bladesandbaits

Agree.

You have just about named them all. We have a blank supplier thread that is closed. I think it would be a good idea to follow suit with s couple more categories. Maybe the mod's will consider this. On another note. Way - way- way before pre cut stencils so popular and available, I would make my own. (Dale Sellers tought me this years ago) Take a sheet of glass like a window Paine - get a wood burner or soldering iron and sharpen the point of the iron - lay paper on the glass and burn/cut your stencil by hand. Resume paper works best as it has a fiber that burns clean. I still make my own stencils this way. Regards, Blades

Water base or Lacquer?

I need to get on the ball and find more. Roger Gruvso (Swede) God rest his sole, sent me a great amount of it years ago. I use it when I'm repairing and reserecting old wood lures for people. The stuff Roger sent me is really good quality I know it won't last forever .....

Kidding. 

Ha. I need to make a plug that runs 60 feet deep. I like the third one from the left!

Ha. I knew you would surface ol' Man of few words!

Curious about the hardness issue. Wonder is there is any "gassing off" , could this also effect the curing? I've never had an issue with bubbles or hardness . I don't use it exclusively but when I do it's going over lacquer. Maybe that's the difference?

10-4 -will do. I have been reading up on a reloading forum to hopefully get a good starting point for a ratio. From what I have read, seems this lead I have is very pure and a good find. On another note..... My Dad always told me there was no excuse for being ignorant if you have access to the internet or a smart phone but I swear sometimes there's too much information. If you think this site is full of different opinions it doesn't hold a candle to these reloading sites. Thanks again all. Always appreciate the guidance. Regards, Blades

Awesome! Ratio? or just experiment?

There are 2 types of paint. Water Base and Solvent Base. There are several types of solvent base paints. Some thin with Mineral Spirits / some thin with Lacquer Thinner/ some will thin with Toluene/some thin with Xylene. A water based paint like Auto Air/Wicked - etc has polyurethane or acylic resin dissolved in low -VOC solvent which is then suspended in water. I took a look at the website you posted a link too and couldn't find any information regarding any thinner they would offer for the solvent based product. If you have already purchased some of the paint from the spraygunner site then try to thin it with laquer thinner or contact the company and ask them if they offer a thinner. If you have not purchased the product yet I would still contact the company and ask about a thinner. Regards, Blades

Good evening all. I recently came upon a considerable amount of sheet lead that came from an X-Ray room ( my doctor gave it too me to haul off) I melted/ Fluxed it and pored into some ingnots. The final product is beautiful. The problem is I believe it is too soft. I pore lots of lead but have bought most of my lead in the past from suppliers and there lead seems to be much harder. I can see a difference on my final product. Would any of the experts here please give me some guidance as to what I should add to make it harder? I guess I should search the forums better and will continue to do so while waiting on answers. Thank you in advance. Regards, Blades

This ought to be good!

Yeah. I fooled around with this sfew years ago with my son for a project he did in the boy scouts. We used rustoleam enamel rattle can paint. It seemed to have a good bearier separation as you called it. It was a bit messy but fun to do. I'm going to try and find the bait. If I do I will put up a picture. Regards, Blades

I would love to see the results as well Dave. I know 100% with your engineering knowledge you will come up with a cool process to do this.

I played around with hyrdrodipping lures a few years back. Pretty cool and easy. Dave. There used to be several videos on YouTube just search "hyrdrodipping lures" . It may not be the same technique Blankman used on his frog. There's several other YouTubes on acrylic swirl techniques that I'm sure could be used for certain lures. I suppose Blankman could clarify. It never struck a cord with my customers but I think it's still a neat deal. BTW your frog is cool. Regards, Blades.

You are more than welcome. Seems we all have different results at times.It all depends on the application. I just dont think theres a one size fits all when it comes to clearcoats. I still use it on lipless/pop r types/redfins/wake baits and topwaters. I have never turned it JayBee. Sorry man maybe someone else can answer who has tried it. Regards, Blades

Picasso w/Indiana back blade 3/8 oz= #5 1/2 oz =#6 3/4 oz =#7 Worth Indiana or can get them from Lureparts Online maybe Barlows

Ditto

One coat / issues I had were with Rogues- Pointer Minnows-Staysees and a few Crankbaits. Fritts asked me to never put it on any of his lures again. Customers noticed it and so did I. Probably from hanging them and not turning them as hanging baits from the nose allows more clear to settle to the rear of the bait even with a drip wire regardless how thin it is. Not saying it is an issue with all lures. No doubt it cures really hard . Works for others not for me.

Good for you!

Spray it. $76.00 quart + Activator $48.00 + Reducer $31.00 Thinner? Depending on how much you reduce it. Harder? I dont know as I have never tested the durometer. I use KBS on my spinnerbaits wont use it on most crankbaits and jerkbaits I custom paint as it tends to ruin the action. Regards, Blades

If you wrap the joint in very thin gauge copper wire, you can solder it. You will need to apply flux to the copper. You can find the copper wire at Michael's or Hobby Lobby as well as the solder. You can also use steel piano (music wire) for the wire portion and as long as you clean the wire and flux it will solder up very nice. You can get the steel music wire in 12" pieces from McMaster Carr. in many gauges If in the end, the lead is what holds the joint together, then you can get creative and minimize the loop joint for soldering and it might take less room up in the mold. Lot of things I don,t know about your bait as my suggestion's are based on the pictures. Regards, Blades

DCU Concept 2021 (Deltron Product) Click on the link scroll down to DCU 2021 https://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Products/Automotive-Refinish/Deltron But there are several good ones and i'm sure there are plenty of people here with other brands they use. Some dry quicker some dry longer. Some are only available in gallons and some in quarts. I just like 2021 and have settled on it. It comes in quarts BTW. If you decide on 2021 I would be glad to help you. Regards, Blades.

KBS is just as nasty as any other 2 part clear. Big difference is very low traces if any of carcinogens so guess its not quite as nasty. (see link below) It will still wreck your lungs regardless. Its clearly the safest alternative . Even if your dipping you need good ventilation and breathing protection. Build yourself a spray booth with the appropriate ventilation. Wear protective clothing and resporator Build some racks for your lures And clear coat with the clear of your choice. (side note) I don't like KBS for production because it takes way to long to cure as do most moisture cure products. Regards, Blades Not sure the link below will work. If not search KBS Diamond finish sds sheets. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1740/5569/files/SDS_KBS_DiamondFinish_1804.pdf?7151834087657074980