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Travis last won the day on July 28

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About Travis

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  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

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  1. Typically you will have more issues with soft wood and glue lines when sanding but should not be an issue with douglas fir.
  2. Carve away, the glue won't make much difference.
  3. The Grainger model 9.3 lbs /in torque vs 25 to the McMaster model. McMaster is already wired and has a fan but imagine the shipping to Toronto area is the catch.
  4. Flat, parallel, square, all just make things so much easier to repeat processes. I have a fairly complete shop and know we all find different tools more value able. That said a no 5 plane is hard to beat if you only are going to have one.
  5. I looked the other day and mine is the 20 RPM model from McMaster Carr. Never had any issues for over 10 years now. Several threads on the site from long ago with other parameters. Depending on how much plastic you are doing at once may want more torque when you are passing the phase transitions from liquid to "solid" to liquid.
  6. I find most all the "generic" foils to be acceptable. Reason they are cheap compared to Reynolds. Dollar store always a good bet.
  7. Haven't looked for any. I definitely have bashed my head a few times when messing with Fusion 360. Pretty much stuck looking for you tube videos on how to do something similar. Very detailed....do your research.
  8. Don't worry about that stuff design a lure that works. Then start adding the variables. Gills and scales aren't usually an issue (ok scales can interfere with hook swing and cause premature wear/hook rash). Fins... depending on design can kill lure action, reduce hooks ups, pick up aquatic vegetation, get tangled in branches, reduce casting distance, etc... The more experienced an angler becomes the more one finds out many lure makers make really pretty lures.
  9. Lead is about 10 x greater than gidgee. Essentially you are just adding more visual interest on a natural bait. Weight as normal and plug for visual appeal. The plug is going to add some weight but easy enough to do the calculations and adjust as needed. Now many years ago 15 or more some on the site were building cranks from laminating two different density woods. So in your case you could laminate the cedar or beech upper to bottom gidgee.
  10. I haven't tried printing a mold as simply takes too long for something that I know isn't going to work as needed. PLA molds for soft plastics simply is a poor media. Much better off just printing the bait and molding it in both time, effort, and use of product. Maybe I will goof around over winter break with printing some masters and see about making a mold of them. I am so proficient in Fusion 360 might be done next winter.
  11. I believe when I built mine I used the AC Face Mount Gear motor https://www.mcmaster.com/ac-motors/face-mount-compact-ac-gearmotors/ Believe it is the 20 rpm, 25 torque model and jsut use a shaft coupler to connect motor to stir rod. https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-couplers/set-screw-shaft-couplings/
  12. I have never had issues with the stuff welding together on my bandsaw or table saw. Any of my handsaws cut through it with about as much difficulty as balsa. I did get it to melt on the lathe with just riding the bevel and have melted it with a dremel (30000 RPM). However I hate using the stuff so avoid using it as much as possible.
  13. What blade are you using? I would think something like a no 9 skip tooth would work well. Something like an Olsen FR45000. I say Olsen just because easy to get at most big box stores.
  14. Easy, 100% accurate, on the water....suspend strips or dots. Golf head lead tape the cheaper option.
  15. Agar agar can be directly substituted for gelatin at the same ratio. I think I shared this patent in the past on the biodegradable threads but could be wrong. https://patents.google.com/patent/US6753004B2/en
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