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BobP last won the day on December 3

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About BobP

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats
  1. Need Airbrush Paint Advice

    Createx and it’s sub-brands are popular because they’re widely available and consistent in quality, but there are other brands which offer specialized palettes for wildlife art including fish. I mix brands and often find paints among the taxidermy paint brands that let me shoot without a lot of blending, thinning, and layering of colors. The colors you choose are personal preference. Everyone needs white, black, red, green and blue. After that it’s up to you. Mix intermediate colors or buy shades,, pearls and flakes you can use without mixing. Among the Createx paints, I most often pick the “transparent” colors that allow you to layer paint for more natural looking fish coloration.
  2. Fragile Crankbaits

    I wouldn’t count on any surface finish product to correct an underlying fragile plastic bait problem. Were it me, I’d contact someone like Predator Bass Baits who has successfully ordered good quality custom plastic baits from Asia and discuss the ins and outs of getting what you want.
  3. Defective Blanks

    Yeah, I think one thing that happens is a small scale seller doesn’t get back to the buyer in what many of us would consider a timely manner. But remember who you're buying from. It’s often one guy with no retail experience working off of his kitchen table. There are many reasons he may not be able to whip a response back to you quickly. Job travel, family sickness, computer problem, etc etc. But I don’t find it good form for a seller to ask for photos to substantiate a problem before making good on a product complaint. An unhappy buyer is an unhappy buyer and needs to be remedied regardless.
  4. Lure consistency

    Well, I don’t think hand shaped lures can ever be perfectly consistent. But you can get close using a router table and safety templates to radius the edges. There’s a tutorial about that here on the site. I prefer using hand tools and a Dremel sander after marking all the round over and taper limits with a compass and removing most of the material with a good woodcarving knife. Some guys prefer rounding over with sandpaper glued into pieces of pvc pipe of the appropriate diameter. If you use hand tools to shape lures you have to develop a sharp eye to keep them symmetrical and consistent. That just comes with experience. But I think the key is to become very standardized and consistent with whatever method you choose. My last choice would be hand sanding with pieces of sandpaper. That has been the slowest and least consistent method for me.
  5. Gorilla Glue verses Eoxy for screw eyes

    I use a wire to fill the lip slot completely with epoxy paste then push in the clean lip. The excess epoxy pushes out the back of the slot where it’s easy to wipe off. If I butter the lip before insertion it tends to get scraped off the lip at the front of the slot and onto the exposed lip, which is harder to clean. I’ve also read that there is a minimum film thickness for epoxy to form its best bond, so you don’t want the slot too tight. Using paste epoxy, it really doesn’t matter how loosely the lip fits the slot because the paste doesn’t run like a liquid will. The paste I use cures VERY slowly. It takes about 5 hours to begin forming a significant bond and 12 hrs before you should handle the bait again. But I like the stuff. Experience teaches patience. Wait for glue and finish to dry/cure or screw it up. Once screwed, it’s hard to recoup a mistake.
  6. Gorilla Glue verses Eoxy for screw eyes

    I use slow cure epoxy on Lexan lips and hangers, ballast, etc. By name, U40 Rod Bond paste epoxy. Any slow cure epoxy will do but I like paste because it stays where you put it and cures slowly so I have plenty of time to fine tune the lip’s position. A batch of epoxy will have enough work time (about an hour) to do a large batch of baits. The only place I use quick cure epoxy is to glue the halves of balsa baits together that are split for thru wiring. You don’t want it anywhere it will show on the outside of a bait because it turns a dirty brown color, and it’s only water resistant, not waterproof. Not many glues like to bond well to Lexan. I sand the Lexan to give it some tooth and cut 2 slots in the rear of the lip to form a more secure “key” for the epoxy.
  7. Defective Blanks

    Ron, I meant nothing critical to your post. I was just commenting on the advisability of a “Call Out forum” on lure sellers.
  8. Defective Blanks

    I think this is a can of worms. Yes there are sellers that don’t pay enough attention to the quality of the blanks they sell, or take a defensive attitude when a complaint comes in, or who just won’t respond to a complaint. There are buyers who paid money in good faith for blanks they can’t use because of defects. Undoubtedly, most of the posts I’ve seen concerning this problem are valid complaints. But I don’t discount the possibility that a buyer can be unrealistic about what he is buying or too quick to publicly criticize a seller without contacting him to discuss the problem and ask for redress in a polite and businesslike manner. What’s fair? Does TU and its members really want to get in the business of arbitrating disputes when we only know one side of the issue? I’ve been burned a couple of times buying blanks. It made me wary of knockoff blanks from Asian sources, so I try to vet sellers as best I can and then seek opinions on specific lure models before I order. This can be a shady corner of the marketplace, so you pays your money and takes your chances, IMO.

    I don’t know how BentonB does his, but as a hobby builder I keep a library of body and lip templates and a notebook recording measurements, weights of components, wood type and coating details on each new crankbait design I do. That lets me reproduce a successful crankbait and gives me a base line of detail from which to experiment to improve a design. If I want to cook up a batch I made 5 years ago, I just refer to my recipe instead of my faulty memory (which NEVER works).
  10. Jackall Giron Swimbait

    That one is really sweet. Yum!
  11. cedar cranks

    I really like the way you faded the black stripes on the firetiger. Nice baits.

    Though it seldom ices over here in N.C., it is miserable fishing weather in January, February, and early March. The bass agree and unless you build crankbaits that dive 30-50 ft deep (ha ha) a true test to see what the BASS think of your lure is limited to seeing only what YOU think about it. I don’t consider that to be sufficient testing. But what I CAN do is build batches of baits that have proven fish catching ability, to have a supply on hand when fishing resumes. I can build those baits with confidence that they will conform and perform to spec. I don’t tune every crankbait before it leaves my hands. If a user doesn’t know enough to tune a crankbait, he really has no business throwing custom crankbaits. I buy custom wood baits and always expect to tune a new bait the first time I throw it, even if the builder thinks he did it for me. So to me water testing every crankbait I build is a moot point. Jmho
  13. Defective Blanks

    I don’t much like defensive blank sellers. But I’d also buy a few test blanks before springing for a big buy, regardless of past experience with that seller. It’s just the nature of the beast with generic Asian blanks that the quality can vary from very good to dismal. If he knows the quality is poor, he should take it up with his supplier and not stick his customers with the baits. If he knows. And if your complaint gets no redress, well, do what you think is best.

    There’s nothing saying that you can’t create the next great lure and give it a beautiful paint job too. There’s a wide array of interests among TUers. My main interest is making crankbaits that catch fish for me and my friends. But others concentrate on painting crankbaits as an outlet of artistic expression. No harm there. Still others seek acclaim and profit. No harm there either. Innovation is wonderful and I admire guys who are willing to put up with the hard work and repeated failures on the pathway to success. I don’t have the time or patience for that. I just want the satisfaction of making lures with my own hands from basic materials and then confirming my efforts by catching fish with them.
  15. Basecoat rattle cans??

    One thing to note. If you use MCU to topcoat your baits, you can get a solvent incompatibility between the basecoat and it causing the paint to wrinkle in some cases, especially if the basecoat is an enamel. Best to do a test before trusting it.