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BobP last won the day on May 16

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats
  1. I haven't looked myself but I'd check Dick Nite's site. He manufactures spoons and sells his lacquer colors and MCU topcoats to TU members at a discount if you use the TU member URL to access his site.
  2. I think they are called blister packs
  3. Selecting The Right Epoxy.pdf
  4. I paint in the garage with the window open and a big exhaust fan running. Atomized acrylic airbrush paint that doesn't stick on the lure mostly becomes plastic dust. Not something you want to be breathing in large quantities but in and of itself, it's not toxic and a dust mask seems adequate protection to me if you are sensitive to it. Now if we're talking lacquer paint and/or other solvent based coatings, that's a whole other animal that calls for more protection.
  5. It's hard to say what exactly it is. If it's flecks of solid stuff, the DN may have started to cure or dry before you finished brushing the lure and brushing dislodged small flecks of hardened urethane before you finished. DN outgases its solvent very quickly (especially on a warm humid day) so you want to coat the lure quickly and then hang it up immediately to drip off any excess and begin hardening. I use a 1/2" flat nylon artist's brush loaded with DN and I "flood coat" the lure in a few seconds, then hang it over newspaper to drip/dry. Clean out the holes after it has hardened. DN is pretty unforgiving about how it is applied and handled after coating. If the "flecks" are actually small bubbles, the humidity may have been too high during coating. Regardless, the problem is esthetic, not functional. It's still durable and the fish won't care a bit.
  6. The Eclipse series is popular and Iwata makes great airbrushes. The eclipse uses a drop-in .35mm nozzle versus the screw-in nozzles used on most other Iwatas. The .35 nozzle is a good size for crankbaits as it will shoot pearl and flake airbrush paint without problems. There are Iwatas with smaller tips and ones that cost less or much more than the Eclipse but it is a very good "one brush for everything" brush.
  7. I understand. I don't build baits in a production setting, which is very different from a hobby setting. You need to worry about economy of scale and most of all the TIME it takes for you to complete the various build tasks. Most of the small scale production baits I see are painted with lacquer. The original Suddeth builders turned out a good bait and they refined their processes over time as they learned the ins and outs of specific build steps and which products to use. You need to do the same and learn the details from them. Otherwise you are going to have a lot of missteps. There may be new products and procedures you can integrate into your processes but first you need to learn everything about how "the originals" did it.
  8. I use acrylics vs lacquer so can't help much re thinning it. Whichever you use, My experience is that painting a crankbait uses very small volumes of paint, small enough that my focus is getting the paint on the lure in the most effective way I can for the paint scheme I want to produce versus worrying about the very modest cost of the paint. As far as chartreuse goes you can add small amounts of green into a yellow base to get any version of chartreuse you want. For me, I prefer a clean Createx Neon Yellow to a real chartreuse color and I think most of the commercial "chartreuse" baits I see are variations of plain yellow versus actual chartreuse.
  9. I don't see how you could effectively cure it unless maybe you used a special flash oven that would quickly heat the surface without heating the whole lure. I think typical powder has to be melted at over 300 F. And I disagree that powder has more colors than lacquer or acrylic paint. Good luck with it but color me doubtful.
  10. I think most of the sources cited here on TU have had very good customer service reputations and have been quick to replace defective blanks and make good on their orders. Realize that these suppliers are typically one man operations. If you have a bad experience with one, there's really not much recourse unless you paid with PayPal or are willing to contact your credit card company to cancel the payment. I wouldn't hesitate to do that if you think you have been treated unfairly or unethically, if things went exactly as you say. And no, this is not a usual practice among blank suppliers.
  11. I put a drop of oil in the trigger air inlet of my Iwata to lube the trigger components when I do a periodic thorough cleaning. So far it keeps me from having to disassemble the tiny trigger parts. So far.
  12. You're gonna have to disassemble the trigger components to see what the problem is, and work from there. There are several videos about the 105 on YouTube.
  13. Different airbrushes use different connectors. I got mine at a Sears store but any home or hardware store that stocks air tools usually has a supply of connectors, moisture traps, pressure gauges, etc. take your airbrush hose with you.
  14. I haven't seen any for sale. But you can make your own. I get props and buzz bait rivets. The rivets will force fit into the prop holes with a little effort and then I sand down the rivet shaft with a Dremel to get he length I want. They turn a whole lot easier than uncollared props.
  15. It looks like the TC20T comp pressures to 57 psi and includes a small air tank to keep the comp air flow from pulsing, so yes, I think it would work ok for an airbrush. Is it the best solution for your purposes? That depends on how quiet you need your comp to be and the environment it will be used in. I work in my garage where noise is not an issue so use a Porter Cable 135 psi tool comp with a 6 gallon air tank. It turns on to re-air the tank maybe once in an afternoon of painting and is small enough to fit under my work bench. It's too loud to use in the house or in a studio but fine in my garage. Most guys would say that more air pressure and the biggest tank you can get, the better off you are on a "cost to air basis" if the environment can accommodate it. Player's choice.