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cadman last won the day on April 7

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About cadman

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    Fishing, and making fishing tackle

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  1. I have been powder painting for over 10 years. I will say yes my preferred choice would be powder paint. Just like powder painting jigs, blades actually hold up better than jigs, because most of the time you are not dragging the blades. Also if you bake the blades, then they are real durable and if you decide to clear coat them, then you will have the best of both worlds. I have in the past painted blades with lacquer paints. I believe lacquer paint sprayed on over an etching primer is a good choice if you want to go wet paint. Lacquer paint can also be clearcoated for more durability. The only thing with lacquer is the smell and the clean-up. Whichever you chose, they both should do the job, but I prefer powder paint.
  2. Smalljaw is correct you need to sand the blades if you want good adhesion. I have powder painted steel, brass and nickel plated blades front and back and it works fine. I would suggest using a fluid bed as it puts on a thinner coat. Then if you want, you can put on all the colors after that. The only thing I noticed about the powder paint is that it does make the blades heavier, however it does not affect the spin. Make sure you use a good ball bearing swivel. Below are some painted blades I've done over the years. Any and all powder paints will work on blades.
  3. Matt, I am sure "Good Fishing" is referring to Barlows Tackle. So unless I'm wrong it seems ironic that "Good Fishing" and Barlows Tackle are from Richardson, TX which makes me believe that "Good Fishing" is one of the owners or an employee from Barlows Tackle. I know Barlows is not going to match pricing from Skirts Unlimited. I'll stick with Skirts Unlimited and LPO.
  4. Mark, I have tried this a long time ago and it did not work for me. What happened when I mixed black with green pumpkin, I got black speckles on green pumpkin. I would try a small amount first to see your results and write down your ratio. I haven't done this in awhile so maybe my memory is not 100% accurate. Let us know if it works.
  5. Like mentioned there are so many variables, in regards to pots, molds and lead. Smallmouthaholic hit it right on the head, one size doesn't fit all. I don't know how much equipment you have or where you want to take this hobby/business, but start out small, ask questions and learn from there. If you have a Lee IV pot, for a beginner that in my opinion is the best place to start. The pot is pretty full proof so you usually cant't get burned and they perform well for the average person. You should be able to pour 95% of all Do-It molds with this pot. However like mentioned everyday you pour is a new day. Some days your pours will go flawlessly and some days, you want to stop pouring as nothing goes well. For the bad days, try to figure it out and go through all the steps in your mind on how you normally pour. If all fails, I would put everything aside and start pouring the next day. There are days for me in Illinois especially in the summer, where the humidity is high and I have issues pouring. So I do believe that humidity plays a role in pouring. The only other item I would buy is a small 1 oz ladle, which cost about $10. With this, you can dip lead from the top of your Lee pot and pour into your molds. It is not a fast process, however many times it will save the day, as the Lee pot can sometimes be finicky. I would also suggest getting some drop out to spray on your molds if you don't have it. It will make most of your pouring easier with less bad pours. I am not a fan of candle wax, due to it being messy and the soot getting all over my hands and jigs. Anyway be careful and safe and I'm sure you will have more questions here, so just start new threads, so others may learn from your trials and tribulations.
  6. First of all , I pour several different types of buzzbaits using Do-It molds, and yes you can pour them with a Lee IV pot, as I do it all the time. The only mold that has some issues is the Keel Buzz Bait mold, where there is not enough surface lead to cover the hooks. Now getting back to your problems #1.......The mold you have has air vent holes, so that is the good news, any trapped air will escape. #2.......Spray the mold cavities with drop-out. #3........Make sure your mold is very hot. #4.....Like mentioned above, try the things stated, if you are still having issues, crank up your Lee pot all the way up to #9 and let it get up to temp. By doing this, you will get the lead hotter making it more liquid as it flows into the mold #5..... If you adjust your mold on an angle left to right, you will get the lead to pour about a 1/2" from the mold, this way it will not cool as fast as it pours out. #6.... If your wire slips down while you pour, put some tape in the groove where the wire form sits, as you close the mold, the extra tape will keep the wire in place. #7 You can also put a small piece of tape at the bottom of the hook onto the mold. This will keep the hook in place. These are some of the things I do when I pour buzzbaits. I am not a big fan of the Hot Pot. Reason being as good as they are, they are very heavy, they let out too much lead at one time, and if you over pour, it will not fill and it could burn you (but many others have very good success with them). If you want to go a different route, get a 1 oz ladle, that is a better and safer choice. JMO
