Jump to content

Travis

TU Member
  • Content Count

    1,394
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    29

Travis last won the day on September 14

Travis had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

453 Excellent

1 Follower

About Travis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,133 profile views
  1. No. 15 and 14. You are correct in that a new airbrush should have functioned properly... that is when you should have called for help. Nine months later after chucking it against a wall? Micheal's has a lot of coupons now. one is 60% off one item. Drive over to Keller and buy another one. I looked at one earlier this week thinking I might see about it for spraying finishes on small woodworking projects.
  2. Iwata in my opinion about the best brush I have used. No major differences between them just subtle things in regards to quality. I have used the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS autographics brush for years with no problems at all. Neo is budget friendly option so going to likely come across lemons more frequently. I am in agreement with Bob and likely defective brush from the get go or also likely just need to be tweaked out of the box. If the brush was leaking air first place to look was the valve body set and valve body o-ring. May have been as simple as a cracked o ring. Trigger sticking even after cleaning likely needed a little airbrush lube or possible to clean up some flash from the casting so it was freely moving. If paint not spraying could be a few issues. Paint too thick, not enough pressure due to escaping air to function properly, small bit of dried paint clogging nozzle, etc.. Difficult to paint with brush not functioning right especially if not enough time has been spent painting to know what to trouble shoot.
  3. Simply allows you to dilute the color without thinning. It will be the same mixture as their illustration line of paints just with no pigment. Allows for better control and smooth gradient color transitions.
  4. Travis

    any one!

    Most of the stuff I turn on the lathe ends up being for others as so many that didn't fish much recall top waters from their parents or grandparents. I don't sell any lures anymore so mainly personal use. I have a lot of tackle so tend to hold back on some designs as already have more than I will use in the next 40 + years.
  5. Travis

    any one!

    Mainly make shallow cranks and top waters as much of my fishing now ends up being wading shallow creeks. Do make a few deeper diving cranks also but just don't fish near what I used to. I also like to make wooden sammy style top waters. I have turned several prop baits and poppers also. I use basswood (99.9% of the lures) then balsa, big tooth aspen, and paulowina.
  6. Travis

    any one!

