Oncorhynchus_tshawytscha

Okay, for those of us in the South-Eastern Washington area, there is another type of drafting pen that is pretty much the same thing. Made by Staedtler, it's called a "Pigment Liner". The Walla Walla College Store carries them down to size .01 mm, and I think even smaller. Brock

This is just my two cents (I haven't even used E-Tex yet, since I would have to go to RiverMan's dusty little town to get it :grin: ), but wouldn't the hardener possibly be a bad thing? I mean, if you get something too hard (excluding diamonds, etc. . .), doesn't it become brittle? I was just thought of something . . . ah, here it is. At http://lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html (on the left bar, click Modifications then the bottom picture) they have a modification to a Shallow Invader from Musky Innovations. Would something like that work? I know it looks kinda weird/ugly, but I think it would keep the hooks away from the overcoat, wouldn't it? Brock (P. S., what the devil are you all talking about when you say you "T" your baits? I've never heard of the term, so I doubt I've been doing it.)

First off Chad, you have a really sweet looking bait there. I have been making some Grandma style baits using the stencils from Luremaking 101, and since the author didn't specify where or if there needed to be any weight, I just started adding lead dots until it worked the way I wanted. I then proceeded to weigh all the dots I used, then drilled a hole and added that much weight. I tried adding the lead holes right on the CG, but it worked better for me when placed behind the lip, and another behind the first hook hanger (splitting the total weight between two points). It tracks somewhat better now, but I'm still working on it. Hope that helps, and maybe some of the more knowledgeable luremakers on this site will be able to help us newbies Brock

wsswesty, Thanks a ton for your mini-tutorial. I think it's really going to help. One question though, where do you get the Polytranpar Transparent paint? Thanks, Brock

Hey everyone, I'm just wondering what paint colors you use when painting your rainbow colored wooden baits. I've seen some where the base looks to be white, then others with that "trout pink" as what I can only assume is the base. All that I have seen have a dark green (I think ) back, and a lighter colored belly. Basically, I'm just looking for a step by step tutorial of how you artists do it. (The reason I'm asking is that for most of the bass around here, rainbow trout fingerlings are the primary feed, as far as I have seen.) Thanks in advance, Brock

I have gotten all the materials I need to make a mold, except for the foam. With just turning 18 on April 10th, and not having a steady job, I don't have a credit card. My mother doesn't either, so it's kinda hard for me to order the foam. I'll just have to see if I can bribe my uncle into ordering it for me Husky, I printed out your tutorial, and I have just a couple of questions. Would it be possible to use a manufactured lure as a basis for a mold? Would I first have to coat it with epoxy? (I'm thinking of some of my great-grandfather's lures, that are no longer made, and the companies are probably out of business.) On step 7, can you explain a bit better? The picture doesn't really explain all that well. I think that's it, until I have more problems. Brock (P.S. I have been making a Divani's 10" Glider, and will post pics really soon.)

Hey everybody, As I get more into making my own baits, I have started to look at manufactured baits for inspiration. I started looking at my store bought lures, and noticed that most of them are plastic. (Bomber Long A, Heddon Clatter Tad and Magnum Clatter Tad, Luhr-Jensen Speed Trap, Strike-King Diamond Shad, etc.) My question is whether or not we (home lure-maker's) are capable of creating solid or 2-part lure bodies, in the same manner that the big companies do? Would it be possible to use a mold that is designed for foamies, and instead use something like Environmental Technologies Inc.'s Clear Polyester Casting Resin to make something lures that are see though, with holographic or reflective tape embedded somehow? I know I just asked alot of questions, but I'm always interested in new ways of making fish snacks Thanks for your responses, Brock

My mother went to high school with a local cabinent maker, and he let's me raid his scrap barrels, before he starts to use them to heat his workshop. I picked up quite a few pieces, not really knowing what they were. Well, I got to working with this really rich, brown colored wood. Turns out that it is black walnut; it was a pain in the butt to sand and shape, but boy, does it ever look nice when it's sealed! I have almost finished 3 of them, and I don't think they are going to work properly. I weighted them like I would eastern red ceder, and now they sink like rocks But I still have 2 that I haven't weighted or sealed yet, so there may still be hope! Brock

Robzilla, I have to agree with Windknot; the reverse bullet head style will flair the hair alot more. Or go with Bob Popovics Hollow Fleyes style of tying. You can find it in the February 2005 issue of Fly Fisherman (www.flyfisherman.com). The magnum hair stacker is nice, but have switched to synthetics, and taperizing scissors. I like Ultra Hair, Supreme Hair, and Strung Fuzzy Fiber. The last two are made by Hedron Inc. out of Stillwater MN. Hope that helps, Brock(current flytying freak)

Actually, most rulers have a metric side to them, so you could just start to use it. I have had to use the metric system because of the science classes that I have taken, and I find that the measurement system based on 10 is alot easier to work with, once you get used to it. I actually didn't even know about that site, but I will definately be spending some quality time there with the stencils they have Brock

Well, I didn't think anyone would answer me, so I went ahead and tried. And it actually worked! Now I just need to figure out if I need it thicker, and how many dips it's going to take for my cedar and 2x4 lures. One other question, does this work as a replacement for the first coat of Etex or Devcon 2-Ton to seal muskie and pike lures? And do I need to use Kilz 2 after I'm done with the plastic dip? Thanks for answering all of my questions, and special thanks to Tally and Husky for sharing this, and taking the time to make a tutorial. Next up on my projects list: Making a Bondo mold! Brock

