Travis

Nice fish and truely a fish of a lifetime. Something we all hope to do but most never get a chance. WHY did he not have his license!!! States have made it so easy and many states have some harsh penalties for repeat offenders (jail, loss of fishing and hunting license, potential loss of vehicles, boats, rods, etc.). I seriously doubt the fish will count based on two if not three of these reasons: 1. Fish must be taken by angling in New York State waters in accordance with New York State fishing regulations. 2. Fish entered in the Annual Award and State Record categories must be weighed on a certified scale by the owner of the scale or an employee, and must be witnessed by at least one other person. 3. Fish submitted as a potential State Record entry must be identified by a DEC biologist or a designee. Fishing without a license would disqualify the record because he was not fishing in accordance with New York State regulations. The digital scales and not being certified would be the second strike. And the game warden might not be a DEC biologist and designee.

I think the problem is that many of us believe lure making is a learned skill. It something that an individual learns by doing, bottom line. Be leary of anyone that has it figured without spending the time in the shop. Some learn quicker than others, many make cranks in no time and will even sell some but these are the same guys that 5 years from now won't be around because they never really lurned how to make a solid lure. Many are willing to help guide someone down the right direction but usually only when someone seems to have attempted to do so first and doesn't come off as some guy wanting to make a quick buck on Ebay selling a "custom" lure. We were all newbies at some point you bet, but many of spend most of our time out in the shop making lures and testing them out to find out how bad we screwed up, a huge part of it is figuring it out on your own. If one won't spend the time in the shop at least take the time to scroll thru the posts. I can't count the hours I spent reading through posts. The I want it now concept doesn't fly with many guys. Honestly most have spilt their guts on the easy stuff devcon, poly, probinate, bills, wood, sealers, airbrush, etc.... all one has to do is read a little.

My kids have been on various medications for asthma since essentially birth. We used Singular with two of our children for 2 years with no ill effects. Individuals just need to be aware of possible side effects and drug interactions of their medicines. Seems simple but most don't and aren't concerned. Take the time to talk with the pharmacist (doctors aren't really into the drug interatction thing or side effects).

I would imagine that the cap really doensn't seal. If it isn't teflon lined then it is going to escape. You could probably find a cap and place a teflon cap liner in it so you could seal it when not in use. I think someone said it was MEK based so not as volatile as some organics but still would evaporate readily.

"Kill spots" are anlgers representation of things we see on bait fish. This may seem sort of simple but in fact holds the main purpose. The "kill spot" is truely a false eye spot and draws attention from the predator. The false eye spot was evolved to cause confusion in predators. Many fish have false eye spots located near the caudal fin region. The basic premise is two fold. One the predator strikes at the tail thinking they are attacking the head region and the little fish get to live another day with a torn up fin and missing a few scales. Or the predator becomes confused and can't make and effective strike do to undecisiveness on where to aim the strike. In theory a predator will attemt to strike towards the head. The fish is oriented in the correct position to swallow (those fin rays fold back easily go the other direction and well not so great) and more likely to catch the fish if you strike at the head because generally that is the direction they prey tries to escape. How many fish jet backwards? In theory we all should put kill spots dead center of cranks to increase the likely hood of getting the most amount of hooks in ones mouth. But honestly don't think that it matters as much. I am sure many will swear by them.

All depends on what one believes their time is worth and what the goal is. They all make money just some more than others. Some guys just want to make enough to support a hobby others are out to make money.

Depending on where you are pouring you may be able to set up a "hood". I would recommend a hood set up at all possible. Properly designed it will end up easier, more comfortable and cheaper in the long run. The respirators are great but if used properly you need to change out the cannisters on a regular basis dependent upon usuage. Check out North Safety or similar place at their respirators. You can contact them for specific requirements. Some people also encounter difficulties with respirators. Proper fit testing is also necessary. http://www.research.northwestern.edu/ors/labsafe/hoods/index.htm#Conventional%20hood

I find no difference between sanded and non sanded bills. On some I sand to get the matte finish others I don't. Sort of what ever strikes me at the moment.

Not going to find anyone disagree that RTV gives a better detailed mold and if not for the price many would use it instead of POP or durhams. The catch is that many lures don't need RTV for the detail. I have Durhams rock puddy molds that I have poured thousands of lures in that were coated once in devcon and still produce a bait just as nice as day one. A sluggo style bait for example. A properly done POP or Durhams Rock puddy will give just as good results as an RTV and when it comes to molding prototypes a huge waste of money to use RTV until the bait is all worked out.

I would add the scale detail before hardening in the oven. You can use a dowel, pencil, whatever you want to make a scale like pattern. You can get creative on how to make the scales. I would over do the scales so that all the detail is picked up once you coat the pop mold.

Urban Legends Reference Pages: Australian Guns Stats I know many will chime in of course the article is proganda that the other side uses to dispell the truth. Ok I own guns, have always owned guns and am completely against gun control. However the fear tatics used by both sides to support the claims is horrendous. Many things have changed since the good ole' days and at some point many will have to face the fact that the fear and paranoia, both reality and percieved, used during the cold war no longer exists. Unfortunately this fear has molded many previous generations and continues on. Do any of us truely believe that the USA will turn on its citizens and exterminate us? Do you believe that another country will take us over (if we don't have guns) and then exterminate us?

