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jwfflipper last won the day on July 15 2015

jwfflipper had the most liked content!

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About jwfflipper

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  • Birthday 11/13/1962

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    Lake Charles La.

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  1. I still visit TU every once in awhile to see what is going on. Skeeter ( Jeff ) and I met years ago when I lived in NC. He and a couple of other guys Rob Cochran ( jawjacker ) James Marshall ( on the line crankbaits ) taught me how to build crankbaits the right way...."Time and Thought and never steal someone else's design. I see to many newbies wanting to know " HOW and NOW " and never putting in the time and effort to learn something that is truly a work of art!! I joined in 2004 when RED was the owner of this site and I have learned from this site also, There are some great people on this site and WE are all BETTER for it!!Yea there is a few little secrets that are out there, it took me 3 years after a lot of looking and calling to find my topcoat but those folks have since went out of business. I do wish all of you great success with building baits Jeff RiverValleyCrankbaits
  2. jwfflipper

    Dick Nite

    Does anyone know if he is still around? He has Fishermans Lure Coat. It's pretty expensive per gallon but I need to get something that is as good as the product I have been using but the company has closed it's doors. Jeff
  3. Hey Ben how have you been my friend? Glad to see you back on here!!
  4. I was told once if I didn't know what I wanted a bait to do I would never get the results I wanted. When I started in 2004 I wanted a balsa flatside crankbait that performed like a Cotton Cordell Big O (plastic bait) I had to understand what the bait was doing at a high and low speed retrieve and how it reacted when running into objects. It took many prototypes to get what I was wanting. Anyone can take a piece of wood and put a lip in it and it'll catch a bass but to get the full effects of a bait you have to understand what you want, example the Jerry Lohr crankbaits you mentioned, and it's not what you think. I have many of his prototypes and learned what they do and why from studying them and the origin of the Le Bo plug which the Lohr crankbaits derived from. Like BobP said there is a lot of little things that go into making a crankbait
  5. it is pad printing. talked to a guy awhile back about getting one, decided not to get one. Just didn't have the money to get one.
  6. best way is the brush. Tried the glove thing years ago and it wasn't pretty! the epoxy was too thick even when thinned. Don't make it harder than it is. The epoxy sticks to anything it comes in contact with. Jeff
  7. Me personally I wouldn't reuse the brush. You are probably getting old resin in your topcoat from not a complete cleaning of the brush.
  8. good luck!! ordered mine two years ago and still nothing!!
  9. Glad to see you coming along good!! How did the deep divers come out that you showed me on FB?
  10. wrong forum, try hard baits
  11. Well not trying to be a smart arse but try introducing yourself and a little back ground. There is a search function you can look through and get a lot of answers and there are a lot of guys that will help and guide if asked properly. there is a member tutorial at the bottom of the forum which is a great help.
  12. you'll have to weigh them to see there is any difference and best advise is to make a few with the different lip material and try them out. If your a bait builder you should always do your R&R on your own and see what best suits your baits.
  13. TYPES OF STAINLESS STEEL The three main types of stainless steels are austenitic, ferritic, and martensitic. These three types of steels are identified by their microstructure or predominant crystal phase. Austenitic: Austenitic steels have austenite as their primary phase (face-centered cubic crystal). These are alloys containing chromium and nickel (sometimes manganese and nitrogen), structured around the Type 302 composition of iron, 18% chromium, and 8% nickel. Austenitic steels are not hardenable by heat treatment. The most familiar stainless steel is probably Type 304, sometimes called T304 or simply 304. Type 304 surgical stainless steel is an austenitic steel containing 18-20% chromium and 8-10% nickel. Ferritic: Ferritic steels have ferrite (body centered cubic crystal) as their main phase. These steels contain iron and chromium, based on the Type 430 composition of 17% chromium. Ferritic steel is less ductile than austenitic steel and is not hardenable by heat treatment. Martensitic: The characteristic orthorhombic martensite microstructure was first observed by German microscopist Adolf Martens around 1890. Martensitic steels are low carbon steels built around the Type 410 composition of iron, 12% chromium, and 0.12% carbon. They may be tempered and hardened. Martensite gives steel great hardness, but it also reduces its toughness and makes it brittle, so few steels are fully hardened. There are also other grades of stainless steels, such as precipitation-hardened, duplex, and cast stainless steels. Stainless steel can be produced in a variety of finishes and textures and can be tinted over a broad spectrum of colors.
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