Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Travis last won the day on January 1

Travis had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

418 Excellent

1 Follower

About Travis

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    Fishing, Aquariums, Photography, Carving, Woodworking, and countless others I can't seem to find time for.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,020 profile views
  1. I fish a lot of creeks for smallies and many of the guys in the area that are serious creek anglers go with heavy braid for this very purpose. Hooks will straighten out, o rings open up, or the branch break. Few lures are lost and you don't ruin a spot that are far and few in between.
  2. I made a few this way as "joke" gifts for some guys I fished with off and on. They were big believers in lures make the anglers where I am from the other camp. As mentioned just tape the leads directly to the battery essentially making a "throwie" without the magnet. At one time a lot of how to videos on making throwies (way of tagging bridge overpasses, street signs, etc...) Should get one to two weeks of continuous use if just wanting to prototype something initially. You can add colored plexiglass in places to get spots, eyes, etc if so inclined. Trip to dollar store for a few of their LED nightlights or flashlights is where I got my materials.
  3. 365nm is the wavelength you are looking for.
  4. I had a lot of the Excalibur stuff at one time (still probably have several dozen) as the local Kroger's grocery store hand a shopping cart full of them for some reason when I was in college in the 90's. I think they were between 0.25 to 0.75 cents a piece. I sold a lot of them during those years.
  5. Model is BD5F. Agree with Salty.
  6. You are much more forgiving than I am. Delete their entries and give them the boot. The instructions are not that hard, lets not reward stupidity.
  7. For bass lures; 19 gauge soft temper stainless steel from the local hardware or order from McMaster Carr (0.041 302/304 stainless down to .032 or so for smaller baits).
  8. Travis

    copy machine

    Reason I have a 3D printer sitting in box going on 9 months.....
  9. Jig the way to go. Doesn't have to be too complicated either. Personally would just take two pieces of wood and make and L with them then attach it to a base. The round dowel will nestle in the corner and be supported vertically by your jig. The base should clamp to your drill press table and positioned so the drill bit will be centered on the dowel. I would just hold the dowel in place with my thumb and drill knock them out in short order. With this set up can knock a bunch out quick. You can also make a holder similar to a lead weigh mold out of wood. Just drill a slightly smaller diameter circle than your dowel. Use a hinge on one end and can open and close the handle to hold the piece. Will still need to make a stop system to register the holder so always center. The first option just much easier and quicker.
  10. Most will seal the balsa first. Superglue or thinned epoxy both popular choices. I dipped a lot in dissolved plastic solo cups or the propionate dip. Personally superglue is the way I typically go. After sealing I then lay down a base coat/primer then paint. I still prefer Devcon 30 minute for a topcoat.
  11. I have always sealed with thinned devcon. No issues and no loss of detail if done properly. Tried various other methods... well still use the devcon method.
  12. My wife has it on her craft table. I assume the just wrap strips of it around the bait the paint and then unwrap. Someone on the site (many years ago) was wrapping baits and painting to get wacky patterns.
  13. I have observed what you are seeing in the past once based on your newest description. It was with some Gorilla Glue Epoxy being used on a wood working project. I first thought it was my mixing (however never had this occur with the D2T 5 or 30 minute) so mixed some more and still had it happen. Very minimal amount of the product would quickly cure and was granular in nature. I chalked it up to degradation/contaminant in the initial product; likely slightly different related chemical pre/polymer in the epoxide portion or potentially small impurity in the "hardener portion" that chemical reacts at different rate with the product. Either way based on the amount of epoxy I had used in the past just chucked it.
  14. Pictures of the bait, if you can get good pictures of the top coat, will help. Bristles are too easy to see and would easily be removed during top coatings. Bubbles never resulted in a finish that I think of as protruding particles as usually just the opposite with little smooth craters/dimples.
  15. Usually I just use stencils or a modified comb and either do solid stripes or mottled/stippling with the air brush. Never used wonder web but sounds interesting.
  • Create New...