BassBull

Hello Rusty......I have found that I have to heat my heads for use with black powder paint more than with other colors. If not I get very light coat of black and the lead shows thru like a shadow of sorts making the black color look not quite right. ????? I'm sure others have better ideas for you. Good luck. ..... STEVE

Hello 2 bits.....What I do is take a plastic cable staple and pull the nails out of it. Then wrap the nail with a alum. tape to the size that will fill the weed guard hole in the mold. Make sure you leave one end tape free to reach into the mold, This where the weed guard will be put. This hole will hold at least 5 weed guard bristle . After the lead is poured you can pull the nail with ease. TWIST AND PULL STRAIT OUT SO NOT TO MAKE THE HOLE BIGGER. You can use the same nail while you powder paint the head . Just pull nail out when paint is still hot our it will chip on you. I use 4 bristle on my NED HEADS to make them weedless using a Poison tail doctored up mold. Works great....Good luck ...STEVE

What kind of jump in size from a #1 to a 1/0 in a EC Lil Nasty hooks? Trying to make a weedless NED Hook. Thanks a head of time. STEVE

Nedyard could explain the use of the screws ? Does the twisted wire get removed and replaced by a screw ? Thanks a head of time. STEVE

What I use for baits like spin and buzz baits is a alum. banana bread mold. Real cheap and easy to find. Dollar stores and Wal-Mart. You can cut it down our bend the light container into the shape you want. This is not a square mold but rectangular. I swipe the spin our buzz from one end to the other and the hook never gets any powder on it. I hope this helps you. Have a good day. STEVE P.S..... I put at least two our three jars of powder into the mold and take a spoon and build a mound in the center, making it easier to miss the hook.

Good morning everyone . For the new Ned mold that's out what size wire( 7 strand) and where do you get it. I have thoughts of taking some 80 lbs. floro that I use on some other set ups I make for wacky rigging that works good. Thanks a head of time. STEVE

I took the poison tail mold and did ex. what you are looking for. All you have to do is put a rubber skirt collar on the hook and position it on the hook so that it will keep the lead from going down the hook shaft to the bait keepers. Then you paint and work up your head with a paint job you want. There are two our three ways to put a keeper on your hook shaft to hold the bait on. I have tied on the hook shaft many diff. materials just use what is handy for you. A word to the wise. it doesn't take much to hold on a bait, so keep it on the small size. This system works great and you don't have to mess with the screw locks. Good luck STEVE

Is this a good head to use and does the mold pour well ? Also would like to use a black finish hook instead of what is recommended ,Gammy bronze. Haven't fished with a shaky head much and would like to start out on the right foot. Thanks a head of time......STEVE

I would suggest you use RTV.RUBBER MOLD MAT..I have flipping and swim jig molds made of it and they have poured 4 to 5 hundred heads each and still ready for more. I've made a lot of these molds to get my own style of heads that I want. (RTV will show all defects) First before you get ready to make your mold take your jig you want and look it over real careful for defects and any thing else that isn't quite what you want. You can take play doe our clay that kids play with and fill holes our add to the jig. Now that you have your jig the way you want it, take and coat the jig with a LIGHT coat of D2T. This will give you a very nice finished (smooth) blank to pour in to. If possible always make two molds of the same copied head. Because of the heat from the lead will make the mold very hot and that is what will destroy the mold. What it does is slows you down and one mold has some time to cool down. Another hint is to be sure to make the mold thick enough. At least 3/4 to 1 inch thick on the widest point on your jig.Will make it last a very long time. When you cut your sprue hole cut it on the back side of where the hook comes out. You only have to cut one side of the mold for this. THE POURING HOLE CAN BE AS BIG AT THE TOP AS YOU WANT ,BUT WHERE IT ENTER THE MOLD MAKE IT VERY SMALL .You can always go bigger but never smaller. Good luck and I hope this helps. STEVE

I also would get the tear drop with a wire keeper. I use it a lot for eyes and smallies. Get a dremel tool and adj. the top of the eye socket in the mold to hold any hook you want !!! When you don't have current to deal with and want a light weight head you still want to use a lot bigger hook than one size bigger than what the mold says. Also depends on the size of plastic bait you want to use. Have fun... steve

I would get the walking sinker mold and use a drill bit to make room for a swivel where the eye of the sinker is.One end of the swivel is free while the other end is molded into the sinker. This sinker style was made to slide over rock,weeds and through all kinds of bottom junk. I made this mod. to the mold and will never look back !!!! Plus the swivel really cuts down on the line twist. I hope this helps.STEVE

I'm trying to make a jig like Ed Evers at the BMC . Should the round rubber be put on before the tabs our on top of the tabs to work the best ? Fishing for small and Lrg mouth bass in the current eddies on the Mississippi R.. A lot of rocky points and wing dams. Thanks a head of time. STEVE

