mhurocy34

Thanks, now I know. I thought that the end results from pouring lead were a bit "wrinkly", and I did try this smoking with the tiki candle when I got home yesterday, and did notice a bit of an improvement. That really helped. Miklos

Great idea, I will do that, AND it will keep the bugs away!!! But still, no answer... What does blackening or smoking the molds do? I'm going to find out anyways as soon as I get home and try it out. I am assuming that the soot from the smoke fills the pores on the mold, thus giving you a marble like surface, or at least a very smooth surface? Miklos

I've been using Spike-it brand powder paints, about had it with dipping in vinyl for the time being. It's messy, sticky, stringy, and I don't much care for the strange feelings of euphoria even with a mask after using it. As far as that goes, I'm going to acrylics eventually anyways. However, I am getting the hang of powder paints, I cure a few that come out bad, they tend to bulge at the bottom but I think that is because the coat is just a bit thick, but I am using the kitchen stove. Which is getting a lot of my lure making use, actually I use it more than my wife. Anyways, does anyone else use Spike-it or is everyone here a pro-tec fan? I'm quite happy with the results, from time to time, however, one lure that doesn't cure right is nasty to clean up. MEK doesn't even remove the stuff. Mik

I thought that might be the process, however, you could also pour it into a machined alluminum block that is cut to the depth, length, and width, pour it, and "blade" off the over pour, however, taking into consideration that there would be an entirely different process in actually pressing the stuff so it reacts properly when you cut it, that's a different animal all together, oh well, I'll just keep buying the stuff.

Okay, I'm just getting started, read about every post, and this is new to me. What does this mean, and why do you do it? I heat my molds on the kitchen stove to avoid the hot lead hitting cold molds, since I pour in my garage, which is not insulated, and the highs around here have been in the low 30's the last few days. What effect does this have on the lead after it is poured? My jigs come out very shinny, but a little course, not marble finish, but they paint up well. Mik

Don't know, but I'd like to know if anyone knows how to pour this stuff. Skirting material is one of my biggest expenses, I could save cash after the initial investment of setting up my own way to pour skirt material.

Hmmm. Think of it.... a lure that bites the fish. I like it. just don't let Peta know your doing that. There is a conservation lake close to my home that stocks Muskie. I could use one of those biting lures, a nice one took a rather expensive top water from me last year. He's probabbly still swimming around with it in his mouth. Miklos

I just checked out Createx's site, and really like what I saw. I purchased the 12 pack sampler of vinyl paint from lure components, and instead of brushing, I'm dipping. I am currently in the process of mixing up some 1/4 and 1/8 ounce roundheads. I am going to switch to the createx after I sell that batch I'll probabbly have around 1000 when I'm complete since the vinyl tends to go a long way when dipping. I figure at .89 per 10 pack, I'll make enough play money for a decent airbrush and a good set of paints. Anybody use createx for dipping? I know the airbrush is highly recommended, but I am in the process of moving, and don't really have the facilities for a decent paintbooth at least for 6 months until the new home is completed. Haven't even made a good dipping system yet, just dip each one by hand and wait a bit. Stole the wife's hairdryer to move up the process though. She wasn't too happy, but I replaced it anyways, (She will be a bit annoyed when she realizes it's the good old black and decker heat gun ) Anyways, I'm going to buy a small bottle this week, and make a few of my own to test it out. Any recomendations for a good clear coat that is durable? Miklos

Hello, Been doing this for a few weeks now, and working with both vinyl and powder. I like the vinyl because of the ease, but have been brushing it on (not air, just paintbrush). I'd really like to switch from vinyl to createx for leadhead jigs, is createx a good replacement for vinyl? I have recently started dipping vinyl, and it is a slooooooooooow process, actually tempted to go back to the brush. Miklos

Maybe this is in the wrong forum, I feel it belongs in plastics, but I'm going to give this a shot here, since skirts are an issue aswell. I'm making and selling a few jigs that I pour myself, and have been going over costs recently. I'm spending some cash on Living rubber skirting material, that is actually no different from the regular flat color stuff except for the glitter, and price of course. I can save some money if I purchased glitter and glue, and the plain skirts, and glittered them up myself before cutting them. Has anyone tried this with success, I'm looking for a spray aerosol type adhesive that is water resistant, that will hold the glitter about as well as the living rubber does (lot falls onto your hand anyways), but not so adhesive that it makes the skirting material brittle or cakey (?). It should be clear on, and clear when dry as well. I found some extremely fine glitter at michael's a craft store here in Missouri, but don't want to experiment with my money first, would rather have a good direction to go in before buying adhesive that won't get used if it's worthless for the purpose. I was thinking of a good liquid adhesive, even thought about head cement, a teaspoon in a plastic bag with the skirt, and the glitter, a few good shakes, and maybe it would work. Miklos