  7. Painter, That is a great idea. I was just looking into buying more wireforms, but your idea is simple and above all a money saving tip. So for about $5 in new wireforms, I can make 200 "Painter" style wireforms. Thank you very much for sharing.
  8. Correct, You have an e-mail from me.
  9. I am looking for a several of tabs(6) of #505 Midnight Magic skirt color (aka black with blue glimmer). If anyone has some please PM me. Thanks in advance
  10. jsanders159, BTW welcome to Tackle Underground, your one stop source for all tackle making information.
  11. Painter1: First and foremost, are you using "Drop Out" , if not get some. Many of your pouring problems if any will disappear. If you have never used it you will Thank me later. Second, if you have a Lee bottom pour pot, crank it up to #9, and when it is done heating, stick the mold sprue hole up and onto the pour spot nozzle. This will force the mold to fill. Sort of like injecting lead into a mold. This has helped save the day for me many times. Let me know how it goes for you.
  12. I can see this is/could be a potential problem. I think I will put a disclaimer on the 1/16 oz jigs, like you stated " Bait keeper on the 1/16 oz jigs may fall out due to mold design. All jigs leaving our facility have been checked before shipping however constant use may loosen the bait keeper up, causing it to fall out." I hate putting in disclaimers, because people think that you don't know what you're doing, but if I don't let them know or explain it to them, I'll be getting a butt load of complaints and or return for credit. I would rather tell the customer up front and not sell any, than to sell them and get complaints. When I looked at the 1/16 oz head in this mold, I had a feeling it was going to be a problem with the bait keeper in the mold. The mold hardly holds the hook in place let alone a hook and a bait keeper. Ugh!
  13. Just to bring you guys up on my final decision on all of this here, this is what I have decided on. If I were to pour these for myself, I would use the #5313 hooks as recommended by Do-It. Reason being is this. The 5313 hook is a 1x strong hook and it is very light in weight to its size ratio, even if I put a 1/0 on the 1/16 oz head. I did this project solely for one customer. He wanted this head style because it has a keeper, however he wanted a 32746 hook. I will tell you this, that with a 32746 hook, the jig falls differently in the water. It has more of a dead drop to it. The 5313 has more of a slower dancing fall. Naturally you add the trailer to it and it is a whole different story. Now I fit the 570 in there, and although it is lightweight, I am not a fan of bronze hooks, let alone aberdeen hooks for bass fishing. Paranoia I guess. The 570BP would be my choice if I would go that route. All said and done my customer wanted something other than what I would use, but that's why they order custom. Who am I to tell them what they want. Finally one thing I did not like about this mold is using a keeper in the 1/16 oz head. What a P.I.T.A. Is everyone else having problems with the keeper coming loose in the head after pouring? Other than painting the jig to hold the keeper in better, what are some other solutions? Glue, Epoxy? Thanks to all for all the help and input.....................Ted
  14. Walley I am a bit confused on what you are trying to do, so I am going to try to write this the way I understand it and them please correct me if I'm wrong. You stated above, that you want to do a black jig with gold on the bottom. Where does the glow come in? If I were to do a black/gold jig, I would not use a fluid bed. Multi-color jigs always come out better for me doing them by hand. #1....Do the bottom of the jig gold color, and let the gold come up the sides a bit. #2.....Then turn the jig over and put on the black. You always want to put your bottom colors on first. Reason being is that it looks more natural, when the top colors fall naturally over a bottom color. When it gets baked the colors blend in and you don't get any transition lines only fade. That's the way I would do it. Now there are many ways to do this so you will have to find what works for you. In regards to glow powder paints. I have used them for many walleye jigs, and the actual glow paint, which looks like beige color, but glows like light green is a P.I.T.A. to work with. The powder I have is a very heavy pigment, and when you heat up a jig, there always seems to be too much powder that wants to stick onto the jig. If I were to use a fluid bed for glow, I would heat the jig only hot enough, so the glow would stick to the jig but not gloss over. Your jig should look covered, but dull and grainy. This way , you know you won't have too much powder on the jig. Then heat the jig to gloss over. if you don't have good coverage, wait until the jig cools a bit and run through the powder again. Do this until you get good coverage. Glow paint is notorious for not giving good coverage, and you have to put on a lot of paint to actually get the glow to, well glow. This is my experience with glow. I am not saying I'm right, but you can get some tips and try to see what works out for you. Glitters, like smalljaw mentioned, especially the larger flakes are horrible in a fluid bed. Any and all glitters other than Herbie's Magic Dust which is really fine should be sprinkled on by hand to get even coverage in my opinion. I hope I have helped some, If I didn't answer your question please rephrase it so I can answer it better.
  15. Thank for the info guys?