Mr B

I use the coil springs as spacer exclusively. I love them. If I am using small blades I just cut the spacer down a little shorter. Mr B

A buddy of mine used Bondo to fill the space for the weed guard on a mold and it worked fine. It mignt be easier to remove later if you needed to. Mr B

I use the same method as Earthworm but I just make the initial tag end of my thread longer and use it to create the tie off loop. Then just cut off both tag ends. Very quick

I know you can use that hook with the "Arkie" head mold. The "Sparkie" hook looks like it has a shorter shank on the "hook eye" arm. The Arkie ia a great, versatile jig. Its one of my best sellers. Mr B

Yes you can mix colors. In fact, if you look at the ProTek watermelon color its just a mix of brown and green. You need to figure out the ratios. Mr B

Can you post a pic of the jig? MR B

The other thing that causes this is when the orignal head is removed from the mold. If you grasp the bait by the wire or the hook and have to wiggle it back and forth to remove it from the mold, the hook or wire will create a cavity around itself before the lead is hardened. Try letting it set a little longer in the open mold before removing it or try not to wiggle the wire or hook so much when removing the head from the mold. Just a thought. Mr B

This might be the one. It says 30 deg but im sure it will work. Looks like it only comes in 3/0 size though. http://www.staminainc.com/hooks/owner/JIG_30.html Mr B

I do ust the Silicone skirts often however most of the guys here want the Frog Hair Living Rubber. Any possibilities of making this stuff? Black Brown Purple Blue Orange Red Mr B

Ya its the Round Frog Hair. Elken, did yours come on the roll or did you buy less than a lb? Was yours kinked / Wrinkled? MR B

Hey guys, just curious. Have any of you ordered the "Frog Hair" living rubber from Liv. Rub Co lately. I ordered 3 -4 lbs a month or so ago. It came on the rolls. When I unroll the brown rubber it is wrinkled like last weeks laundry. Even though it looks smooth on the roll. When its tied on the jig it looks like crap. Has anyone else had this problem??? Mr B

Funny you say that. I receive alot of packages at wok. I have receive 3 over the past year (at different times) that had what seemes to be ATF Fluid poured on the boxes. Someone probably shipped some kind of Solvent and it got spilled on your package. YOu might let Liv. Rub know. They should be able to do a shipping claim and send you more. Mr B

I imagine you could use a piece of spinnerbait wire thats will fit inside the tubing. Put a small 90 deg bend in the end of the wire to hold the weight on. Heat, Dip, let cool and pop off the wire. Mr B

If you think the hooks are the correct size you might also want to try this. Take a thin razor blade, put it at a sharp angle and scrape/slice the face of both side of the mold. Somethimes tiny pieces of lead get on the mold face. They get smashed down and are hard to see. This makes it so the mold does not close all the way. You will get to be able to notice the little smashed lead pieces by the different color they are than the mold face Mr B

I use a small triangular file to open up the wire slots. If you have a drill bit smalll enough that will work great also. I use drill bits to open up the hook slots to accept larger hooks. Mr B

I'll third the vote for the pencil eraser. Use a regular pencil for large dote and the small eraser from an automatic pencil for small ones. Mr B

Hey Bass10, check out the heads at this site. http://www.castind.com/ They mighe have what you need. They might be able to work w/ you on bulk pricing, I dont know I have never used them before. Mr B

I dont know if this is the exact same one but here is the one at Stamina. http://www.staminainc.com/bodies_crankminnow/unpainted_lurebodies.html Mr B

They sell the jigs at the shop by me but I cant remember what they look like. Can you post a pic of the head? Mr B

Hey guys. I have a buddy that wants me to do his favorite pattern on one of my spinnerbaits. The blades I am looking for are painted w/ a pattern similar to "Firetiger" but pearl white instead of orange. The blade is Pearl white w/ Chart and black stripes on the edge of one side. The blades are the ones on the Stanley Super Scales Glitter baits. The color is Chart/Pearl Glimmer. http://www.landbigfish.com/tacklestore/showcase.cfm?PID=478 I have checked Janns, Stamina, Barlows, LandLake, Battlefield.... Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks Mr B

The other option is to use a small triangular file. Use one edge of the file to score a line to take the size wire you need. If you are just using 60-90 lb coated sevenstrand sturgon leader you might be able to just make the file mark on one side of the mold and not have to modify both sides. The guard will be offset a tiny bit but hardley noticable. Mr b

I do the same as Dayooper. I forward the to the spoof@ address and 100% have come back as "phishing" Mr B

Totally cool Riverman. I dig on the boat ride at the end. We'll be headdin up to the Smith in the next month. Mr B

I also have all three molds mentioned and they all have their place. The bullet jig is made for grass. The cone shaped head alowes it to go through grass well. However when fished on rocks it will fall over on its side instead of standing up in a defensive posture, like a crawdad. The suggestion (the arkie) is the most "inbetween" style jig there is. It is the most versatile. It combines features from the football style (wide-standup style head) the bullett jig (forward positioned line tie and weedguard). Which ever style you try Im sure you will love them. There is nothing more satisfying than stickin a lunker on one of your own baits. Well maybe when someone else tells you they stuck one on your bait! Mr B

The weedless Arkie or Snootie are great all around molds. Many Companies make the 60 deg hook for these. The Arkie is very versatile. I flip it, throw it in trees and also rocks. This is a good place to start for weedless jigs. After that you can expand and go into Footballs, weedless footballs, Bullet jigs etc. MR B