    I wouldn't judge what is being done based on what gets posted. It will skew your view. I make almost all my baits from wood.
  7. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    Since you stated by the time you finish I doubt you have any issues in regards to proper cure and resulting performance of your top coat. I have a lot of plastic cups deform when residual epoxy is left to cure.
  8. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    Epoxy curing is exothermic reaction (gives off heat). If you mix enough volume and have sufficient depth it can heat up to surprisingly warm temperatures. Hot enough to melt some plastics and cause burns. Depending on volume/mass, far more than what we use for lures, curing epoxy can reach temperatures in excess of 350 °F. Typically we mix volumes in containers that result in thin layers. The thin layer increases surface area and allows to cool. As the layer gets thicker it gets hotter as heat can't dissipate and the hotter it gets the faster the curing reaction progresses and further increases heat.
  9. All boils down to what you want in a mold and the time you want to put into it. Guys use methods and techniques that I found to be poor for various reasons and they in return likely have negatives against my favorite thinned epoxy. I am not for sure if any technique that is mentioned on this site I have not used over the past 15 or so years when I have made molds. I switched out to aluminum molds for many of the lures that are essentially knock offs. Of the molds I kept (maybe 100) majority ended up being Durham's and epoxy coated. Few are high heat paint and maybe a dozen RTV. Saturate with PAM, Vegetable, etc... oils.... over time sticky molds, molds go rancid and smell, and need to clean the mold as always a "goop" built up no mine that I did that way. Cleaning molds never a good thing. Modge Podge.... peeled and finish poor. Overall I think it is just too thick of a product even with thinning and it seams to maintain a level of tackiness as we have non lure making things coated in modge podge that will stick to the surface of something if left sitting without moving or worse of a problem with heat. Elmers thinned... had it go soft a few times and peeled from some cavities. Think it is easy to leave brush strokes even in thinned stuff. Slower set time so need to apply thin. Slow flash times as thinned typically with water and not a fan of adding water to POP molds. Can end up with mold growing under the finish but doesn't effect the mold. High heat enamel..it wore and gives less additional strength to fine details or edges. Very quick however in drying time but with the need for multiple thin misting coats to slowly build up adds more. If you are heavy handed and impatient not the best method. Titebond.... mixed in to mix stronger mold finish pretty good. Thinned and coated finish better but some loss of crispness. Superglue... sets up fast but finish can be tricky if you plan on building up a glass like finish. If just coating to let it soak in great but finish not as smooth as building it up. I do use it to strengthen areas fine raised details initially as no pressure/brushing needed just touch the drop and it wicks in. Epoxy thinned. I thin to water like consistency and apply with a small brush. First several or more coats go on very quick and it wicks right in like the super glue. Just you can apply it much quicker. The dryness of the mold plays a huge factor in how many coats it takes. Wetter molds don't get as much penetration. Dryer is better. I probably end up doing a dozen coats consecutively. It flashes off in time you can go back and start the first cavity so no long weight times. I use Devcon 5 minute for this and just leave it to the next day typically but have poured after sealing a few times to test out. With all the paint/glue methods you can get really good baits just some a little more tricky than others. For two piece I didn't like paints as it starts to effect the joining of the two halves. Elmers and Titebond and Modge podge just seam to build up too thick and tendency to pool slightly in deeper cavities. Go to brush it out and easy to steak. Titebond mixed into the mold wasn't too bad in the ones I made. Bondo body filler, easy quick method to make molds but it does shrink and is soft and doesn't do well with heat/clamping. Shrinking can be nice if you want to go smaller bait. One of the first time I used it was purely because needed baits quick. I made a mold, and started copying that mold, the next mold, etc... I made I believe 8 total molds and the final mold gave baits about 20% smaller. Bondo fiberglass good but need to incorporate backing and rigidity from my experiences as if you do any long pouring sessions have had then start to curl. Picks up detail very well. I ended adding support rods during molding and eventually just poured thicker and increased margins around cavities. But starts to add up in costs if you are making many molds. Least amount of experience with however. RTV silicone, cost the big negative and in time they start to lose their luster. Takes a long time for larger pours to cool and poor heat transfer. Picks up detail very well. POP cheapest material and not the best strength but can be improved with glue/epoxy coating methods. Some loss of detail in molding but if you take your time can get good detail. Durhams Rock Puddy not too expensive but more than POP. Tougher than POP but very similar overall in handling and product. Picks up detail slightly better from my experience. Dental plasters.. worked well but didn't find much better results than one can get with Durham's or even POP. Bottom line do what you want that gets you baits that you are satisfied with.
  10. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    The way of forums.... on open ended questions understandable specific questions well guys read/interpret questions in different ways or participate for different reasons. He did find the specific double silicone bowl he was looking for but he had started two threads. The important thing is you all missed the real issue DEVCON or NOT ???
  11. I have had some spooks that were modified with some shot in the main body cavity. Never found it any better. I had some older spooks and they were weighted with a cylindrical lead plug in the tail on those. Most of the modern spooks have a large steel ball in the tail end that is either held in place or molded into a larger cavity in the tail section.
  12. As mentioned no real need for weight transfer as you can cast a spook as further than you need most of the times. They are also tail weighted so no need to transfer weight on the cast. It also isn't a crank bait that needs the weight transferred forward to achieve proper action. Just the opposite in fact as if the weight shifts towards the mid section as action is killed. Even if you place a weight transfer system in a spook the walking action puts the weight in tail. No way to move it forward unless you nose weight the lure so when paused it shift nose down.
  13. McMaster Carr is where I end up ordering some typically (along with other odds and ends). A 12 x 12 sheet of 1/16th with run just under 5 bucks.
  14. Everyone is going to tackle it a little different... Createx Pearl white or platinum, transparent chartreuse, pearl black, peal blue, and Folk Art peridot is what I would likely use starting out. Fairly certain i would end up very close with those colors. Can mix in highlight power to flat colors also. Much will boil down to how comfortable you are with a brush and capabilities.
  15. Personally I don't get too hung up on the anti caking agents. Griding/flouring salt caused much more issues in regards to dulling the baits. I believe the Kosher salt I used was Diamond Crystal Kosher that I ended up getting at a health food place. They had a few others but I was only trying the Kosher to see how it differs from the usual salts I had used in the past. Not worth paying more from my experience. The glass beads will give the clearest baits. I would stick with typical no 8 (70 to 100) bead. If you can find small sample packs of 7 or 6 to try out. Just make sure getting bead and not abrasive.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top