Jed, It looks super nice. You must finally be feeling better if you are able to paint that well. I have got to drive south and pick your brain for a bit. Brock

What size is that bait? and how much does it weigh? It looks really good, if I was a fish I know I would take a bite Brock

All right, I think I got the exact same type as was used in the tutorial. It's made by Klean Strip, and is called Fast Thinner: Primer Grade. The number underneath the Klean Strip logo is GLW719. Okay, I just read the topic entitled "I Read about a plastic sealer..." that was posted by Husky. The new thinner I got says it "contains Alcohols, Esters, Ketones, Methanol, Petroleum Distallates." I know that methyl alcohol is, or at least I think I do But what the devil is Toulene? I've never even heard/read about it before. So did I get the right stuff, or am I going to have to return it to Shucks Auto Supply? THanks for everyones help with all of my questions, Brock

Tally, I'm not upset about it, and I don't blame you. The thinner I used can be used again on lacquer paints, and I will just go buy the right kind. The tutorial was great otherwise. But I still don't know how many cups I'm going to need for the solution to be correct in the pickle jar. Thanks, Brock

Yeah, I understand that, and before I got it to set right on the water, it would run fine, when I could get it to run of course. I have to get out to the lake though in order to test it.

Well, I just went to Home Depot and bought the only lacquer thinner they had. Tally said in his tutorial that "I am sure that there is a number of thinners that will work" and I took what he said as the gospel truth. Actually I thought that the Virgin Lacquer Thinner was just a brand name, and not an actual type of thinner. Well, I guess I'm going to have to go to Shucks, Al's Auto Parts, and Napa and see what they have. Brock

I tried to follow the tutorial, I really did. I went and bought the lacquer thinner that is made by Klean Strip, I got a big glass jar with a lid that seals, I even went and bought plastic cups that had a #6 inside of the recycling symbol. My problem is that I don't know how many cups to use, and when I should proceed to step #4. My container is an 2.36L (80 fl. oz.) glass pickle jar, made for vlassic Kosher Dills and I am using 16oz. semi-clear plastic cups from Wal-mart. I have used one pack (24 count) of cups, and the solution still won't turn milky white when I shake it. The jar is about 10 inches tall, and the melted cups are just sitting at the bottom in a big glop of goo (about 2 inches tall). Thanks for the help, Brock

I didn't add any weight as I built the lure, but I just got it to ride right in the water. It took 5 Suspendots along the center line back toward the rear treble. Then just behind the lip, I added an extra 4 dots in a circular pattern. So a total of 9 dots got it to set right. Now I just have to get my boat licensed so I can go fishing and try this bait out! Thanks for your suggestions, Brock

Hey everyone, I tested out my bait (see the attached file if you need a reminder), and as soon as it hits the water, it flips over on its side, and won't turn back over. On the other hand though, when I finally get it to dive, it has a nice, medium wiggle on it. I tried using lead dots on it, but it doesn't help any. I'm using 8lb. line, and the hook is a Mustad 3551, size number 4. I need to know what I did wrong, so I can try to either fix it, or try to make the lure over again. Thanks in advance, Brock

I tried to make a big Oreno out of poplar, but it was way too hard to use properly. Didn't realize that fact when I started. Brock

Jed, Are you talking about one of Worden's Original Flatfish, or one of the similar lures? Cause I would like to lend any assistance that I can. I actually just bought one from Steve's Archery and Fishing here in Walla Walla, pretty much because it was on clearance. It was either the M2 or the T50. I think it's made out of plastic however. Not sure how it would be in wood. Probably would have to be a really light wood, like balsa. Maybe pine or cedar. "The Complete Book of Lurecraft" actually has a couple of patterns that the author created to imitate or reproduce the action of a Flatfish. Brock

I just remebered that I had an old antique Pikie in my great-grandfathers fishing stuff, so I went and got it. It says "CCB CO (then underneath that) GARRETT IND" and Pikie on the top of the body. The makers cut the body in two, with a slight slant on both the left and right sides of the slot. They also slanted the left and right sides of the front of the tail. They cut a slot into the rear of the body, and inserted a piece of SS with a hole drilled in both ends of it. The slot and piece of SS are about 1/4" wide. They then drove a SS pin through the rear of the body, and into the hole in the small plate (the side of the plate that is inside the body, but has a drilled hole in it. The tail is connected to the body by taking a semi-closed lure screw, and hooking the eye through the drilled plate. The screw is then screwed into the tail section far enough that the opening in the eye of the screw is blocked, making sure to align the eye on a straight up-and-down axis. I really wish I had a digital camera, because it would be so much easier to explain, using pictures. Brock

Dragline, I don't have a lathe, so what I do is cutout the side and top profiles on the piece of wood that I'm using, then rough it to shape with a set of carving knives, and then sand it to its final shape. I then drill it to accept a through-wire rig, or at least deep enough to take a 3/16" by 1" SS cotter pin. I then cut the bait so that the body of the bait forms a hollow in the shape of a V. The tail should then fill the V that you just cut. The I install the wire or cotter pins, so that the tail will "wag" horizontally. Don't know if anyone else does it a different way. I actually got the idea from the Optimum AC Plug Minnow. (Page 77 in Cabela's Walleye/Pike catalog.) Brock

So when I use Kilz 2, I'm not actually sealing the lure? I started using it because someone here said it did both seal and prime. So do I need to epoxy first, then use Kilz? Hope I'm not doing anything wrong. Brock