I would like to try a hook that I saw on a finess jig. It's black in color, not real shiny almost a flat black. It was about a 3/0 our 4/0 size with a flat eye. It's not black nickel. Looks like the finish on the Owner5317jig hook. Does any one have any ideas on what it could be? Could someone post a picture to show the diff. between a black ,platinum black finnish and black pearl finish. Thanks a head of time. Steve

I've been using just a lead melting pot and dip out with a ladle. Had a pot that would pour out of the bottom and to much of a hassle with diff. molds and the dripping. I also went and bought a bunch of allu. nut bread pans from the local store. They are long and narrow. You can bend them into a lot of diff. shapes as needed to slide your buzz and spinnerbaits down a trough looking set up , works great. Good luck ...STEVE

Take the Walking sinker mold (model :ws-10-a ) from DO-IT and drill out our have milled a slot for a swivel just above the eye of the sinker. With one end of the swivel eye fitting into the eye of the sinker. I have been using this for the last 3 years and this set up doesn't snag up very little on the Mississippi River. I fish a lot of rock wing dams and rip rap areas. This has really saved on time for retying . Just thought I would throw this out there for every one. I just don't see spending the money on the more pricey tung. weights. Have a good day. STEVE

Have you tried to dip the tail in purple spike- it .

Hello ....First how old is your lock tight??? Maybe just to old ?? Then are you leaving your pins in while you powder paint ( should be) and pull the pins while powder paint is still hot .With a spinning action just before you pull the pin out. That way you should have a good clean hole as far size and be able to see lead all the way down to the bottom of the hole I've never used LT, always used DT2 with no trouble . Like SMLJ said check the length of your pins you could have a few bad ones. Your pins are locked down in the mold right? When you put the glue on the end of the weed guard and slide it into he hole and you feel that's as far as it will go, you should SPIN the weed guard at least 2 our 3 full turns to spread the glue around the fibers and to the bottom and sides of the hole . I hope this helps. STEVE

Hello .....I'm trying to get a friend over to show me how to transfer the picture off of my wife's camera. have a good day. Steve

Another option....I use the hook Mustad 91768 NP-BN . This is a jig hook but I make it into a hook for tx rigging plastics. I have played with a lot of dif. keepers to hold the baits on and have narrowed it down to a couple that I like. Coated cable our jig weed guard bristles are about as good as I can find for my type of fishing beavers and brushhog type baits. The big dif. that I do tho is to tie the keeper to the INSIDE ( between the hook point and the eye of the hook) just behind the hook eye.. That way the keeper follows the channel the hook eye makes on it's way out on the hook set. This opp.has saved me on a lot of money on my plastics. It's not as easy to put the keepers on this style of hook but worth the time and effort . The way the hook is made, the bend in the hook lets it slide thru weeds and wood without catching anything Just give this a try you won't be sorry. Have a good day. STEVE

Good Morning all....Veto the mark ( scratch) should only be a hair line type of channel. I take a wood chisel and I just give it a small tap on one side of the mold and it works just great .Have a good day...STEVE

Take a small file our better yet a very small sharp knife (wood chisal)SP? and make a fine line where the hook shaft and lead meet. Have it go strait down and away from the hook. This will let the trapped air find it's way out and the lead will work it's way down a lot easier. You only have to do this on one side of the mold Good luck......Steve

First off...I never heat the spinnerbait head so hot that the powder paint gets to that nice glossy look on the first time with the heat gun. Way to hot if its doing that, If you can time it (18 count for me) on a 3/8 oz bait so that the PP is just that powdery look, no glossiness at all. then just take a brush our just use your fingers to swipe off the PP off the hook and wire coming off the head. Then put the bait back over the heat gun and then heat the PP to a nice glossy finish. Very simple and easy to do... good luck Steve

Hello Mas.. I take and put a rubber skirt collar about a half inch up from the loose ends. Then take and roll the rub collar to make that end as round as you can and do this so each jig has been fitted with its own weed guard. You shouldn't try and put the solid end in the hole it will drive you crazy !!!! When this is done you then mix up your 2 Ton and you can just pick up each jig, pull the WG and dip the end in your 2T, reinsert your WG spin it twice after it hits bottom and your done. Put jig in some kind of drying rack and leave it alone for a day. Weed guards should fit perfect doing it this way and won't lean one way our the other. Have fun and have a good day. STEVE

Maybe its just me but a chatterbait and tree tops and stumps don't mix very well. I get hunge up way to much for my liking. Thinking about making one out of a reg. bass jig with a weed guard. Does any one have exp. with this style of bladed bait. What are the good 'bad and the ungly on this. Thanks a head of time. STEVE

I and a few others in this area take a piece of brass inline spinner part and mill and drill it to look like the lead part of a rifle bullet. Its a lot of work but does help a lot. Is it perfect, no, but the percent of weedless wraps goes up enough to worrent doing it. Good luck. STEVE