BobP

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BobP last won the day on April 16

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About BobP

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats
  1. Lure packaging inserts

    I think about any print shop could do it for you and might also be able to do some attractive logo or design work too. At minimum, you could go to a shop thst prints business cards and use those as your inserts. They’re cheap.
  2. Envirotex lite 30 min epoxy mixing

    I don’t think epoxy resin and hardener weigh exactly the same by volume, which means if you measure by weight, you are not really measuring them according to the manufacturer’s instruction. It’s not a big difference, obviously, since some guys do it and it seems to work. But to me, if the manufacturer says to measure equal volumes, that’s what I do to insure the most consistent results. I’m sure you can figure out a “correction weight” for the components by weighing the full bottles when you buy them (assuming the factory filled the bottles correctly), but it seems simpler to just use a set of epoxy syringes to get equal volumes. Epoxy cures by a chemical reaction at the molecular level and if there are excess molecules of resin or hardener present, they remain unbonded. Far enough out of kilter, and the end result is tacky epoxy, or at least a coating that is not as strong as it could have been, or a coating that will yellow faster than otherwise. That’s why we keep stressing measuring exactly and mixing it thoroughly.
  3. Presenting Crankbaits

    I can only speak as a buyer, not a seller, but I like to be able to handle a bait in a clear plastic box so I can see what it’s like close up in detail before deciding whether it would be something I’d pay money for. A display case showing the available color schemes, or a color scheme chart is nice if you are more interested in later orders, but hands on is where it’s at for me.
  4. Balsa crank problems

    Hiro, that’s a great novel solution. I try to handle them so they’ll last a little longer. Fish don’t destroy balsa lures, fishermen do.
  5. Best way to drill into circuit board lips?

    The short answer is I don’t know because I never owned one of his baits. A lot of things go into a bait’s action, more than we have discussed above. When I find a bait I really like, I go to a lot of trouble to make an exact copy, buying several examples, measuring and weighing components and even getting an X-ray to determine the internal features like ballast position and shape. Many guys think building a copy that Sorta looks like an original is going to get there but it won’t unless they really dig down to the details. Crankbait performance is complicated and small differences can have outsize effects. I don’t do this to steal a bait design and sell copies. I’ve never sold a bait in my life. It’s a hobby exercise to find out what makes a particular bait tick so I can learn how to build better baits for my own personal use.
  6. Best way to drill into circuit board lips?

    Yeah, it’s billed as a self-tuning line tie that is free to flop back and forth. I think it's made by spro? Not certain what it’s claim to fame is; maybe that it never needs tuning. Don’t know how a hobby builder working with wire would implement such a thing - or if there’s any real utility or advantage to such a design.
  7. Best way to drill into circuit board lips?

    In my experience, you have it backwards regarding the fore/aft position of the line tie. Most baits work well with the line tie slightly to the rear (nearer the nose of the bait) of the lip’s fore/aft mid point. Too far back and the bait will blow out to one side or the other. Too far forward and the action will be dull or even nil. Line tie position is often very critical. A millimeter fore or aft can have a big effect on bait performance. The amount of ballast and it’s position is also important. I generally build so the overall bait balance point is at the belly hanger or slightly in front of it. A wide lip tends to make the bait steadier, maybe too steady. A narrow lip will tend to introduce a some body roll along with the wiggle, which I prefer. Wide/narrow is relative to the width of the bait’s body. Take a look at several commercial baits and you see that the lip width on many of them is just a little wider than the body. That’s a good starting point. I use a Dremel with micro bits to drill the line tie hole. I want it just slightly smaller than the line tie diameter. I make the line tie from twisted soft temper stainless wire, bend it 90 degrees just below the eye so the bend is the same distance from the eye as the thickness of the lip, then force it into the lip for a tight fit. The wire on the bottom of the lip is long enough to fit into the lip slot, where I have drilled a small central slot to accept it. Glue it in with the lip. That’s what works for me. Other guys have different methods and what works, works. You just don’t want a line tie that flops around during use.
  8. Home Brew Rod Drier - Turner

    Sorry, I lost the train somewhere in your first post. 5 min epoxy will turn a very unattractive brown from UV exposure and it is only water resistant, not waterproof like the 30 min variety. When repairing guide wraps, I sometime use Devcon Two Ton thinned with a few drops of denatured alcohol and it has worked fine and hardens much more quickly than Flexcoat. Flexcoat is a good wrap epoxy but it’s expensive compared to some alternatives. I think you could use Envirotex Lite and get as good a result for a fraction of the price. Both contain solvent that enables them to soak into the guide wrap threads and the work times for both are long enough that one batch will let you coat all the guides on a rod.
  9. Home Brew Rod Drier - Turner

    I know guys like to tinker, but why not just buy a cheap 120V AC motor that runs at the speed you want. My crankbait rack runs at 6 rpm on AC power, has plenty of torque, and cost me $7 10 years ago. Other guys use rotisserie motors or motors salvaged from microwave turntables. My rack is for 6 lures. Maybe you need something much larger for a commercial application, but I bet a motor that would suit is made by somebody.
  10. Balsa crank problems

    Balsa is weaker than any other wood used for crankbaits. Anything done to create a tough shell makes it somewhat more durable. A thick glue epoxy like Devcon Two Ton or a uv cured polyester like Alumi-UV are the best ways I know to create a tough shell. But the physics involved when you crash a bait on the water to clear weeds off the trebles will eventually destroy any balsa bait I’ve ever used. The lip acts as a lever to pry the balsa apart, causing water infiltration that ruins the bait or exerting enough force to break off the lip and the upper half of the bait’s head. Rapala tries to avoid this with a stiff thru-wire harness and by encasing the bait in a custom thermoplastic jacket. On some of their baits, it looks like there really isn’t much balsa content left after these reinforcements. So little that I wonder if the bait wouldn’t be better if the voids were filled with air instead of balsa, like a regular plastic bait. Probably a marketing thing or something. Regardless, they make pretty good crankbaits.
  11. Glitter and Epoxy

    I brush the glitter in a clear acrylic latex. Brushing makes the glitter lay down and lets me put the amount I want where I want it.
  12. Balsa crank problems

    Hey thanks! You explained it clearly enough that I actually THINK I understand. (pause while my wife wipes the dribble off my chin)
  13. Balsa crank problems

    Ok, I’m surely no Mr. Science, and I can see how the dunk test can give you the required weight of a bait to make it suspend in water, but density? It seems to me that a dunk test with a solid lead lure would give you the same results as the same bait made from balsa. If I’ve got my head stuck where the sun don’t shine, just tell me and don’t try to explain ‘cause I’m probably too dense to understand.
  14. Balsa crank problems

    Most balsa sold in stores is intended for model building and and “you get what you get” in density. The only way I know to get graded density wood is to order it online from a balsa shop. Some of them sell balsa divided into three categories: light, medium, and heavy. They charge a little extra for graded density wood but I think it’s worth it. I buy about $50 worth every 5-7 years and Google online shops to find who’s selling at what prices and density. Maybe somebody who has recently bought online can recommend a specific shop.
  15. Easy dot templete

    I use an old credit card with different sized holes drilled in it.