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BobP

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BobP last won the day on May 8

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. I lightly sand the old lure to erase any imperfections and give the surface a little “tooth” to promote paint adhesion , then squirt a little dish soap on it and give it a quick wash. Dry with a clean cloth and ready to paint. Don’t see the need for solvents.
  2. I think of cream as a variant of “bone” and you make that by mixing a little yellow into a white base, and possibly adding a few drops of brown.
  3. I don’t know of any epoxy that you can use without a lure turner for a large number of baits. What I suggest is that you consider using KBS moisture cured urethane. You can dip lures in it and simply hang them to have the excess drip off the tails and dry/cure.
  4. A long work time is one reason I like Rod Bond paste epoxy; its stays in gel form for at least an hour, plenty of time to install hardware and lips on a batch of baits.
  5. I’ve never had a problem with poking epoxy into the holes with a piece of wire, but I use Rod Bond epoxy paste which I think is easier to inject. The problem with syringes is keeping them clean enough to reuse, unless you want the considerable expense of single use syringes that have a needle size large enough to pass epoxy. Really, I feel you are trying to fix a problem that doesn’t need fixing. A musky will probably have to break the wood lure in half before a screw eye epoxied with the “poke it in” method will fail. But if you are concerned, why not do a test to see how much force is needed to pull one out? You may be surprised.
  6. BobP

    e-tex lite

    The working time is very long. Some experienced users let it sit for 10-15 minutes after mixing to get the thickness they want to apply. The rotation time needed is also longer, perhaps twice that of D2T. Users report it is more prone to fisheyes, so you should be careful not to get grease or oil on the bait before application.
  7. Yes, the problem with acrylic paint is that water will cause it to swell and it will push off an epoxy topcoat. The boat other popular paint for crankbaits is lacquer, which is solvent based and doesn’t have this problem.
  8. Createx is the most stocked and sold airbrush paint and finding a substitute paint locally is just a crap shoot you’ll have to explore for yourself. I order all my paint online because the color choices are virtually infinite. I don’t care about brand loyalty and use 5-6 brands including taxidermy paints.
  9. BobP

    Screw eye size

    I make bass baits and use soft temper stainless .041” diameter wire from McMaster-Carr online. Soft temper wire is malleable enough that you can bend it accurately by hand without a dedicated wire bending tool but plenty strong enough for bass baits. Bend the wire over a nail or drill bit sized for the eye you want and then twist the ends together with vise grips to form a shaft of whatever length you need. I like the ability to cook up screw eyes customized to any bait building purpose.
  10. Most guys who use Iwata brushes really like them. To me, the right brush is determined by the tip size you need. Iwatas can be had in truly tiny tip sizes but which size do you need? A .2 mm tip HP can paint very fine lines if your skill and control is up to the task and if you are shooting properly thinned paint. But it isn’t ideal for thicker pearls and flakes. Maybe you can use your Badger 150 for that and a small tip Iwata for finer work. If you want to stick with one brush for everything, an Iwata Revolution BR (.3 mm) or Eclipse (.35 mm) will do it all. One thing you will notice: the smaller the tip size, the more expensive the airbrush and the more costly the repair parts if needed. And the smaller the tip, the more exactly the brush needs to be fitted to use it, so be extra careful with those fine tipped brushes.
  11. Auto paint is harder than acrylic latex or lacquer, yes, but is it hard enough that it does not require a durable topcoat? I don’t think so and if it requires a topcoat anyway, I don’t see any advantage in using it.
  12. I build bass baits less than 3 1/2” and for those I use 1/16” polycarbonate (aka Lexan) or 1/32” G10 circuit board. You can order either from McMaster-Carr online.
  13. I see no problem using a Dremel cutting disk (thin fiber reinforced) as long as you have a clear line to cut and a steady hand. If it cuts oversize, use epoxy paste or putty to install the lip and fill any gaps.
  14. BobP

    Clear coat

    Well, I usually build in batches of 6 baits. When I say “flood coat”, I mean filling the brush and very quickly coating the bait with MCU that will drip off to a leveled coating. Takes maybe 5-10 seconds per bait. So my MCU brush is exposed for only a minute during coating 6 baits before I dunk it into solvent. I’ve used the same cheap flat nylon bristled artist brush for the last 6-7 years.
  15. BobP

    Clear coat

    I use the tap the can method of storage for my Dick Nite S81 MCU. Dispense a little into a cup, quickly flood coat a lure with a brush and hang it to dry/harden. Clean the brush with any solvent you like - I use lacquer thinner. This is almost as fast as dipping and you don’t have to worry about hardening in the can.
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