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Everything posted by Travis

  1. It doesn't take much practice to rip a lure blank in half with a handsaw. A Japanese pull saw will make short work of most woods used to make lures. Personally I would take a bandsaw over a sander any day. Cut out lure blanks, resaw, cut lips, cut lip slots, and can trim bait profiles. I have used shears frequently to cut out lips but these are for bass cranks. Can almost cut on the line with round lips and coffin bills come out about as close to clean as one can get. I use Lenox aviation snips when cutting them out. I could see it being an issue with thicker lexan however. M
  2. I never liked messing with lead (melting/pouring) so typically have used the lead wire above, casting weights, etc.. I have also used a lot of lead bird shot (sporting goods store going out of business so got it dirt cheap).
  3. Technically white, black, yellow, blue, red, silver, and maybe gold would be the bare bones that one can mix to make about all colors. Check out color wheels and color theory for more information. I would personally add a brown and chartreuse. Can add all sorts of other colors to make things easier but if we are purely talking budget then above is more consistent with what you are looking for. The createx kits aren't bad in regards to prepackaged colors. If you have a hobby lobby you can use the 40% discount coupon on the primary kit and come in around 17 bucks for 6 colors.
  4. Didn't even notice when I was typing it out. My youngest will get a kick out of it as about every night I am telling him to check his work as easy to make stupid mistakes.
  5. Everything on that box is replaceable. Start trouble shooting. The OMRON PID Temperature controller is likely discontinued but they should be able to recommend a substitute. You can also look up stats on the sticker and just order replacement off amazon.
  6. Fairly straight forward equation and several online calculators or if you have an experience with excel can whip it out. Volume of the hole (cylinder) is needed then you multiply by density. So the weight would be: Wt=[π⋅r2⋅h]⋅ d So all you need to do is substitute in your known variables. We know pi, r2 is equal to the diameter (simply the drill bit size used), h would be the height or in our case the depth of the hole, and finally d is the density of the material used to fill the hole.
  7. I had a few but probably several hundred rattle traps and cordell super spots in comparison. A few other styles I tried but never ended up pushing traps and spots.
  8. Yeah the date should be pretty close. The month is off by a few but the year is correct.
  9. I used Zinsser Spray shellac as easy to apply, dries within minutes, and sands easily and can build coats no problem. Wood filler can also be used to get a final smooth bait. Once the master is made you can just use your finger and wipe problematic areas with the wood filler and sand once set up may help to thin slightly with water. Don't need anything high end and Minwax products easy to get at most big box stores. Can also mold up areas with the wood filler very easily to make changes. Durham's water puddy can also be used in the same fashion but doens't smooth as easy. The
  10. After sanding until smooth I will spray with shellac.
  11. Selling baits... Few ways to go with depending on your goals. Identify your goals and do what best suits those goals. High end quality baits aimed at getting $$$$$, knocking out baits quick and selling numbers for cheap, are you trying to just break even, make money, etc.. Finally I will say do a search about Federal Excise Tax and fishing lures....at least be aware of Form 720 Part II No. 41.
  12. I usually just swing into local pet store and buy airline tubing. Usually around 6 bucks.
  13. The stirrers are really easy to make and anyone capable of injecting soft plastics should have the ability to make one if they want. It doesn't have to be too difficult. I still use the first one I built many years ago and it is about as simple as it gets. Poplar board used to span the presto pot and the face mount gear motor bolted on. I found a piece of galvanized steel and cut a stir paddle and bent into the poor design below. Under a 100 bucks (probably 75) for the stirring assembly. As pictured It worked just fine and kept glitter suspended but did switch out to a 4 bladed padd
  14. Wasn't saying it was a scam just I doubt it is much more than a repackaged product. I have come across the product on a few forums and some of the claims made by users should be highlighted on the site as it would really separate it from other similar products. However no real attempt has been made. I have no doubt the product works. I have used Etex Light, Devcon, Bob Smith, and several DIY bar top epoxies with out much issue either (only make bass baits). I wouldn't hesitate to try it.
  15. There are no real claims on their "site" for a reason. Much of what one hears regarding the product are just guys making claims. Their site isn't really put together that well compared to most businesses/companies would put together. Guarantee if they had tested the product they would clearly have it listed on the site. Also will notice (may have overlooked it) that no SDS is on the site for the product. I think it is more likely a guy found a way to make some supplemental income and it is just a repackaged product with a markup. Perhaps something from Specialty Resin. https
  16. Travis

    Screw Eyes

    Better safe than sorry. I never have known anyone to have any issues with it in regards to reactions and essentially is like using Devcon or similar product. I would imagine for most of us inactivity and diet choices are far more detrimental to our health. To be honest for what you are wanting to do imagine thinning some Devcon and brushing it on the area would be all that is needed.
  17. Travis

    Screw Eyes

    JB Weld? Maybe a few farmers and backyard mechanics that would not share your concern. I had one Grandfather that claimed that it made his pants last a few years longer as it held all the fibers together.
  18. Amazing how efficiency picks up when using 18 molds.
  19. Molds are really the limiting factor starting out in my opinion. Everything else is secondary and really won't increase production by any meaningful amount in my experiences.
  20. If you are talking about the 150 buck attachment...there are much better/cheaper options available.
  21. All are commercially available deep diving plugs (20 plus any less isn't deep ). Different designs and lip configurations.
  22. I typically try and to get as close to neutral buoyancy but still want it to rise. The more weight the more depth you can squeezer out of the same bait size/profile. It is counterproductive to constantly have a force in the opposite direction of where you are wanting to go. You have to think as a lure as a bobber/life jacket.
  23. Definitely a crank that you should go out and buy a few true deep divers and study and more importantly fish them. Many guys don't have the equipment to really fish deep diving cranks. Crews Little John DD, Rapala DT 20, Norman D22, and Brians Deep Bee B24 are ones I would suggest fishing. Each is a little different in design.
  24. Few guys make deep diving cranks. To hit a 20 ft depth looking at probably 2.5 + inch lip and the weight as low as you can get and as forward as possible to still keep the weight in the deepest part of the lure. Typically looking at a bait that is one 1 oz + range. You can add weight to bill if can't move the weight forward but better to redesign the crank in my opinion. Devil is in the details in regard to balance, build quality, and performances. The bait has to start diving when you crank, no time can be lost getting it "started".
  25. I spent a little less than a year working in a lab at a metal and alloy plant while my wife was finishing up her masters wasn't a bad experience at all. My only knock was how dirty a job it was and that every morning when walking out to the car would have the finest "glitter" coating me. My wife used to joke I had been at strip club all night.
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