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BobP last won the day on October 15

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About BobP

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats
  1. I used slide rings on the handle of a micro rod and they work well. It allows you to adjust the reel’s position on the rod for best balance. Once I got the reel where I wanted it, I used linerless rubber electrical splicing tape to anchor the rings in place. Not sure that is required since the rings seem to hold the reel fairly securely but figured it couldn’t hurt.
  2. Archimedes Dunk Test

    I like to fish in cool weather which is Nov-Dec here in N.C. And one of my most productive presentations is a jerkbait that sinks slowly by the tail. It mimics the shad that are cold shocked. They slowly sink tail first and struggle to get to the surface where the water is warmer, and bass are attracted to this easy meal.
  3. Archimedes Dunk Test

    As water cools it gets more dense. A bait that suspends in warm water would float in cold water because it would be less dense compared to the increased density of the cold water. Conversely, a bait that suspends in cold water will sink in warm water. I often see statements that suggest exactly the opposite is happening. But if you read Dave’s last post you’ll see a finite example of how it works. When you get down to practical building, the sink or float differences are pretty tiny. I think the logical thing to do is build the bait to suspend in the warmest water you will fish it and use Suspendots or lead tape to add weight to the lure so it will continue to suspend in the coldest water you fish.
  4. Gulp cranks

    Don’t read Japanese and the photo has no attribution in English. Sorry
  5. Gulp cranks

    I googled Gulp cranks and among the pictures there is a (apparently) Japanese collector who shows about a hundred Gulp paint schemes, just FYI.
  6. Gulp cranks

    Honestly, every custom bait maker makes a lure that is virtually indistinguishable from the baits shown - particularly makers in Tennessee and N.C. The only way to tell them apart is the different finishes, which you seem to have a good handle on.
  7. KBS

    Google KBS Diamond clear. It’s sold at various online stores including JEGS.
  8. Clear coating in cold temperatures?

    I’ve topcoated with epoxy in my unheated garage in winter at 55 degrees with no problem. I believe epoxy will cure at any temp over freezing, it just will just take longer for the cure to develop than at the recommended “room temperature”. If you are concerned, put the bait on a lure turner on the dining room table at night after laying down a layer of newspaper, or hang it up by a wire somewhere after it has set to a sag proof state. I mix in a few drops of denatured alcohol to thin the finish after mixing the epoxy to make it brush better in cold temps. Also, about KBS and other MCU’s, I think the amount of solvent outgassed on a few lures is pretty minor and I don’t hesitate to bring them inside the house to harden a few minutes after applying the finish.
  9. Createx Airbrush Thinning?

    I don't know what an Iwata tech does to tune an airbrush, but it starts with factory new needle and nozzle and ends with a perfectly executed test shot to confirm these parts are fitted precisely to each other. I dropped a needle and bent it, had to order a replacement from Iwata. It did not perform as well as the original because I have no idea of how to tune an airbrush. The needles are made from ductile stainless steel. You can easily bend a tip If dropped on a concrete garage floor, it can bend 90 degrees. I assume tuning may include hand bending the needle shank and maybe using a fine abrasive to contour and polish the tip as necessary. But like I said, I don't know. A replacement needle or nozzle may work great out of the box but it's not guaranteed.
  10. Createx Airbrush Thinning?

    Yes, airbrushes are very simple machines with few parts but they are precision parts so you need to take care not to damage them, especially the needle and the cone or nozzle that the needle fits into. The better airbrushes including most of the Iwatas are tuned by factory techs to spray a nice consistent pattern. If you drop and bend the tip of the needle (which is made of somewhat soft stainless steel) or split the nozzle/cone by forcing the needle into the tip too hard, you have a problem airbrush. You can order a new part of course but can you tune it so the new part will perform as well as as the original? Probably not. And those tiny precision nozzles on some of the Iwatas are quite pricey.
  11. Prepping plastic for paint?

    Mark's is a good quick and easy system. Alternatively, you could lightly sand the plastic or use a plastic/paint adhesion enhancer aerosol. JMHO, if you're dealing with acrylic latex paint over plastic, what really keeps the paint on there is the lure topcoat. If it is breached, the acrylic paint will begin to reabsorb water and will eventually push the finish off the lure. In my experience it really doesn't matter much how or even if you prep the plastic for paint as long as you remove any oil or contaminants from the surface before starting. Dipping in acetone is as good a way to do that as any.
  12. Createx Airbrush Thinning?

    Ddl, airbrush cleaner is not reducer. It contains chemicals to soften hard paint deposits in an airbrush that accumulate over time and I haven't heard of a home brew or reducer that works like a soak in actual cleaner. Good daily cleaning with water and acetone help keep my airbrush working but after a few months I have to soak mine in airbrush cleaner overnight to get it really clean and working like new. A popular home brew reducer contains Pledge floor polish, which itself contains an acrylic polymer to enhance the wear quality of the product. It works great as a reducer BUT the acrylic polymer it contains is really strong and in my airbrush it tends to get into the needle packing. Drying overnight, it welds the needle in the packing so hard that I had to use pliers to break the needle loose. Also, you need to use the home brew when you spray the paint, not as an additive to a bottle of paint because paint stored with that reducer tends to precipate its color particles into a very hard sludge that no mixing will ever get back into suspension. So I stopped using it. I'm not an airbrush "artiste", more of a spray and pray painter that uses paint templates for detail. I rarely reduce paint and I use lots of taxidermy acrylic paints which generally come prethinned to shoot right out of the bottle. For Createx paint, I turn up the air pressure versus reaching for a reducer.
  13. Badger, 480-1 million air opinion?

    I've never used an oiled comp but many have. As long as you have a filter to remove any oil in the air line, it should be ok. If oil gets into the paint, it causes adhesion problems like fisheyes, especially with any topcoat you may put over the paint. Check to see if any oil is in the air line, check the filter, etc.
  14. Top coat question

    I think most of the WP knockoffs have soft tail fins like the original. I would be thinking in terms of dyeing the soft plastic instead of painting it, if I did anything at all. After all, fish tails are usually clear translucent. I have several originals. On all but the black WP, which is all black, the tail cones are painted body color while the fins themselves are mostly clear translucent soft plastic with or without a little red dye accent on their tips. The soft plastic is pretty hard stuff. I don't know how much it really collapses when bit, but I suspect not much. I wouldn't be using water based paint and any hard topcoat on them.
  15. Tuning baits before or after paint?

    I don't tune baits until I fish them. I don't sell baits but the guys I give them to know they'll need tuning before use. Basically I feel anyone that fishes a custom wood bait should know how to tune it. If it's a kid, I'll tune it before he gets it. in my experience, it doesn't matter if it's tuned before or after painting and topcoating.