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BobP

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BobP last won the day on November 18

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. I use a car polisher fitted with a rubber disk and stick-on sandpaper to size the width of lure blanks and do initial tapering. Not as steady as a bench sander but I can do the sanding outside the garage and avoid getting the dust everywhere.
  2. Yeah, uv polyester resins require specific uv wavelengths to cure. Maybe your light isn’t the right range. As an alternative, you can put them outside for 10-15 mins and sunlight will do the trick, even on a cloudy day.
  3. Putting a properly measure red and mixed layer of epoxy over one that didn’t cure properly will cure the bad epoxy and fix the problem.
  4. I can’t specifically speak to KBS but I’ve used Dick Nite MCU for several years and it is probably even more sensitive to moisture contamination. Pounding the lid back on is the worst case scenario to preserve MCU as it leaves the largest air to finish contact surface and the highest chance of air leakage. It’s also hell getting a can back open after the first use when the MCU has gotten on the lid and cured hard as a rock. Decanting it into narrow necked containers, insuring 100% air seal in a Mason jar, squirting inert nitrogen gas into the container to blanket the MCU, using the “tap the can” method of storage, and dispensing only enough MCU to paint a lure instead of dipping lures in the finish are all strategies that guys use to save their MCU from curing in the storage container. Whether you use any or a combination of these strategies, or none of them, depends on how quickly you will use up the MCU and your pain threshold for wasting money on a rather expensive finish product that easily goes bad due to poor storage methods.
  5. I used to use thru-wire in balsa baits but switched to hand twisted hangers and line ties. I fill drilled holes with slow cure epoxy before inserting them. I can’t speak for others but I’ve never had a fish break a lure body or pull out any hardware, which are the only disasters a thru-wire can prevent. If one ever does, I’ll thank that fish for the experience and MAYBE think about thru-wiring again. But I’m pretty sure my line will break or my trebles will fail before that happens. If thru-wiring is done for convenience compared to other methods, that’s different. But I don’t build large batches of baits and for me it’s just more work that I don’t see the utility for.
  6. I’m unclear about the need for a wire in a tube design. If the wire needs to spin it needs to be hard tempered stainless straight wire. The easiest solution is to order a package of straight wire forms from Mudhole or Jann’s Netcraft online tackle stores. It’s sold for making online spinnerbaits and has one end formed into a hook hanger. The stores also carry spinner blades and beads, etc.
  7. BobP

    Weighting Crankbait

    For the medium to small wood bass lures I typically make, I use lead belly weights that have the hook hanger molded into them, which are usually available from Jann’s Netcraft or Mudhole tackle. I use the 2 gram units most often, the 3 gram less often. But it doesn’t really matter what kind of weight you use. I’ve used lead wire, solder, even tungsten shell shot. But the integrated ballast/hanger units are most convenient.
  8. Here’s how I use Devcon 2T. Measure the epoxy with syringes and mix it vigorously on aluminum foil with a plastic strip for 1 1/2 or 2 minutes. Mix in 3-4 drops of denatured alcohol to dispel bubbles and increase the brush time by a couple of minutes. Use a flat (cheap) 1/4” nylon bristle artist’s brush to apply the epoxy. Fill the brush and apply it thickly, keeping the brush wet at all times and never letting it drag on a dry surface. Maintain a wet surface as you work around the lure methodically. Clean the brush with lacquer thinner for reuse. I looked at your pics and can’t tell for sure whether the voids are fisheyes caused by oil contamination or voids caused by missed or too lightly applied finish, but I suspect the latter due to their irregularity. Basically, you develop a routine that works for you and stick with it. My routine has worked 20 years for me. Your mileage may vary.
  9. Epoxy can fisheye over oil contaminated paint but UV polyester, I don’t know. It cures so fast that I suspect it won’t.
  10. UV cured finish is UV polyester resin, a one part finish. Epoxy is a two part finish that mixes a resin with a hardener and cures via a chemical reaction. In any case, I’d dip the lure and let it drip back into the container for some time before curing starts. If you are curing under a black light or under sunlight, I’d run the lure on a lure turner. As long as the lures have not collected excessive dust or dirt, no special prep is needed. You can Google Alumi-UV to see an Alumilite video of application.
  11. Would/could/should work. Uv resins are designed to cure at specific wavelengths of UV light and your resin will PROBABLY cure with your black light bulbs. I’d test it to be sure. UV polyester resin is a great topcoat solution if you don’t mind the added cost and if you are using a resin that cures to a hard clear shell.
  12. The best way I know is to build a warming box with several high watt light bulbs, or place your lure turner in front of a space heater. If you heat newly applied epoxy too much, it will turn to liquid and drip off the lure, or other disasters. Really the best solution? Try a little patience. Build enough crankbaits and it will teach you to have patience. I promise.
  13. You can paint on foil and it dries normally. But acrylic paint has fairly weak grip on foil and can be easily scratched or rubbed off, so be careful with it until the durable topcoat is applied.
  14. Venture makes a wide variety of foils, which have different thicknesses, different lusters, even different adhesive types. I looked on EBay and found the thinnest one on offer and got it. Maybe slightly less shiny than Brite-Bak (maybe not) and it seems to work as well because it is much thinner than the duct tape carried in US home centers.
  15. Epoxy cures by a molecular chemical reaction between the resin and hardener. To get a good result you have to measure the epoxy accurately according to the manufacturer’s instructions and mix it thoroughly. If the proportions are off, excess resin or hardener will not bond and the finish will be tacky. If you have not mixed thoroughly, tacky finish again. Don’t guess at the volumes required. MEASURE them. It might help to let us know what brand and type of epoxy you are trying to use. If your finish is tacky after 12 hrs whatever the brand, you have a problem. It can usually be fixed by a second coat of properly measured and mixed epoxy.
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