landor

Maybe you could try the mounting blower motor box on the floor and build another box that's lined with insulation or sound deading foam and place it over the blower motor box. That's what they used to do years ago to deadon the noise level on the old dot matrix printers, don't know how well it worked only saw it in a catalog and they were made out plexiglas. Just a thought. Or you could saved the money you would use to build it and get a set of wireless headphones. Bob

Fatfingers, Here's a couple of links you might be interested in. The paintbooth your building is described pretty good in the video link. Also be sure to check out the rest of his web site. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3903621338367109945&hl=en http://www.fishcarver.com/eds_paint_booth.htm Bob

Hey Rookie Don't just look at the jar of Mayo, it's sorta like a zen thing, you know is the glass half empty or half full. Ya gotta look at the big picture: 1. you get to make some great sandwiches 2. the doctor tells you your cholesterol is high and you have a co-payment that's an easy fix, your gonna need some gauze pads for the airbrush cleaner and your already at the doctor's office and sitting in the little room waiting and waiting and waiting for the doctor to come, amuse yourself by checkiing the cabinets and remember always get more than your co payment, it's an unwritten rule what can I say. 3. the doctor is gonna tell you exercise, get the old heart rate up, get some fresh air. what better way to do all that than going fishing and the excitement of a biggun chasing a lure that you just made and painted. 4. the wife can't get on you about eating right, just tell her you learned your lesson, besides the jars empty now. 5. she can't get on you about fishing, doctor's orders. 6. when she wants you to stay home more no problem. stay home and make some more lures you don't want to waste all the time you've invested making that cheap airbrush cleaner. 7. the doctors visit is tax deductible anyway, the gauze ends being FREE. Hey it's a WIN WIN situation. Hopefully this will move you from THE ROOKIE right on up to THE AMATEUR. Glad I could help Bob

Here's a link for a cheap airbrush cleaner. http://www.airbrush.com/how-to-guide.aspx?content=how-to/howtoDetail&id=194 Be sure to check some of the other howto guides. Bob

Try here http://www.shopmaninc.com/foam.html

Here is a link to a website that might be helpful especially to those that are just starting out in lure building. It gives a lot of general infor on howto make the lures I think it is in Swedish, not sure, thank god it has a lot of pictures:wink:. The size of the lures can be increased or decreased in MS Paint LaPala translated the Japanese on the sheets and they are from top to bottom: body measurement reference image hook & weight position reference image template Thanks LaPala:yay: http://pecalista.rulez.org/FaHal2/JapanFaHal.htm Enjoy, Bob

Here's another. http://www.muskyshop.com/modules/cart/products.php/nav_id/14/page/1/id/1/name/LexanLips Bob

If you have a Michael's craft store you can tell them to give you a 40% discount on any regular priced item and save some money. Bob

Anyone ever used the Paasche Air Eraser? I was wondering if the abrasive spray pattern could be adjusted like a regular airbrushes spray pattern is. If so, I was thinking that a person might be able to get some interesting body textures and carving effects and detail, and the blasting cabinet wouldn't have to be all that big or hard to build.

Artbrush, you wrote a reply about 1 or 2 years ago detailing how to make a 4-part mold and using jewelers wax to make the master, key sets and carving each half so that you end up with 2 empty shells. I have some green jewelers wax (Ferris File-A-Wax) it doesn?t carve very well with a carving knife (a lot of chipping), using carving chisels and small gouges does a lot better as well as using a burning pen with the heat turned way down, and heating small spatulas with an alcohol lamp, a Dremel tool also works. Basically what I am doing is making molds from Durhams Water Putty using generic body shapes carved from wood. Then casting the jewelers wax to become my master blank, pouring several wax blanks and using these wax blanks to experiment with by carving different details in them before deciding on which one or ones to make a mold of using Mold Max 30. As much as a round about way of doing this seems, my reasoning is that it is easier to repair a mistake in wax than in wood, plus the wax can be melted back down and used again. It also eliminates having to cut out wood blanks because of carving mistakes, my carving skills are not all that good. 1. Do any of the other waxes (Ferris Fil-A-Wax Purple or Blue) carve any better with a carving knife? Or what would you recommend? 2. Have you used Alumilite Clear to pressure cast clear bodies or Smooth-on Crystal Clear 202? Any recommendations? 3. Which Smooth-Cast series would you recommend or would one of the Smooth-on Task series be better? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Bob

After lurking for sooo long and reading all the post on this great forum and, a trip to the eye doctor for some reading glasses; and the massive amount of notes I've taken. I guess the only thing left will be a doctors visit for carpal tunel syndrome from clicking all the links and tangent websites I always seem to end up on for lures and luremaking. Now I'm ready to start making crankbaits after all the years of fly tying. I sort of missed the boat several years ago after buying the Hilts Foam Factory for poppers and not buying the crankbait molds that they also sold (so much for hind sight). I must say you guys never cease to amaze me with all of your talent, imagination and willingness to offer assistance to anyone that asks your help. Hopefully I will be able to start returning the favor as much as I am able, in this wonderful hobby. So in closing remember that "No matter where you go, There you are". Bob

I've had luck by putting a small dab of the non-hardening modeling clay on on the hook hangers, being careful to keep it off of the lure body so that it doesn't affect the the painting or clear coating. It pops off with a dull knife and there is no dried clear coat to clean off. It sure beats the old way I did it with melted candle wax to protect the hook eyes on poppers for fly fishing.