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scoop10

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Everything posted by scoop10

  1. dampeoples, if you look on the gallery, you'll see some plugs I recently made that were clearcoated with Dick Nites and signed "SM '07" with the pens. Unfortunately, I can't seem to make myself sign them consistently on the same side, so you'll only see two. I believe this is the same type of pen that BobP was referring to. It's a fine art illustration pen. About $2.50 or $3 at any of the craft chains. Because its something called single pigment ink, instead of dye-based ink, it will not fade or smear, even with contact from a polyurethane. The smallest size is actually .20 mm, even though they call it 005. Here's a link: http://www.gellyroll.com/products/pens/pigmamicron/pigmamicron.html
  2. scoop10

    small shallow divers

    per my usual, eastern cedar, with circuit board lips. Caught nine white bass and a kitty cat about 4 lbs. on one of these the other day.
  3. I use Pigma Microns, which you can get down to a .005 ultrafine point. No problems with any running using Dick Nite's or Devcon
  4. scoop10

    4" Jointed Swimbait

    that's a pretty bait, Bob. Have you ever done anything on these wake baits? Having read about FLW guys catching some, I'm real curious about when and under what conditions to use these baits.
  5. I'm sorry. I have a hard time believing great new innovations are out there that are going to redefine crankbait design. If it was going to happen, the Japanese would have done it by now. As for creating "hunting" baits, there are custom bait designers on this site that can produce them consistently. That's no new innovation. The reason they don't consistently produce these baits are two-fold: _ One, if they are selling baits, purposely trying to produce "hunting" baits will produce more complaints than sells. Yes, some fishermen understand the value of a bait that performs within that realm of consistent erradicacy. Many do not. _ Two, trying to produce baits that run on a ragged edge, you're inevitably going to produce more that are throw-aways, IMO.
  6. I would try narrowing the lip, especially from the point where it meets the nose on back (into the body of the bait). From the experimenting that I've done, the more lip material there is at the side of the bait 9 (from nose to eye), the more apt you are to get a bait that will not run true. As Tally implied, the crooked lip probably isn't your only problem, or even THE problem. (If it was, many of Ed Chambers' baits would never run true -- or catch all them hogs.) Having lip material past the nose may be a way to create a bait that hunts, but it's also a way to get one that will be all over the place.
  7. Thanks Dick. I really like the top coat, despite messing it up. I think I can salvage some of what I have. I already tried it on a few more plugs, and actually it still seemed very even, clear, etc. Still, I'll be in contact again soon. Next quart, I'll take your advice about storage, use, etc.
  8. So, after going a few weeks without making any lures, I recently worked up and painted a few only to open up my quart of Dick Nite's lurecoat and discover a nice layer of solid formed across the top. I was able to cut out the layer, but the remaining lure coat is a tad thicker than it was previously. My questions, for anyone who would be so kind: _ Will I be OK continuing to use what I have? _ Did this happen because it was not sealed well enough, or because of the cold temps? Should I be storing this at room temp? (I was storing it in an unheated shed/work room, and we recently had some freezing nights. _ Would I be better off storing the lurecoat in a glass jar?
  9. Sorry, the other was Maddox Bay, aka B Kelly
  10. Several posters here featured on a photo page of custom painted/made lures in latest edition of FLW mag. Tally, Kellure among them. Know I'm forgetting at least one other, but don't have it here in front of me. Nice pub.
  11. I'm told the Japanese metallic-finish paints have lead in them, and are not sold here. Foiling is about your only option. You can find some info on it with by doing some thread searches. There are also gold leafing sheets (less-than-satisfactory finish, though bright) and leafing pens (not so bright), but foiling is going to produce the best, brightest finish.
  12. Last spring, I made two lures of a certain type for the first time. First time out, on first stop of the day, I caught a 12" largemouth and a 5 lber, all in about 15 minutes. I was so pumped, about three cast later, I hit a stump, set the hook and broke my plug off. It only dived to about 3 1/2-4 feet, but the water was so dingy I could never find it. The other lure that I had made like it was in very bright colors, and for most of the rest of the day, the bass wouldn't touch it. But I caught five jacks (pickeral) on that sucker, and finally caught two more bass as the sun hit the treetops and the lower light conditions made it more attractive to the bass. On the very next plug of that type that I made, of course in the color that I lost, I have now caught 9-10 bass and 3-4 jacks.
