Jump to content

Travis

TU Member
  • Content Count

    1,469
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    42

Everything posted by Travis

  1. Prior to me pouring no I would not have bought a mixed pack. Several companies would do it from time to time or offer sample packs. To me it seams gimmicky and is targeted towards a very specific demographic. New getting into fishing. I wouldn't think about hitting the water without bags of the same color if fishing soft plastics.
  2. I always wiped it off but find Johnson's paste wax or Mann's Ez Release easier to deal with. I mix thinner typically more like cake or pancake batter. I wan't it to run as it fills in detail better. I don't use and injector very often but mine doesn't lock, just take care and all good.
  3. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/ The people entering are typically customers of the above, who own/operate the site. It is something fun they do for customers or potential customers just like keeping this site up and going. TU real issue if you are concerned with lack of activity, members, etc.. is that it did not change with the times as some members were very keen on this not becoming a video and picture laden site as they didn't wan't some sort of "social media site". Any guesses where most new lure makers get their information, what groups they join, you tube channels, etc... Additionally guys that run those can make a dollar or two and pick up sponsors and free gear so joining and doing stuff on TU not in their best interest typically unless it brings in enough viewers to their sites.
  4. As pointed out can brush on the acetone if needed around the lip then just dip the bait. It also isn't too hard to dip a bait around a lip. I used to dip a lot of foam cranks in the solo cup mixture (virgin lacquer thinner) and had some acrylic/acetone to seal a few baits and never had an issues.
  5. Almost certainly will be cloudy. At the lab amazing all the high dollar enclosures we have that someone decided to clean an area with acetone... I have not made many baits with PVC trim board (few dozen or so) but never really had issues with holes. The few I have I just used a 2 part epoxy wood putty or similar and filled and sanded.
  6. Dip away. The acetone will flash off quickly and will not have any noticeably effect on the bond strength as very little epoxy will be exposed to the acetone in the first place and then only very limited duration as less then 30 seconds. Devcon for example lists acetone compatibility as poor... after 7 days immersion.
  7. It looks like your master would be fine as a two piece based on the picture but angle may be deceiving. The seam will run across the back and belly but master should pop right out. I typically will drive a screw into the exposed half to pull the master out as can easily be patched if needed. Then as Dave pointed out use the soft plastic bait as a master. You can then make one piece molds wit it. Another option for prototype is you can mold with bondo body filler. The mold has a little give before it finally sets but just keep checking the consistency/temp of the mold to demold. I made a lot of crank bait molds that way over the years with no issues.
  8. It appears your tail is rounded. If you mold in POP it will lock the master in place. Based on your picture if you were to mold it as a one piece currently it looks like it would be locked in place as the top of the tail rounds over. So in the bait above I screwed it to acrylic for my base and then built with legos the mold box around it. If I had used POP it would have run around the undercut area created at the tail/base interface and locked the bait it (eye recess and gill also). I molded this one with RTV first (not ideal and tail didn't move near as much as I would like). It is easy to see in the molds how far the RTV surrounded the tail because it was rounded at the top. If I made a two piece mold with the seam running across the back and side could have used POP. Just easy to not look at the master and think about locking it in place on the first few.
  9. With some slight modification can easily make this into a POP mold and results will be really no different than a RTV for something as featureless as a tail. I would also highly recommend making the tail in POP first with tails. You may find out your current design doesn't perform the way you think. It can be a two piece mold.
  10. As Bob mentioned the bait above a weighted hook hanger dead center may work just fine. You may find also that in order to get the equivalent weight you end up with a lot of weight higher up in the bait which some strive for. Others go to the other extreme and want to put weight as low as possible in the lure. It can change things up slightly and can make good bait into a great bait not so good. You can find x rays of some lures on line to show weight placement. This topic comes up ever so often so search the site and might find some really good information over the years. Sometimes may have to dig a little but can be rewarding if you come across it.
  11. I would say most crank bait makers start buy just putting weight directly above the belly hook hanger. Over all this is a "safe" place to put weight in regards to a lure and having it function. You can mess with placing it higher up or lower in the bait and it can change action at that place. In time you will start to play with weight placement more to achieve specific things you want to do with cranks. Making the same bait and changing position about the best way to really learn to be honest. Many of the cranks I make I weight in various places. Most of my shallow baits that I fish in small rock/gravel areas will have weight more towards the nose as I want to get the bait down quickly and dragging/plowing in the gravel. It alters the diving angle to get their quicker to stay in the desired zone longer. I may want a similar nose down style to get down to stumps on creek channel quicker and longer.
  12. Very ironic thinking that custom cranks historically was modifying through weighting commercial baits differently to perform for specific presentations or better. In my opinion learn to weight is the only way to go if you want to be able to build a variety of lures for different presentations and conditions. Most cranks and/or top waters will not function optimally without it as you simply won't be able to get the distribution correctly for it to preform. Drop a dozen different style cranks in a bucket and you will see they all sit with a different attitude. Take the KVD 1.0 in your picture. Have you looked at the weight displacement on it? Part of the way that lure functions will be do its stance in the water and weighting is the key. If you took the weight after the hook hanger in the belly and move it to the weight infront how would that bait perform. Dive quicker, deeper, decreased side to side displacement, quicker shorter movement, etc.. How about we move the weight to the tail, no weight, put all the weight in top/back of the lure.. It all can change the performance of the same bait. You could print it more solid in areas and try to get it balanced correctly but going to be hard to do. Would be easier to print in halves and add weight and glue or print half add weight and continue printing. Or print solid bait and have chamber to drill into and insert weight and seal chamber with epoxy.
  13. You will need to define "break the bank". Personally Iwata HP-SPS. I used cheaper brushes in the past and gladly paid the 150 for better brush and should have sooner. Createx about the cheapest paint I will mess with now. Have sprayed and still do on occasion some of the cheap craft paints thinned just a lot more issues that are best to avoid in comparison to specially designed airbrush paints. You can get buy with cheaper brush. I painted cranks almost 30 years ago in my dorm room with a cheap testors plastic airbrush and screw in compressed air. Results came out fine but spent a lot more time doing so and was far less enjoyable.
  14. I wouldn't think that there is but could be wrong.
  15. For just trying it out Hobby lobby or Michaels's have it. Take a coupon and not too bad. It almost always on the lower density range from my experiences. I believe I ordered from National balsa in the past.
  16. Travis

