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Everything posted by Travis

  1. What is the intended use? I buy mine at Dollar Tree. 2 bottles (0.28 oz total) for 1 dollar. So a little over 7 bucks for 2 oz. Don' t have to worry about bulk going bad once opened. The bottles don't clog or dry up easily. More controlled dispensing. Easily can coat a few balsa bass cranks, glue line ties, etc...
  2. They are sold under various "brands".. Strnek. They should be avoided. The reported specks (guarantee reported higher than actual) are 17 psi and 6 L/min. Of the two the 6L/min is what one needs to pay attention to. The 6L/min is equivalent to 0.2 cfm. They typical airbrush needs minimally around 0.3 cfm to properly atomize the paint and deliver the paint. Gravity feed brushes are more likely to perform better at lower cfm than siphon feed since gravity is working with you.
  3. It is the compressor. I imagine the amazon page reads: Just plug it in and the user will get "amazing professional results". Included are two adapters so you can fill an air mattress or clean your keyboard, toaster, the possibilities are endless. Act now for a limited time offer and receive the matching anodized ice blue model, just pay shipping.
  4. No. 15 and 14. You are correct in that a new airbrush should have functioned properly... that is when you should have called for help. Nine months later after chucking it against a wall? Micheal's has a lot of coupons now. one is 60% off one item. Drive over to Keller and buy another one. I looked at one earlier this week thinking I might see about it for spraying finishes on small woodworking projects.
  5. Iwata in my opinion about the best brush I have used. No major differences between them just subtle things in regards to quality. I have used the Iwata Eclipse HP-SBS autographics brush for years with no problems at all. Neo is budget friendly option so going to likely come across lemons more frequently. I am in agreement with Bob and likely defective brush from the get go or also likely just need to be tweaked out of the box. If the brush was leaking air first place to look was the valve body set and valve body o-ring. May have been as simple as a cracked o ring. Trigger sticking even after cleaning likely needed a little airbrush lube or possible to clean up some flash from the casting so it was freely moving. If paint not spraying could be a few issues. Paint too thick, not enough pressure due to escaping air to function properly, small bit of dried paint clogging nozzle, etc.. Difficult to paint with brush not functioning right especially if not enough time has been spent painting to know what to trouble shoot.
  6. Simply allows you to dilute the color without thinning. It will be the same mixture as their illustration line of paints just with no pigment. Allows for better control and smooth gradient color transitions.
  7. Travis

    any one!

    Most of the stuff I turn on the lathe ends up being for others as so many that didn't fish much recall top waters from their parents or grandparents. I don't sell any lures anymore so mainly personal use. I have a lot of tackle so tend to hold back on some designs as already have more than I will use in the next 40 + years.
  8. Travis

    any one!

    Mainly make shallow cranks and top waters as much of my fishing now ends up being wading shallow creeks. Do make a few deeper diving cranks also but just don't fish near what I used to. I also like to make wooden sammy style top waters. I have turned several prop baits and poppers also. I use basswood (99.9% of the lures) then balsa, big tooth aspen, and paulowina.
  9. Travis

    any one!