Looks like you are off to a good start with the masters. Should be a good starting point for some lures. Now the goby needs a little work, to be honest, but is a good first effort and shows you picked up on some of the fin detail. I would refer back to some photos. As is you have a nice representation of a killifish. The body shape is off. Do a search for round goby photos. I placed emphasis on the head on my goby representation. 1354046 - round goby, Neogobius melanostomus (Perciformes: Gobiidae) @ Forestry Images http://eoutdoorventure.com/images/%5CGoby%20MNRPic.jpg

I always say focus on the big details. Anyone should think of a few things when they think goby and these are the details you need to emphasis. Scales, etc... are nice but will be lost in my opinion because of the gobies main features in the head. RTV can be nice if a lot of undercuts and design elements to work as locks once a bait is cast. Where is the pic?

Glad to here you got the bait worked out. Always great to figure out a lures problems. As far as other tackle stores in Lafayette/West Lafayette it is slim. All you major retailers are poor at best. Used to be a guy on Kossuth that had a tackle store but I would imagine it went under judging by the few times I went in. ArrowsIII and Tackle Too has some tackle but I wasn't too impressed and at one time Walker's carried a very, very limited supply but that was when they were on Earl and I don't recall seeing anything at the "new" place.

Yep same shopping center plenty of stuff in the fly tying isle. There was a fly shop also in downtown Lafayette but I can't remember what street it was on or if it is still opened. I don't remember seeing it lately.

Sunfish have a laterally compressed body form. I would look into possibly going towards a jointed crankbait approach to "save" this lure after trying to trouble shoot some issues. If it doesn't work still would be a nice display piece. You had mentioned what other woods. I use basswood mainly, some paulownia, and balsa at times. Not really any good balsa to be found locally but you can head to Hobby Lobby to see their selection (more than Michael's). Basswood can be found at both but they want a premium for it.

I think several issues may be hampering you here. As mentioned hte dorsal and caudal fins may be acting as rudders and helping to stablilze the lure. After looking more closely at you're lure design it has many elements similar to a hydrodynamic keels in sail boats specifically a bulb keel and would possibly be adding additional stabilty to the lure. Instead of combating the lateral force associated with the sail it wold be combating any possible "swimming" efforts. I would put this one up on the shelf and repeat and go as simple as possible on the next one, no paint, just a few coats of poly or something so it can be reworked as needed. Get the action down and then finish it out.

Definitely go with a gallon of plastic. I forgot how much plastic it too to pour them that size. I have a mold I made to pour a similar bait except with a tail and it goes thru the plastic quick. I went ahead and used durhams rock puddy but if you can get them done in aluminum then go for it.

Detail definely sells lures I could't agree more. I just think if details were the real difference then all the chinese knock off cranks would be the hottest baits out there. Photo baits would dominate, etc..

Fancy paint schemes/details are for anglers in my opinion but then I take the approach that a fish isn't (not always I am afraid) the smartest thing on the lake that day. Detailed paint schemes give anglers the ultimate why a fish didn't bite my lure excuse. Anglers have to defend paint scheme or except the fact that it was their inferior skills. Now usually someone will chuck in "it gives them confidence" and well if you need that crutch then take it. Confidence never caught a fish and never will. Developement of ones skills and understanding of ones target species catches fish. Paint baits and add as much detail to make yourself and others happy but I don't think it makes much difference to the fish unless it is the first full moon, after the first mayfly hatch, during power generation on a reservoir then of course purple ghost shad will slay them (as long as coffee scent is sprayed on the bait first).

I would be looking at the fiberglass resin as the main culprit. Since you mentioned the bait was soft we know a reaction has occured and with most "foams" solvents are going to be your culprit. I will assume youre bait was sealed by the fiberglass resin so the rustoleum product would have no effect. I always stay away from solvent (non water based) products with foamies or take the time (gulp slow down on making a bait) to make sure that it is really dry. You might be surprised to see how long it can take to really dry some products especially when we start to layer. Take a look at the organic solvents contained in the products you used and then look at the compatibility with the 16 lb foam and you will likely find the answer to your problems.

Try it and see how you like it. Many designs over the years have included soft plastic craws, leather, rubber, skirt material, foam claws, etc..... See how you like your design and how it stacks up to similar bait without claws. That is one of the fun parts about making lures trying out new things. Always interesting concept I know the Moonlight and Paw Paw craw was always one of the "old" lures that I thought looked neat. I have a Paw Paw Crawfish but legs and claws are long gone. I believe research articles indicate that bass show stronger predation on clawless craws (last time I collected craws I did to!!). I think berkley scientists came to the same conclussion when trying to design a super craw. I think they were disappointed to find a boring hunk of plastic elicited the most strikes. I did have a paper somewhere that suggested that it was also dependent upon size of the bass with larger bass being less intimidated but haven't been able to locate it. I like the skirt concept or other permanent styles better. As much as I get cranks snagged temporarily on stuff soft pastics would be a constant reattachment issue. I have only messed with a few and most of my concerns were with the action of the crank being deadened, but am sure could be worked around. I had a guy want a craw done like the one below with foamy claws so they would rise. Not for sure what would happen to the action.

Two piece is always doable. I am sure the tail is thick enough that one could pour in POP or RTV if one was so inclined. I pour some magnum grubs with large tails in two piece RTV molds with no problem.

I would recommend just making a plaster of paris, durham's rock puddy, etc... mold of these style baits. Easy and simple and the detail usually is large enough to pick up no problem.

After positioning my thru wire it doesn't move. I then fill one half of the mold and then place the second half of the mold making sure the "keys" match up. At this point I turn the mold upright and lightly clamp. The foam of course settles to the bottom and then will expand filling the void.