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cadman

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cadman last won the day on October 8

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About cadman

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  • Website URL
    http://cadmansjigs.weebly.com/

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  • Location
    Illinois
  • Interests
    Fishing, and making fishing tackle

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  1. Terry, Like mentioned above. Glue or epoxy your weedguards in after they are baked. I have been doing this for over 15 years and have no issues of weedguards falling out. There are many guys here that pour without a weedguard and then glue in afterwords. If you need more help you can PM me .
  2. Apdriver, Very good info, I have the heavier gate shears I use for the harder lead, and the lighter ones for the softer lead. The Xuron brands gate shears are very good. Worth every penny. One final comment that you made and that is never ever use gate shears for anything else but the lead you cut. You will screw them up. Very good advice.
  3. Pete, I have never had a Dubro wire bender, but a guy at our club had one and he said it worked OK. I don't know what that means, as I can't compare it to my Hagens. However I have to say my Hagens is 15 years old and it is as durable as it was when I bought it. If you decide to go with the purchase, let us know how you like it since you will have both. Maybe do a comparison report on your like and dislikes and post it here.
  4. It looks like you've been pouring for awhile, so I won't ask the basic questions. First of all like Smalljaw mentioned, your lead may be too soft. So adding antimony will help harden the lead which in turn will make it a bit harder to pour, which in turn will make the jigs harder and keep the hooks from possibly moving in the lead. I also use the same lead to antimony ratio that Smalljaw uses, sometimes a little harder. I mix my own, so I don't always get 5% antimony, maybe more, which doesn't hurt at all. On another note you mentioned that you have deeper grooves in the sprues when you take them off with this lead. Are you cutting the sprues off or do you break them off. If you are breaking them off, many times you will break off the sprue and it will leave a divot, which you will never file off because of the hole left. This divot is usually the result of using harder lead, and the lead doesn't crack smooth with the head. If your grooves are from using gate shears, and you still have a hard time filing them, then your lead is still too hard. These are just some observations for you to look into. I'm not there, so I can't fully help. Good Luck and post back when you found your solution.
  5. Chris, Number of Tabs is relevant to what you want. I make spinnerbait for guys with 3 tabs,(66 strands). The spinnerbait looks fuller and has a slower fall. The majority of the spinnerbaits I use have 2 to 2-1/2 tabs. That seems to be common around here. Also you can mix your tabs with the round rubber strands or do a straight all rubber skirt. The all rubber skirt really looks alive in the water. Those come in mostly solid colors and come in fine , medium and heavy. The fine strands are really lively in the water. I mix the fine strands with the silicone tabs, it makes a good balance. Check out the file below it has a mix of jigs with solid rubber and silicone, but you can apply that to spinnerbaits as well. The customer wanted rubber on the bottom and silicone on top. However you can intermingle all the strands and it comes out really nice. My suggestion to you is this. Try different number of tabs and or rubber skirt material, and see what you like and what gets bit. You can also keep your strands long or make them shorter . There are a lot of options for you to customize. The best place I found with the largest selection of silicone tabs is fishingskirts.com. If you need more help post up on the forum.Good luck in building your spinnerbaits. pics.pdf
  6. I have the same chart, only mine was from Stamina before it became LPO. Definitely good info. Thanks for the reminder.
  7. I have a Wagner variable heat heat gun and it stands all by itself. This way I can put it anywhere I want, without any clamping.
  8. You can also look under rubber grommets or silicone grommets. You will find them cheaper that way than buying something that has a name attached to it.
  9. I also have a box of hooks from Mustad from years ago, before the China hooks. They were not the 33786, but 32798. They are slightly different than the current production run. I can tell you the the older Mustad hooks were probably better than the current ones. As far as finish goes, plating colors vary from lot to lot. No need to worry about color. Use them and you will be fine.
  10. I have the mold you are referring to. I have tried numerous items, I found that doing it quickly with your finger is the fastest. You can also try wooden coffee stirrers.
  11. Call up Shorty's hook sales. If they don't have them they can get them for you. If you don't know the numbers, send them a pic, they are very helpful.
  12. Check out the Owner 5317 maybe that will work for you. You can always go down one size or two, if the smaller hook has to be. Depends on the mold you are putting it into.
  13. May want to try O'hare Spring in Elk Grove Village, IL. They make a lot of custom fishing wire and have some in stock.
  14. cadman

    spinnerbait parts

    If you buy in bulk (1K) you can get a better price from Worth. They have excellent blades.
  15. I use twisted wire for northern pike and musky. "R" bend for everything else.
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