dark star

Automotive acrylic's easiest to use,water based acrylics safest(auto-air) to use but take a bit to get the hang of and will still require some kind of clearing system ,like an an automotive clear.Stay away from the 2 pack .Make sure you use a proper Paint Spray Respirator

liquidlust@matilda.net.au Chasing 1 lb .Thanks

You will not be able to make another master off your current mold its rooted,you will have to start from new,about the only thing you can do is gut the middle of the mold out on one side, fill it in with clay and place your master in,this will save alot of work without having to set up inlays and sprue holes etc.And yes you can make other molds of a master mold.

Thanks for the great comments guys.Swede its 7 inch long i made it out of white beech the design is still a works in progress eventually i will make a mold and go to casting the body.I have been playing around with dual towing points before they seem to bring around a bit of a change in action and diving depth making the lure a little more versatile.It was my first attempt at using foil on a bait came out ok i think.

Hi,working on a prototype.This one is 7 inch timber body with foil finish.I tried posting it in the gallery but unsure if it worked as i had my pc crash on me.Just click the link below http://img231.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imag00142oo.jpg

Really depends on what you want to do and how much money you are willing to spend.I recommend doing a search of the TU data base,in the meantime a lot of guys use the paasche AB or the Badger Anthem both are double action which is preferred.Compressors well you don't have to purchase specialized airbrush one which are expensive and limited to only using with an airbrush,.I think most half decent compressor's will do but it has to have regulators on it so you can adjust the air pressure down so you don't blow your brush up.Guys on the board can be of more help as to what is available on your local market and what they use,and make sure you get a water trap or even two on the airline. Regards Andrew

Lol,no its 8 kms off shore at a place called Magnetic Island its reef out front with mud flats behind leading to the mangrove lined shore .The reef is pretty shallow but it has alley ways that lead into dead ends as they hit the mud flats the pelagics school up there waiting for the tide to get high enough so they can move onto the flats to feed,we just sit back a bit and flick lures into them too easy they have already worked themselves into a feeding frenzy.that was about a year ago The problem now is that there has been a lot of changes to the fishing zones you cant fish anywhere decent the whole industry up here is going bust because of politics,the crank bait manufacturers are going to the wall because of soft plastics and those horrible chinese lures that people like Rex Hunt put there name to 99% dont even swim.In Australia there is no such thing as consumer loyalty they couldnt give a rats ass .Its Fubared

All the Australian lure manufacturers that cast bodies with urethane for example featherlite mold the lips into the body if you have a look at the mold pics i uploaded you will see that, before products like featherlite came along they used blown foam same as what you are using now and they molded the lip into the body as well , the part of the lip that enters the body will have a hole i preferred a square hole that the foam can go through to retain the lip inside the body ,they have been doing it since the 80"s and i have never seen or heard of a lip pulling out . i have caught barra up to 140 cm and giant trevally to 115cm.I have cast my lure into schooling trevally, queenfish,and spaniards caught anywhere up to 30 fish in one sitting using one lure and the lip was fine.

I cant suggest any one lure ,maybe one of the Rapala;s could do what you ask.Have a look at the hard bait photos section see if there is a lure there that you think might fit the bill and pm who made it they could help you out

I really think you will get much more satisfaction and gain a lot of knowledge from making your own molds.The links Woodsac posted should get you well on your way another link i have supplied will give you the basics on mold making.Also i suggest doing a site search there are many posts on making molds with various materials such as casting resins and rtv for example ,also there are some excellent posts by Art Brush on how to make a two and four part molds(for a hollow bodied lure) the mans skill is quite amazing.Feel free to pm in regards to making rtv molds i have made up a few http://www.luresonline.com.au/

Apparently he uses Flexcoat,the Gel coat term they use is just for marketing

I was hopeless at painting eyes i am to shakey,what i did was make up stencils for spraying eyes on,i made stencils out of thin stiff plastic packaging material like you find on those clam shell packages ,on a timber lure i would lay the plastic over a sacrificial lure blank then hit it with a heat gun till it starts to wilt then manually push it down with a pencil to help it shape to the lure then use a hole punch to cut the eyes shape out,with a plastic lure it is even easier put a lure blank in one half of the mold put the plastic sheet on top same with heat gun then get the other half of the mold and put it over the blank and push down it makes a perfect stencil that covers one half of the lure then you can cut whatever design you want to spray .

That pretty well sums it up for the key registrations ,only to marry up both sides equaly,I syringe inject the urethane and i would use rubber bands to clamp the molds together nothing fancy.So my process was prepare molds with a spray of thinned beeswax or paint enamel or acrylic ,place the bib and figure 8's in ,clamp the molds together with rubber bands.For the urethane i would have little mixing cups and a syringe in front of each mold in the cup would have the required amount of Part A with Qcell for bouyancy.Then i would go along with a big syringe full of Part B squirt in the required amount into each cup 50:50 ratio ,mix it then suck it up with the other syringe and squirt it in the mold,i would work down the line till i did the last as i was going down the line i would reach back a couple of molds and knock the caps off the sprue holes to let some gas and urethane out so the cast didnt flash the seams.I would make up a stack of the Part A in little cups before hand and bring them out as needed,You can clean the syringes out in thinners and get a few uses out of them until they start sucking in air around the plunger seal>the urethane i used could be demolded in about 5 minutes .I hope that helps

What ppl have to keep in mind as well is that i was only getting paid $6 AU per unit which is about $ 4.60 USD.Alot of work for bugger all

I had a good rep for my durable paint work as far as lures go