Nimrod

No - if you want to make lead shine on purpose - add silver, and keep your liquid temperature under 700? - This causes the silver to convect to the surface of your lead mixture (which sounds like it is from wheel weights). Lead by design will oxidize rather quickly in atmospheric air (50% or higher humidity) - causing it turn that dull grey color. Scratch that top coat and you get shiny lead again........for awhile. Can you add pure zinc? Sure, but silver is much easier and you don't need other catalysts to make the reaction. Where do you get silver? Got a local plumbing house? Home improvement store? They sell rolls of soft solder (Sil-Stay) that have percentages of silver in them. It melts quickly, but also leaves you with that same light grey, almost plastic-like by-product............................................. Don't worry, it will go away if you increase your tin percentage................... That stuff sure is sticky isn't it...........makes for weak lead molds too.............bet you get powdery/porous lead if you were to squeeze one of your molded heads with a pliers.................. BTW - if that "lead-like" stuff was indeed wheel weights, are you certain they didn't have a plastic coating over them?The newer weights all seem to have it on - supposed to protect to clearcoat on the wheel(?) That's another possibilty that will give you "slurpy" liquid lead. Not to mention a real headache to pour properly.

This thread is exactly what I refer to in regards to having a true understanding of the metal, lead. First off - nova, I apologize if I offended you in any way. It was not intended. I do not have any initials after my name stating my education level (Dr.), however I can assure you I spend more time studying technical literature then most college professors, doctors, or engineers even know exist. Secondly - topppher, your understanding of lead is way off base, enough so I feel compelled to correct it. "This is the most dangerous part of lead... inhaling it... " - You need to remove that mind set - forever. Here's why: Lead, as we know it for melting purposes, can be composed of all or some of these metals - Antimony, arsenic, copper, gold, silver, tin, zinc, and amounts of many possible trace elements. In order to have vapors, one must first reach the boiling point of a metal. Lead boils at roughly 1750?C (3182?F), I highly doubt you are heating lead to that temp. just to pour fishing lures. The fumes coming off your melting pot are from the other metals ? of which very few people know which they are dealing with. Sure they stink, may make some people sick to their stomachs (from other metabular issues), but have nothing to do with over exposure to lead. As was stated briefly, the concern with lead one should have is with physical contact (or ingestion). And this can be narrowed down even farther to lead dust being the primary concern. Lead dust, even though considered a heavy metal with go airborne. It?s this point in time that humans are at risk ? they can bring lead into the body via breathing, opening the mouth (the lead will settle inside the mouth then be ingested), through the eyes, etc. ?Washing up? becomes very important due to this situation. I?m still researching just how much risk one has in handling lead that is ?bright and shiny?. This is a form of galvanic action, which is a protective covering over the lead. The amount of "shine" or galvanize is directly proportional to the zinc content of the lead you are using. (among other more detailed circumstances) I cannot say that handling this type of covered lead is any more dangerous then handling a piece of galvanized corrugated roofing sheet(s), for certain - but I am headed that way Take this post for whatever you deem it worth. I?ve been behind a lead pot for the better part of 25 years now, from a mentor that I joke with and say he was born in a cast pot. (63 years melting lead). I felt it necessary that I understood exactly what I am dealing with (like what is that gold film that I skim off the top of the lead -or- why does my lead turn black when it stays above 850? for more then an hour?). This is what I found as factual information, not just someone saying, ?lead isn?t safe to work with.? Bottom line as far as I?m concerned: don?t eat it, don?t give it any opportunity to get in your body in excess, and don?t be scared of it. If you are, take the time to educate yourself with what you are dealing with. I feel there is a difference between knowing something and understanding it. To understand lead and it?s dangers, you have to understand other topics just as well.

Read carefully - I didn't say skin cancer was BS - I said what everyone blames it on is..................................

Once everyone gets past the lead safety BS, and truly understands what it takes to get sick from dealing with lead will you realize how foolish the whole topic of blood level is. You do realize the human body has a certain level of lead in it right? If so, you also know that the human body has it's own build in way of maintaining that certain level of lead. So, unless you're adding a few spoonfuls of split shot to your daily bowl of wheaties, you will find that your blood level tests will always come back the same. The other option is to accept what is being fed to you from the media, and worry yourself to death about something you have no control over. This ranks up there with skin cancer coming from the sun's rays in my book................................total BS.

Jeff - Sudden spurts of paint, then light paint, then nothing, then another mass shot of paint? Paint is too thick -or- air pressure is too low. I'd way toward thick paint....... Remember, you're atomizing the paint, not putting it on with a paint brush so it needs to be "loose".

You're missing a perfect marketing opportunity here. Since, (if it's legit) someone feels threated by your "mimic", I'd be calling mine: "Sweeter Beaver"

How do you apply Devcon? I've been using paint brushes, and it's beginning to get a bit expense. Also, is it normal to only get about 15-20 minutes of use out of a mixture of Devcon? It seems that much past this time frame, the mixture starts getting "stringy".

Nathan - keep your eyes open with Stamina. They are usually the highest priced of all the component supply companies around. Years ago that wasn't the case, but they have fallen behind.

Thanks for the #, Party Crasher - but Bob came up empty. These ice jigs (not blade style lures) molds are not made by Do-It or Hilts. I can find the lures already poured, but not the molds. They have to be out there somewhere............

I've been trying to find a supplier for ice fishing jig molds - no luck. Can anyone get me in the right direction?

What about small dowel rod pieces. You can set these in from the back, postion them so the lure sits correctly (even on angles if done properly), and don't have the agony of drilling into your artwork. I believe you may be able to even hide them inside your hook holders and under the lips. The lures can be removed, studied up close, and placed back in their respected spot. Another option would be a magnet. Get a magnet sheet, cut to the size of the shadow box, cover with felt, and let the hooks hold 'em in place. Make sure the magnet sheet is strong enough to hold the lures

Check your local craft stores. I've picked up "micro-fine" glitter in the kids craft isle(s). This is more dust then it is glitter. Takes quite a bit when mixing w/top coat.

Edit - bad info. Made a call to the IRS to get my facts straight - I was off. The 10% excise tax is the responsibility of the manufacture of the raw material, the seller of the raw material, and the seller of the end product made with the raw material. In other words, if you are selling something with a hook on it you you need to be filing for the excise tax - no matter where the supplies came from. You file Form 637 to get an exemption for this tax from your supplier. As far as being a sole proprietor, it's a mess. What I thought was a loophole has closed - You must file a Form 720 if you are selling fishing equipment. Since this form requires an EIN#, you must apply for an EIN# even though you have no employees. Then since you have a # on file under Form 720, you can file Form 637 for an exemption. Monthly statements need to be filed, etc. Clear as mud? Sorry if I caused any confusion from earlier posts, this information was straight from the source.

This is a manufacture's excise tax - stemming from the use of raw materials. If you make a lure and sell it, you are responsible for the tax. But, there's two loopholes in the tax: 1) if you bought your supplies and don't have a tax number on file with your supplier - you paid the tax. Your supplier is now responsible to file for it, not you. Now, if you purchased with a # on file - you received a 10% discount from your supplier, which is the excise tax that you are now responsible for. 2) In order to file for the tax, you fill out Form 720. You must have an EIN# (Employee Identification Number), this means you have employees for this form. As a sole proprietor you don't have employees, which means you don't need an EIN, therfore can't fill out a Form 720. See the catch? It's easier to let your suppliers charge you the 10% - it's less hassle for you, and a wash when it comes to net $$$.

powder is not an option for detailing.