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BobP last won the day on October 10

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. The main drawback to uv polyester resin seems to be the cost. If you use, say, 1/4 oz of resin on a bait, you get 28 baits out of a 200 gram bottle of DecorRom resin, costing $22 or so. Alumilite Alumi-UV resin is similarly costly. The Solarez resin is much cheaper but contains wax flakes that leave a white haze on the lure when cured. If your pocketbook can stand the strain, uv cured polyester resin is a really fast and user friendly, very durable topcoat.
  2. Basically, epoxy has to be measured correctly and mixed thoroughly before application. If yours didn’t harden or has lumps, it suggests that it needed to be mixed better. If you have fisheyes where the epoxy pulled away in a circle from a spot, that indicates it was applied over an oil or grease spot, which can be caused by a fingerprint on the paint. You didn’t specify exactly what’s wrong with your baits. If the epoxy is sticky, brush on a new coat that is well measured and mixed and this will fix that problem. If the epoxy is hard but lumpy, sand it smooth and re-coat. If your epoxy is curing too fast to get it on the lure before it begins to harden, do not heat the components during the process. To extend the brushing time, mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol before you brush.
  3. Sealing wood is critical, both to increase the durability of the bait and to prevent bubbles in later finish steps. IMO, a strong waterproof sealer is desirable. I use Devcon Two Ton epoxy 99% of the time and I lightly sand it and wipe the bait with denatured alcohol before painting.
  4. Uv base will fluoresce under uv light, including sunlight, if it is not masked by another paint. Uv lures made a splash a couple of years ago. Do they work? I don’t know but it can’t hurt. I don’t use clear bases but I think they are meant to be custom mixed with colors to make translucent paint, which many lure painters favor for layering colors. As far as clearcoats go, you just walked into a minefield of opinions. Personally I use two: Dick Nite S81 Fishermun’s Lurecoat (a moisture cured urethane) and Devcon Two Ton slow cure epoxy. There are other brands that are popular, notably KBS Diamond Coat MCU, Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX) epoxy. I brush both the clearcoats so as not to waste them. I suggest you read some of the many threads on clears to help you decide which is right for you.
  5. There are plenty of pro shops using siphon feed Badger and Paasche brushes to finish baits. I like a gravity feed Iwata because I use small amounts of paint as a hobby builder and it’s easier to clean between colors and after painting. I still keep my Badger with its 3 tips in case I need to paint something larger than a crankbait with paint that’s thicker than I’d use on a bait. Btw, the Neo is the only Iwata built in China, not Japan. You usually get only what you pay for in airbrushes, unfortunately.
  6. Most eclipse models have a .35 mm tip. As well as ordering parts, I think you can send Iwata brushes to a repair facility for service. Don’t think this would be necessarily required on an Eclipse since the tip is not especially small compared to many other Iwata models whose tips really need to be professionally fitted to function right.
  7. I’ve owned Badger, Paasche, and Iwata. My Iwata is clearly the best built and has been trouble free for 10 years. Mine is a Revolution B with a .03 mm tip. Eclipse is of similar high quality in the Iwata lineup. Just IMHO, your Eclipse sounded like it had a problem in the trigger system which caused most of the problems you cited. All airbrushes are precision instruments that require daily cleaning and periodic deep cleaning. They're easy to break or get misadjusted so that they can’t work well. Finicky? Yeah, a little. But there’s no other tool that can do the same job as well.
  8. Your brush wasn’t finicky. It was broken and needed repair to work properly. If you threw it against a wall in frustration, maybe airbrushing isn’t for you. The main thing building and finishing crankbaits taught me was patience. Stick with it and you’ll get that lesson over and over.
  9. Considering the number of segments and their construction, I would brush a moisture cured urethane like KBS Diamond Coat on the exterior only of the bait, careful not to let any flow into the joints.
  10. BobP

    any one!

    Exactly, Mark.
  11. BobP

    any one!

    After roughing out blanks with a scroll saw, I hand shape them with a Dremel tool and a wood carving knife. Do I recommend hand shaping crankbaits? Not really. Good baits are symmetrical and it takes experience to do them right by hand. I’ve been “practicing” for 20+ years and hundreds of baits so know the techniques and patience required. It’s just the way I prefer to do it as a hobby builder.
  12. BobP

    any one!

    I make baits only from wood: mostly balsa or paulownia, a few from basswood. Nothing against other materials like PVC board, it has a couple of advantages in fact, but I just prefer working wood and like the different densities it offers.
  13. BobP

    epoxy mixing cup

    I press a double thickness of tin foil into a baby food jar lid, throw the foil away after use. The lid holds enough to coat 4 bass baits with Devcon Two Ton epoxy, which is all I can coat with one batch.
  14. It’s easy to assume anyone asking about a build problem did all the prior build steps in the same way and with the same products as you use, which obviously ain’t true. That mistake leads to a lot of bad advice but it’s hard to avoid on an Internet forum. To make clear, I use epoxy as an undercoating and water based acrylic paint, so there’s never a solvent based coating on a bait before applying MCU. Epoxy is about the most chemically inert coating I know for a wood bait. And I use acrylic latex color base coats. If you mix solvent based coatings on a bait It’s always a crap shoot whether it will work, so good luck there.
  15. Ya got me. If the MCU is not pooling anywhere on the baits, the only other cause I’ve heard of is wet water based paint - which doesn’t exist in your case.
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