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BobP last won the day on November 26

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About BobP

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    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. BobP

    Silver Holographic body - Crankbait

    Most lures of this type are silvered at the factory. A few TU lure sellers have stocked them in the past, not sure if any do now. As far as “roll your own” metallics, tape or metal leaf are the only cost effective options I know
  2. BobP

    Belly weight and hanger

    I poured lead into a hole and the hot lead charred the wood and made a weak installation, which I discovered when the ballast shot out of the belly when the lure was slapped on the water. A big musky might do the same. So I prefer to epoxy ballast into the lure. But yes, you can drill lead to install the hook hanger, or you can just put them in different places.
  3. BobP

    New Top Coat Coming To Town

    Andy, thanks for coming to the board. I have a few questions. is CSHD an epoxy product? if so, is it mixed in equal volumes? since the op noted it has low viscosity, does it contain any solvents what is its hardening time at nominal room temp? Time to reach a no-sag status on a lure under rotation? In what volumes will it be packaged and at what retail price? Thanks, Bob
  4. BobP

    Dick Nite

    I haven’t used KBS either and so far have been OK with Dick Nite. It is apparently harder to store than KBS but yields a good durable “factory-like” finish and like JayBee says, it seems to penetrate acrylic paint to form a monolithic finish. I quickly flood coat it on lures with a brush and hang them to dry. It is sensitive to begin curing in the container if you contaminate it with moisture by dipping lures in it, which some report is not a problem with KBS, so I use the tap-the-can method of storing and dispensing the small amounts I coat lures with. Either MCU has a good reputation. KBS is more widely available since you can order it from several online automotive parts sites like JEGS, etc.
  5. BobP

    Epoxy Vapor Problem

    I’d be surprised if you could smell any “fumes” from D2T while using it, indoors or out. We use it in batches of a few cc’s at a time. Since D2T is a glue epoxy and contains no solvent, the fumes created are mostly from any solvent you might add yourself (I add a few drops of denatured alcohol). I use it inside regularly. A few people can be allergic to any particular chemical and I think that’s the reason for the manufacturer’s standard warning but as far as I know, the only significant problem is that a few people can develop contact dermatitis from physical contact.
  6. BobP

    Dick Nite

    “UV stuff” is ultraviolet light cured polyester resin that cures in a couple of minutes with UV light from a source like an inexpensive light designed to cure gel fingernail polish, a black light, etc. TUers have used two primary brands. Solarez resin which is designed to coat surf boards and Alumi-UV which is designed for lure coating. Solarez is inexpensive but many report problems with a white wax blush that forms on it while curing. It has a medium gloss. Alumi-UV is a high gloss doming resin (whatever that is) that doesn’t have the white blush problem but which is much more expensive. It’s a very tough and quick finish.
  7. BobP

    Dick Nite

    The Dick Nite site is still active. You can access a TU discount page if you Google Dick Nite Fishermun’s Lurecoat and click on the link on the TU_lander link. His MCU is named “S81”.
  8. BobP

    shipping acrylic paint during winter

    I can’t say it never happens but think it’s pretty rare during shipping. I store my paint in the garage where it gets down to single digits a couple of times per year but I haven’t noticed any damage to the paint. The main danger may be the bottle splitting if frozen.
  9. BobP

    a good epoxy review

    Good point RPM. If it weren’t for the cost, I’d probably be using a doming UV cured polyester like AlumiUV. And moisture cured urethanes like Dick Nite and KBS Diamond Coat have storage requirements that shorten their shelf life. There’s no perfect finish in terms of low cost, ease of use, shelf life, and finished product. You just have to pick one based on your particular needs.
  10. BobP

    Epoxy question

    Cured epoxy is only slightly more dense than water so even a heavy coating does not affect buoyancy as much as you might think. I’ve seen lots of ETEX epoxied lures over the years and it makes a superior durable finish. But like all “pourable bar top and decoupage” epoxies, it contains some solvents to lower its viscosity and release bubbles and so seems to have more “gotchas” than some other epoxies, including more tendency to fisheye over oil contamination, plus much longer cure times. That’s not disqualifying if you follow good measuring, mixing (by volume), and application techniques. To me, Fatfingers member submitted tutorial on ETEX is the Bible on using it.
  11. BobP

    New Top Coat Coming To Town

    The link doesn’t give much info on what it is in terms of chemical composition except to say it contains no solvents and is a two part finish. That suggests to me that it is another epoxy finish. If not, what?
  12. BobP

    a good epoxy review

    Good stuff. But it’s worth noting that the “bubble problem” is probably over-emphasized since we apply epoxy in much thinner coats that expel bubbles more readily than a 1/2” thick hockey puck. And brushing technique also can make a big difference compared to pouring epoxy in volume. Otherwise it was a great experiment and none of us had to buy all those epoxy samples.
  13. BobP

    Epoxy question

    I don’t use ETEX but many who do mix it and let it sit for 10-15 min before brushing it so it thickens slightly. So no, I don’t think premature curing is your problem. Use syringes to measure it, mix it really well for two minutes, and try applying it with a cheap nylon artist’s brush with finer bristles and you should not have problems. Clean the brush with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol and you can use it indefinitely.
  14. BobP

    Tank testing

    KBS is a coatings company. Diamond Clear is their moisture cured urethane finish, popular for topcoating crankbaits (or you can also use it to undercoat a bait). It’s popular because it is tough, waterproof, and non yellowing and you can simply dip lures in it and hang them to dry/cure.
  15. BobP

    Custom Hardbait Painter is one of the most experienced and best respected custom bait painters around. The choice depends on your expectations, but check out his website. He’s a TU member.