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  1. scoop10

    how do you sign baits?

    dampeoples, if you look on the gallery, you'll see some plugs I recently made that were clearcoated with Dick Nites and signed "SM '07" with the pens. Unfortunately, I can't seem to make myself sign them consistently on the same side, so you'll only see two. I believe this is the same type of pen that BobP was referring to. It's a fine art illustration pen. About $2.50 or $3 at any of the craft chains. Because its something called single pigment ink, instead of dye-based ink, it will not fade or smear, even with contact from a polyurethane. The smallest size is actually .20 mm, even though they call it 005. Here's a link:
  2. scoop10

    small shallow divers

    per my usual, eastern cedar, with circuit board lips. Caught nine white bass and a kitty cat about 4 lbs. on one of these the other day.
  3. scoop10

    how do you sign baits?

    I use Pigma Microns, which you can get down to a .005 ultrafine point. No problems with any running using Dick Nite's or Devcon
  4. scoop10

    4" Jointed Swimbait

    that's a pretty bait, Bob. Have you ever done anything on these wake baits? Having read about FLW guys catching some, I'm real curious about when and under what conditions to use these baits.
  5. scoop10

    Mathematical modeling and pure science of lure design

    I'm sorry. I have a hard time believing great new innovations are out there that are going to redefine crankbait design. If it was going to happen, the Japanese would have done it by now. As for creating "hunting" baits, there are custom bait designers on this site that can produce them consistently. That's no new innovation. The reason they don't consistently produce these baits are two-fold: _ One, if they are selling baits, purposely trying to produce "hunting" baits will produce more complaints than sells. Yes, some fishermen understand the value of a bait that performs within that realm of consistent erradicacy. Many do not. _ Two, trying to produce baits that run on a ragged edge, you're inevitably going to produce more that are throw-aways, IMO.
  6. scoop10

    You Live and You Learn

    I would try narrowing the lip, especially from the point where it meets the nose on back (into the body of the bait). From the experimenting that I've done, the more lip material there is at the side of the bait 9 (from nose to eye), the more apt you are to get a bait that will not run true. As Tally implied, the crooked lip probably isn't your only problem, or even THE problem. (If it was, many of Ed Chambers' baits would never run true -- or catch all them hogs.) Having lip material past the nose may be a way to create a bait that hunts, but it's also a way to get one that will be all over the place.
  7. scoop10

    Another Dick Nite Lure Coat ?

    Thanks Dick. I really like the top coat, despite messing it up. I think I can salvage some of what I have. I already tried it on a few more plugs, and actually it still seemed very even, clear, etc. Still, I'll be in contact again soon. Next quart, I'll take your advice about storage, use, etc.
  8. scoop10

    Another Dick Nite Lure Coat ?

    So, after going a few weeks without making any lures, I recently worked up and painted a few only to open up my quart of Dick Nite's lurecoat and discover a nice layer of solid formed across the top. I was able to cut out the layer, but the remaining lure coat is a tad thicker than it was previously. My questions, for anyone who would be so kind: _ Will I be OK continuing to use what I have? _ Did this happen because it was not sealed well enough, or because of the cold temps? Should I be storing this at room temp? (I was storing it in an unheated shed/work room, and we recently had some freezing nights. _ Would I be better off storing the lurecoat in a glass jar?
  9. scoop10

    Posters - FLW mag

    Sorry, the other was Maddox Bay, aka B Kelly
  10. scoop10

    Posters - FLW mag

    Several posters here featured on a photo page of custom painted/made lures in latest edition of FLW mag. Tally, Kellure among them. Know I'm forgetting at least one other, but don't have it here in front of me. Nice pub.
  11. scoop10

    Lucky Craft Auroa gold paint scheme?

    I'm told the Japanese metallic-finish paints have lead in them, and are not sold here. Foiling is about your only option. You can find some info on it with by doing some thread searches. There are also gold leafing sheets (less-than-satisfactory finish, though bright) and leafing pens (not so bright), but foiling is going to produce the best, brightest finish.
  12. scoop10

    First fish on a lure I made

    Last spring, I made two lures of a certain type for the first time. First time out, on first stop of the day, I caught a 12" largemouth and a 5 lber, all in about 15 minutes. I was so pumped, about three cast later, I hit a stump, set the hook and broke my plug off. It only dived to about 3 1/2-4 feet, but the water was so dingy I could never find it. The other lure that I had made like it was in very bright colors, and for most of the rest of the day, the bass wouldn't touch it. But I caught five jacks (pickeral) on that sucker, and finally caught two more bass as the sun hit the treetops and the lower light conditions made it more attractive to the bass. On the very next plug of that type that I made, of course in the color that I lost, I have now caught 9-10 bass and 3-4 jacks.
  13. Clemmy, this probably won't help you much, but my answer is real simple: I fish. And besides catching bass, I catch plenty of jack (chain pickeral) in the spring, and they'll put your baits through a workout.
  14. scoop10

    Dick Nite's clearcoat ?

    Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to see how a few do just dipping and drying. If I have problems, I'll take Dean and Bob's advice.
  15. scoop10

    Dick Nite's clearcoat ?

    So, breaking the Devcon habit, I've done my first baits using Dick Nite's clearcoat. For three baits, I dipped and put on drying wheel, then repeated two more times over the course of a couple of days. On two of the baits, I got a couple of slight ripples. So, right now, I am trying three more baits just dipping and hanging. Question for those who have used this finish or similar products before: Could the rippling have been caused because the drying wheel process actually led to some uneven drying/unneeded movement? Or, could there have been some problem related to how I dipped the baits?