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Mr B

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Everything posted by Mr B

  1. Matt gave some very good explainations. As rodtrader said do as much searching/studying on rodbuilding.org as possible. Also get Tom Kirkmans book "Rodbuilding Guide".
  2. Try to do a search of "Shakey Head" on the site. There has been a huge amount of info posted here lately. Mr B
  3. You will want to bend the end of your wire past the wire arm that it butts up against. Then pull it back to lay flush against the arm. That way it will be pushing against the arm not just bent up to it. Mr B
  4. Mr B

    Stamina Question

    Personally, I have never had a problem w/ slow shipping w/ Stamina. They are pretty good with shipping and in-stock goods. IMO Mr B
  5. Just my 2c. I have been pouring lead for 18 years and have never seen the wire form repel lead. However I'm not saying that it cant happen. Mr B
  6. When you removed the head from the mold it was still very hot. You probably grabbed it by the hook or the wire. When this was done the lead was still not completely hard and widened the hole around them. Try to let them sit for a couple more seconds in the open mold before removing them. Mr B
  7. I use parafin wax for my flux. every time I melt a new chunk of lead, dirty or clean it gets a peanut (out of shell) sized piece of wax. Just wait for the flames to go out before pouring. Mr B
  8. Roll up a little ball of aluminum foil and stuff it up in the tube so the end of the weedguard will hit this and the tube will not come all the way down to the head. A stopper if you will. Mr B
  9. I believe there is a Rattle Trap type bait that has been around for years called a Chatter Shad? Mr B
  10. The guys gave you some good info. One thing I noticed from your orignal post, you said "Clevices are for keeping distance between components". The clevis is to hold the front blade and allow it to spin around the wire. You will need to make sure the wire goes through the hole in the clevis on the convex side of the blade first. I hope that made sense. Mr B
  11. Del, I love the expression on your boys face. "WOW Dad" !!!
  12. This 9.3 and 7.5 came the very first day I had my new (to me) Ranger on Lake Sonoma. The second pic is a 9.5 I caught a week later
  13. I too have learned to love the Froghair Round rubber. I also use the regular grade round rubber for buzzbaits. I die living rubber all the time. The orange is usually too bright so I mix a little dark brown RIT dye in some very warm water. It only takes a few seconds to make it burnt orange. It comes out very nice. Rinse it very well and pat dry w/ paper towel. I do this also w/ the fluor red. Mr B
  14. Microtek60, my uncle was a machinest for RCBS for 30 years he was a compitition shooter also. He reloaded all his own bullets. He too told me to add the parafin wax. It acts as a flux and helps everything flow. I have never had any problems after smoking a mold. It has only helped however I dont used water based paints. Before you file any additional vent holes try what cadman said and tilt the mold. Imagine the empty area as an air bubble inside the mold. before pouring in the lead tilt the mold so this area will fill up first and the air pocket will be pushed out. Mr B
  15. Try Durams (sp) watter putty. Similar to plaster. It can be chipped away later if needed. If you use any type of water putty make sure it dries for a couple of days. You dont want any watrer in there when the lead is poured in. Mr B
  16. Owner maked a 30 degree flat eye jig hook w/ the cutting point. Stamina carries them but only in 3/0. Mr B
  17. Mr B

    skirts

    Plop, these are my preferences. Silicone for Spinnerbaits and Chatterbaits because the have nice flash and many color combos. Regular grade round (living) rubber for buzzbaits because it flairs out more than all the others and it helps to slow down the bait. 75%+ of my jigs have the FrogHair round (living) rubber because it breathes the best. I will use silicone on my flip jigs if I want a larger profile and flash. Again, if you hand tie your skirts on, not only will they stay on but the colors will stay where you put them ie: one color on top and another on the bottom. Also the collar will be a fraction of the size of a rubber collar and allow the skirt to flair much more nautral. Mr B
  18. Mr B

    skirts

    Im with loomisman. I buy the layers but I tie on all my skirts.
  19. I prefer EnviroTex. It is already thin and in my opinion it stays Clear longer. More noticable on the White heads. It is a 2 part mixture like Devcon. It can be found at many Craft Stores. Mr B
  20. I use the Poison Tail as a swim jig.
  21. Mr B

    Lure flippers

    Shawn, very cool. I like the mini spinnerbait w/ the double hook.
  22. Mr B

    davey

    Hey Davey, I hand tie all my skirts. Wheather they are Silicone or Living rubber. It helps the skirt flair more and they never slide down. Also if you tie in a contrasting color it will keep it where you put it ie. on top, bottom, sides. Wrap your thread onto the Collar of the jig/Spinnerbait etc. Lay on your skirt pad and put 3 semi tight wraps over it to hold it. Give it a little pull to bite down into the skirt. Keep adding skirts or different colors using this process. When finished pull the thread tight (without cuttng through the skirt) and tie off with a "Tie off loop"-- Use a 3-4" piece of thread, make a loop out of it. Wrap over the loop 3 times. Cut the thread off the bobbin. Place the tag end of your thread wrap through the loop. Now pull the tag end under the 3 wraps using the tie off loop. I hope this made sence. Mr B
  23. Very nice spinner Shawn. Have you thought about attaching a "Hitchiker" to the eye of the hook to keep the grub from sliding down the shank? Just a thought. Mr B
  24. Mr B

    Football Jig

    H2Fishing, do you have a pic of that hook or jig? Mr B
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