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BobP

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BobP last won the day on July 30 2020

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. It takes about 30 minutes inside a nail uv cure box to harden the Chinese resin I have. Different resins are designed to be hardened at different UV wavelengths and a given lamp may or may not work well on certain resins, but most will eventually get the job done. I’d give it an alcohol wipe like Travis recommends after giving it more time under the light. I don’t think you’ll have this problem with Alumi-UV, but the Chinese resin is much less expensive. and yes, curing resin in sunlight is a good way to go since the sun puts out a wide range of UV.
  2. BobP

    Undercoat

    I also view crankbaits as expendable and I don’t have customers who expect (unreasonably) that they last forever. That doesn’t mean I want them to disintegrate an hour into a hot crankbait bite though. I undercoat with epoxy and topcoat with various stuff - MCU, UV resin, or epoxy. So my baits have 2 tough waterproof coatings. That’s enough for me. But all of us are “rolling their own” and if you want 10 layers of finish on your bait for some reason, well, no fault, no foul.
  3. BobP

    Undercoat

    I use water based acrylic paint. The truth is, it lasts as long as the topcoat you put over it. If the topcoat is cracked or chipped, water can infiltrate the paint, cause it to expand and push the finish off the lure. You can avoid that by using lacquer based paint but it is much more toxic than water based. Most hobbyists and small batch custom builders use water based paint. It works fine for most crankbaits, most of the time.
  4. BobP

    uv resin life

    You got me. I also have a bottle of Chinese uv resin, about a year old. It’s still the same viscosity liquid as when new. When I used it as clearcoat last week, it took about 40 minutes in my fingernail uv curing box to properly harden. Not much longer than it took when fresh, but maybe slightly longer. I think the longer cure time may just be typical for Chinese resins. The Alumi-UV resin reportedly cures in a few minutes. It’s also much more expensive, so “player’s choice”.
  5. BobP

    Undercoat

    Anything will work, just depending on what qualities are important to you. Personally, I only use waterproof undercoatings to increase the durability of the lures I make, and in my experience NO water based coating is actually waterproof. I keep several kinds of waterproof clearcoats (epoxy, MCU, uv cured polyester) on hand and I use one of them for undercoating. But most solvent based coatings lIke shellac, spar varnish, urethane, etc can also be used. But water based primer? Not for me.
  6. Don’t know if there are better ways, but I tension a thick rubber band over the nose, adjust it until it looks symmetrical, and mark the slot with a Sharpie.
  7. I prefer inexpensive nylon artists’ brushes. I bought a set of 5 flat bristle brushes at Michaels a decade ago for less than $10 and have used them to apply hundreds of coatings since then. The finer bristles burst bubbles in clearcoats much better than other options. Clean them with lacquer thinner. You can’t beat the cost/benefit.
  8. One thing to be aware of with prop, it should be dissolved in acetone in a pretty dilute solution to make a good smooth coating. That necessitates multiple dips to get a thick enough coating. I used 8 dips, which took about 1 1/2 hrs to accomplish for a small batch of baits. So there are quicker ways to make an undercoating. Also, i never could find a jar that sealed well enough to prevent the acetone from evaporating over a couple of months, an added complication. Yes, it makes a nice undercoating on a Balsa bait. But there are other options that are less hassle.
  9. I use relatively cheap quick cure epoxy (5 minute). It works fast, is strong. Just about any glue will get the job done.
  10. Over the years there were two TU sources for prop pellets. One guy passed away. The other disappeared from the site. I’m sure there is cellulose propionate pellets somewhere but nobody seems to know where that is. I wouldn’t recommend trying plastic cups. Some reportedly work ok, some crack after application. As for prop itself - I’ve used it, it works ok but nothing special compared to other options like epoxy, MCU, super glue, etc etc
  11. If you go to the Alumilite site, there is a video of a guy slamming a uv resin coated bait repeatedly onto a concrete driveway, with little if any damage. So the resin looks pretty darned tough. I think any of the three coatings have performed just fine depending on the thickness of the coating and how well they were applied. So it’s player’s choice depending on cost, ease of use, and your expertise with the coating you choose.
  12. I use either a moisture cured urethane like KBS or a UV cured polyester resin, ordered through Amazon from China, or Alumi-UV a brand available here in the US. A slow cure epoxy like Eastman03 uses is also a decent choice. The most popular epoxies are Devcon Two Ton and Envirotex Lite (aka ETEX), but any slow cure waterproof epoxy is usable. I prefer MCU or UV resin because they don’t need mixing and do not Yellow over time.
  13. I just never got the knack for gluing foil, so opted for thin adhesive foil, namely Venture Brite-Bak foil. It used to be available from art shops for stained glass art but no longer. The last I found was on EBay. It adheres very well, burnishes out nicely, and has good shine.
  14. I understand experimenting to pass the time, seek better understanding of materials and procedures, or whatever. But I agree with Anglinarcher. It probably won’t result in a better bait than simply using one body material. Experience taught me that keeping things simple while building a bait results in fewer problems, less variability, and baits that work and catch fish.better. Just my opinion.
  15. It depends on the hardness of the brass versus the steel and either metal can be tempered to similar or very different hardness. However hard temper stainless is tougher than hard temper brass and it won’t corrode. Jmho, we put so much time and effort into a hand built crankbait that the cost of raw materials like wood, wire and screw eyes is negligible. So I say buy the good stuff.
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