Jump to content


TU Sponsor
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


cadman last won the day on September 7

cadman had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

557 Excellent


About cadman

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    Fishing, and making fishing tackle

Recent Profile Visitors

6,826 profile views
  1. Yes you can put a wire keeper in the mold. All you have to do is hollow out the shank part of where the hook shank is.
  2. I've always Used Devcon 2 Ton (D2T) for any of my customers that want a more durable finish, and I have never had any complaints. However, if you are doing this over all white jig and you want the jig color to pop, then I would suggest E-tex, because D2T has a slight amber tint to it: | D2T= very durable but has a tint E-tex= Whites are bright whit but not as hard as D2T Personally, I don't let the slight tint in D2T to bother me on the jigs I fish.
  3. You can go with a small electro-static powder paint spray booth idea with a recovery system. I don't know what the cost is, but you will have to tape all of the hook ends to keep paint off.
  4. cadman

    Spincast Molds

    Speak to David L Aery. Maybe he can help. Here is his website info. https://www.hooksolutions.com/index.php
  5. I have not seen any powder paints that have a shiny gold color to them. Your best option for that is get them plated. However that is a costly process for small volumes.
  6. You can also use Durham's wood putty. But make sure the mold is completely dry before you pour lead into it.
  7. You are correct, I have that mold as well with weedguard hole. There is an 1/8z one as well but no weedguard hole.
  8. I do not believe they go down to 1/8-1/4 oz. Maybe they do I will have to look that up. I can tell you this, my nephew uses the grass jig and he does really well with that jig and a trailer.
  9. Jig Man, When you bake your jigs with the pins in, do you have any problem with them sticking to the paint and or chipping when you remove them after the paint has cooled? I have always took mine out as soon as I dipped the jig in the powder paint before baking.
  10. First, I'm going to tell you that Smalljaw (my best on line internet friend) go way back. He and I started on TU about the same time (2006). I will also say from knowing him for so long, he is a wealth of knowledge. I have learned a lot from him over the years, and there are still things I learn to this day when I speak with him. Just a wealth of knowledge. Not to take anything away from anyone else that contributes on this forum. Tying with thread is just as good as tying with wire. The reason I asked if you hand tied, because I knew you were concerned about the skirt sliding down. I know a lot of people that just use rubber collars, and after awhile they dry rot from the sun and the skirt falls apart. That will never happen with thread or wire. I also know a lot of guys use their old braid to tie on skirts and that works well just like you do. As far as gluing the trailer onto my jigs, I do not use anything. I mainly use paca chunks or other crawfish type trailers. I do not have a really big problem with my chunks sliding down the hook shank since I have such a small jig profile with usually a 1/0 hook. On the bigger jigs, when I wire tie my skirts, I leave two longer tag ends, and feed them back into the chunk to hold it in place better and it seems to work really well. This process can be done on smaller jigs as well if you want to hold your plastics on better. I have a pic of this somewhere, when I find it I will send it to you.
  11. You can try it, but of all the people that I have talked to, the easiest was to cut it on a band saw with a course teeth. People have tried propane torch, ax, scroll saw, table saw and hand saw. All of these processes were way to slow. Unfortunately the easiest is to take it to a big melting place and have them pour manageable ingots. But I'm sure that that is costly. The problem with anything that cuts fast and generates heat will gum up the blade and get the blade stuck in the lead. I have heard of chainsaw as well but that was apparently dangerous. With that said my only answer is slow and steady. That is why I don't like to get big chunks of FREE lead. How the heck are you going to cut it and if you do how much time are you going to spend cutting and maneuvering it. Cheaper to buy small pieces. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
  12. Wow for someone who is only 18 years old, you sound like a seasoned veteran. Where did you learn all of these tips you use in making your jigs? I am very impressed. Can I make a suggestion. On your rubber gloves, try to use more fitting gloves that are not so loose. Reason being is if you are using a drill in such close proximity to your fingers, the drill bit might grab the rubber glove and twist it with your finger in it possibly causing damage to your finger. Just a suggestion. Also, if your weedguard hole pocket is deep enough, you can put a teflon pin into the hole, dip it in powder paint, remove it and then bake your jig. Finally, I can't tell, but do you wire tie? If not, try it it will keep your skirts in place and they will never fall apart. On another note, I started pouring jigs about 20 years ago, because like many guys I could not get what I wanted. I was and still am a die hard Itsy Bitsy Bug jig fan from Strike King. I used there jigs for about 4 weeks and found that there weedguard and hooks were very subpar. So I happened to be talking to someone at the time (mind you this is pre-internet days)and he showed me a jig (Snootie Jig) mold which was made by Do-It molds. He built me a couple I tried them, really loved the small profile and I bought a mold, pot and hooks and that is how it all started. To this day, the Snootie jig in 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4 oz are always on one of my rods. I am a finesse jig fisherman. I rarely will throw anything heavier than a 1/4 oz. jig. Mind you I rarely fish deeper than 10 F.O.W.
  13. I assume the green color on your jigs is wrapped thread and then epoxy over it to keep it in place and this keeps the skirt from sliding down the jig shank? I don't know if this next idea would work on this jig, but some guys put a groove in the lead shank with a pair of cutters. The groove then acts like a place to tie your skirt onto. This may save you time in tying thread on the hook shank. Also, I noticed you put a weedguard into that jig. Did you drill a hole in the jig head? If so, how difficult was it and what did you use to get the hole in that head. I know it can be a pain sometimes to drill thru lead, and many times almost impossible, as the drill bit grabs the lead and usually rips open the hole. Nice, thinking outside the box.
  14. I just checked on the 8/0 Mustad 32824 hooks and they will fit in the 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 oz cavities of the Ultra Minnow mold.
  • Create New...