woodieb8

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woodieb8 last won the day on September 8

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About woodieb8

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  • Location
    lake st clair
  • Interests
    baits,musky,
  1. Masking Around Bill

    I have done some contact paintin where the bill/lip was covered with saran wrap. the cling wrap type. actually it worked excellent. for years we use the green/blue painters tape. it wont leave adhesive like normal masking tape.
  2. fluorescent?

    one shot sign painters enamel based. .there floro,s are excellent but pricey.
  3. fluorescent?

    floro,s .if left in sun over time will wash out..using a good clearcoat will inhibit fade ,but eventually they will fade. we used to use 1shot florourescents,and topcoat automotive clear ..
  4. primer sealer?

    if your using etex as a seal coat,any solvent primer will bite into etexwhich is alkyd base. you can use any paint afterward water,enamel, lacquer. make sure the colors are dry then topcoat with etex again for mr toothy...this is for wood baits, on plastics its different.
  5. paint other than water based

    gino. you can spray basicly any paint. lacquers,enamels,automotive urethanes. remember though. you will need to clean your airbrush right after spraying.
  6. Best Clear Coat

    years back when we had contract work for wholesale companies. we did bomber 9-a,25-a models,also luhr Jensen hot lips,power dives. the top coat clear was ,clear acrylic sprayed. for custom builds nowadays we use transtar clear..transtar automotive gives the best gloss,durability over clear acrylics....this is on plastic baits. on woods the process changes..we used to do Blakemore trouble shooters by the garbage bag ,grrr,same process.
  7. hardest clear

    thru the years I have become sensitive to envirotex. I get itchy with contact,. its rubber gloves now. as for using automotive clears they are toxic. before shooting,we start the blower system to create a draft. that way shooting into the plegnum fumes and overspray wont backwash into the area.. my blower system will open a mandoor from 24 feet away..as posted its repeated exposure that will get ya. play safe guys.
  8. Airbrushing Large Baits

    hang them bye a wire till there dry completely. I know we all rush. some times slo is faster . I'm guilty too.
  9. hardest clear

    mark. stated it all in a nutshell.
  10. Best epoxy clearcoat

    envirotex on wood lures for us..gallons every year..slo and steady lol.
  11. PVC Musky Glide Bait

    using an 0.92 s/steel screw 1/1/2 inches with some epoxy I wont worry. if your worried insert screws that way and then use your finish clear over top of it all. ,overbuilt yes but no worries.
  12. PVC Musky Glide Bait

    I have experimented with deckboard/plastic. screws hold very well,never an issue.
  13. Bubbles

    were all learning every day. .we have become mad scientist.
  14. Bubbles

    our pour hole is at the highest point,vent hole in rear top of our molds. when expansion happens we block the pour/sprue hole. back pressure forces foam micro bubbles to collsape creating a harder denser body.. we wash bodies in hot dawn soapwater to remove any release wax. then sanding. . wish I knew how to downsize pics. I'm one of the old guys building baits ,... I hope this helps someone out.
  15. Bubbles

    whats shown will not change. its an inherent issue with urethane foams.. the only issue of sink rate would be densitys involving expansion. that can be caused by temperature when pouring . under 72 degrees expansion would be less..as I stated before the small pitting can be filled with lepages wood filler and sanded.. if anyone solves this issue feel free to share. we pour dozens of gallons yearly and have become accustomed to this.