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BobP last won the day on February 11

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About BobP

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

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  1. BobP

    Clear Coating

    I’ve heard of a few TUers using BSI who said it works well. My take on yellowing is that will eventually happen to epoxy exposed to UV light. However, I’ve coated baits with Devcon that show no discernable yellowing after 3-4 years. If you measure it exactly and mix it very thoroughly, slow cure epoxies will be more resistant to yellowing. You can also find a few brands that contain UV filtering additives.
  2. BobP

    Clear Coating

    While I haven’t tried it myself, Alumi-UV is apparently a super tough clearcoat. It is a UV cured polyester, not cheap but it cures to a finished state in a couple of minutes under a UV lamp, like an inexpensive uv fingernail polish lamp. For hobbiest ease of use and speed, it seems hard to beat. Check out the product videos on the website. BankYanker, you want to use Slow Cure epoxy, not 5 minute quick cure epoxy. One that says 20-30 minutes to get to initial hardness. 5 minute epoxy cures too quickly to level out properly, is water resistant not waterproof, is weaker than slow cure, and is more prone to turn brown with UV exposure. If your epoxy is soft after its stated cure time, you either failed to measure equal volumes or mix it thoroughly. There are lots of good slow cure epoxies like Devcon Two Ton or Envirotex Lite. Flexcoat UV contains UV Filters. All slow cure epoxies require rotation until they reach a non-sag state, 45 mins to 2 hours depending on the brand.
  3. BobP

    Propionate users?

    I don't know a current small batch source but I believe the specific product name is cellulose acetate propionate.
  4. BobP

    Clear Coating

    If you have access to an auto paint booth and airbrush equipment, look no further than a catalyzed two part high solids auto clearcoat. I don’t feel aerosol can clears are tough enough for crankbaits. They are certainly less durable than two part auto clears, epoxy, moisture cured urethane, or UV cured polyester, all of which are good alternatives used by builders.
  5. BobP

    custom creative paint

    I don’t think you find more “natural” solvent based colors than in taxidermy lacquers, which have been custom formulated to paint animal, fish, and bird patterns.
  6. BobP

    Balsa sealant?

    Propionate works well but it has some downsides. First, it’s hard to find prop pellets for sale. A couple of TUers sold it years ago but not any more. Prop needs to be dissolved in acetone, onto a fairly thin solution. Then the lure needs to be dipped anywhere from 5 to 8 times to build a sufficient coating thickness, with pauses between dips to allow the acetone to flash off. Afterwards, you should let the coating sit overnight to fully harden. So it’s a rather labor intensive coating compared to most other options. But it does make a nice undercoating. If you are building a batch of 5-6 lures, you can dip lures almost continuously.
  7. BobP

    Devcon 2ton

    The red bottle is the hardener and it normally has a light amber hue. As it ages on the shelf, it will get darker. When mixed with the resin, the amber will be less conspicuous and applied in a thin coating on a lure, it virtually disappears. But yeah, epoxy almost always has a slight amber hue to it.
  8. BobP

    Balsa sealant?

    I often use slightly thinned Devcon Two Ton epoxy but there are choices as long as the coating is durable, hard, and waterproof.
  9. BobP


    X2 21xdc. Avoid the aggravation and use stencils for the details.
  10. BobP

    Repairing a balsa?

    No, it’s lighter than drywall mud. Used to fill small holes like nail holes, etc was in interior walls. The brand I use comes in a plastic squeeze tube.
  11. BobP

    Auto clear top coat

    When faced with a large number to coat, my gut feeling is it’s easier and faster to dip lures than to spray.
  12. BobP

    Repairing a balsa?

    I just use interior splackling compound. It’s light, dries fast, and is easy to sand. Finish it just like you would bare balsa wood.
  13. BobP

    Auto clear top coat

    The best auto clears are all two part catalyzed finishes. There are many choices but the only thing I can recommend is choose one with a high solids content. Of course, all these auto clears contain isocyanates (“cyanate” = cyanide) which can cause serious health problems if inhaled so you need a dedicated spray booth with filtered exhaust plus you must wear a solvent rated breathing mask while spraying them. if it were me, I’d just go the easy way and dip KBS.
  14. BobP

    Trouble with top coat

    After mixing the epoxy, I mix in a FEW drops of denatured alcohol until the viscosity is where I want it for brushing.
  15. BobP

    KBS on lipless baits

    I agree with azsouth about pooling. I favor hanging the lure in a position so all excess can drip off the tail. My lure turner runs at 6 rpm which is too slow to prevent MCU from pooling, or else I am too slow getting the lure on the turner so the MCU has already pooled some somewhere before I get it on there.