    vise question

    Same here I really see no need for a vise for carving lures then again I don't see a chisel as being the best tool for the task either (even though several seam to pick it up from a youtuber). A sharp tool and a controlled hand result in little effort needed to peel away wood in clean shavings with a knife. The other issue is sharp. With a chisel if you can't cut end grain of pine and end up with a shiny/waxy cut you aren't sharp. Should be able to get clean cut with no crushing of the fibers. If it crumbles away need to go back and sharpen. Learn to sharpen your tools and it gets much easier...from my past experiences many guys sharp ins't. If wanting to use a chisel and vise I would make some wood jaws like the plastic ones linked above and glue some magnets in to hold in place.
  17. I don't tape off lips and don't wipe them. You will get a feel of how much epoxy you will need. Typically squeeze out will be at the back of the lip slot on the edges. Just have a toothpick handy and you and dab/twirl the excess away. Helps to have the bait in a vertical position. The topcoat will blend in just fine. I clean hook hangers after it has dried. Typically a small drill bit or cheap diamond burr in a dremel.
  18. Many wood workers liked to use it for cherry, walnut, or mahogany because the light amber/yellow color accentuated the finish. So unless Mohawk reformulated it...I would say a no go. Formerly Behlens Rock Hard Table Top Finish. Maybe Waterlox Crystal Clear but have no experience with it.
  19. Welcome Daniel. Don't frequent Bass Resource but do manage to end up on a few different sites (Craftsman on the lake ). Great hobby to get into and especially when you are already have a shop with all the tools and the experience to go along with it. A lot of information on the site and plenty of guys that have built a lure or two.......
  20. Travis

    line tie in bill

    Just personal preference. Twisting the wire isn't an issue for this lip style (typically don't use brass).
  21. If going to do multiple style baits then drilling multiple holes the way to go. Just make a simple grid layout and no need to glue in the dowels. When not used for larger baits can just hold normal baits vertically/horizontally for use. A 1 inch layout manages to cover most needs and you can go diagonal as well if needed for some baits. Can also arrange baits in row and make a pass back and forth and highlight the belly on all the lures, back etc.. when painting comes in handy for a lot of different things if doing smaller numbers. It is good for glue up for multiple jointed baits. Alligator clip the nose then, hinge between first/second segment, stick a tooth pick in the back of second segment and hold with alligator clip and wait for glue to dry.
  22. MDF blocks have been what I have been using in the past. Always seams to have some 3/4 scrap in the shop. Several of the videos out there show similar set up so I figured no need to change.
  23. 1k refers to the product does not need any other component to harden. 2k needs a catalyst, hardner, or activator to set.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top