BobP

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BobP last won the day on January 8

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats
  1. Cutting the bill slot

    I stretch a thick rubber band, the kind they use on supermarket produce, over the nose and mark the line. Then cut it with a thin fiber reinforced Dremel cutoff disk.
  2. Tacky Etex

    Agree with the above 100%. Do you think the hardener and the resin weigh exactly the same per volume? I don’t know. So recommend you get a couple of epoxy syringes and use them instead. If the manufacturer says to measure equal volumes, follow their direction. They formulate the product so that, if you follow the directions, there will be the proper amounts to form molecular bonds with no unbonded part left over.. If you don’t, there will be an excess of one part that never gets bound and voila, sticky epoxy. You also have to mix very thoroughly to get the hardener and resin in contact at the molecular level. A couple of minutes of vigorous mixing ain’t too much.
  3. C-Grain Balsa

    Well, I didn’t know what that was until I Googled it and was served up a description from the Specialized Balsa site. I assume they sell it.
  4. Cracks in Bills

    Dipping in acetone won’t fix a crack because it can’t penetrate enough to get to the broken plastic inside. I don’t know of anything that will. I’d return them. If you monkey around with them, they’re yours forever.
  5. Nicely done. Re paint: Createx (and its sub-brands like Autoair) is the most popular airbrush paint for good reason. It’s available everywhere and it maintains a high quality standard and consistency. That said, there are many other brands including taxidermy paint brands that I mix and match with no problems. As for price, I think you will find that airbrush paint lasts a very long time because you are using very small amounts of it on a single bait. I buy the 4 oz bottles and as a hobby builder, only need to buy 2-3 bottles per year to replenish my paint box. To me, using non-airbrush cheap hobby paint is definitely penny wise but pound foolish since a lot of it will just not shoot reliably through an airbrush.
  6. 1/4 oz hotlips express

    That’s a shame! I really liked the 1/4 oz model. It is one of the few crankbaits that are very small but will run 12 ft deep. Now I’ll have to horde the few I have left!
  7. ETex topcoat problems

    I think your main problem is the 17 rpm. Etex contains solvent so is thinner and is more finnacky about fisheyes than glue type epoxies like Devcon, etc. Guys successfully use turners in the 1.5 to 8 rpm range. I agree with Anglinarcher about water based clearcoats. Several have been tried here on TU and none were found to be very durable or waterproof.
  8. Sealing Wooden Crank preferences

    My concern would be that the oil in the wood may eventually migrate into and discolor the paint unless an effective barrier sealer is used on the raw wood. I don’t use either so can’t really say if this is a factual or fictional problem.
  9. Best way to adhear a CB Lip

    I can never get a lip inserted with epoxy on it without scraping some of the epoxy off the back of the lip and onto the exposed lip. Also, I want the internal surfaces of the lip slot 100% covered in epoxy when the lip is installed to prevent eayer leakage. That’s why I prefer filling the slot with epoxy and pushing in a dry lip. No muss, no fuss, no exposed wood anywhere.
  10. Sealing Wooden Crank preferences

    I install all hardware except the lip before sealing. I mark a center line all around the bait to locate the hardware while the bait is still “square” and drill the holes before I begin rounding over and sanding the bait. So if I sealed the bait before installing the hardware, I would be fouling the drilled holes.
  11. Airbrush Question

    Not sure what needle lube is. I do the same thing with the light oil I use for reel bearings and also put a drop on the shaft of the trigger.
  12. Best way to adhear a CB Lip

    I cut a couple of slots in the back of the lip and also sand the hidden part of the lip with my Drexel. I use Rod Bond epoxy Paste to glue it in. Pack the slot with epoxy and push in the lip. Wipe off the epoxy that squeezes out the back of the slot. You don’t want a slot that is too tight because epoxy has a minimum film thickness for strength. I like the epoxy paste because it’s strong and has a very long work time, well over an hour, that lets me fiddle with lip alignment. It also will stay in the slot and not flow out.
  13. Debris In Topcoat

    Acetone is a very volatile solvent compared to lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol, so you really have to get after agitating the brush and spreading out the bristles in the solvent. The acetone will evaporate quickly and leave behind any epoxy that isn’t removed while submerged. I don't use acetone because I can’t store it for long in any jar or container except the can it comes in.
  14. T Trebles

    I troll un-teed wood cranks for stripers and yep, the hooks wear through to the wood through a thick coat of epoxy in a few sessions. I use high temper Japanese hooks so haven’t tried t-ing them lest they break. But it’s not a bad idea if your hooks will bend without breaking and you want to preserve the baits’ finish longer.
  15. Envirotex lite 30 min epoxy mixing

    Etex also contains a solvent to help it level out on flat surfaces. Being much thinner in viscosity than glue type epoxies like Devcon Two Ton, it will tend to develop fish eyes more quickly if applied over a grease spot or finger print. Suggest you read the tutorial by Fatfingers on “achieving the perfect finish”. I recommend measuring epoxy exactly with syringes and mixing the heck out of it. You need to get the molecules of all the resin and hardener in contact for them to chemically cure as designed.