    I wouldn't judge what is being done based on what gets posted. It will skew your view. I make almost all my baits from wood.
  10. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    Since you stated by the time you finish I doubt you have any issues in regards to proper cure and resulting performance of your top coat. I have a lot of plastic cups deform when residual epoxy is left to cure.
  11. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    Epoxy curing is exothermic reaction (gives off heat). If you mix enough volume and have sufficient depth it can heat up to surprisingly warm temperatures. Hot enough to melt some plastics and cause burns. Depending on volume/mass, far more than what we use for lures, curing epoxy can reach temperatures in excess of 350 °F. Typically we mix volumes in containers that result in thin layers. The thin layer increases surface area and allows to cool. As the layer gets thicker it gets hotter as heat can't dissipate and the hotter it gets the faster the curing reaction progresses and further increases heat.
  12. All boils down to what you want in a mold and the time you want to put into it. Guys use methods and techniques that I found to be poor for various reasons and they in return likely have negatives against my favorite thinned epoxy. I am not for sure if any technique that is mentioned on this site I have not used over the past 15 or so years when I have made molds. I switched out to aluminum molds for many of the lures that are essentially knock offs. Of the molds I kept (maybe 100) majority ended up being Durham's and epoxy coated. Few are high heat paint and maybe a dozen RTV. Saturate with PAM, Vegetable, etc... oils.... over time sticky molds, molds go rancid and smell, and need to clean the mold as always a "goop" built up no mine that I did that way. Cleaning molds never a good thing. Modge Podge.... peeled and finish poor. Overall I think it is just too thick of a product even with thinning and it seams to maintain a level of tackiness as we have non lure making things coated in modge podge that will stick to the surface of something if left sitting without moving or worse of a problem with heat. Elmers thinned... had it go soft a few times and peeled from some cavities. Think it is easy to leave brush strokes even in thinned stuff. Slower set time so need to apply thin. Slow flash times as thinned typically with water and not a fan of adding water to POP molds. Can end up with mold growing under the finish but doesn't effect the mold. High heat enamel..it wore and gives less additional strength to fine details or edges. Very quick however in drying time but with the need for multiple thin misting coats to slowly build up adds more. If you are heavy handed and impatient not the best method. Titebond.... mixed in to mix stronger mold finish pretty good. Thinned and coated finish better but some loss of crispness. Superglue... sets up fast but finish can be tricky if you plan on building up a glass like finish. If just coating to let it soak in great but finish not as smooth as building it up. I do use it to strengthen areas fine raised details initially as no pressure/brushing needed just touch the drop and it wicks in. Epoxy thinned. I thin to water like consistency and apply with a small brush. First several or more coats go on very quick and it wicks right in like the super glue. Just you can apply it much quicker. The dryness of the mold plays a huge factor in how many coats it takes. Wetter molds don't get as much penetration. Dryer is better. I probably end up doing a dozen coats consecutively. It flashes off in time you can go back and start the first cavity so no long weight times. I use Devcon 5 minute for this and just leave it to the next day typically but have poured after sealing a few times to test out. With all the paint/glue methods you can get really good baits just some a little more tricky than others. For two piece I didn't like paints as it starts to effect the joining of the two halves. Elmers and Titebond and Modge podge just seam to build up too thick and tendency to pool slightly in deeper cavities. Go to brush it out and easy to steak. Titebond mixed into the mold wasn't too bad in the ones I made. Bondo body filler, easy quick method to make molds but it does shrink and is soft and doesn't do well with heat/clamping. Shrinking can be nice if you want to go smaller bait. One of the first time I used it was purely because needed baits quick. I made a mold, and started copying that mold, the next mold, etc... I made I believe 8 total molds and the final mold gave baits about 20% smaller. Bondo fiberglass good but need to incorporate backing and rigidity from my experiences as if you do any long pouring sessions have had then start to curl. Picks up detail very well. I ended adding support rods during molding and eventually just poured thicker and increased margins around cavities. But starts to add up in costs if you are making many molds. Least amount of experience with however. RTV silicone, cost the big negative and in time they start to lose their luster. Takes a long time for larger pours to cool and poor heat transfer. Picks up detail very well. POP cheapest material and not the best strength but can be improved with glue/epoxy coating methods. Some loss of detail in molding but if you take your time can get good detail. Durhams Rock Puddy not too expensive but more than POP. Tougher than POP but very similar overall in handling and product. Picks up detail slightly better from my experience. Dental plasters.. worked well but didn't find much better results than one can get with Durham's or even POP. Bottom line do what you want that gets you baits that you are satisfied with.
  13. Travis

