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woodieb8

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woodieb8 last won the day on March 9

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About woodieb8

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    lake st clair
  • Interests
    baits,musky,

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  1. we use folk-art crackle. never an issue. a little warmth will accelerate the procedure .
  2. we seal our lures with enviro. next day is white primer..never an issue .no crack,checking or peel..cedar absorbs sealers well.
  3. on the smaller b8s we always use the vmc nu. 4 .sharp and strong.
  4. what sealer u using.
  5. there vacuum plated chrome on plastics.
  6. shooting candys is all about the base.
  7. use some very thin lexan for templates. markers are awfull if you want to repaint over the lure. you will get bleed thru ,and get peed off.
  8. depending on what the lures are made of for clearcoats..on doing thousands it depends cost factors..there is no magic bullet in the industry.
  9. tell us, but start with 1 type of what you want to build. theres a million variables..if you want to pour your own thru molding try makealure as stated. you need a mold,then the correct resin,plastic,urethane foam. my advice read till your eyes bleed.then adventure into it.
  10. are you sure you used lexan? . we have never had this issue for over 4 decades.. im puzzled.
  11. the post above is sooo true. weighting can kill a lures action...a brief thought for myself would be to go to a smooth-on rigid foam in their 26lb urethane foam..you could adjust weight or more buoyancy with micro-balloons. .
  12. we build wih 1/8 lexan for lakes without rock areas. some guys use 3/16ths ..lexan is very strong on its own..remember to scuff the lexan lip before epoxing it in. it gives a stronger bond.
  13. we use green frog tape. there will always be a small paint parting line. that's how we do re-paints etc. on what we build lips are installed after clear coats.
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