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cadman

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cadman last won the day on March 9

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    Illinois
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    Fishing, and making fishing tackle

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  1. Welcome to Tackle Underground
  2. Oops, I'm sorry, I didn't know they had a different Midwest Finesse mold. I don't have that mold. I guess you can still check some of the things I mentioned above. BTW, how well do you do with that jig head? You can PM me as well. Thanks
  3. I made an order yesterday, and everything went through. I also received a receipt confirmation as well.
  4. Jig Man, I pour mostly hard lead in that mold in hopes of getting the keeper from loosening up and it doesn't help but I don't have lead going up the hook shank. Also I don't use Victory hooks. Couple things could make this happen. #1 The Victory hooks are thinner than the shank cavity in your mold leaving a gap and the hot lead is seeping through. If you have always used Victory hooks, maybe a new batch and the hooks are thinner or maybe a couple of hooks are thinner in the current batch? Just guessing here. #2 You have some lead or foreign substance on one of your mold halves that is gapping your mold causing lead to seep through. On the latter, take a single edge razor blade and lightly run the blade across both mold halves. This might dislodge any foreign substance that you may not readily see. Once done check your pour. On the first one, if you have a different brand hook check to see if you have the same problem. Post your results when you find your solution.
  5. Thanks for all the n input.
  6. Thanks For the info.
  7. Where do you guys get your plastic bags for 5"-6" Senko style baits. Need ziplok and so they won't leak.
  8. I use beads and tubes as well. If you keep the lower blade kind of in the middle of the wireform arm it works the best. You don't want it hitting the top blade and you don't want it to hit the body of the spinnerbait. What you have looks good. It will also depend on how big of blades you use top and bottom. I have attached some pics of some of the spinnerbaits I have made in the past.
  9. Very good information. Thank You. I can attest to the fact that worm weights are impossible to remove the pull pin from the center. Been there tried that. Also smooth jigs come out of the mold a lot easier than jigs with a lot of cuts and features, tried that as well. I wish I had known this a lot sooner but trial and error is the best teacher. Thanks Again for your info.
  10. Well thanks for the info. Yes Bismuth is easy to pour but tough to remove from the mold as you mentioned. Also tough to file the excess sprue material. I have had to literally dig out some bismuth heads from molds. Even "Drop Out" doesn't seem to help too much. It seems that lead shrinks some when it cools in the mold and bismuth seems to expand. Just my observation. Thanks Again f0or the info.
  11. I have and still use bismuth to create the same size jig except the jig is lighter. The difference between lead and bismuth is this: Bismuth is lead free especially for some states that require lead free jigs. You can pour bismuth at home without any problems, can't do that with tungsten. Bismuth is about 1/3 less in weight than lead. Bismuth is very hard, and if you cast it at a brick wall hard enough it will crack. However I never had this happen yet. Bismuth has a low melting point, so if you intend to powder paint it, it can be very tricky. I suggest you rough it up, spray with self etching primer and air brush with lacquer.
  12. I don't have any fluoro that heavy, however have you ever tried sevenstrand or surflon stranded stn stl wire with nylon coating?
  13. bassjiggin1955, Thank You for taking the time to teach me how you tie those jigs. At first it is very frustrating, but after a 100 or so (LOL) it gets somewhat easier. I will be adding your lions collar when I get some free time. Thanks Again for all of your help.
  14. I wouldn't call it a 28 or 30 degree. It is a flat eye offset worm hook.
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