bladesandbaits

I don't think there going to make anymore crankbaits. Everyone knew Ed hand a hand on every bait made until he passed. There thinking at the moment is that the "allure" of buying a bait made post Ed passing would not last long I'm afraid the price for what's out there is just going to keep going up .

Do you want to buy one for your own use or want to get your hands on one to see the particulars ?

I don't think the search for what is the "best" will ever end. I think you just have to settle on what works for you and move on because the debate never ends. K2 clears are ok as I like them on spinnerbaits but I don't make them anymore as Cast Industries casts and paints all my spinneebaits now. I think they use K2 if I remember correctly. On anything that doesn't require an epoxy coating I have settled on PPG 2021. Its not a durable as epoxy and I hate messing with epoxy of any kind but use it when have too. As much as I like PPG I would change in a heartbeat if I could find something I could spray and it be a better durable finish. Regards, Blades

I stand corrected. I've been using there industrial coating for years on the machinery I build and manufacture. Never used there clear for lures. We've had a good stock of product for a while shame to find out on a website there OOB. Don't think in any way I was referring to you being a liar ...Sir.

Not sure. I use lots of PPG 2021 clear as well as PPG Ceramicoat with great results. I don't use it exclusively as some applications require Devcon 30 min or equivilant.

Hmm. That's interesting . I buy various clears from them on a regular basis.

Cut a small 1/8 inch long piece of 1/8 or 3/16 inch heat shrink (depending on the r-bend diameter). Slip it over the "r" bend and heat to shrink. Regards, Blades

I can't get the link to paste. Go to eBay. Search Bagley B4 blank There $24.95 each . Regards, Blades

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-VINTAGE-Original-Bagley-Balsa-B4-Wooden-Blank-Bagleys-ALL-BRASS-Hangers/312406624944?hash=item48bce2cab0:g:wnwAAOSwGtRXxY6Z:sc:USPSFirstClass!30629!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0 Regards, Blades

Most use Delta Labs clear.

Why?

Ha! No kidding there was plenty of debate on that subject. There was so much information on that subject, when a newbee would come along and ask a question about DT2/Etex/ ........... the thread would get bombarded with copy and paste links. And someone was going to always chime in " USE THE SEARCH FUNCTION!"( I think that would be Mr. Tally most times) because we all new the debate was going to get fired up again. I know it sounds trivial but looking back it was funny as hell for me.

I will add this tip. After you are sure your baits are dry. When I use Devcon 2 ton I use 30 min. I stick each bottle (Part A and Part B ) seperately in to a solo cup and run hot tap water in the cup- let sit a few minutes then mix. I do this with etex as well. For me it goes on really smooth and never any bubbles. Regards, Blades

I miss the old days. There was always some colorful conversation in the chatroom. Stumbled across a thread Tally boy started and wound up here. Good to see Skeeter chimed as well as a few more of the "old gaurd"

Ha! Mr Dave Talbort in the house!

Any idea what the tensile strength of .041 SS wire typical of the wire forms sold at Lure Parts/Janns is? If its like most 304 SS wire 205,000 psi should be the tensile strength. Regards, Blades

Thanks man. I looked once before didn't see them. Will look again.

LimpNoodle. Do you have a good source for plain steel colorado blades? 3's and 4's? Regards, Blades

I actually did use a cheap steel Colorado blade and steel piano wire. But ultimately I want to use a plated blade and SS wire. Don't mind polishing off the plating down to the brass on the blade but SS won't solder to steel or brass unless I braze it. I don't want the final product to be steel music wire because it will rust. Regards, Blades

Thanks guys. I was going to try and attach a blade to a SS wire. The wire would be part of the lure so brass won't work because of poor strucutral integrety. Tried some different methods using epoxy but again the blade/wire are part of the structural integrity. I did an experiment with steel wire with positive results. I think I'm going to abandon the idea. I sincerely appreciate the help. Regards, Blades

Hello all. I'm experimenting with a new concept on a lure. Will be glad to share the final results and design once I figure it all out and have a final product with no rework . Issue: I want to attach (weld/solder) a .35 stainless wire to the underside of a Spinnerbait blade. (currently an Indiana blade or Colorado Blade.) I am struggling with this as I have tried several methods without much success. I do realize I need to get the plating off the blade or at least on the area I am attempting to attach the wire too or just work with a plain brass blade. I am going to experiment with some silver solder paste but am waiting on it to be delivered. Has anyone here attempted this and /or is anyone willing to share some knowledge based on there experience ? Thank you in advance. Regards, Blades

Yes sir. Polytranspar was a Wasco Taxidermy inc. Product and Mckenzee Taxidermy purchased them. There in North Carolina and can be found on the web. Regards, Blades

Yes sir , airbrush. I use RM Lacquer which is vertually impossible to source anymore but Polytranspar (brand) is very good and can be bought in small quantity. Not to discourage you but lacquer is a totally different animal than water base paint. ( Another subject altogether) I haven't searched the forum to see if there is info on basic use. Mckezee (spelling) taxidermy supply is the source for PT. Regards, Blades

Powder Coat / Bake Powder Coat / Paint with Acrylic Lacquer / Clearcoat. Lacquer will bond to the cured powder and wont come off unless cured powder chips. Regards, Blades