  13. Clemmy, this probably won't help you much, but my answer is real simple: I fish. And besides catching bass, I catch plenty of jack (chain pickeral) in the spring, and they'll put your baits through a workout.
  14. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to see how a few do just dipping and drying. If I have problems, I'll take Dean and Bob's advice.
  15. So, breaking the Devcon habit, I've done my first baits using Dick Nite's clearcoat. For three baits, I dipped and put on drying wheel, then repeated two more times over the course of a couple of days. On two of the baits, I got a couple of slight ripples. So, right now, I am trying three more baits just dipping and hanging. Question for those who have used this finish or similar products before: Could the rippling have been caused because the drying wheel process actually led to some uneven drying/unneeded movement? Or, could there have been some problem related to how I dipped the baits?
  16. don't know that I can help regarding the paint scratching. stainless steel rings don't close back as well as nickel. I suspect you have SS rings.
  17. before I even looked at the bait, I figured you must have lip material extending to the sides of the head. That is definitely what will cause a bait to "hunt," as they say. Getting one to do so while still maintaining a straight general track is the trick.
  18. In just about every pond that I've ever fished, bigger fish will fall for a Rattletrap in late winter. That's not to say that they will bite it every time that you fish. But fishing a pond that isn't heavily pressured, on days in Feburary when the fish are really active (on a warming trend of three days or more), the big ones will usually hit that Trap if you put it in front of them and give them multiple chances. This involves covering every angle of the pond, and making multiple casts. Now, if this same pond gets lots of fishing pressure, all bets are off.
  19. If you're going to spend this much money and buy one of the Microns, you'll probably want to buy the C. Going with a needle under .20 can mean problems with paint pick up unless it is properly diluted. Of course, this is only what I've heard ... as I've never spent this kind of money on an airbrush. Doesn't mean I won't one day. I have an Eclipse BCS, which is a nice gun, but I'd doubt that it is much better for detail than your Paasche.
  20. mylar film is a little cheaper than frisket and does pretty well too.
  21. those old lures did yellow. Once had an old River Runt that would have proved it. And the point isn't just the wood. Plenty of various types of wood would hold up without decay, especially if you made sure that you sufficiently expoxied in the hardward to prevent moisture from sitting in those holes. But without a clear, I doubt any kind of paint is going to hold to the abuse a lure gets over a very long period of time.
  22. Pete, look at your bait and notice that your line tie, if you draw a vertical line down from it, is barely touching the front edge of the bait. The closer the tie is to the front edge, whether the tie is put into the lip, or in this case, is in the body of the lure, the tighter the action. The closer to the back of the lip, the more wobble. I agree with the rofish that you will do better by repositioning the lip so that the slot is closer to the tie, rather than moving the tie down on the lure or making the lip longer. If you do that (move the lip up), you should get closer to the action you are looking for without any other problems. But moving the tie down, or extending the lip's length, could create other problems. The other things you can do -- widening the lip or making it thinner -- will have some effect, but not to the degree that changing the line tie in position to the lip will. I wouldn't worry about these until you do the other.
  23. sj, I think you can see from the answers that no one has found something that is cheap and works. Closest that I've found is a silver leafing pen. Nice thing about them is that they, like an airbrush, don't show any brush- type marks. But they also dull somewhat under a top coat. One tip for anyone to consider is, using the gold or copper pens you can get some nice effects as a accessory color (fire tiger marks, dots, etc.)
  24. scoop10

    Bass Food

    Nice looking baits, TBait. I've only ever used Devcon 2-ton, but you may want to just go to the Auto Air paint. I understand that it is actually some kind of hybrid acrylic-enamel mix that will better tolerate different types of clears. I'd been using the Auto Air in combination with regular Createx for a while and didn't realize that. It's definitely something that I will be looking into.
  25. As hoodaddy says, Jed, if you let the 3M spray get tacky before applying, I don't think you will have any problem. I used it on some gold foil wrapping paper, with two baits recently, and had no problems. Getting ready to do it on 7-8 more real soon. Now, does anyone know where I could get some of this candy foil? Looking for some yellow (chartreuse) foil in particular.
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