Mr B

Truely a work of art. Beautiful. Hard to describe how nice that bait looks. Very Very nice job! MR B

Digger, welcome to the forum. That sounds like a pretty cool tour. Any info you could find on that hook would be great. Thanks MrB

I also use Stamina, Living Rubber Co., even cabelas has some components, not the cheapest though.

Try putting a thin coat of Clear Vinal paint over the eyes befor putting on your E-Tex. This is what I do to keep the eyes from peeling off. The vinal dries quickly and you can be coating w/ E-Tex in an hour or so after applying the vinal. Mr B

I myself dont care weather it is the standard line tie or the flat eye. The so called "Advantage" of the Flat eye is the knot will not slide to the top of the eye or down to the bottom of the eye. Therefor the eye will always be pulled at the same angle during the retrieve keeping the jig in the same position during the retrieve. I personally like the Owner Deepthroat for my 60 degree hooks. They hold plastic trailers better and dont let them slide down the hook because of the bend in the hook. Some of my customers just get caught up in "whats new" and think it will give them the edge. I prefer to throw what I have confidence in. Mr B

My mistake on the price. I was looking at a very old Stamina Catalog. Jigmaster, you have mail. Mr B

Jigmaster, you're correct. That is the head/hook combo. I didnt notce it being less expensive than Stamina though, 3/4oz 5/ $5.30. I would be buying them by the (50) at least, .96c ea. If you have some of these hooks I would love to get some from you or better yet find out where you got them from. Thanks Mr B

Looks to me like you could use just about any weight forward jig mold that takes a 60 degree hook. Infact it looks very much like my 1/4 arkie head. Take a look at the do-it website at jig molds. Im sure you will find something similar or better. Then just add the keeper to the hook eye. Mr B

Elken, thanks for your reply. Ya I have seen those hooks. These guys "Need" the EWG style. They must be a "Special Run" that you have to by 1000s of I guess. Mr B

I use the Gami EWG Trebles. My spinners are for steelhead but theres not much difference. Mr B

This might be the same hook that someone earlier was asking about. I am looking for the hook that is in the Stamina Pro Football head. http://www.staminainc.com/bassjigs/weedlsfootball.html Its a 60 deg. EWG with a flat eye. I have alot of customers who like this head and some companies are using them on their jigs. I just dont want to have to buy pre-poured heads if I can just pour them myself. I dont see these hooks on the Gami website. Mr B

One thing you want to make sure of is to pre-heat the oven to 25-30 deg. over the temp you are going to cure at. The reason why is because after you preheat the oven, then open the door, add 15 to 20 to 30 jig heads now you have let out alot of the heat. Its the preheat stage that ruins most fiberguards. The preheat stage is very high heat coming from the elements. If you preheat to 30 deg over your curing temp, when you close the oven door after loading your jigs on the rack the oven does not have to go into the long, high temp preheat mode. Try this, it works for me. Mr B

Both my X135 and X15MT click loudly. These newer modle Lowrance units do this. My older X75 and X85 didnt. I believe these newer units are more powerful and put out a louder ping. I try not to run both at the same time. When im on the front deck I can hear my rear transducer coming through the drain hole.

I use the pre bent inline spinner wire and put the hook directly in the bottom loop then slide the body parts down the wire to close off the bottom loop. No split ring. I think the split ring sets the hook back a little too far. One thing I do though is make my tie off loop with a black barrel swivel in the loop. Mr B

The #5 Colorado is about as big as I would go on a 3/8oz bait. A blade that size on a bait that weight is a slow roll bait. If you need to speed it up I would go to a 1/2oz bait. When I need a deep slow roll bait I use a 5/8oz bait with a #6 Colorado. If I need to slow it down like in muddy water i go to a 1/2 oz bait w/ a #5 or #6 Colorado or if it is shallow a 3/8oz w/ a #4 or #5. The blade arm should not be too long or too short. Single colorado blade baits should be able to be used as a drop bait also. When you stop the bait the bait should fall straight down perpendicular to to bottom as if it were still running forward. The blade will helicopter directly above the head. If your bait wants to roll it is probably not the right blade/weight combo for that speed. If it wants to roll to one side even at slow speeds bend the arm in the opposite direction. Hope this helps Mr B

I use the same method as Dan T. After bending the loop and putting on the swivel/splitring i bend the wire past the blade arm. Then when you bend the tag end back toward the main arm it will have a good amount of pressure against the main arm. Hope this makes sense. Mr B

I agree w/ Big-D. Tie your skirts on. The collars can dry and crack, the individual skirt stands will get pulled out, and if you tie your skirts with certain colors on the back or belly they will stay that way. Same thing with jigs. Also the skirts wont come off on the hook-set. Mr B

I have been using the Do-It Bullet Bass Jig w/ the 28deg Mustad EWG hook. It comes through the weed very well. The guys buying them from me like them alot. Mr B

I use the Janns also. Works great. I have some Black form another company. Every time I use it it frustrated the hell out of me. It coats way too thick and has little balls of powder in it. All powder paint is not equal. If Janns is using ProTek then I do like the ProteK powder. Mr B

Do-It has a "Bullet Bass Jig" that goes up to 7/8 oz Mr B

You should be able to just threat the skirt onto the hook just like you are putting on a plastic trailer. Then push the collar/skirt over the collar on the jig. Mr B

I have had my palmer hot pot for 15 years. It is still going strong. It has had very heavy use also. I never see my model for sale any more though. It has a 5 lb capacity and it is mounted on a hinge so you tilt it to pour. That way you dont have to use a ladle or pick up the whole melting pot to pour. My uncle was a machinest at RCBS for 25 years. He gave me a Pro Melt years ago and to tell you the truth I have not even used it yet because I like my old one so much. I suppose once I start using it I will never want to go back to my old one. If you are going to be pouring sinkers over 3-4 oz you probly want to get one of the bottom pour furnaces, RCBS, Lee etc. Check out the Stamina and Barlows websites. Mr B

At the time I was just buying large poster board. It comes in different colors and has a glossy side to it. I was using the large paper cutters at PIPs or one of the other printing places. If yoiu need the labeling to be glossy you will have to have it printed and can cost some $$$. You can get the smaller Avery labels and print them yourself in color on your personal printer. Then just stick them to the top of your card. Mr B

What I used to use when I was stapleing 6 jigs per card was an Avery Label sticker sheet. I had the ones that were either 3x4 or 4x4. I cant remember now. They came 6 or 8 per sheet. On you printer options (Tools) I believe, you can put in the Avery Label Model # and it will format the printer for the correct label. I stuck this label, with my info on it to the top of my card and stapeled the jigs/bags below. The shops around here no longer want the multiple jigs on cards. They want them individually packaged. I guess the bags/staples got a little messy. And if someone tore a few off and they did not want to buy them the Store would have to staple them back on themselves. Mr B

I was checking those out, in the 05 Barlows catalog. They do look pretty sweet. Mr B