jig head

I can't find your picture. Apparently I don't know where to look. How would I find the picture? Sounds interesting.

I am using 3/4 oz finesse weights from bass pro to make big in-line spinners. They have a large enough diameter to fit over .051" wire. They are lead, so they may be a little bulkier than what you want. Brian

Thanks for the info. guys. The next time I tear one apart I will try using only oil. Brian

I recently took apart a few of my spinning reels that were a mess, and cleaned them up. I was just wondering what you guys use to clean up all that grease. I just used dish soap, i know there has to be a better way.

Is the original paint powder paint? If not, you could have a bad smell and lots of smoke when you heat it.

Barlow's has 1 lb. containers of pro-tec in their catalog for $24.89. p. 56 stock number 406117.

bassinmass, Try e-mailing stamina. When I wanted a mold they didn't have in there catalog, they got it for me and special ordered the hooks. I would call or e-mail the companies you usually buy from. I'm sure they can get it for you. Brian

I've been using super glue with weed guards, with no problems so far. For me, it seems a lot easier than messing with epoxy. The tip on the tubes makes precise placement easy. I have been using half a guard at a time, so it doesn't completelt fill the hole, and I get to play with the angle. I am looking for the best compromise between weedless and hooking ability. The superglue starts to set up fast enough that I can get the guard where I want it without it moving all over the place. Brian

As far as curing in a toaster oven, I made a simple modification on my toaster oven the other night that made things much easier. Mine has a rack with the bars running from front to back rather than side to side. I took a file and put shallow grooves in each bar aabout every half inch or so. I can now pull the rack out, slide a jig into a slot after it is painted, and not have to worry about them swinging or sliding into each other. It has enough grooves to do maybe 130, which is more than I typically do at a time. It made it a bit easier than just hanging them on the unmodified rack. I don't worry about drips as I very rarely have any dripping anymore and this is the only thing this toaster oven is used for. Brian

thanks for the ideas guys. I know not to get any water in it. I have enough lead in ingots now to last me a good while, as I only pour for my own use, but I need to get them in a workable form at some point. Thanks again. Brian

Hi everyone. I am new to this board, so let me start by saying that it is a great site, I have learned alot and gotten some great ideas reading here already. I have a question for you guys with more experience than me (almost all of you, I'm sure). I pour jig heads, and for the past two years I have been working away at a supply of lead that was left over from the construction of an x-ray room. It is in sheets and very easy to use with my 10 lb. pot. A buddy gave me a some lead in big round ingots, I don't know if it is plumbers lead or what. It is too big for my pot, which I didn't think was a problem. I tried to melt it today to pour into an ingot mold, and it turned out to be a bit frustrating. I have a small 2-burner electric range, and I tried melting it in a pot on this. After an hour and a half I was pretty well convinced that it was not going to work. The bit that did melt in the middle ran to the sides and solidified. So I transferred it to my small propane camping stove, which melted some, but took forever, and never really got hot enough to pour well, it kept hardening in the ladle. All that is to ask, when you guys are melting bulk lead, what do you use as a heat source? Brian