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BobP

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BobP last won the day on March 18

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About BobP

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    Summerfield, N.C.
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    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. I can think of two ways. Put dye in a thick glue type epoxy like Devcon Two Ton, daub it on and , put on a lure turner for an hour, then allow it to cure for a day.. Second, put dye in some UV cured polyester resin, daub it on and cure in a UV lamp or outside in sunlight for a few minutes.
  2. BobP

    wart blanks

    I second the Predator wart blanks. He worked with the factory to get them right.
  3. Recalling other TU posts about this, the only soft plastic - topcoat reaction I’ve read about is using concrete sealer as a topcoat.
  4. However, if you dip a polycarbonate or plastic lip in acetone, you may get a cloudy lip. Why not just brush it on where needed?
  5. I don’t store soft plastics and crankbaits together because it’s just not orderly, but epoxy is very chemically inert once it has cured and I’ve never seen or heard of reactions with it.
  6. Corey, sorry but you screwed up using 5 minute epoxy. It cures too fast to brush without bubbles, turns brown quickly from uv light, and is water resistant, not waterproof. Eastman03 listed a bunch of brands that all yield good results. They break down onto two basic epoxy types. Slow cure glue or Rod thread epoxies like Devcon 2 Ton that yield thick one coat topcoats, and bar top/decoupage/casting epoxies like ETEX (Envirotex Lite) which are usually modified with solvents and yield a thin coating that requires multiple coats and longer cure times.
  7. Every case of ballast weight is different and depends on the density of the crankbait material and how you want the bait to perform. A good place to start is to closely examine a commercial bait you want to copy and make yours similar in terms of total weight, line tie and hook hanger placement, lip size/shape and angle, etc. In my experience, most commercial wood baits are ballasted with belly hangers molded into lead ballast plugs, which simplifies construction. In the above plastic bait that Travis posted, the same principle is applied with the ballast in front of and behind the belly hanger. Once you get a good performing copy of a successful commercial bait, you can experiment with that design in later baits to get some interesting variations,
  8. Eastman03, there’s an art and a specific technique to using epoxy and it differs according to the brand. Envirotex Lite, aka ETEX, is quite different from Devcon Two Ton. ETEX is a pre-thinned bar top - decoupage epoxy while Devcon is a glue. As for applying heat, that also falls into the “art” category. Warming ETEX before brushing may be ok, though I personally don’t see a need for it. Heating an epoxied lure is also ok or maybe not. If you heat a freshly epoxied lure enough it will expand the air in the wood, forcing it out into the finish. So if you want to heat the lure, do it before epoxying. Also, a lure turner running in a box gently warmed by an incandescent bulb might work fine and shorten the cure time considerably. You can also use an alcohol burner passed quickly over fresh epoxy to draw out any bubbles (breathing on the epoxy can do the same). For me, heat is another variable and the fewer variables there are, the better I like it. The best technique I know of for epoxy, or any finish, or for any crankbait build step: have some patience. Haste makes waste. Measure and mix epoxy well and it will cure hard in its on time without further help.
  9. I personally have never used KBS, but use Dick Nite MCU, which is much more “touchy” regarding curing in storage than KBS. KBS is more forgiving but you can still take measures to preserve it, like spraying the container with Bloxygen, decanting it into mason jars and double sealing the jar with plastic wrap, or even using the “tap the can” method of storage/dispensing it. All of these methods are often used with Dick Nite. You can also add a solvent to KBS if it begins to thicken (don’t know which, but somebody here does). So yes there is concern about MCU curing in storage but many guys still choose it because of ease of use and great performance. And when I say I ease of use, I’m also thinking there are many fewer ways to screw up a MCU topcoat than an epoxy one. Having screwed up a lot of topcoats in my time, that’s a consideration, especially if you are new to this. I still use Devcon on a few specific lures and after 20 years, I’m confident using it. But for most lures, most of the time, MCU is a winner.
  10. Guys develop their own procedures for topcoating with epoxy, including me. I’ve never had much luck applying heat to epoxy, and doing it has resulted in a few disasters for me. Heat makes epoxy cure much faster. Heat Devcon Two Ton enough and the brushing time shrinks from several minutes to less than one minute. If I want to thin Devcon to make it brush easier, expel bubbles, and extend the brushing time, I mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol after the epoxy is mixed. You really want a lure turner if you use epoxy. KBS moisture cured urethane is popular because you can simply dip and hang lures to drip/dry. No mixing, no brushing, no lure turner. It’s performs as well as epoxy in terms of hardness and toughness and does not Yellow like epoxy can sometimes do. Player’s choice.
  11. Putty has a density similar to cedar or basswood so while I doubt it has the 4000 lb strength of Devcon, it’s pretty strong. I use putty to repair slots I’ve had to cut oversize to remove broken lips and I cut slots in the rear of lips to enhance grip strength. So far I haven’t had any failures, so that’s really all I can say about strength. It is a neat fast repair. Not as ideal as a perfectly cut slot but.....
  12. Easy fix. Get an epoxy putty log at your local home center. It has a clay like consistency when mixed. Fill the whole slot with it, then press in the lip and smooth out the margins, wipe off any squeeze out. In 2-3 minutes it’s done and dusted.
  13. BobP

    split ring size

    Corey, look for Predator Bass Baits, or take a look at the crankbait providers list at the top of this forum.
  14. BobP

    Devcon 2ton ??

    Devcon (and most other epoxies) can be applied over most surfaces including polyurethane or acrylic varnishes without problems. You can reapply epoxy as soon as the first coat has hardened enough not to move or sag. For Devcon, that’s about an hour. There is no need to sand between coats.
  15. BobP

    split ring size

    One thing that helps is using good split ring pliers. I’ve used Texas Tackle pliers for years and many consider them top of the heap. Very rarely get tweaked or open rings with them. However, I just saw a YouTube video about a guy who bought some on Amazon and got cheap Chinese knockoffs. Either knockoffs or the Texas Tackle folks have sold out! So I’m hesitant to recommend them unless you buy direct from the he company.
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