Jump to content


TU Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


BobP last won the day on May 8

BobP had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,237 Excellent


About BobP

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Summerfield, N.C.
  • Interests
    Bass fishing, lure making, tackle, boats

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Yeah you can thin acrylic latex with water. No foreign hook brands? Three of the best are Gamakatsu, Owner, and VMC. All are foreign. You can order bulk on Amazon but they are usually ‘no name’ from Asia.
  2. Hey I don’t know what’s in brush cleaners or windshield washer fluids but I think brush cleaner contains emulsifiers intended to soften and loosen hardened paint from internal passages in a brush as it is soaked for some hours. I don’t think using it as a between-color flush is optimal considering its cost so your idea of using windshield fluid instead is a good one. But I’d still soak my brush several times a year in cleaner to insure function.
  3. BobP

    Airbrush paint.

    There are 3 basic “good to go” topcoats used by most hobby builders. Slow cure epoxy, moisture cured urethane (MCU) and uv light cured polyester resin. KBS Diamond is a MCU and is very popular.
  4. Yes, if you use a TRANSPARENT red acrylic paint or a red dye.
  5. I clean the sanded edges of polycarbonate lips with a q-tip dipped in naphtha and it doesn’t cloud the lip. I’ve no idea what primer you use, but since naphtha is a mild solvent, it may work.
  6. I agree with 21xdc, but recommend taking a look at uv cured polyester resin too. Either allows you to simply dip into a one part finish and is as tough or tougher than epoxy. I never liked epoxy on metal because it thins out to almost nothing over any sharp edge and then chips off quickly. Once a topcoat over acrylic chips and exposes the paint, the whole paint job begins to delaminate. btw, those are wild and wonderful jigs. Nice work.
  7. I’ve painted jigging spoons with acrylic latex glow paint and topcoated them with moisture cured urethane. No special technique or procedure required and the spoons have performed flawlessly for years. I used Dick Nite Fishermun’s Lurecoat MCU, not KBS but don’t know if that matters. If you use lacquer paint, it is more like a factory finish but acrylic worked just fine for me. Lacquer is thinner and tougher though. With acrylic the finish lasts exactly as long as the topcoat protects it from water infiltration. Lacquer is waterproof, so maybe more durable. But MCU is a very tough topcoat and protects paint better than any other coating on metal. If you want to go that way, Dick Nite sells the lacquer colors and MCU he uses on his own line of spoons. Good luck with it.
  8. That’s a nice paint job. Would it have worked to spec if made from balsa vs Azek? The first wake bait I tried was with basswood and it was hard to get the flotation I wanted with the additional props and shafts installed. Then I switched to balsa or paulownia, no problem.
  9. 3/4 oz jig head with a Keitech soft swimbait.
  10. Dipping is the fastest way to do baits in volume and an MCU like KBS is probably the most durable topcoat you can dip. Faster than spraying, much faster than brushing.
  11. Try it if you want, but after monitoring many 1K clearcoat threads here on TU for years, I’ve never seen results that were acceptable compared to the several proven coatings: epoxy, moisture cured urethane, uv cured polyester resin, or 2k catalyzed auto clears.
  12. Yes, the gloss is about the same as epoxy and its very clear. It’s manufactured in China. Hardness would have to be scientifically tested but It seemed harder than epoxy when drilling the topcoat out of the hook hangers, so that’s just anecdotal info.
  13. I just used some cheap “Lets Resin” brand uv resin off Amazon for th first time to topcoat a batch of baits and here are my observations. You don’t necessarily need a lure turner. The resin is fairly thick and I brushed it on with no bubbles using a cheap fine bristle nylon artist brush, which I cleaned afterwards with lacquer thinner. The resin did take some time to harden completely in a fingernail uv curing light box (also from Amazon); about 30-40 minutes, which is much longer than some other resins that can harden in 2-3 minutes. The resin was crystal clear, slick and very hard once cured. I was happy with the result. And yeah, it’s at least as tough and waterproof as epoxy.
  • Create New...