I bought 10 pounds of lead ONCE, and only once, if you feel you would rather buy it then go ahead. Here's what you can do if your inclined. My situation, I'm a Police Officer in North County Missouri (the hood north of St. Louis). Cops shoot guns, and shoot them a lot! A neighboring police department has a Mobile Range Trailer, and they train there quite often. This scrap from the firing days is sorted, and usually tossed, with the exception of the brass. If you know any police in your town, and they have a firing range, I'm sure that they will be happy to drop some of the spent lead for you. Usually find out who the firearms instructor is, because he is responsible for disposal or means of disposal with this stuff. The more you take off his hands, the more he will give you. I usually run by the trailer once every 2 weeks, get a bucket full of spent lead, and I'm set. JUST SORT THE STUFF! My only bad experience... One evening I was melting my prize , and during the sorting event the night before, an unfired round got overlooked (this can happen). I put about 3 cups of the bullet remains into the pot, and allowed it to melt down. I heard a bit of hissing, so I stepped to the driveway from my workbench, (about 20 feet away), lit up a smoke, and assumed there was going to be a moisture pop, because the lead was dug out from under snow. I did dry it with a heat gun before dropping it, but assumed I was not that thorough in the process. Well anyways, I heard a little "pop", and felt it safe to return. I went back to my bench, and no less than 2 seconds after putting my faceshield back down, there was one loud burst, and almost every drop of lead that was in the pot blew out, spraying me across the jaw portion of my faceshield, and coating the front of my military jacket (luckily) I did not get any injuries, I had some neat patterns sprayed on the wall, bench, and even the ceiling. I immediately unplugged the pot, and took a seat on my front porch thanking God that I did not burn half my face off. After the lead began to cool, I started straining the remains out, all that was found was a brass casing to a Federal Hyrdashock .40 calliber round. The bullet was gone, the primer was still intact, and there was a huge bulge on the side with a BB sized puncture which indicated that the material inside (gunpowder) had been blown out. There was a small dent on the inside of the pot after I scraped it out, and I recovered the spent bullet portion on the floor while sweeping up. So in other words, if you get lucky enough to get free lead from a police department, search it wisely. Anyways, it is a good way to go. I still get my free lead, but take much more precaution in the process. Mik

I have just started jig making, and really enjoy it. I had the problem also with powdercoating the weedguard hole plugging shut. I'm still experimenting with a few ideas to fix it, so far, a q-tip seems to work great, just remove enough cotton to fill the hole, and jab it in there before baking in the oven, (350 at 15 minutes), that will be sufficient. ALSO>>> before you do this, dip the q-tip in baby oil, or vaseline, this will reduce it burning, or getting crispy in the oven, this does work, and it makes the wife happy (g). Also, don't use the plastic ones, the cheap paper ones will work great. I'm very new to this board, and haven't read all the posts, but if you powder coat, and it turns out POOR, soak the lure in M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone), if you are not familliar with this, it will eat the paint off of ANYTHING!!!! it runs about 15.00 for a 2 gallon can at the local hardware store, and a little goes a long way, it evaporates quickly, and it is absorbed quickly into your skin, so use skin, and eye protection when using this stuff. MEK is strong fume wise, so use it outdoors, don't smoke, keep this stuff away from flames, children, cars, family pets, and any ignition source, it is DANGEROUS. Have plenty of airflow around it. I did a lot of industrial painting in the past, and this stuff is awsome for metal, lead, whatever except wood preparation. If you use this on wood, the paint will never adhere to it. However, if you already attached any rubber or plastic dressings to the jig such as weedguards, the MEK will disolve the rubber, however, it works great for powder coat, and vinyl paint removal, just drop the jig, and stir it a bit. I actually wipe down all the lead jigs in this before I even paint them, the paint adheres better, and the powdercoating as well. Anyways, thanks for the welcome, and hope to have some custom work on the photo gallery soon. Miklos