    epoxy mixing cup

    The way of forums.... on open ended questions understandable specific questions well guys read/interpret questions in different ways or participate for different reasons. He did find the specific double silicone bowl he was looking for but he had started two threads. The important thing is you all missed the real issue DEVCON or NOT ???
  14. I have had some spooks that were modified with some shot in the main body cavity. Never found it any better. I had some older spooks and they were weighted with a cylindrical lead plug in the tail on those. Most of the modern spooks have a large steel ball in the tail end that is either held in place or molded into a larger cavity in the tail section.
  15. As mentioned no real need for weight transfer as you can cast a spook as further than you need most of the times. They are also tail weighted so no need to transfer weight on the cast. It also isn't a crank bait that needs the weight transferred forward to achieve proper action. Just the opposite in fact as if the weight shifts towards the mid section as action is killed. Even if you place a weight transfer system in a spook the walking action puts the weight in tail. No way to move it forward unless you nose weight the lure so when paused it shift nose down.
  16. McMaster Carr is where I end up ordering some typically (along with other odds and ends). A 12 x 12 sheet of 1/16th with run just under 5 bucks.
  17. Everyone is going to tackle it a little different... Createx Pearl white or platinum, transparent chartreuse, pearl black, peal blue, and Folk Art peridot is what I would likely use starting out. Fairly certain i would end up very close with those colors. Can mix in highlight power to flat colors also. Much will boil down to how comfortable you are with a brush and capabilities.
  18. Personally I don't get too hung up on the anti caking agents. Griding/flouring salt caused much more issues in regards to dulling the baits. I believe the Kosher salt I used was Diamond Crystal Kosher that I ended up getting at a health food place. They had a few others but I was only trying the Kosher to see how it differs from the usual salts I had used in the past. Not worth paying more from my experience. The glass beads will give the clearest baits. I would stick with typical no 8 (70 to 100) bead. If you can find small sample packs of 7 or 6 to try out. Just make sure getting bead and not abrasive.
  19. Glass beads can be a very satisfactory way to go also. Plenty of threads here on the subject. You get increased clarity with them, no storage issues, and a bait that is much stronger. It can damage and injector but from most accounts besides replacing an o-ring good go go for years. I forget who had a video (That Guy Skimpy?) comparing salt bait and glass bead bait durability. The glass bead senko will stretch some and doesn't break near as easy as a salt bait.
  20. A few things going on in regards to light transmission and suspension of salt. First all these salts are the same as in NaCl. Where they differ is purity/additives. Salt by it very nature is problematic in that it picks up water. NaCl is used to calibrate some instruments that measure water uptake based on its very well studied water adsorption. So unless you store your salt properly and dry it you are adding some water to your plastic during the heating process. Adding some cloudiness to the end product if not all removed (not a big issue as often gets boiled off during heating). Additionally to counteract salts water loving tendencies manufactures place anti caking agents in it to avoid it turning into a brick (and iodized typically). So you have impurities playing a role in regards light transmission. Other issues that cause cloudiness are result of tackling the suspension issue.. The salt crystal shape plays a role in suspension. Table salt and others are cubodial. The shape results in crystals that don't suspend readily. So guys grind it to make the particles smaller but in doing so exponentially increase the surface area and further cause issues with transparency (lack of). Sort of like fill a glass with ice and pour a margarita mix over it versus putting that same ratio in your blender. You also are adding defects in the crystal in the process. Think of safety glass: pre and after hitting it with a hammer. Kosher, Maldon, and other salts prized by chefs are different in shape. Kosher typically is forced into a flat shape under pressure to form flakes. So take two cubes the same size/mass. Take the second cube and compress it flat. Drop them in a liquid guess which one hits the bottom first. The shapes vary in regards to displacement. The flat shape will displace more plastic and will sink slower than the cube and is the reason Kosher salts suspend better in comparison to table (cubodial) salt. Cargill uses a process called Alberger process to make some of their salts. It results in concaved plate/flake. These salts Kosher, maldon, the Cargill select products are typically larger particle size to boot so often get the best of both worlds... larger crystals (less defects and less surface area) with a shape but do to the shape suspend better than cubes. Additionally they often don't have anticaking agents.
  21. I don't have a phone.... Absolutely hate them.
  22. Several acrylics available. Green Stuff World has a Chameleon line (have not tried it). But not too expensive through amazon. Folk Art has a line of metallic color changing. I have overall had good results with folk art once thinned. I never thinned much without either water or 4012 but tried Windex one time and had Folk Art metallic (some) gum up. I have used Jacquard powder pigments mixed in paints or clear also with no issues. https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Pearl-Powder-Pigments-32-Color/dp/B000BGSZFU You can also find various powders on ebay or online used for automotive that have fine pigments for airbrushing. Haven't tried any but the candy line by Createx Air has some interesting colors. Had some last week while at Hobby Lobby but put it back since didn't have the coupon.
  23. You can try. It all comes down to pigment size. Airbrush paints are manufactured to have very fine pigment for ease in spraying. I would thin with 4012. If it clogs your brush you can try straining any larger particle and with pantyhose or coffee filter, etc... I had some cheap hobby paint and manged to strain it. Really boils down to how much time do you want to spend when their are already products out there.
  24. I would likely go with the Rikon 10" Bandsaw 305 model. But over your price range at 260. https://www.rikontools.com/product/10-305 Even has a little resaw capacity if you break down your own lumber. Will handle poplar, basswood, PVC, etc... all well. Get a few solid blades and good to go. Timberwolf and Woodslicer are fairly inexpensive and good bang for the buck blades. Depending on your area easy to get used band saws on craigslist for good price. May need change out guide bearings/blocks, etc... but easy enough. I would not get a scroll saw personally as not ideal for cutting lips. I would rather use tin shears and then take it the belt sander than the scroll saw. I have a cheap small delta bandsaw (lots of plastic, lots of flex, lots of cast aluminum that breaks). That does pretty well that I did various odds and ends to get functioning. It sits in the corner of my workshop and is set up with an 1/8 inch blade. I also have a 14 inch bandsaw that gets the most use in my shop. Scroll saw sits under a bench and gets pulled out for Christmas ornaments or such.
  25. Agree Wayne. Outside of shallow water cranks the bulk of the users will be fishing from a boat. On the reservoirs I fished always do nothing gravel banks and points. Tie a bait on and in a few casts know the bait hits 12 ft on x lb line. Now I know I can drop down to x lb line and gain a foot or go heavier and lose a foot. If you are kneel and reel guy you can tack on some more if you want but not something I want to do on a regular basis. Same token if you have electronics should be able to find weed beds, etc.. at depths and fish those with the baits and find out depth in the same manner. Have done that off and on but typically the reservoirs I fished didn't have deep water beds based on turbidity but then you just targeted brush piles. Also books and charts available for many bass lures regarding depth. I would imagine the same true for musky/pike stuff. Should be able to map over you baits in regards to physical size and lip angle/size and get a fairly close guess to depth to start off. https://www.amazon.com/Precision-Casting-Comprehensive-Crankbait-Running/dp/0966301730 In regards to actual devices several already out there for trolling.. Could buy one of those and hit the deep water. If for kicks and just want to design your own the arduino boards seam to always have those making depth sensor set ups but typically large units. I haven't looked in a while what is being done. Fisheries biologists have used such devices to follow fish movements. They have temperature and depth inserts that are small but while cost prohibitive may be something to look if wanting to design your own. Lots of small pressure sensors out there that can be used to determine depth also.
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