issue.
  2. Clear coat with Gorilla clear glue

    Wrong product. Gorilla glue makes a lot of different products now. You are referring to their initial water activated polyurethane formula. They have epoxies, silicone sealants, tape, and various other products now. The clear gorilla glue is a non foaming product (can even make it out on the poor picture above). I would not expect it to perform well as topcoat however based on it being "sandable". Not going to hurt to try it out on a scrap piece of wood and see how it performs. Now the white gorilla glue may be a good seal coat for balsa or other wood baits. Waterproof, sandable, paintable, etc... and white in color.
  3. something brighter than alu tape?

    Just the burnishing process will increase the luster but that leaves it far short. The picture above is from jrhopkins and I believe he uses Mother's aluminum polish. I have used various polishes including some designed for plastics with good results. Here is an old jerk bait I did that was burnished with a wooden dowel (photo prior to cleaning with rubbing alcohol to remove some adhesive that squeezer out at seams and a gray residue that forms during burnishing). Definitely not as shiny/reflective if not polished. Some foil tapes are slightly better than others (but only tried a few different ones).
  4. something brighter than alu tape?

    Going to be subjective as what do you mean by brighter. More reflective? In my opinion the aluminum foil duct tape is by far the best option available to the average guy. Cost, ease of use and results when done correctly are far better than anything else I have observed in person or on sites. jrhopkins has posted some pics showing the foil after polishing I have several of the decofoil transfer sheet colors and they give good results but think the foil still wins. Lure prep becomes a lot more important with thin foils don't cover much in regards to improperly sanded/sealed baits and very prone to get incomplete transfer of the foil so "splotchy" results. Only way to really get much better is spend the money and send your baits out to be vacuum depositon, vacuum metalizing, or whatever the current trendy term is.
  5. Craftwell marker air brush

    A few on the site use Copic systems. I have used one (Copic) at a craft store and wouldn't ever trade my airbrush in for it. It was quick and easy do just slipping in markers but did have limitations. It just wasn't something I was interested in based on what I look for in a lure.
  6. Computer Printed Lure Wraps!

    Check out Hughsey's link. At the 4 minute mark. I said stamp but pad printing is the true term I believe. Stamping use the pad printer head. The stamp/pad (silicone typically) presses down and "picks up" the paint/ink that has been left by the squeegee/pad (flat disc in the video that works similar to silk screen) then deposits onto the lures when loaded. Very common process in various industries.
  7. Computer Printed Lure Wraps!

    Water slide decals are about the easiest way to go for the average hobbyist. Stamp printing big boys.
  8. Sealing Wooden Crank preferences

    Use same method as BobP.
  9. How to find center on a round dowel?

    Centering squares generally what they are called. A 1 and 1/2 inch version works well for smaller dowels. Some pen turning sites also sell versions like Pete's and many make their own as he did as some like the longer length as it is easier for them to hold it and the blank at once while marking. Woodcraft has a pocket version.
  10. Best way to adhear a CB Lip

    I don't scuff circuit board lips but always do polycarbonate lips. In my opinion brittle doesn't factor into our application with bill installation. Top coat Devcon (30 minute) can crack if you wing the crank into a concrete piling or rip rap. I like fast cure because I can glue a few dozen bills in and then go straight to clear coating and never have had bills shift after placement this way. Nothing wrong with going slower cure just never found it to be an issue, now if one has to fiddle a lot to get the bill straight may be an issue (where lure build method and consistency comes into play).
  11. Recipe for Honey

    Definitely need a photo. Off hand I can't think of a "honey" named color besides honey bun (Wave Worms). Honey to me would be a translucent color and depending on where you want to go with the color starting with an amber, rootbeer, or cinnamon color. May end up having to add a little brown, motor oil, yellow, chartreuse, etc.. depending on where you are wanting to go with it.
  12. Best way to adhear a CB Lip

    I only target bass. Typically I have used 5 minute epoxy, Devcon. It will turn yellow slowly over time and is visible if you leave squeeze out (especially on light colored baits). I like my bills to be flush with the bait and wipe all squeeze out off so no issues. I typical drill holes also but never had any bills fail that weren't drilled either. Never found it to make a difference to be honest but it takes only seconds to drill a few holes in a stack of bills so not like we are adding any significant time to the process. Some guys like to pin the bills also. Cranks I fish...yellow glue around the lip slot is the least of its problems.
  13. Need a Mold

    I have always used Del's 4 inch "centipede" mold (open pour). One of those molds that if you know what you are doing can pour a lot in no time. No frills simple bait that produces. Likely can find similar mold makers or mold it yourself if you want (very easy to do) but aluminum molds always where I would end up on most lures.
  14. Select Pine

    Shellac has historically been used to combat pine resin issues prior to paint in woodworking.
  15. Wood Link

    Central basswood available. You can pay an arm and a leg and get basswood at Menards, Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc. but I wouldn't pay more than a few bucks a board foot as just too easy to get if you live in WI, MI, IN, PA, OH, etc... Unless looking for something rare/special no need to order online as just paying a lot for shipping and usually being charged a premium. Most of the common US woods are readily available locally for most of us in central/eastern US. Bennett Hardwoods or Granite Valley will have it and probably less than 30 minutes from you Dinger (along with cedar). Any decent place will source what you want also with no issues. Depending on who you know might find basswood for cheap (free) but will have to air dry it likely. Around here many run small operations on their property and basswood typically cut and pushed into a burn pile to free up space for for more desirable trees. I got about 250 board feet via this way just had to air dry it.