Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


BobP last won the day on April 5

BobP had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,101 Excellent


About BobP

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No, haven’t tried Autoborn. Virtually every paint brand carries a highly pigmented white for color basecoating.
  2. The only Polytranspar paint I use is their Superhide White, which is the best color basecoat I have found. Contains lots of pigment to cover fast and dries quickly to a hard smooth surface. As far as colors go, I use any brand that catches my eye and haven’t had significant problems with any. I particularly like Wildlife Colors, which carries some nice flakes, pearls, etc.
  3. I use .041” soft temper stainless steel wire on all bass baits. It’s also named safety wire. Order it from McMaster-Carr online. Plenty strong, easy to bend and form accurately and it allows fishermen to tune a bait with the line tie in the nose without cracking its finish and compromising its waterproofness.
  4. BobP

    Gulp Crankbait Lip

    You can often torque a broken lip out of the slot, just depending on what was used to glue it in there. If you think it will break the head, you can cut it out with a thin Dremel fiber reinforced cutting wheel. That will make the slot larger so install the new lip with epoxy putty to fill the extra slot space.
  5. I would use size one on such a small bait.
  6. Yeah, I don’t think a hard cured coating of epoxy under the uv resin would make any difference but I would be concerned if my resin took hours to cure under the proper uv light or in sunshine (which contains all uv light frequencies).
  7. I ignore finish on the hangers and line tie until the topcoat is hard, then zip it out with a micro drill bit in a Dremel tool. As far as 3D eyes go, I coat them with topcoat in order to reinforce the weak cement they come with. I paint eyes on baits 95% of the time and it’s not an issue on those.
  8. You can always set the lure outside in the sunshine to cure, which works even on a cloudy day. The closer your bulbs are to the lure, the stronger dose of UV they will get. UV cure resins have a specific UV wavelength that cures them fastest and your light may or may not be optimized for it, but probably puts out enough energy in the required spectrum to get the job done, if Alumilite says it will.
  9. BobP


    I use Dick Nite MCU, not KBS, and don’t use a mask while brushing it on lures in my garage. If I coated large numbers of lures in an enclosed space there would be a lot more fumes and yes, I’d use a solvent rated mask. But 1-6 lures in a well ventilated garage? Not me.
  10. If you reduced the basecoat containing the glitter with anything but water, it may be the reason for the problem. I’ve never had a problem using glitter in a clear acrylic base, brushing it on.
  11. It also depends on which paint and topcoat you use. I have immediately topcoated lures with epoxy over an acrylic latex (water based) paint, with no problems. If you paint with solvent based paints, like lacquer or enamel, you want to be sure they have outgassed all their solvent before topcoating. That may take several days. If you use a MCU topcoat, you want to make sure that all moisture has evaporated from an acrylic paint job before application. How long is necessary? Depends on how thick the paint is and the humidity.
  12. BobP


    I make mine from frisket material, which is plastic sheeting wth or without an adhesive backing designed explicitly for making stencils for airbrushing. A roll of frisket costs around $10 and is virtually a lifetime supply using it for crankbaits.
  13. After they are cured, I think the differences among various brands and types of epoxy used as clearcoats are very minor. Most of the differences concern how the epoxies are applied and cured, not their mechanical characteristics (strength, clarity, resilience, hardness, and waterproofness) after they are cured.
  14. I can build a series of baits and make about 60% of them truly hunt and be retrieved at any speed withount blowing out. 25% run straight and true. But 15% are basically worthless, and that bothers me enough that I stopped building them. I got a few really good hunters out of the experiment, which I like and consider to be a worthwhile exercise as a hobby builder. But hunting is all about making a bait swim erratically, and another way to get that is to bang your bait into and off of as many things as possible during the retrieve. That is way easier to do than build hunters and on balance, I believe a true running bait retrieved like that can be as effective as your best hunter. Player’s choice.
  15. Yeah, I’d rather not see the Devcon-ETEX war start again. My take is that both work well. Maybe ETEX is a little more flexible in cold weather, at least many musky bait builders think so. I’ve tried both and for the bass baits I make, I prefer Devcon for several reasons. It goes on thicker so you need only one coat versus several for ETEX. It hardens faster so you need 45-60 minutes of rotation after application instead of several hours wth ETEX. It is less prone to develop fisheyes than ETEX. I don’t think the end product is any better than with ETEX but it’s a lot less hassle and faster to use in terms of the process. My gut feeling is that all SLOW cure epoxies, including glue epoxies like Devcon , decoupage epoxies like ETEX, or rod thread epoxies like Flexcoat produce topcoats that are very durable, glossy, and waterproof. I say choose one, learn the best application techniques for that one, and never look back.
  • Create New...