woodieb8
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Everything posted by woodieb8
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on the smaller b8s we always use the vmc nu. 4 .sharp and strong.
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there vacuum plated chrome on plastics.
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shooting candys is all about the base.
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use some very thin lexan for templates. markers are awfull if you want to repaint over the lure. you will get bleed thru ,and get peed off.
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depending on what the lures are made of for clearcoats..on doing thousands it depends cost factors..there is no magic bullet in the industry.
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tell us, but start with 1 type of what you want to build. theres a million variables..if you want to pour your own thru molding try makealure as stated. you need a mold,then the correct resin,plastic,urethane foam. my advice read till your eyes bleed.then adventure into it.
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are you sure you used lexan? . we have never had this issue for over 4 decades.. im puzzled.
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Resin Swimbaits - Featherlite or alumilite - slow sink application
woodieb8 replied to bassmaster7938's topic in Hard Baits
the post above is sooo true. weighting can kill a lures action...a brief thought for myself would be to go to a smooth-on rigid foam in their 26lb urethane foam..you could adjust weight or more buoyancy with micro-balloons. . -
we build wih 1/8 lexan for lakes without rock areas. some guys use 3/16ths ..lexan is very strong on its own..remember to scuff the lexan lip before epoxing it in. it gives a stronger bond.
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that's an oldie
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we use green frog tape. there will always be a small paint parting line. that's how we do re-paints etc. on what we build lips are installed after clear coats.
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rustoleum 2x white primer works well. .most guys are using a powder paint. we still use actual paints,we use stencils and spray. auto clear finish coat.
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if your doing the blades you will need an acid etch primer..standard paints will not hold up without it. .you will need a blower system and respirator..this holds up on plated blades.
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merry Christmas from Canada.
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hi we run the wire thru ,drill weight hole push wire thru catching hangar. pour led into cavity. the 2 are now impossible to pull apart..we are located on l.st clair in Windsor Ontario.
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we still build customs for clients to order. to pay bills we have to do production..while we don't build smaller lures,mainly musky/pike baits.yes up here on the great lakes,it is a dying art..society wants everything yesterday.
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hi first off. did you seal the wooden body?.. bubbles are normally moisture of to much heat applied to make paints dry.
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try witchcraft tape in Michigan.
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we pour lead where the front belly hangar is on our shad baits..where are u located muskiestalker?
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hi I believe they were built from balsa.. I would wire thru the lip thru the body fully for strength. up here guys use them for musky.,but steered away because balsa baits never held up.
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hi envirotex will stay brushable for hours. sounds like you did not equal amounts or wrong mix procedure. rotate your baits manually or a spinner..as on screw eyes drill a tiny pilot hole3/4rs in insert screw with a dab of 2 part epoxy..on screw eyes when finishing,make sure screw eye opening is facing forward..if it happens to get slightly opened the hook will stay.
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which paints. start from beginning to end . guys will resolve your issue.
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beauty work.
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Color changing paint. Color Shifting paint, powder pearls. Paint
woodieb8 replied to Kreate's topic in Hard Baits
we have used the shift paint. thinned with water. sprays well for base ,not great for fine details. .results look cool. going to ask some muskies next.
